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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1373

post #41161 of 42679
Thanks for clarifying guys. I get it now

I'll leave the speaker crossover settings alone until I run the ARC and see if it proves its worthiness smile.gif
post #41162 of 42679
In a perfect non-marketing world "Small" would be "bass crossover enabled" and "Large" would be "bass crossover disabled"

Shazbat think of it this way take a look at your two very nice subs...now look at your mains woofers which does bass better? I have powered 10" woofers in my mains and I still run with the bass crossover enabled... I mean "Small".
post #41163 of 42679
My Marantz BD8002 is not loading the newer movies and I have the latest firmware.
Marantz tells me they probably will not be updating the firmware for the unit any longer.
Therefore, I need a replacement. The audio portion of the BD8002 is working fine, so I can still use it for CD's.
I do not have a 3D tv, but I would like streaming.

What are you folks using with your Anthem's?

I was reading a review on the OPPO 103 and one of the comments was that if you do not have 1.4 you will not get the full benefit of the unit.
So I was wondering if the 50v will be upgradeable to 1.4 in the near future.
post #41164 of 42679
I use an old Oppo that's not getting any more upgrades either and a cheap Sony to fill those other needs. I recommend you do the same and get a cheap new Sony. The streaming is great and they have been pretty good about firmware fixes in the current models. The days of spending 1000's on a disc player are over.

If you wanted to sell the Marantz or move it to another system and need a Universal player that does everything, then the new Oppo 103 would be a fine choice. There are many people using it with all kinds of Anthems, don't worry about the HDMI spec. Anthem as a company supports Oppo, and Oppo as a company supports Anthem.

There is a "3D upgrade" available for the 50v if you ever wanted to get into 3D. It is not cheap and not essential because it just bypasses the video processor which you can do with cables.
Edited by AVfile - 7/17/13 at 7:51am
post #41165 of 42679
I have an Anthem D2v3D.

I recently finished my HT and have hooked it up to the projector for the first time, but noticed that I am getting a lot of screen tear and overall the picture is not as clear as I hoped. I was wondering if others here have the same equipment, that someone might provide some insight on what settings I should be using.

DVD Player: Oppo 95
Projector: Sony VPL-vw1000
HDMI Cable to projector: Monoprice Redmere cables that are about 30 ft long.

I played Avatar this morning and the screen tear was terrible. I tried Hobbit and it was not as bad but it was noticeable.

The D2v has not had any video changes, I have only run ARC to setup the speakers.

Thanks for any help.

Lastly, with the investment I have in the entire room, I though about possibly getting the system calibrated... Does anyone know about how much does it cost to have the projector calibrated?

Thanks,
Tony
post #41166 of 42679
I recently purchased a new AVM-50 and have been on the phone with tech support and they are recommending that I send the unit back so they can isolate the problem. I really would prefer not to send it back if I don't have to do so.

My blu-ray/CD player (Cambridge Azur 752) is connected to the Anthem via HDMI. My cable box *was* connected via HDMI to the Anthem, but thinking I had a handshake issue I changed to component/digital toslink connections from the cable box to the Anthem.

The problem is that when I have my cable box as a source, and I hold the source button down and then select an alternate audio source (CD), I lose the video image from the cable box. The unit works fine when I select the Cambridge video and then choose my cable box for audio. I only seem to have trouble with HDMI audio.

I've changed the settings multiple times, restored factory defaults and started over, etc., but I can't solve the problem and tech support is stumped.

Does anyone have any ideas? I had an AVM-20 for years and had no issues, and the only reason for the updgrade to the AVM-50 was to get HDMI and room correction, and now I'm having issues.
post #41167 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by davoran View Post

I recently purchased a new AVM-50 and have been on the phone with tech support and they are recommending that I send the unit back so they can isolate the problem. I really would prefer not to send it back if I don't have to do so.

My blu-ray/CD player (Cambridge Azur 752) is connected to the Anthem via HDMI. My cable box *was* connected via HDMI to the Anthem, but thinking I had a handshake issue I changed to component/digital toslink connections from the cable box to the Anthem.

