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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1332

post #39931 of 40764
1/30/13 at 7:27pm
Nope one sub as far as the 50v or ARC knows. I believe convention wisdom around here is to run PBK first.
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post #39932 of 40764
1/30/13 at 9:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post

Hey guys, looking at possibly getting the AVM 50v. Quick question, I have 2 Paradigm Sub 12 subs and i have PBK. I noticed that the AVM 50v has 2 sub outputs but is stated at 7.1. If i connect each sub to each output, does ARC calibrate each sub individually then as a set? How does it calibrate the subs?

Since the AVM 50v has the full version of ARC, is there any need to run PBK for each sub?

Thanks!

ARC does not calibrate each sub individually. There are plenty of prior posts answering your exact question and the procedure to follow. Basically, ARC will do an average. Use the forum search here and search for ARC and 2 subs and you'll likely see Bob's posts with a definitive answer and best practice on that.
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post #39933 of 40764
1/31/13 at 1:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post

Hey guys, looking at possibly getting the AVM 50v. Quick question, I have 2 Paradigm Sub 12 subs and i have PBK. I noticed that the AVM 50v has 2 sub outputs but is stated at 7.1. If i connect each sub to each output, does ARC calibrate each sub individually then as a set? How does it calibrate the subs?

Since the AVM 50v has the full version of ARC, is there any need to run PBK for each sub?

Thanks!

There are actually FOUR Sub outputs -- 2 RCA and 2 XLR -- and they all output the identical signal, ignoring the standard +6dB hotter for the XLR outputs. I.e., any settings/calibration in the AVM 50v affect all 4 of those outputs identically -- no separate calibration.

There is certainly advantage to doing preliminary setup with 1 Sub at a time powered in aid of finding better positioning for each sub and seeing what you might have to deal with in room problems. But for the FINAL Room Correction solution what's really needed is for ARC to hear all the Subs playing simultaneously and correct their COMBINED output. This is necessary because of the possibility of resonance or cancellation between the Subs.

Anyway, that's how it works. If you want to use PBK to do preliminary correction for your subs individually, there's no problem with that. Just be sure to do the ARC setup LAST.

For the distance setting for the 2 Subs use the average of their distance from ARC mic position #1.

For the preliminary volume adjustment for the 2 subs, the usual Rule of Thumb with 2 subs is to set each to 72dB SPL (one sub powered at a time). When played together that will produce close to a combined 75dB SPL.

For the polarity/phase adjustment for the 2 subs, the Rule of Thumb is, again, to power one at a time and adjust each in turn for best match with the Left Front speaker. This has to be done using controls on each sub, as the controls in the AVM 50v setup menu will alter the 2 sub outputs identically and what you need is separate adjustment. When both are matched to Left Front then they are also likely matched to each other as well.

Note that since ARC hears both subs playing together it is necessary to set the Sub distance, the individual Sub polarity/phase, and the individual Sub volume knob adjustments *BEFORE* doing your ARC Measurement pass.
--Bob
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post #39934 of 40764
1/31/13 at 2:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerbob View Post

I am still having a problem that I can’t seem to resolve between my Anthem 50v and my Oppo 93.

I am using firmware 309f on the 50v and the Oppo has the latest firmware. When I try to watch a blu-ray that has DTS HD Master Audio as the audio source and I am using HDMI1 out from the Oppo connected to HDMI1 in on the Anthem I have the following problem. The previews and any pre movie spots that are using Dolby Digital all play correctly. When I go into setup for the feature and I select DTS HD Master Audio I have picture but no sound. When I check the status of the 50v it tells me that it is receiving “no signal” or “no digital signal”, but most times it shows that the signal is “Anlg-DSP”. If I check my DVD1 Source Setup (the input that I am using) in the 50v, my audio in selection is “Dig HDMI”.
Now the kicker, if I connect the output to HDMI2 on the Oppo and change nothing else, everything plays correctly, including the DTS HD Master Audio. Even though I am still telling the Oppo that my primary HDMI output is HDMI1.

I have 2 other Blu-ray players (a Sony 790 and a older LG 390) and they both play the discs correctly.

