Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1339

 

Awesome story indeed!

No worries. The electrical signal on the cable travels at the speed of light, which means a 25 foot difference means nothing as far as signal timing. For example, it is totally irrelevant when setting your speaker distances or adjusting Subwoofer Phase.

Theoretically the 25 foot difference *MIGHT* allow the cables to diverge in other ways the signal is modified as it travels along the cable, but the odds of that divergence being enough that you can hear the difference is vanishingly small. There is likely more manufacturing difference in your Left and Right speakers than anything that 25 foot cable disparity could produce.
--Bob

... or in your left & right ears, and heaven forbid you move your head 1 inch to either side!

There is also ARC which corrects each speaker individually.

However 125 ft of 10 or 12-guage speaker wire is a lot of copper!

http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm#wiretable

Hey everyone,

I've been doing a lot of searching and reading through some of the thousands of pages of this epic thread. I think I have this right but want to confirm.... I'm looking at picking up a used Anthem piece, and my budget is pretty limited I definitely can't afford the AVM 50v or D2v, even used. I don't need video processing in my pre/pro (although it can never hurt), I am mainly interested in ARC and PCM 5.1 over HDMI. The MRX receivers are attractive, but I would like the balanced in/out and analog bypass that the AVM and D2 lines offer. So I'm looking at an AVM 40, AVM 50, or D2, and just want to make sure I have this right. Are the following statements true?

-AVM 40 and AVM 50 can support ARC, but require a DSP upgrade to do so. If I buy one without ARC, this upgrade is no longer available.

-D2 can support ARC without a DSP upgrade, but I still require a microphone kit (assuming the used piece doesn't come with one. This kit is still available from Anthem.

Do I have this right?

Thanks!

Matt

Everyone,


I appreciate all of the feedback. I have purchased Marshal Soundrunner 10 gauge cable (Mogami) , and I am very comfortable with its specs. So many “audiophile” manufacturers state they have to be the same distance. However the folks who wired recording studios for a living felt this was a “stretch”

Wanted to vet it out before I run wires and close up walls

Gerard

Yes. So you can evaluate pricing, the original retail price of the ARC kit for the D2 (i.e., before they started bundling it with every D2 and D2v) was $400. For that you got the specially calibrated mic, mic stand, cabling and Windows PC software used during ARC setup. The kit for the AVM processors (again, before they started bundling it) was $800. The price difference was for the replacement DSP board needed for those processors.
--Bob

Thanks Bob! Your outstanding contributions to this thread and community are greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Matt

 

OK, maybe i missed something but I thought you said to use the special L/R outputs of the stereo board and not the FL/FR from the MCH outputs in the prior post?

I realize this post is from a ways back, but has anyone found a solution to the Xbox HDMI static/clicking? Tonight I simply cannot fix it, no matter what I do (scratch that, powering the 50V off/on solved it tonight). I sort of "dealt" with the issue since ever since the 3D upgrade my system has been in a state of flux, and the issue was intermittent. But my equipment has finally stabilized and now the issue is basically consistent every time I turn the 360 on.

So what do I have, well, it's an AVM50V 3D, with the 3.09 software the dealer installed when they put the new 3D board in.
An Xbox 360, not a Slim, one of the 250GB models
Lumagen RadianceXE 3D
Darbee Darblet
Planar 8150
SageTV HD300
Pioneer BDP-51FD
All Blue Jeans Cable 7' or greater (Tartan for the short ones, Series FE to the projector), I replaced some shorter ones hoping it would help.
Everything feeds into the Radiance, then HDMI1 goes to the AVM50V, and HDMI 2 to the Planar via the Darbee. So I do all the switching in the Radiance.

Actually this configuration, other than the Xbox is probably a bit more stable/reliable than before I added the Radiance (HD300 had handshake issues: wrong colorspace/etc), but the Xbox has definitely gotten worse.

So, anyone have any suggestions?

