Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1333

Here goes again Thanks for your time

You still need to calculate (green line) and include the Target screen.

You need to run ARC and run calculate to get the Green calculated line displayed.
Then select target and copy that screen to the Paint program. Use the CTRL and PRTSC keyboard buttons to paste into Paint.

I did warn you I was new

Mr. Watson,

What kind of speakers are these?

I have the tag mclaren calliopes

The fronts are the calliopes with bass unites the rear is calliope without and the central is the calliope central and the side speakers are Tdl which are mounted in the wall

There are several issues worth checking here.

Most worrisome to me is the precipitous drop off in treble for Left Front from 5KHz to 7KHz. That suggests to me you may have blown the tweeter in that speaker. Another possibility is that custom speaker grill cloth or mounting hardware is blocking the output from the tweeter. Compare to what's going on up there in Right Front.

To test this, play some stereo content (e.g., a CD) with treble components such as cymbals, and set MONO ALL audio Surround mode so the same audio goes to all speakers. Then put your ear up close to the tweeter in Left Front and Right Front to see if the one on Left Front is firing.

That specific concern aside, double check the pointing for Left Front, Right Front, Left Surround and Side Surround. If they are not mounted at seated ear height pay particular attention to their vertical pointing. You may be losing some treble due to directionality issues. The Surrounds can point directly at ARC Mic position #1. The Fronts should NOT point directly at it. The usual Rule of Thumb is to swing the Fronts ("toe in") only about 1/3 of the angle that would take them from pointing to the back wall towards pointing to ARC Mic position #1.

Next you've got a particularly nasty dip around 150Hz for Left Rear. More than ARC can correct -- thus the residual error between the green Calculated curve and the black-dashed Target curve around there. If you have any flexibility to reposition Left Rear, then spending some quality time with the Quick Measure tool (ARC application > Tools menu) will let you see how adjusting that speakers position alters the way its bass output couples to the room. If there are any bass response adjustments on that speaker, check that they aren't set inappropriately. If it is an in-wall speaker, you may need some solid backing material (kind of like a sand-bag) in the wall behind it for proper bass output -- check the installation manual for that model of speaker.

Finally, your Subwoofer is "typical" of subs sold for home theater in that it is only producing good output down to around 30Hz. This is not bad, but it does mean you are losing a whole octave of bass down below that -- the bass you more "feel" than "hear". If you expected your Sub to be good down to 20 or even 15Hz then there may be some response setting on it that needs adjustment. Spending time with the Quick Measure tool can help here as well, as the uncorrected Sub output will vary dramatically according to where it is placed with regard to side walls and corners. The high end output of the Sub is also rolling off a bit too soon. Double-check that any internal Crossover in the Sub itself has either been disabled or that you've cranked it's frequency up as high as possible to get it out of the way as best as possible. ARC does the Crossover processing, so you don't want a control in the Sub artificially limiting its high bass output.
--Bob

That is not a problem. We all started as newbies

Bob, can you explain why not? I always thought speaker toe-in was room and speaker dependent. Is there a good ARC reason for not toeing in speakers to point directly at mic position #1?

Thanks,

Mike B.

Yes I too would like to know the answer to this as well please. I didn't realize that the surrounds (5.1 setup myself) need to be turned so there pointing directing at the Mic in position 1. I have my fronts toe'd in to the main listening position but not the surrounds as there slightly toe'd in but not pointing directly at the main seating position, as I have 3 seats along the back of the room and thought that having them turned that radically would draw attention to them from the 2 side seats left and right.

^ It's just a Rule of Thumb -- empirical guidance that has worked well for others. Try it and see if you, too, like it.
--Bob

OK, I was worried there might be some technical ARC related reason for it. I have tried different "toe-in" angles before, but it may be time to mess with things again. It seems like every year around this time I get a strong desire to re-calibrate my system, and run ARC again.

Thanks Bob.

What about PCM or DTS 2.0 tracks? I currently get nothing (i.e. blank characters) displayed in the status area on the front panel. When you press MODE it says "Mode for 2-Channel Input: No Signal" (even though there is audio). Tested with CD Audio and JAWS blu-ray.

Typically, you want your speakers toed-in so that the tweaters point to a spot a couple inches behind your listening position.

I just toed my S8s out a bit from where I had them and noticed a definitive difference, just a fraction in, maybe one to one and a half feet to the sides of my seat. On another note, I have my D2v back from my 3D upgrade and a new video board was installed, 90% of my HDMI problems are gone and I am now very happy with my unit..........after three years.

Does your HDMI problems include "Muting" mid-play of Cd's etc. It mutes for me when the TV if OFF. Let me know and I might get the upgrade done, if it fixes it. I have tried lot of other things in the past , and cannot get it to work without muting when TV is OFF. Thanks.