I suppose this is not a huge problem as I am using “Source Direct” to output video from the Oppo and letting the 50v do the processing. So I really don’t need to use HDMI1 out from the Oppo to utilize the Marvell QDEO video processor that is only available from the Oppo’s HDMI1 output.

But my question is still why?

In Setup > Source Setup for the Source definition you are using with the OPPO 93, confirm that Auto Dig is set to NO. Auto Dig will switch the Source to using ANALOG audio input if it thinks the digital audio input has gone away. The output handshake on HDMI 1 from the 93 is a multi-stage handshake due to the presence of the QDEO video processor in that signal path. Evidently the AVM 50v is detecting the digital audio going away and is not spotting it coming back so it switches you to Analog audio input and does not recover.

HDMI 2 output does not go through that video processor so its handshake is different (simpler).

If that doesn't cure it, then confirm that you do not have BOTH HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 connected at the same time from the OPPO 93. With both connected, the audio available on HDMI 1 output is limited.

Also try HDMI Audio LPCM output from the OPPO 93 and see if that works for you.

Essentially this is a form of HDMI handshake failure, complicated by the multi-stage handshake. As with *ALL* cases of HDMI handshake failure, the thing you should suspect first is that you have an HDMI cabling quality problem.

Try this. Temporarily set the OPPO 93 to 1080i output with Deep Color OFF. If 1080i works (no audio problem) but 1080p still fails, then that's pretty strong evidence that something is marginal in your HDMI cabling. Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so the problem could be in the cable from the AVM 50v to your display rather than in the cable from the OPPO to the AVM 50v.

Consider the HDMI signal path from end to end. If you have any adapters, wall plates, daisy-chained cables, HDMI switches or other HDMI processing gizmos anywhere in that signal path, then that alone could be the cause of your problem.
--Bob
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post #39935 of 40764
1/31/13 at 2:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post

Bob, I think you said the latter bug was introduced in 3.09f and did not exist in 3.09c?

If that's the case, I would rather not have specified bug than "unspecified fixes" smile.gif

I think it likely the "known issue" is in 3.09c as well. I'm the one who found this bug, but I didn't check it until I was already on 3.09f -- TrueHD 2.0 tracks are pretty rare these days.
--Bob
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post #39936 of 40764
1/31/13 at 2:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerbob View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dvcdude View Post

I run 7.1 with a 50v and occassionally ran into this problem. I upgraded to 3.09f and no problems since.

Okay, I have corrected some of the problem I had bitstreaming DTS HD Master Audio 5.1 from my Oppo 93 to my 50V and 7.1 coming out. Another classic case of “OPERATOR ERROR”.

I installed firmware 309f but I still had the problem. After a couple of hours of changing cables, reviewing setting etc., I noticed that over the last 2 years for some reason I had set the DVD1 mode presets to “None”. Apparently these settings had no adverse effects when I was running firmware 2.10 and 3.09 but became a problem when I installed 309c or 309f. I changed those presets to “Last Used” and problem solved. DTS HD Master Audio now plays properly if I use HDMI2 out of the Oppo 93. I will post the problem I am having with HDMI1 out of the Oppo if I can’t figure it out today.

I am not sure if I understand how these settings adversely affected the playback, especially since everything was fine before I first installed 309c but right now almost everything is working properly.

Thanks to all who offered suggestions.

Try changing the setting BACK to NONE and see if the problem returns. The problem could simply have been a small case of data corruption in the memorized settings, exposed by the firmware update.
--Bob
Edited by Bob Pariseau - 1/31/13 at 2:12am
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post #39937 of 40764
1/31/13 at 6:27am
Anybody using the Sony BDP S790 with the 4k upsampling? Do you have to have a 4k display and preamp or can you get ANY benefit from using one now with a native 10800p screen and projector via the D2v?

Also, why is Anthem still showing V2.10 as the latest firmware for the D2v? What is the latest firmware for the D2v. I think I'm running 3.09 on mine which has been upgraded to the 3D model. I guess the D2v will never see a 4k upgrade right? Perhaps, that will be only for the D3 assuming that's the next model.

Thanks ALL.
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post #39938 of 40764
1/31/13 at 6:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by MStanic View Post

Anybody using the Sony BDP S790 with the 4k upsampling? Do you have to have a 4k display and preamp or can you get ANY benefit from using one now with a native 10800p screen and projector via the D2v?