What you missed is that the OPPO BDP-105 lets you do precisely that. The Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs can be configured EITHER to operate independently OR to act in lieu of the normal LF/RF outputs of the multi-channel Analog set.
--Bob

I had to run optical for my Xbox because of this, after upgrading to 3D my problem was fixed and I went back to HDMI

I have the 50v without the 3D upgrade. The only thing that worked for me is setting the Xbox to output 2 channel. Unfortunately it leaves your backside exposed in multiplayer games. Now I log in with my volume down low and go directly to settings and change the resolution. It doesn't matter what one you pick, so I alternate between 1080i and 1080p. Whatever one I chose the last time I used my Xbox, the next time I turn it on, I choose the other resolution. It's faster than turning off and turning on various pieces of equipment. I've tried all different combinations of settings in the 50v and Xbox, also different sequences of powering on equipment, nothing has worked other than setting the Xbox to stereo.

Mine went the other way, it was fine until I got the 3D upgrade, and now it doesn't work. Though since the Xbox doesn't really "support" HDMI audio, maybe I should just go back to Component+S/PDIF.

I apologize, I still have the problem. Many other things were fixed after my 3D upgrade but not this. I am still running optical.

I'm having a strange issue with my AVM50 ARC.

I recently set up a new turntable, and I've discovered that my audio image seems to be shifted to the right. At first I thought it was my turntable, but by reversing leads between components, it is definitely the Anthem - bottom line, if I switch the L/R leads from my phono stage at the back of the Anthem, the image remains shifted to the right.

It doesn't seem to be limited to analog sources (my turntable is the only one) - I have the issue with digital sources as well. It exists with the turntable when using either Analog-Direct or Analog-DSP. And last night I experimented with my Roku (HDMI) and two-channel source material (ripped from CD), and I have the same problem.

I eliminated my power amp and speakers as the problem, because if I plug headphones into the jack on the front of the Anthem, it's easily noticeable.

The balance needs to be set about "two dashes" to the left in the OSD in order to center the image.

I tried a number of recordings, concentrating on mono, all with the same result.

I'm not sure if this has been a problem for awhile, because this is the first truly critical music listening I've done for quite some time (as my old turntable took a dive not long after I got the Anthem). It's difficult for me to tell if it's an issue when any of the surround modes are engaged, I guess due to the more diffuse nature of the sound, and last night it was getting rather late and I didn't really explore that - and again, I'm not sure how to test for it.

I've gone through every setting on the unit (accessible from the OSD) and I can't see anything amiss.

I'd greatly appreciate some advice...thanks.

- Mark

Mark

Have you tried putting the headphones on backwards to see if the louder sound switches sides ?
I know it sounds silly but maybe your ears are the culprits ?

Yes, actually I did - I thought of that because I am just getting over a headcold!

Sounds like you have tried all the alternatives including
Switched interconnects to the amps
Switched the headphones to the opposite ear
Switched speakers
Tried different sources both digital and analog

How about restoring the Anthem to the System default settings ?
And finally re-install the firmware ?

A few things to try to eliminate the simple stuff.

First, make sure you don't have a "temporary" level setting which is confusing things. These are the settings you make with the buttons on the remote. To reset all of them at once, go into Setup and:

1) Save User Settings
2) Reload Factory Defaults. If you lose video at this point, continue using the Front Panel display.
3) Reload Saved User Settings.

The "temporary" settings are not saved, so this resets all of them.

---

Next, make sure that you have not accidentally altered some of the settings that ARC Uploaded into Setup for you. To do this, cable up your Windows PC, and double-click on your latest ARC results file, which will open it in the charts view. Now just do an Upload (line of buttons top left). That will re-Upload your ARC solution, including the settings made in Setup.

After completing the Upload, I suggest you go into Setup and Save User and Installer Settings to record what ARC has Uploaded into Setup for you.

---

Next, check your speaker distances in Setup > Listener Position. Screwed up speaker distances will make sounds that should be localized between a pair of speakers actually appear to be coming from the speaker that is at the bogus, closer relative position.

---

Next, go into Setup > Source Setup for each Source line in turn. First make sure that Room EQ is ON (enabling ARC). I also suggest you set Dolby Volume OFF while diagnosing this.