The problem is that when I have my cable box as a source, and I hold the source button down and then select an alternate audio source (CD), I lose the video image from the cable box. The unit works fine when I select the Cambridge video and then choose my cable box for audio. I only seem to have trouble with HDMI audio.

I've changed the settings multiple times, restored factory defaults and started over, etc., but I can't solve the problem and tech support is stumped.

Does anyone have any ideas? I had an AVM-20 for years and had no issues, and the only reason for the updgrade to the AVM-50 was to get HDMI and room correction, and now I'm having issues.

I am unclear about what you are attempting to do here.
Why would you want an different audio source when viewing cable or a BluRay/CD disk ? Or am I missing something ?
post #41168 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by tspotorno View Post

I have an Anthem D2v3D.

I recently finished my HT and have hooked it up to the projector for the first time, but noticed that I am getting a lot of screen tear and overall the picture is not as clear as I hoped. I was wondering if others here have the same equipment, that someone might provide some insight on what settings I should be using.

DVD Player: Oppo 95
Projector: Sony VPL-vw1000
HDMI Cable to projector: Monoprice Redmere cables that are about 30 ft long.

I played Avatar this morning and the screen tear was terrible. I tried Hobbit and it was not as bad but it was noticeable.

The D2v has not had any video changes, I have only run ARC to setup the speakers.

Thanks for any help.

Lastly, with the investment I have in the entire room, I though about possibly getting the system calibrated... Does anyone know about how much does it cost to have the projector calibrated?

Thanks,
Tony

You should check your OPPO and Anthem setups. The OPPO should be sending 1080/24 to the Anthem and the Anthem sending the same to the Sony.
Your VPL-vw1000 projector has the better upscaling and will upscale the 1080p to 2160p.
post #41169 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by davoran View Post

I recently purchased a new AVM-50 and have been on the phone with tech support and they are recommending that I send the unit back so they can isolate the problem. I really would prefer not to send it back if I don't have to do so.

My blu-ray/CD player (Cambridge Azur 752) is connected to the Anthem via HDMI. My cable box *was* connected via HDMI to the Anthem, but thinking I had a handshake issue I changed to component/digital toslink connections from the cable box to the Anthem.

The problem is that when I have my cable box as a source, and I hold the source button down and then select an alternate audio source (CD), I lose the video image from the cable box. The unit works fine when I select the Cambridge video and then choose my cable box for audio. I only seem to have trouble with HDMI audio.

I've changed the settings multiple times, restored factory defaults and started over, etc., but I can't solve the problem and tech support is stumped.

Does anyone have any ideas? I had an AVM-20 for years and had no issues, and the only reason for the updgrade to the AVM-50 was to get HDMI and room correction, and now I'm having issues.

If I understand correctly what you are trying to do is listen to HDMI audio from source "A" while simultaneously watching Component video from source "B".

I don't think the hardware can do that.

HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of the HDMI video signal. Even when you are playing non-video content from, say, a CD, the HDMI audio is embedded in a video signal of SOME sort -- even if the player is just putting out a black screen.

Now, what this means is that the Anthem has to "process" the HDMI video to extract the audio. In terms of Setup, that means sending the HDMI input to the Scaler (the line near the top of the Source definition).

But there's only one Scaler and you've got the Component video going through it from your cable box.

So that HDMI from the CD player is not being processed, and thus its audio is not available for split-source playback.

To put it another way, you can watch HDMI video with its own audio or with any other NON-HDMI audio. And you can watch non-HDMI video with any NON-HDMI audio. But you can't listen to HDMI audio combined with any video but the video coming in on that same HDMI cable.

Now, what I would expect to happen is that your Component video would continue playing but you would not hear the HDMI audio you selected to accompany it.

Instead, as I understand, you are saying that you loser the Component video. You didn't mention, but do you get the HDMI audio or does it stay silent as well? That may be a bug in the firmware, but the bottom line is notwithstanding that, I don't believe you can do what you want to do.

HOWEVER, if you wire up an alternate audio path from the CD player, and define a Source which uses that for audio, then you CAN combine Component from the cable box with that other, non-HDMI audio.

