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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1382

post #41431 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonNo10 View Post

After almost 2 days the buzzing returned. I did as you suggested and removed the Right Front speaker cables and swapped them with the Front Left and the buzzing didn't transfer. I then removed the Right Front XLR and swapped with the Front Left XLR and the buzzing wasn't there. Put things back to normal and the buzzing comes out of the Front Right Speaker. So with this now tested am I to believe the Front Right XLR/channel input stage is defective?

Try what Bob has suggested first.

Then

I need a bit of clarity on this statement. " I then removed the Right Front XLR and swapped with the Front Left XLR and the buzzing wasn't there. Put things back to normal and the buzzing comes out of the Front Right Speaker. "

When you did the swap from the Anthem to the amp input, Front Left XLR input to Right Front XLR input, did you also plug the Left Front XLR into the amps Right Front input ?
If not do it and see if the buzz now comes from the left front.

if the buzz continues next question.

Is this happening from every source ? If you did not check, switch inputs with the Anthem source selection and see if the buzz stops or starts.
Or is it only on one source or more ?
If you find it is one source, try the multimeter test I described earlier in a past post
From the source causing the buzz to the Anthem, test for voltage from a bare metal spot on the troubling source to the Anthem ground screw.
post #41432 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

Guys, I'll be having my dealer install the 3D upgrade card for my D2V next week, and wondering a couple things about my setup as I prepare for the surgery:

1. How long did it take you to have your D2V upgraded? Is it a 10 minute operation or are we talking several hours of work to simply add the 3D upgrade? [Incidentally, I do already have 3.09 already installed on my D2V].

2. I have the Oppo 95 BluRay player, and for the last 2 years, I've had it cabled in a "workaround" fashion, in order to handle 3D movie viewing - essentially, all this time, I've been using HDMI 1 port directly to my 3D capable TV, and HDMI 2 is cabled to the D2V for ONLY the audio side of things. I think I had to configure some different settings in the Oppo to make all of this play nice, but it's been working great for 2 years, so I haven't touched it. Now of course, this will all be changing. Following the 3D upgrade card being installed in my D2V, I assume I would just get rid of 1 of my 2 HDMI outputs from the Oppo, correct? I would just send HDMI 1 cable out directly to the D2V, and I guess not use HDMI 2 at all. Or is there still some advantage to separating HDMI 1 for video only and HDMI 2 for audio siginals only, both going to the D2V of course now?

Set me straight if you could, and any other hints of feedback are appreciated on this.

-Brian

About the most complicated aspect of the install is removing and replacing all the screws. What gets swapped out is the daughter board electronics that feeds the upper row of HDMI inputs and outputs. That's right at the top of the chassis. Precautions have to be taken against static electricity to make sure you don't zap the exposed electronics.

However, after the new hardware is put in and the chassis buttoned up again, you have to RE-install V3.09 (or later) firmware to initialize the new hardware. And of course that takes a little time.

After it's all done, yes you can use just HDMI 1 out of the OPPO 95. Note that you'll likely want to set up a separate Source Definition in the D2v for when you want to view the OPPO in "THROUGH" mode -- necessary whenever you want to do 3D passthrough.
--Bob
post #41433 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

Try what Bob has suggested first.

Then

I need a bit of clarity on this statement. " I then removed the Right Front XLR and swapped with the Front Left XLR and the buzzing wasn't there. Put things back to normal and the buzzing comes out of the Front Right Speaker. "

When you did the swap from the Anthem to the amp input, Front Left XLR input to Right Front XLR input, did you also plug the Left Front XLR into the amps Right Front input ?
If not do it and see if the buzz now comes from the left front.

if the buzz continues next question.

Is this happening from every source ? If you did not check, switch inputs with the Anthem source selection and see if the buzz stops or starts.
Or is it only on one source or more ?
If you find it is one source, try the multimeter test I described earlier in a past post
From the source causing the buzz to the Anthem, test for voltage from a bare metal spot on the troubling source to the Anthem ground screw.

Hey. I didn't touch the XLR's at all on the back of the Anthem just on the back of the Krell amp. Switching sources doesn't affect the buzzing. I gave back the Multimeter to my mate but I can ask to borrow it again.
Edited by SimonNo10 - 8/24/13 at 12:54am
post #41434 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ One other possibility is that you have faulty/intermittent interconnect cables on the failing side -- not the signal, just the shielding -- i.e., the cable shield is not making good contact end to end, but when you move the cables it makes contact. This could also explain why it takes time for the problem to return, as the cable slowly sags under its weight.