Also, why is Anthem still showing V2.10 as the latest firmware for the D2v? What is the latest firmware for the D2v. I think I'm running 3.09 on mine which has been upgraded to the 3D model. I guess the D2v will never see a 4k upgrade right? Perhaps, that will be only for the D3 assuming that's the next model.

Thanks ALL.

I LOVE the S790.

Upscaling is even better than Anthem - D2 - I run the S790 direct to the PJ on a 13ft Screen.

I use the 2nd HDMI Port for hi-def Audio to the D2.

YES - It will NOT Scale to 4K without a 4K display - but even at 2K it is the BEST I HAVE SEEN.
I play many LOW-DEF DVDs and it is GREAT.
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post #39939 of 40764
1/31/13 at 8:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post

It looks like Anthem partially addressed one of my complaints in some recent firmware, that the LAST USED setting was not working across power cycles in older firmware. I'm sorry but I don't know if this has been fixed fully. I would need to test it again, but lately I have noticed strange behavior with it remembering modes I never selected and the MODE status button not even showing the correct mode.

I tested the LAST USED mode preset again with a standard DD5.1 source and it is not working at all now (3.09c). It doesn't even recall the mode across Input selections - the mode keeps reverting to NONE after I select PLIIx. This is worse than before when I reported it was not recalling the mode across power cycles.

In addition when trying to change the mode from NONE the first time you press the button to scroll to the next mode it stays in NONE after a brief delay and you have to press the button again.
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post #39940 of 40764
1/31/13 at 9:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

There are actually FOUR Sub outputs -- 2 RCA and 2 XLR -- and they all output the identical signal, ignoring the standard +6dB hotter for the XLR outputs. I.e., any settings/calibration in the AVM 50v affect all 4 of those outputs identically -- no separate calibration.

There is certainly advantage to doing preliminary setup with 1 Sub at a time powered in aid of finding better positioning for each sub and seeing what you might have to deal with in room problems. But for the FINAL Room Correction solution what's really needed is for ARC to hear all the Subs playing simultaneously and correct their COMBINED output. This is necessary because of the possibility of resonance or cancellation between the Subs.

Anyway, that's how it works. If you want to use PBK to do preliminary correction for your subs individually, there's no problem with that. Just be sure to do the ARC setup LAST.

For the distance setting for the 2 Subs use the average of their distance from ARC mic position #1.

For the preliminary volume adjustment for the 2 subs, the usual Rule of Thumb with 2 subs is to set each to 72dB SPL (one sub powered at a time). When played together that will produce close to a combined 75dB SPL.

For the polarity/phase adjustment for the 2 subs, the Rule of Thumb is, again, to power one at a time and adjust each in turn for best match with the Left Front speaker. This has to be done using controls on each sub, as the controls in the AVM 50v setup menu will alter the 2 sub outputs identically and what you need is separate adjustment. When both are matched to Left Front then they are also likely matched to each other as well.

Note that since ARC hears both subs playing together it is necessary to set the Sub distance, the individual Sub polarity/phase, and the individual Sub volume knob adjustments *BEFORE* doing your ARC Measurement pass.
--Bob

Ok, so I understand, I would do the polarity/phase, average distance and volume adjustment for each sub, then do PBK, then do ARC?

Is there an easy way to setup polarity/phase for the subs? In case it matters, most likely each sub will be beside each front speaker.

Thanks!
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post #39941 of 40764
1/31/13 at 1:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post

Ok, so I understand, I would do the polarity/phase, average distance and volume adjustment for each sub, then do PBK, then do ARC?

Is there an easy way to setup polarity/phase for the subs? In case it matters, most likely each sub will be beside each front speaker.

Thanks!