In the case of a CD player, likely choices would be to wire either a Stereo Analog pair or to wire Optical or Coax Digital audio. In the case of a CD the digital audio carried by HDMI is identical to what's available on Optical or Coax, so that would be the closest match to what you are trying to do now.

One thing you'd need to check is whether your CD player produces output on *BOTH* HDMI and Optical/Coax while playing a CD. If so, then there's no hassle. Wire, say, Optical as well as the existing HDMI. Set one of your Source definitions to listen for audio on that Optical instead of the HDMI from the CD player. Select Component video from your cable box as you are doing now, and then select your new Source to combine that with Optical Digital audio from your CD player.
--Bob
post #41170 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by tspotorno View Post

I have an Anthem D2v3D.

I recently finished my HT and have hooked it up to the projector for the first time, but noticed that I am getting a lot of screen tear and overall the picture is not as clear as I hoped. I was wondering if others here have the same equipment, that someone might provide some insight on what settings I should be using.

DVD Player: Oppo 95
Projector: Sony VPL-vw1000
HDMI Cable to projector: Monoprice Redmere cables that are about 30 ft long.

I played Avatar this morning and the screen tear was terrible. I tried Hobbit and it was not as bad but it was noticeable.

The D2v has not had any video changes, I have only run ARC to setup the speakers.

Thanks for any help.

Lastly, with the investment I have in the entire room, I though about possibly getting the system calibrated... Does anyone know about how much does it cost to have the projector calibrated?

Thanks,
Tony

Tony, I suggest you give OPPO Tech Support a call and let them walk you through diagnosing this. They have a 3D capable Anthem in their test lab.

Here are some things to check in the interim.

To use 3D through the Anthem you need to wire the HDMI 1 output of the 95 to one of the upper row of HDMI inputs in the Anthem. (HDMI 1 - HDMI 4 input). Output to your projector must be via the upper HDMI output of the Anthem (Main HDMI Output).

The Setup > Source Setup definition you use for 3D playback must be set to use "THROUGH" for video instead of one of the 4, normal Video Output Configuration setups.

In the OPPO set the 3D output Mode to AUTO and leave all the Picture Adjustment settings at their default values. Set explicit 1080p output resolution (not AUTO or Source Direct).

Try a 3D disc and see what the Anthem says it is receiving as input, and also what your projector says it is receiving as input.

If still having problems, double check your HDMI cabling. Note that the Redmere HDMI cables are DIRECTIONAL. Make sure you have each of them installed the correct way around.

Make sure the plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets at each end.
--Bob
Edited by Bob Pariseau - 7/18/13 at 3:11pm
post #41171 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by tspotorno View Post

I have an Anthem D2v3D.

I recently finished my HT and have hooked it up to the projector for the first time, but noticed that I am getting a lot of screen tear and overall the picture is not as clear as I hoped. I was wondering if others here have the same equipment, that someone might provide some insight on what settings I should be using.

DVD Player: Oppo 95
Projector: Sony VPL-vw1000
HDMI Cable to projector: Monoprice Redmere cables that are about 30 ft long.

I played Avatar this morning and the screen tear was terrible. I tried Hobbit and it was not as bad but it was noticeable.

The D2v has not had any video changes, I have only run ARC to setup the speakers.

Thanks for any help.

Lastly, with the investment I have in the entire room, I though about possibly getting the system calibrated... Does anyone know about how much does it cost to have the projector calibrated?

Thanks,
Tony

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Tony, I suggest you give OPPO Tech Support a call and let them walk you through diagnosing this. They have a 3D capable Anthem in their test lab.

Here are some things to check in the interim.

To use 3D through the Anthem you need to wire the HDMI 1 output of the 95 to one of the upper row of HDMI inputs in the Anthem. (HDMI 1 - HDMI 4 input). Output to your projector must be via the upper HDMI output of the Anthem (Main HDMI Output).

The Setup > Source Setup definition you use for 3D playback must be set to use "THROUGH" for video instead of one of the 4, normal Video Output Configuration setups.

In the OPPO set the 3D output Mode to AUTO and leave all the Picture Adjustment settings at their default values. Set explicit 1080p output resolution (not AUTO or Source Direct).