For any Source using Analog audio input (either stereo or 6-CH), be sure that you have ANALOG-DSP set -- not ANALOG-DIRECT. ANALOG-DSP is needed when using ARC as the Analog audio input has to be re-digitized for ARC to work. Using ANALOG-DIRECT, among other things, bypasses ARC for that Source.

---

Having done the above -- in particular having done the re-Upload of your ARC solution. Check your speaker levels again. Since you are using ARC, I recommend that you use a calibration disc instead of the internal test tones in Setup > Level Calibration, so that you hear the full effect of ARC.

For example, use the LPCM test tracks from AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, along with an SPL meter (so you are not dependent on hearing audio properly with your head cold). To keep things simple, I suggest you use HDMI LPCM audio from a Blu-ray player for this test.

While you are at it, use the speaker polarity test track to make sure all of your speakers are wired with the same polarity. Having some speakers wired with the polarity reversed will also screw up audio imaging, which can sound like a Balance problem.

---

If the above does not fix the problem, then you should give Anthem Tech Support a call. Your Anthem may need service.

They will likely ask you to redo your ARC Setup to make sure the problem isn't with your current ARC solution, but since the Headphones don't use ARC, if you are STILL hearing the same problem in the Headphones as the SPL meter and calibration disc is showing you on the main speakers, then it is likely not an ARC setup issue.
--Bob

Bob

Maybe you missed his statement but he states it is happening with Analog Direct which eliminates any of your above suggestions except the reset to default settings.

He still should try the reset and also re-install the firmware

^ It is easy for the user to get confused when checking an issue like this. Going through the basic steps I recommended won't take very long, and eliminates some possible points of confusion.

Which is a polite way of saying his report may not be completely accurate.

A hardware failure that affects just the volume (not the quality) of just one speaker output, and ALSO affects the matching headphone side the same way would be pretty unusual as they are different output circuits. An ARC failure doing that would be even more unusual since ARC does not apply to the headphone outputs.

So instead I'm just gong down the basic checklist for speaker level problems that might arise inside the AVM 50v.
--Bob

I've never even used an analog input on my Anthem, so maybe many of us have the problem and don't even know

^ As reported, his problem is also with digital Input, so odds are you would notice. Of course as with any complicated device, there's a chance of problems in parts you haven't used. Many folks never use Zone 3 for example. Or the AM Tuner. Or Simulcast audio.

Nick mentioned once the incredible number of steps necessary to vet a newly manufactured or repaired unit as actually working. It is highly unlikely any single, real user tries ALL that stuff.
--Bob

I thought he meant digital sources in the traditional sense, eg: CD player (as opposed to vinyl) connected via analog.

If so that would indicate there is something wrong with the analog input levels in the Anthem.

Do you know if the vertical bar graphs on the OSD next to the Analog(DSP) Input Levels show each channel individually or just a peak average of the channels? It's mentioned in the user manual section 3.8 but not clear... and could be handy to characterize the problem.
Edited by AVfile - 3/6/13 at 7:25pm

You should get a pure analog source and try them. Anthem has a great analog direct system with a fabulous volume control.

I get it ...thanks so much for all the suggestions...I will walk through them this weekend.

During my long commute today, I was wondering (especially in light of your remark about the speakers and headphones being on separate circuits), is it at all possible that some other connected component is flaky and drawing current somehow from one channel? I realized I do have some components connected to analog in, namely, my 6-channel from my Denon universal player and also L/R analog from my Pioneer laserdisc player.

Actually, as I clarified above, I do have other sources connected via analog , but haven't checked that...the digital source I was referring to was my Roku XS connected via HDMI, streaming 2-channel audio.

Thanks again to everyone for the input, I appreciate it.

- Mark

I am getting a new Macbook pro. I plan on installing Windows 7 on the boot camp partition.
For my D2 I am running ARC2.01. Should I instal the 32 bit or 64 bit of Window 7?

Your

MacBook Pro is 64 bit

So it doesn't matter if the software is 32 bit or 64bit?
Also does anyone know what the most current version of ARC for the d2?

32 bit software will run on windows 64 but you should be using the new version of ARC