Try swapping in the cables from the good side, and also try shifting the cables on the bad side about a bit to see if you can detect something like that.

The odds are not great, but replacing cables is cheaper, so definitely worth a try. If the cables from the good side still exhibit the problem when used on the bad side, then yeah, it sounds like faulty electronics.
--Bob

Thanks Bob. The cables are pretty much brand new and not cheap ones also I don't know which is the good side and the bad side so unclear what you mean by this? Do you mean swapping the speaker cable from another speaker like the front left? Sorry if I seem to be going in circles but I am trying to work out what others are trying to convey to me and how to eliminate possible causes. Once again thanks for your suggestions as it is proving difficult and frustrating.

*Update* System has been turned off at the wall points for most of the day. I turned just the amp and Anthem for some radio then put on the Oppo for some cd's. After about 10mins of listening to a cd the buzzing came back, starting light then went loud. So put amp in standby as well as the Anthem and did the XLR swap (Left and Right inputs) on both the amp and the Anthem and the buzzing remained in the right speaker. Also I pulled out the Front Right speaker cable from the amp and put in the Front Left Speaker cable into the Right Front speaker terminals and the buzzing appeared in the Front Left speaker. I did this with the Center speaker cable and the buzzing appeared in that speaker as well so it's not the cables but that channel which I now believe is faulty, going from this test and this was with the XLR's back into their proper inputs on both units. I think the earth in the XLR input on the Krell is faulty which is why the buzzing stopped when I touched the ground wire to the speaker banana plug in the Krell for the Front Right speaker.

What do you think guys?
Edited by SimonNo10 - 8/24/13 at 1:42am
post #41435 of 42717
Bob,

Just a quick question...when you set in ARC the speakers to full range, does it mean that the lfe channel is also being redirected to that speaker? Or is the case that the crossover setup by arc for that speaker is being bypass and all the frequency range is send to that speaker?

Thanks,

Christian
post #41436 of 42717
Hey Simon, sounds like the Krell is the culprit.........likely something in that one channels module. I'd say unlikely to be a grounding issue, unless its a grounding issue internally of the Krell on that one channel.

You already completely swapped the left and right XLR cables and is stayed with the Krell channel so it's not the XLR cable.

Cheers
post #41437 of 42717
Exciting find

This is probably the most in depth and comprehensive review of the Anthem ARC system I have ever read.
The reviewer gives you some insights into how and why ARC does what it does and apparently Anthem gave him system information that no one else has been able to have.

I urge you to read it in its entirety.

From Secrets of Home Theater and High Fidelity


Audio Calibration

Anthem Room Correction (ARC) System - Part 1
post #41438 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post

I got my new mic from Anthem the Thursday. On Wednesday I decided to try to get rid the 40hz dip in my subs. Using 'quick measure' I did some some tweaking with positioning the subs and setting phase in the subs. I got the best QM reading by setting one sub's phase to 150* and leaving the other at 0*. The subs are both on the front wall facing into the room away from the corners, and fairly equidistant from the MLP. I wouldn't have thought changing the phase, especially to 150*, would make a positive difference, bit it seemed to. Any thoughts on this from you guys would be appreciated.
I then decided to do a new ARC run with the old mic so that I could compare it to the ARC run I did on Thursday after I got my new mic.
The first 3 images are the music charts and targets for the run with the old mic.




These next 2 pictures are the music chart and targets using the new mic.



Please notice a couple things.
First the huge dip at 11khz with the old mic is gone! biggrin.gif
There seems to be a bigger dip at 1-2khz with the new mic. I don't know why, unless its really there, and the old mic wasn't picking it up. ARC seems to be taking care of it.

Next, please notice the difference in the room gain for movie and music in the run with the new mic. The uploaded speaker levels were also different for movie sub (-0.5) and music sub (-1.5) in the Anthem setup menu.
In the run with the old mic I used Bob's method of making a 'same as movie' run and changing the speaker configuration by 'n'-ing out the unused speakers for music. The room gain is the same in with Bob's method, and the uploaded speaker levels were the same for movie and music subs.