Try a 3D disc and see what the Anthem says it is receiving as input, and also what your projector says it is receiving as input.

If still having problems, double check your HDMI cabling. Note that the Redmere HDMI cables are DIRECTIONAL. Make sure you have each of them installed the correct way around.

Make sure the plugs are fully inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets at each end.
--Bob

Bob,

He never said he was watching in 3D.
post #41172 of 42679
True. I just assumed it with "Avatar", and "Hobbit".
--Bob
post #41173 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

True. I just assumed it with "Avatar", and "Hobbit".
--Bob

As I would have also except I reread his questions two or three times before I responded.
His projector is Sony 4k and has an extremely good upscaler.
Better then the OPPO or the Anthem.

What I could not determine was "TEARING ". ?
post #41174 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

I am unclear about what you are attempting to do here.
Why would you want an different audio source when viewing cable or a BluRay/CD disk ? Or am I missing something ?

I often will have a ballgame on the monitor while listening to music in my theater room.
post #41175 of 42679
^ Same here. I can't stand the local baseball announcers.

I use Optical/Coax or multi-channel Analog input from another device in combination with HDMI video from my Cable TV box.

If you use one combo exclusively, and have a free Source Setup line, it's easy enough to define a new Source that does just that -- HDMI (or Component) video from the cable box and non-HDMI audio from something else. Then you can just select that Source without having to go through the rigmarole of split-Source simulplay.
--Bob
post #41176 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

If I understand correctly what you are trying to do is listen to HDMI audio from source "A" while simultaneously watching Component video from source "B".

I don't think the hardware can do that.

HDMI audio is not a separate signal. It is embedded in the blanking intervals of the HDMI video signal. Even when you are playing non-video content from, say, a CD, the HDMI audio is embedded in a video signal of SOME sort -- even if the player is just putting out a black screen.

Now, what this means is that the Anthem has to "process" the HDMI video to extract the audio. In terms of Setup, that means sending the HDMI input to the Scaler (the line near the top of the Source definition).

But there's only one Scaler and you've got the Component video going through it from your cable box.

So that HDMI from the CD player is not being processed, and thus its audio is not available for split-source playback.

To put it another way, you can watch HDMI video with its own audio or with any other NON-HDMI audio. And you can watch non-HDMI video with any NON-HDMI audio. But you can't listen to HDMI audio combined with any video but the video coming in on that same HDMI cable.

Now, what I would expect to happen is that your Component video would continue playing but you would not hear the HDMI audio you selected to accompany it.

Instead, as I understand, you are saying that you loser the Component video. You didn't mention, but do you get the HDMI audio or does it stay silent as well? That may be a bug in the firmware, but the bottom line is notwithstanding that, I don't believe you can do what you want to do.

HOWEVER, if you wire up an alternate audio path from the CD player, and define a Source which uses that for audio, then you CAN combine Component from the cable box with that other, non-HDMI audio.

In the case of a CD player, likely choices would be to wire either a Stereo Analog pair or to wire Optical or Coax Digital audio. In the case of a CD the digital audio carried by HDMI is identical to what's available on Optical or Coax, so that would be the closest match to what you are trying to do now.

One thing you'd need to check is whether your CD player produces output on *BOTH* HDMI and Optical/Coax while playing a CD. If so, then there's no hassle. Wire, say, Optical as well as the existing HDMI. Set one of your Source definitions to listen for audio on that Optical instead of the HDMI from the CD player. Select Component video from your cable box as you are doing now, and then select your new Source to combine that with Optical Digital audio from your CD player.
--Bob

Bob,

Thanks so much! I spoke with two different techs at Anthem and neither realized the audio can't be split this way.

Your suggestion helps greatly. The only thing that is disappointing is that I won't be able to watch sports while listening to hi-rez multichannel audio.
post #41177 of 42679
^ If your player has multi-channel Analog outputs then you can use those. I do that with an OPPO BDP-105. Set ANALOG-DSP input and enable ARC. Set the player to do no processing on that mutli-channel Analog output. E.g., all speakers Large, equidistant, and with 0dB Volume trim. ARC will take it from there.