After your first PBK run check the graphs for any major dips or peaks in the frequency area of about 20-160 Hz.
If there is, you made need to move the subs and run Quick Measure with PBK to flatten the peaks and dips before actually uploading PBK to the subs
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post #39942 of 40764
1/31/13 at 9:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrwatson View Post

Could you have a look at my curves smile.gif and make any suggestions
Thanks Neale
Doc1.doc 402k .doc file

Any comments would be appreciated very new at this
Thanks Neale
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post #39943 of 40764
2/1/13 at 3:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrwatson View Post

Any comments would be appreciated very new at this
Thanks Neale

Neale

Welcome to the Anthem users forum page
You posted the graphs without the Calculated curve which would be a Green line.
And please post your Targets.
If possible before you do, you might want to move your Rt and Lt front speakers to eliminate the rise in the lower frequencies.
A little change in which direction they are pointing or moving away from a wall or corner. Only an inch or two maybe enough.
You can use the Quick Measure feature to experiment
Check that you have the sub woofer setup correctly as it shows a rapid drop off below 60Hz
Try posting your graphs by saving them as a jpg instead of a doc.
You can use the Paint program in Windows. Then download them to the forum from the image icon in the Reply Toolbar on the forum page
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post #39944 of 40764
2/1/13 at 7:58am
I've been looking at the power supply in the D2v. I'm thinking of upgrading some of the regulator to a Belleson superpower regulator. There are quite a few regulator chips in a 220 package. LM1084, LD29300v50, LM2990, and 75901. Does anyone know what one feeds the AK 4395 DACs on the daughter board by chance?
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post #39945 of 40764
2/1/13 at 8:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by steven2583 View Post

I've been looking at the power supply in the D2v. I'm thinking of upgrading some of the regulator to a Belleson superpower regulator. There are quite a few regulator chips in a 220 package. LM1084, LD29300v50, LM2990, and 75901. Does anyone know what one feeds the AK 4395 DACs on the daughter board by chance?

DO NOT CHANGE ANYTHING IS MY TWO CENT RECOMMENDATION
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post #39946 of 40764
2/1/13 at 8:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

DO NOT CHANGE ANYTHING IS MY TWO CENT RECOMMENDATION

What would your recommendation be for 4 cents ?

Daniel.
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post #39947 of 40764
2/1/13 at 9:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

In Setup > Source Setup for the Source definition you are using with the OPPO 93, confirm that Auto Dig is set to NO. Auto Dig will switch the Source to using ANALOG audio input if it thinks the digital audio input has gone away. The output handshake on HDMI 1 from the 93 is a multi-stage handshake due to the presence of the QDEO video processor in that signal path. Evidently the AVM 50v is detecting the digital audio going away and is not spotting it coming back so it switches you to Analog audio input and does not recover.

HDMI 2 output does not go through that video processor so its handshake is different (simpler).

If that doesn't cure it, then confirm that you do not have BOTH HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 connected at the same time from the OPPO 93. With both connected, the audio available on HDMI 1 output is limited.

Also try HDMI Audio LPCM output from the OPPO 93 and see if that works for you.

Essentially this is a form of HDMI handshake failure, complicated by the multi-stage handshake. As with *ALL* cases of HDMI handshake failure, the thing you should suspect first is that you have an HDMI cabling quality problem.

Try this. Temporarily set the OPPO 93 to 1080i output with Deep Color OFF. If 1080i works (no audio problem) but 1080p still fails, then that's pretty strong evidence that something is marginal in your HDMI cabling. Keep in mind that HDMI is an end to end protocol, so the problem could be in the cable from the AVM 50v to your display rather than in the cable from the OPPO to the AVM 50v.

Consider the HDMI signal path from end to end. If you have any adapters, wall plates, daisy-chained cables, HDMI switches or other HDMI processing gizmos anywhere in that signal path, then that alone could be the cause of your problem.

--Bob

I always had Auto Dig set to NO in the past, but I had turned it ON a couple of days ago while trying to find the problem. Turned it back to OFF and it did not make a difference. Still no sound when using DTS HD Master Audio.

I am only using one HDMI out at a time

Okay, that works.

Yes, 1080i works with Deep Color OFF. Then I started to restore my original settings one at a time to see when the problem returned. Turned on BITSTREAM ok, turned on SOURCE DIRECT ok, turned on Deep Color 30 BITS DITHERED and no sound. YOU ARE THE MAN!!!

I doubt if the cable from the OPPO to the 50v is bad as I had a couple of other HDMI cables here that I tried in place of that one with the same results. But the cable out of the 50v to my Kuro display is probably 4 or 5 years old and could be the problem. I don’t have another HDMI cable here long enough to replace that one, so I ordered a new one.