Now ,since I made two separate runs for the ARC run with the new mic --one for a 5.1/movie setup and a 2.1/music setup-- I can't guarantee that I positioned in exactly the same spots for the 5 different mic positions in each run, but I did my best to make them as close to the same positions as humanly possible.
The lower room gain for music and the reduced speaker level uploaded for the music sub are consistent with the many ARC runs I have made using separate movie/music runs. The room gain is always lower, usually 0.5db to 1.0db less. The music speaker level for the sub is consistently lower also, usually around 1.0db less.

In all the ARC runs I have done over the years (I'd guess at least 30 runs) I have always had these same findings--lower room gain and sub speaker level for music. I'm pretty sure if it were due to mic positioning that some time the movie/music room gain and sub speaker levels would have been reversed, with the music settings being higher than the movie's. But this has never happened.

Has anyone else had these findings when doing separate ARC runs for movie and music ?? Would anyone who uses different speaker setups for movies and music be willing to do separate movie/music runs the next time you run ARC and post your findings. It might not prove that there are different algorithms for movie and music in ARC, but there has to be some reason for the differences when doing separate runs.

Tom


I have been concerned about an almost 20db dip beginning at 5khz for a while (which I have had since I got a D2v, but which did not exist with my old D2). I spoke to Piero a while back, who told my that the dip was not a bad mic. After seeing your results, I think a new mic is in my future.
post #41439 of 42717
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post

I got my new mic from Anthem the Thursday. On Wednesday I decided to try to get rid the 40hz dip in my subs. Using 'quick measure' I did some some tweaking with positioning the subs and setting phase in the subs. I got the best QM reading by setting one sub's phase to 150* and leaving the other at 0*. The subs are both on the front wall facing into the room away from the corners, and fairly equidistant from the MLP. I wouldn't have thought changing the phase, especially to 150*, would make a positive difference, bit it seemed to. Any thoughts on this from you guys would be appreciated.
I then decided to do a new ARC run with the old mic so that I could compare it to the ARC run I did on Thursday after I got my new mic.
The first 3 images are the music charts and targets for the run with the old mic.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ASW View Post

I have been concerned about an almost 20db dip beginning at 5khz for a while (which I have had since I got a D2v, but which did not exist with my old D2). I spoke to Piero a while back, who told my that the dip was not a bad mic. After seeing your results, I think a new mic is in my future.

Tom

Did Anthem supply new microphone calibration software with the new microphone ?

I wonder if that explains and accounts for the dramatic difference in the high frequency response curve
post #41440 of 42717
Stew,
Thanks for the in-depth info on ARC. It was most enlightening. Better than what I've gotten from Anthem, as a dealer.
TJG
post #41441 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

Did Anthem supply new microphone calibration software with the new microphone ?

I wonder if that explains and accounts for the dramatic difference in the high frequency response curve

stew,

Yes the new mic came with its own calibration file.Each mic has its own calibration file on file at Anthem. If you ever lose the disc that came with your ARC kit Anthem can send you the mic calibration file.
Your question brings up another question (which, in fact, I have considered before): Is the microphone defective or was it not calibrated correctly?? Either would explain the difference in the charts. And, again, there was no other differences except the mic's and their matching calibration files. All the same equipment and speakers in the same room, with all equipment, speakers and furniture in the same exact position. Same laptop and same ARC download. The only possible difference could be the position of the 5 mic positions, but I tried to the best of my ability to match them as close as humanly possible. I even left the mic stand the same from one day to the next so as not to change the height.

So, did I have a bad mic with a good calibration file, OR a good mic with a bad calibration file. I guess I'll never know, unless someone from Anthem wants my old mic and calibration file to test.

Tom.
Edited by tngiloy - 8/24/13 at 1:52pm
post #41442 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by ASW View Post

I have been concerned about an almost 20db dip beginning at 5khz for a while (which I have had since I got a D2v, but which did not exist with my old D2). I spoke to Piero a while back, who told my that the dip was not a bad mic. After seeing your results, I think a new mic is in my future.

ASW,
Does your dealer have a D2v on display?? If so would he be willing to let you use your mic to run ARC on his unit?? If you can compare ARC runs with the same equipment, etc., and get drastically different charts, then you may have a bad mic (or calibration file).

Did you sell your D2 and ARC kit?? If you still have the old D2 mic and calibration file you can use that to compare at your home.