I am having mine upgraded tomorrow and have been told that this will sort out my problems with HDMI shaking

Sorry, I did not have said problems, I cannot use HDMI audio for my Xbox as there is a loud, constant, clicking sound when it is selected but using dig optical works. The only other problem is I still cannot have my PC hooked up HDMI as my picture will disappear for several minutes and come back, sometimes with green static on half the screen. But on a better note, I can now switch between all inputs without getting the purple haze, that happened every time on certain inputs, and I can go into and out of the set up screen without getting the purple haze every time, and I have yet to tune to an input and get picture but no sound or visa versa.

John

Thanks Bob
I have played around and changed the front left speaker
I have put the sub a velondyne back to factory reset without it using its own correction
and toed the main speakers out slightly the surround speaker is more of a problem as it is within the wall and angle downwards and completely fixed
here is my next attempt
arcnew1.jpg 557k .jpg file
arcnew2.jpg 549k .jpg file

Left Front looks a lot better.

For the sub, it still looks like it has its internal crossover active. If this is a Velodyne DD series sub you need to do more than just turn off its built-in EQ. You need to DISABLE its internal crossover.

I forget exactly what you do to do this (check the manual) but as I recall it is something like going to the page showing the settings, highlighting the entry in the top left of that table for the crossover frequency, and then hitting Reset on the remote. What you should see is that the crossover related settings change to N/A.

I don't know if your Velodyne is well sized for your room, but the Velodyne DD series subs should be capable of going lower than the 30Hz yours is showing. First make sure the high pass filter that attenuates the lowest frequency output of the Velodyne isn't set artificially high in frequency. Failing that, you may need to spend some quality time using ARC's Quick Measure tool to find a better location for your sub.
--Bob

Hi Everyone,
New to this thread and Anthem products.

I recently bought an Anthem AVM50v and are using it with my MCA Amps, Paradigm Speakers (i.e. Studio 100 front speakers, CC690 Centre and Studio 10 Surrounds) and Cabasse Santorin 25 Sub in my 5.1 system.

I ran ARC and got the following graphs.




I would appreciate any input with regards to the interpretation of the ARC Graphs.

Thank you.

Could you also post your Targets page.from ARC
Be sure you have turned the sub Crossover (Crossover Frequency) knob to its highest frequency.
Looks like you also will need to use Quick Measure to find a more favorable location for your sub
You have very little sub output below 50 Hz or above 100 Hz
The other speakers look very good.

 

Audiolic:

 

Your speaker responses all look good with the exception of the subwoofer. Its low frequency response falls off too soon. Move it into a corner to get some gain in the low end and re-measure.

 

- David

Audiolic,
I agree with the posts above. You are in good shape except for your Subwoofer. You should check the settings on your Sub to make sure you don't have a Crossover active inside it (rolling off the high bass frequency end), and you should spend some time with the Quick Measure tool in the ARC app to see if you can find a better location for the Sub, but it may simply come down to your Sub not being very capable and/or too small for your room. I.e., time to get a better Sub. Right now your Sub is only good down to about 50Hz.

We've seen some results like this from "servo" style Subwoofers when the are placed in a corner. The solution for those was to move them away from the corner, such as mid-way up a side wall -- still adjacent to the wall. Again, the Quick Measure tool will give you the fastest way to see what different locations are producing for raw (uncorrected) output from your Sub.

Your results are also a good candidate for raising the frequency limit for how far up ARC applies correction. This is the Max EQ Frequency setting in the ARC Targets window. The default value is 5KHz, and you could probably raise that to 10 or even 15KHz. Trust your ears as to whether the default or higher value produces a better sounding ARC solution.

Next time you post, also capture and post your ARC Targets window, as it includes useful information.
--Bob

It would be especially good to see your Targets posted

Your sub has a frequency Crossover knob on the rear. Ensure it is turned up to the max frequency which the manufacturer states is 180 Hz.
Also make sure you are using the sub 1 output of the Anthem to the sub and using the low level sub inputs not the high level inputs
I also would try using the sub's phase control to see if putting the sub out of phase increases the sub response
As everyone has recomended you should try moving the sub and using the ARC Quick Measure after checking the settings and input connections to get a broader sub response

I am considering adding another sub to my system.

 

This is what I have; all Paradigm:

 

Fronts: S8's

Surrounds: S2's

Center: C-5

Sub: Sub 25.

 

Should I add another Sub 25 or a Sub 2.

 

(I just received my C5 and SVS AS-EQ1. I will post results soon).

 

Thanks.

You never tweaked your current set up.
I would run your SVS and ARC before you make any decisions.

Yes you are right, let me do that, post results and then we will see.

 

Thanks.