Thanks to you and everyone else who tried to help. I don’t know what we did before we had resources like all of you to turn to.
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post #39948 of 40764
2/1/13 at 9:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Try changing the setting BACK to NONE and see if the problem returns. The problem could simply have been a small case of data corruption in the memorized settings, exposed by the firmware update.
--Bob

Changed the setting back to NONE and again I am receiving 7.1 channels when selecting DTS HD Master Audio 5.1. Changed the settings back to LAST USED and then the 50v sends the proper output 5.1.
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post #39949 of 40764
2/1/13 at 10:26am
Unless you heard a modified component before your two or four cents needs to be discounted. I have quite a few machines that have been modified. I have a Jolida 302b tube amp. Attenuator, and a few other changes. It's sounds much better then the stock. I actually had my D2v modified already. The right and left channel op amps were change to BB OPA627 and the Attenuator chips on right/left channel changed. The D2v was improved with a more detailed sound and is a lot clearer. Recently I modified my Schiit BiFrost by changing the regulator to the DAC chip to a Belleson superpower regulator. I was amazed the difference it made. First time I actually heard a MP3 sound so good. Usually taking a lossless file and changing t o an MP3 the first thing you lose is the air the 3 dimensional affect. Soundstage got wider and deeper. Music is more dynamic and flows really really. It became very involving. I really enjoy listening to my 2nd system now. I want the D2v to be as involving. I compared it to my D2v though the same source, amp, and speaker. The Anthem won out by a hair mostly because of ARC but it isn't quite involving. I have a mid range drop out in my room that ARC fixes and bass is tighter. I figured I make the same change to my D2v since they use the same family of DAC chips (D2v AK4395 , bifrost AK4396) and I will expect the same type of impovement but probably not as much because D2v has other better electronics.
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post #39950 of 40764
2/1/13 at 12:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerbob View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Try changing the setting BACK to NONE and see if the problem returns. The problem could simply have been a small case of data corruption in the memorized settings, exposed by the firmware update.
--Bob

Changed the setting back to NONE and again I am receiving 7.1 channels when selecting DTS HD Master Audio 5.1. Changed the settings back to LAST USED and then the 50v sends the proper output 5.1.
Certainly sounds like a bug. Please write up what you've discovered and email it to Anthem Tech Support to see if they can reproduce it at their end.
--Bob
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post #39951 of 40764
2/1/13 at 1:08pm
Solving the Zone2 and Zone3 analog and MAIN --> COPY limitation with the Anthem 50v and D2v

Greetings all, I'd previously posted about figuring out a way to get Zone2 and Zone3 audio with sources that are now becoming pure digital with no analog outputs. What I've been trying to accomplish is getting an AppleTV gen2 or gen3 to work in other zones without copying from the Main. The obvious assumption is that the Main zone is playing another source, therefore the Anthem's DACs cannot be used for Zone2 or Zone3 and therefore you can only play an analog source.

If you use a traditional DAC, then you will get your analog (in stereo) but lose your ability to decode the digital signal in the Anthem and also lose multichannel signals. What's needed is a DAC that has digital passthrough and also has analog outs. I've been looking for an economic solution and I've found a ton of good options in case anyone else is looking for the same thing.

There's a complete rundown of DACs with digital passthrough for under $500 on the Poor Audiophile blog: http://pooraudiophile.com/2013/02/five-dacs-with-digital-passthrough-for.html

It's nice to see a few that have HDMI passthrough plus analog audio out. That's a perfect solution for feeding the main and the other zones.

Now my question: how much of a pain in the neck with HDMI handshaking does it potentially become to insert a solution like this? Will it potentially lead to HDMI handshaking issues because of too many hops (source --> DAC --> Anthem --> display) or will it work just fine if you use shorter HDMI cables?

Thoughts on this?

Thanks,
Theo
Edited by Thxtheater - 2/1/13 at 5:16pm
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post #39952 of 40764
2/1/13 at 1:38pm
^ Short is not good for HDMI cables. It can even be worse than too long.