Anthem tech did finally admit to me that they did have some bad mics, and there have been a couple posters here who got Anthem to replace mics. If you bought your D2v thru a dealer Anthem should replace your mic free of charge. I got my D2v used (not thru a dealer) and Anthem did not have to honor the warrantee, even thought he ARC kit came unused. They didn't have to stand behind their product, and they didn't. A new mic cost me $142 which seems reasonable.

On the other hand, a few years back I had an amp on an SVS sub go bad. It was 2 months out of warrantee. I called SVS to order a replacement amp and they shipped me a new amp no questions asked, free of charge. When I asked the person's name, so I could contact SVS to give him an 'atta boy!', he told me not to bother. Seems he was the co-owner/president. Since then I have bought 2 new subs, both SVS. What was the ultimate cost of a new amp and shipping to SVS?? I don't know, but it sure bought them my loyalty and future business. Other company's should take note. Just saying.

Tom
post #41443 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post

stew,

Yes the new mic came with its own calibration file.Each mic has its own calibration file on file at Anthem. If you ever lose the disc that came with your ARC kit Anthem can send you the mic calibration file.
Your question brings up another question (which, in fact, I have considered before): Is the microphone defective or was it not calibrated correctly?? Either would explain the difference in the charts. And, again, there was no other differences except the mic's and their matching calibration files. All the same equipment and speakers in the same room, with all equipment, speakers and furniture in the same exact position. Same laptop and same ARC download. The only possible difference could be the position of the 5 mic positions, but I tried to the best of my ability to match them as close as humanly possible. I even left the mic stand the same from one day to the next so as not to change the height.

So, did I have a bad mic with a good calibration file, OR a good mic with a bad calibration file. I guess I'll never know, unless someone from Anthem wants my old mic and calibration file to test.

Tom.

My mic's high end graph looks like your old one. And most we see posted here do also. But, compare your new mic with the graphs from the article I posted above.

Anthem Room Correction (ARC) System - Part 1.


His graphs are like your new mic.

Stew
post #41444 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

Exciting find

This is probably the most in depth and comprehensive review of the Anthem ARC system I have ever read.
The reviewer gives you some insights into how and why ARC does what it does and apparently Anthem gave him system information that no one else has been able to have.

I urge you to read it in its entirety.

From Secrets of Home Theater and High Fidelity


Audio Calibration

Anthem Room Correction (ARC) System - Part 1

Part 2 (adding in a Subwoofer) is available here:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/audio-calibration/audio-calibration-reviews/anthem-room-correction-arc-including-a-subwoofer.html

--Bob
post #41445 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post

ASW,
Does your dealer have a D2v on display?? If so would he be willing to let you use your mic to run ARC on his unit?? If you can compare ARC runs with the same equipment, etc., and get drastically different charts, then you may have a bad mic (or calibration file).

Did you sell your D2 and ARC kit?? If you still have the old D2 mic and calibration file you can use that to compare at your home.

Anthem tech did finally admit to me that they did have some bad mics, and there have been a couple posters here who got Anthem to replace mics. If you bought your D2v thru a dealer Anthem should replace your mic free of charge. I got my D2v used (not thru a dealer) and Anthem did not have to honor the warrantee, even thought he ARC kit came unused. They didn't have to stand behind their product, and they didn't. A new mic cost me $142 which seems reasonable.

On the other hand, a few years back I had an amp on an SVS sub go bad. It was 2 months out of warrantee. I called SVS to order a replacement amp and they shipped me a new amp no questions asked, free of charge. When I asked the person's name, so I could contact SVS to give him an 'atta boy!', he told me not to bother. Seems he was the co-owner/president. Since then I have bought 2 new subs, both SVS. What was the ultimate cost of a new amp and shipping to SVS?? I don't know, but it sure bought them my loyalty and future business. Other company's should take note. Just saying.

Tom

Tom:

I purchased my D2v directly from Anthem as an upgrade from my D2 (I purchased my D2 from 6th Avenue Electronics, which is long gone). Unfortunately, I had to send Anthem my ARC mic when I upgraded my D2. I sent Piero an email earlier today to start a further discussion about the mic situation. Given that I have a 20db dip at the same level with 7 different speakers (2 of which are in-wall and 2 of which are in ceiling), and that the dip did not exist at all with my D2, I would be pretty surprised if it is not a mic issue (although the question of whether it is a bad mic or bad calibration is interesting).