By the way, don't be too hard on the Anthem phone support guys. Simulplay is one of the least commonly used features. My guess is they didn't really grasp what you were TRYING to do.
--Bob
post #41178 of 42679
A little more information, and a clarification. I have a Oppo 105 connected to the projector.

When sending the signal thru the D2v without Passthru, the screen looks like it drags or studders and is very pixilated.
When I send the signal with passthru, it is better, but the video still studders somewhat or lags
When I send it directly from the Oppo to the projector, it is crystal clear!

I am not watching 3d material, just 2d to set everything up.

Oppo settings:

3D output Auto
TV Aspect Ratio 16:9 Wide/Auto
TV: NTSC
Output Resolution Auto
1080P24 Output: On
DVD 24p Conversion Off
HDMI Options: Auto,Auto, Off, Off, Auto

Audio Setup:
HDMI Audio Auto

D2v settings
Preferred: HDMI
Resl'n: 1920x1080p24
Color Space: HDTV
Data: Auto
Output: Auto
Letterbox: Black
Sync: Normal

For Passthru I use
Vid Out Cnfg: Through
Scaler Input HDMI1
Audio In: Dig HDMI

When I press select while watching the movie I get D2v 3D 3.09


Should I just use a separate HDMI cable from 105 to the vw1000 and set the Oppo to output to both the projector and the D2v?
post #41179 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

rigmarole

HA! longtime lurker having to chime in to say bravo on use and spelling of one of my fav words! made my day. lol. how nerdy is that?

as you were...

ps - finally replacing my lex mc8B - served me super well for nigh on ten years now - with the d2v3d. very excited. out of the country but it's waiting for me to unpack at home. thanks for the terrific analysis and discussion on this board, and thanks also for being so courteous and adult, qualities not often in ample supply on the internets these days....


***
my system now:

anthem d2v3d
pioneer kuro 111pro plasma (still the best consumer directview to me, aside from dolby pro monitor etc..)
lexicon lx-5 amp for theatre zone; krell fpb400cx for stereo zone
thiel all around for the 5 and velodyne for the .1
dynaudio 3.4 in stereo room
denon 3800 brd
toshiba hddvd a1 something whatever it's called
pioneer ld/dvd-09 (i think, elite w wood sides..?) ld old school! one of the very first dvd players. got it in 97 i think.. still works!
dtv
apple tv (hdmi for apple tv, toslink for music playback thru dac)
wyred for sound dac1 for 2ch mx
jvc svhs (holding down the papers...)
sling box
ps3
t3 tuner i don't use anymore
itunes lossless music lib served from home automation master xserve in basement
transporter (slim devices) bedroom
linn klout
proac response 1sc
some other stuff here and there, other slim devices, airports for outside, etc, hafler and bose for outdoors..
***

can always upgrade but i've been steadily losing upgrade itis for a while now, pretty happy, don't need to be the best of the best, just really good, and that's good enough.. sometimes enough is enough. haven't really upgraded anything in three years or so until now with the anthem (was waiting patiently for lexicon to release a system w hd sound formats, etc.. but they took too long and have now lost the edge.. canadians overrunning the walls....)

thanks! sorry for ot bits....
post #41180 of 42679
Is it possible to use HDMI out 2 for Zone 2? It just seems dumb that you can't use a single HDMI cable instead of five other cables but, I can't see that you can. I am about to replace the display in my living room HT in a couple days. While I had the TV off the wall I was going to pull cables and put a TV in the bedroom that is on the other side of that wall. I don't need it to use a different source; I just want to be able to turn the sound off in Main. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
post #41181 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevetd View Post

Is it possible to use HDMI out 2 for Zone 2? It just seems dumb that you can't use a single HDMI cable instead of five other cables but, I can't see that you can. I am about to replace the display in my living room HT in a couple days. While I had the TV off the wall I was going to pull cables and put a TV in the bedroom that is on the other side of that wall. I don't need it to use a different source; I just want to be able to turn the sound off in Main. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Yes and no. The HDMI 2 output carries the same signal as HDMI 1 (except with no on-screen display overlays and no ability to use THROUGH mode, e.g., for 3D). Some people set up their Zone 2 to "Copy Main" which means that whatever Source is selected for Main also plays in Zone 2, and in that case the HDMI 2 output would work. But if you want to be able to select a DIFFERENT Source for Zone 2 than what's currently playing in Main, then you will need to use UNprocessed Component video, and you will be limited to viewing Sources that can send either Component or S-video to the Anthem (because HDMI input can not be "down-converted" to Component due to lack of copy protection on Component).