6 feet (2 meters) is about optimal length for an HDMI cable between any two devices. This has to do with the the way the signal equalization is implemented in the HDMI chips to try to make longer cables work better.
--Bob
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post #39953 of 40764
2/1/13 at 5:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ Short is not good for HDMI cables. It can even be worse than too long.

6 feet (2 meters) is about optimal length for an HDMI cable between any two devices. This has to do with the the way the signal equalization is implemented in the HDMI chips to try to make longer cables work better.
--Bob

Ok, thanks for validating that.

And Bob, that's interesting--I had consistently heard that 6-foot was the length to use but didn't know that it had anything to do with the signal equalization.
I checked out the Octava HDMI switch and it references the "eye" here: http://www.octavainc.com/Clear%20Eye%20difference.htm

I'm assuming this is what you are talking about and the alteration of that "eye" at different lengths?
Edited by Thxtheater - 2/1/13 at 5:54pm
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post #39954 of 40764
2/1/13 at 6:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by steven2583 View Post

op amps were change to BB OPA627

Be careful with that, there is such a thing as too much...
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post #39955 of 40764
2/1/13 at 6:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerbob View Post

Changed the setting back to NONE and again I am receiving 7.1 channels when selecting DTS HD Master Audio 5.1. Changed the settings back to LAST USED and then the 50v sends the proper output 5.1.

If your 50v is like mine there are now two NONE modes - the software gets into bad state where who knows what is going on, as explained in my last post: http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22905163

Are you able to select NONE again after the first NONE?
Edited by AVfile - 2/2/13 at 7:26am
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post #39956 of 40764
2/2/13 at 10:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

Neale

Welcome to the Anthem users forum page
You posted the graphs without the Calculated curve which would be a Green line.
And please post your Targets.
If possible before you do, you might want to move your Rt and Lt front speakers to eliminate the rise in the lower frequencies.
A little change in which direction they are pointing or moving away from a wall or corner. Only an inch or two maybe enough.
You can use the Quick Measure feature to experiment
Check that you have the sub woofer setup correctly as it shows a rapid drop off below 60Hz
Try posting your graphs by saving them as a jpg instead of a doc.
You can use the Paint program in Windows. Then download them to the forum from the image icon in the Reply Toolbar on the forum page

Thanks
Here is my attempt

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post #39957 of 40764
2/2/13 at 10:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrwatson View Post

Thanks
Here is my attempt


Just a comment on the obvious. Every single time I see an ARC graph, I'm just amazed at where we've come looking at both before and after and what room correction is able to do--especially at the lower frequencies. wow.
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post #39958 of 40764
2/2/13 at 12:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post

If your 50v is like mine there are now two NONE modes - the software gets into bad state where who knows what is going on, as explained in my last post: http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/39930#post_22905163

Are you able to select NONE again after the first NONE?

Hey AVfile, I’m not sure I understand what you are asking here but no I cannot select NONE again after the first NONE. I’m saying that (for instance) in the DVD1 MODE PRESETS I can set all of the presets to NONE except 2.0 and 2Sur. When I do that and try to play a blu-ray with DTS HD Master Audio 5.1, I receive 7.1 output. If I set the DVD1 MODE PRESETS to LAST USED the DTS HD Master Audio plays properly
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post #39959 of 40764
2/3/13 at 11:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrwatson View Post

Thanks
Here is my attempt


We need your targets posted as well
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post #39960 of 40764
2/3/13 at 11:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerbob View Post

Hey AVfile, I’m not sure I understand what you are asking here but no I cannot select NONE again after the first NONE. I’m saying that (for instance) in the DVD1 MODE PRESETS I can set all of the presets to NONE except 2.0 and 2Sur. When I do that and try to play a blu-ray with DTS HD Master Audio 5.1, I receive 7.1 output. If I set the DVD1 MODE PRESETS to LAST USED the DTS HD Master Audio plays properly

With the mode preset set to LAST USED it always goes to 5.1 or whatever the native source format is (as seen on the display) after switching inputs or going to Standby. Pressing the MODE button at this time results in NONE being displayed. Pressing the up/down button should go to the next mode in the list but instead it goes to NONE again. I am wondering if both these "modes" are really NONE or one of them is just shown that way on the display - while something else is going on internally.
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