Now from the way you describe it, it sounds like you CAN use HDMI 2 as Copy Main for video. That lets you view your HDMI sources in the other room, so long as they are not set to use THROUGH for video. However, as I recall you may still need to wire a separate RCA pair for audio to have separate volume control as Zone 2. Look for an input on the TV described in its manual as for connection from DVI source devices -- where video and audio come into the TV separately.

The Main Path stereo down mix carried on HDMI 1 output is I believe also carried on HDMI 2. Volume in the Anthem does not affect the HDMI outputs -- volume control is done by whatever they are plugged into. But I'm not sure whether Mute applies to the HDMI outputs or not. That is, if you MUTE the Main Path, I'm not sure whether there's still audio on HDMI 2 for your TV to use. You'd have to do a trial hookup and check. If that's a problem you could just turn down Volume on main path. Meanwhile it the other room, since you are plugging into a TV, it will have its own Volume control, so you may very well not need Volume handled in the Anthem at all.

Obviously the thing to do is cart the other TV around to the main room, wire it up and try some experiments BEFORE you fish the cables through the walls. Start with just HDMI 2 and then add an RCA Zone 2 pair for audio if needed.
--Bob
post #41182 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by tspotorno View Post

A little more information, and a clarification. I have a Oppo 105 connected to the projector.

When sending the signal thru the D2v without Passthru, the screen looks like it drags or studders and is very pixilated.
When I send the signal with passthru, it is better, but the video still studders somewhat or lags
When I send it directly from the Oppo to the projector, it is crystal clear!

I am not watching 3d material, just 2d to set everything up.

Oppo settings:

3D output Auto
TV Aspect Ratio 16:9 Wide/Auto
TV: NTSC
Output Resolution Auto
1080P24 Output: On
DVD 24p Conversion Off
HDMI Options: Auto,Auto, Off, Off, Auto

Audio Setup:
HDMI Audio Auto

D2v settings
Preferred: HDMI
Resl'n: 1920x1080p24
Color Space: HDTV
Data: Auto
Output: Auto
Letterbox: Black
Sync: Normal

For Passthru I use
Vid Out Cnfg: Through
Scaler Input HDMI1
Audio In: Dig HDMI

When I press select while watching the movie I get D2v 3D 3.09


Should I just use a separate HDMI cable from 105 to the vw1000 and set the Oppo to output to both the projector and the D2v?

While this could be a cabling issue (with the D2v in the path), my first thought is that your problem has to do with use of 1080p/24. I'm not familiar enough with that projector, but you may have set it up so that it can't handle 1080p/24 input properly.

Let's try to collect some more data to diagnose this. Try this:

Wire through the D2v.

Set the OPPO to explicit 1080p Resolution output (not AUTO or Source Direct) with 1080p/24 AUTO (not ON).

Set the OPPO to HDMI 1 Color Space YCbCr 4:4:4 (not AUTO). Double check that you are connected to the HDMI 1 output of the OPPO.

Set the OPPO to HDMI Audio LPCM.

Set the D2v to 1080p/60 output (not 1080p/24).

Set the D2v video Output to YCbCr 4:4:4 (not AUTO).

Try both processed and THROUGH in the D2v. If STILL having problems try the next steps which are to reduce bandwidth on the cables:

Set the D2v video Data to 8 Bit.

If still having problems:

Set the OPPO to 1080i/60 output Resolution

Set the D2v to 1080i/60 output Resolution.

If reducing the Deep Color or Resolution fixes the problem when the earlier steps did not, then that suggests there is an HDMI cabling issue when going through the D2v. Check sockets and plugs with a flashlight for signs of pin damage and make sure the plugs are FULLY inserted STRAIGHT into the sockets with nothing (e.g., cable weight or cable kinks) tugging them in any direction.

If you don't spot anything in the cabling, try viewing the built in test pattens in the D2v. Press and hold the "7" button until the Video Source Adjust menu appears. (Use Back button later to exit from it.) Scroll across the tabs at the top to Patterns and then scroll down to select the various test patterns. These are generated in the D2v independent of any Source device. Do they too show video problems on your projector? If so call Anthem Tech Support as your D2v may need service.
--Bob
post #41183 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by tspotorno View Post

A little more information, and a clarification. I have a Oppo 105 connected to the projector.

When sending the signal thru the D2v without Passthru, the screen looks like it drags or studders and is very pixilated.
When I send the signal with passthru, it is better, but the video still studders somewhat or lags
When I send it directly from the Oppo to the projector, it is crystal clear!

I am not watching 3d material, just 2d to set everything up.

Oppo settings:

3D output Auto
TV Aspect Ratio 16:9 Wide/Auto
TV: NTSC
Output Resolution Auto
1080P24 Output: On
DVD 24p Conversion Off
HDMI Options: Auto,Auto, Off, Off, Auto

Audio Setup:
HDMI Audio Auto

D2v settings
Preferred: HDMI
Resl'n: 1920x1080p24
Color Space: HDTV
Data: Auto
Output: Auto
Letterbox: Black
Sync: Normal

For Passthru I use
Vid Out Cnfg: Through
Scaler Input HDMI1
Audio In: Dig HDMI

When I press select while watching the movie I get D2v 3D 3.09


Should I just use a separate HDMI cable from 105 to the vw1000 and set the Oppo to output to both the projector and the D2v?

I know Bob's suggestions were probably very appropriate this seems like a better and easier solution.
Go to this forum and ask your question of users of the Sony VPL-VW1000ES.
There are several who use the Anthem and the OPPO 105 and will be happy to describe the correct setup settings.
Your projector is capable of receiving any 1080P signal and upscalling it to 2160 (4K) as the Sony Reality Creation upscaler is one of the worlds best.

Sony VPL-vw1000

And then return here and tell us what you did and how it worked.

Stew
post #41184 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Yes and no. The HDMI 2 output carries the same signal as HDMI 1 (except with no on-screen display overlays and no ability to use THROUGH mode, e.g., for 3D). Some people set up their Zone 2 to "Copy Main" which means that whatever Source is selected for Main also plays in Zone 2, and in that case the HDMI 2 output would work. But if you want to be able to select a DIFFERENT Source for Zone 2 than what's currently playing in Main, then you will need to use UNprocessed Component video, and you will be limited to viewing Sources that can send either Component or S-video to the Anthem (because HDMI input can not be "down-converted" to Component due to lack of copy protection on Component).

Now from the way you describe it, it sounds like you CAN use HDMI 2 as Copy Main for video. That lets you view your HDMI sources in the other room, so long as they are not set to use THROUGH for video. However, as I recall you may still need to wire a separate RCA pair for audio to have separate volume control as Zone 2. Look for an input on the TV described in its manual as for connection from DVI source devices -- where video and audio come into the TV separately.

The Main Path stereo down mix carried on HDMI 1 output is I believe also carried on HDMI 2. Volume in the Anthem does not affect the HDMI outputs -- volume control is done by whatever they are plugged into. But I'm not sure whether Mute applies to the HDMI outputs or not. That is, if you MUTE the Main Path, I'm not sure whether there's still audio on HDMI 2 for your TV to use. You'd have to do a trial hookup and check. If that's a problem you could just turn down Volume on main path. Meanwhile it the other room, since you are plugging into a TV, it will have its own Volume control, so you may very well not need Volume handled in the Anthem at all.

Obviously the thing to do is cart the other TV around to the main room, wire it up and try some experiments BEFORE you fish the cables through the walls. Start with just HDMI 2 and then add an RCA Zone 2 pair for audio if needed.
--Bob

Bob,

Thank you so much for your very informative post!

Steve
post #41185 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Set the OPPO to explicit 1080p Resolution output (not AUTO or Source Direct) with 1080p/24 AUTO (not ON).

Yes, with the Oppo set to AUTO and the Sony on the other end it's possible the Oppo was trying to upscale to 2160p and the Anthem can't handle it properly, even in Through mode.
post #41186 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVfile View Post


Yes, with the Oppo set to AUTO and the Sony on the other end it's possible the Oppo was trying to upscale to 2160p and the Anthem can't handle it properly, even in Through mode.

Yes, The Anthem cannot pass 2160p (4K ) even in Through mode.I have tried it.

In fact, I think the Through mode is needed for Active shutter 3D and is not required for circular polarization (RealD) with passive glasses.
I regularly watch passive 3D from Comcast cable or from Blu Rays without using Through mode.
post #41187 of 42679
Bob and others,

This old time D2/D2V owner has not been keeping up on the forums for over a year. I'm in the midst of some home re-modeling, and now that the dust has settled (lterally), and been cleaned up rather nicely (pats himself on the back), I am finally ready to tackle getting my D2V up to date on software. You guys will laugh, but I'm still running 2.10 on my D2V. My question is what is the best most current public GA release for my D2V these days? BTW, I do NOT have the 3D board installed, I'm still one of these guys that did the 3D work-around going back a couple years, where I have a special "virtual" source that just takes the audio from my Oppo 95 and sends a direct signal to my Elite 70inch, for when I want to watch 3D only. Of course, for all normal 2D viewing, everything goes through the D2V. Since I've already wired the 25 foot cable from that Oppo to the Elite TV, I really don't feel any need to do the 3D board at present. I don't have any other 3D sources, not sure if any will come along that inspire me in the near future. Until one does, I'll probably stick to my "old fashioned plain old D2V".

Thanks for the input guys, all feedback welcome as always. I'm going to have to re-do ARC most likely, as we have some new Hunter Douglas motorized window treatments coming in soon, and that will surely change the acoustics in the room (for the better they tell me, we'll see!). I may add some corner traps and such as well.

-Brian
post #41188 of 42679
^ The current official firmware for all D2v units (with or without the 3D upgrade) is V3.09. The current ARC application software for Windows is ARC V3.0.2. Both are on the normal, public download pages on the Anthem site.

Coming from old firmware, there's a small chance the video board won't program properly. Since you are on V2.10, I think you are already past the point where you have to worry about that, but if you DO run into a problem, Anthem Tech Support can sort it out for you. The trick is to do the firmware install on a weekday, so that you can reach them easily if need be. (Tell them what version you were coming FROM.)

Video Board Programming is done in multiple small steps, so don't be alarmed if you see what looks like the video board programming starting over and over and over again. That's normal. Expect an install that requires video board programming to take about 45 minutes.

In terms of the Beta releases (from their password protected download page), V3.09j is safe. Versions after that should NOT be used as they are currently working an issues that causes the surround speakers to lose audio. Right now they've got V3.09l (that "L" as in Lucy) on there and it should NOT be used.
--Bob
post #41189 of 42679
I no longer have access to the PC I used to run ARC and PBK, I want to switch both from auto to flat in the target customization mode. Will I have to re ARC and PBK both using a new PC or is there a way to extract my current measurements and EQ from sub and AVM50 and then change target mode? Hope that makes sense.
post #41190 of 42679
Quote:
Originally Posted by turk 182 View Post

I no longer have access to the PC I used to run ARC and PBK, I want to switch both from auto to flat in the target customization mode. Will I have to re ARC and PBK both using a new PC or is there a way to extract my current measurements and EQ from sub and AVM50 and then change target mode? Hope that makes sense.

ARC (and I assume PBK) create a file for each run you complete and saves that file. If those files were not saved to a thumb drive or to your new pc then you are out of luck and will need to do new measurements.
If you mean by 'no longer have access' that your pc died then you are out of luck. But if the pc is still running but just not in your possession, and whoever has it can send you the files, then you don't have to re-run ARC. You can load the file on your new pc and open it in the ARC program.
ARC unfortunately only allows you to 'upload' from your pc to your AVM50. AFAIK there is no way to download the ARC file from your unit to your pc.

I'm pretty sure its time for you to get out the mic's and do a new ARC and PBK measurement.

Tom
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