I agree that while Anthem usually is really good, every once in a while you wonder what they are thinking when they do things like giving people problems about replacing questionable usb mics for their $8k processors.

Alan
post #41446 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by MACCA350 View Post

Hey Simon, sounds like the Krell is the culprit.........likely something in that one channels module. I'd say unlikely to be a grounding issue, unless its a grounding issue internally of the Krell on that one channel.

You already completely swapped the left and right XLR cables and is stayed with the Krell channel so it's not the XLR cable.

Cheers

Yes I believe your right about the grounding so I've sent Krell a support request online so will wait for their reply. I've had a dead rear channel (RCA) on this amp in the past which they repaired free of charge as it was a year after the warranty but I will have to pay for this repair, I purchased it in 2004 and only comes with a 5 year warranty. Between this and my Anthem troubles I'm surprised I continue with this hobby but hopefully light at the end of the tunnel with the HP+ amps for the Submersives, and probably good timing with this amp issue with not having subs at the moment for 2-3 weeks. Got to remain positive smile.gif.

Thanks again for all the assist guys, one of the reasons this forum is one of the best.
post #41447 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Part 2 (adding in a Subwoofer) is available here:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/audio-calibration/audio-calibration-reviews/anthem-room-correction-arc-including-a-subwoofer.html

--Bob

What a great review of ARC
post #41448 of 42717
^ Yes, it's nice to see such an in-depth verification of what our ears have already been telling us! smile.gif
--Bob
post #41449 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

My mic's high end graph looks like your old one. And most we see posted here do also. But, compare your new mic with the graphs from the article I posted above.

Anthem Room Correction (ARC) System - Part 1.


His graphs are like your new mic.

Stew

But what does it all mean. New batch of mics? New calibration system?

I didn't read the article yet, just looked at the graphs and you are right, they do look like mine at the top end. His graphs also seemed to be centered around 65db. I don't know if that's because he didn't set the LF and sub to 75db, or if its an anomaly with win8. Again I didn't read the article yet, but plan to soon. Bronco's play tonight eek.gif and its an addiction I need to feed.

It will be interesting to see ASW's new graphs when he gets a new mic . Good luck with that ASW. Keep us updated, please.

Tom
post #41450 of 42717
^

Tom
Since your with in driving distance and close to Denver would be nice to meet you at the Rocky Mountain Audio Fest.. I'll be there from between Oct 11 to Oct 13.

Stew
post #41451 of 42717
Just seems a little odd that ARC, with its fixation on "text book" LR 4th-order crossover slopes, dismisses the textbook when it comes to treating the LFE channel. As a result, users are confined to setting the crossovers ≥ 80 Hz unless they don't mind cutting into the LFE signal even more so. I myself happen to like rolling off the LFE at 80 Hz, but that should be the user's choice independent of the choice of crossover settings. Those big Legacy Focus SEs with dual 12s as used at Kris Deering's GTG seem willing and able to delve deeper than 80 Hz. wink.gif
post #41452 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post

But what does it all mean. New batch of mics? New calibration system?

I didn't read the article yet, just looked at the graphs and you are right, they do look like mine at the top end. His graphs also seemed to be centered around 65db. I don't know if that's because he didn't set the LF and sub to 75db, or if its an anomaly with win8. Again I didn't read the article yet, but plan to soon. Bronco's play tonight eek.gif and its an addiction I need to feed.

It will be interesting to see ASW's new graphs when he gets a new mic . Good luck with that ASW. Keep us updated, please.

Tom

Will do. When I get a chance, I will upload the graphs from my D2 next to those from my D2v. They are pretty night and day.

Thanks.

Alan
post #41453 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post

Just seems a little odd that ARC, with its fixation on "text book" LR 4th-order crossover slopes, dismisses the textbook when it comes to treating the LFE channel. As a result, users are confined to setting the crossovers ≥ 80 Hz unless they don't mind cutting into the LFE signal even more so. I myself happen to like rolling off the LFE at 80 Hz, but that should be the user's choice independent of the choice of crossover settings. Those big Legacy Focus SEs with dual 12s as used at Kris Deering's GTG seem willing and able to delve deeper than 80 Hz. wink.gif

My Genesis 5.3s with their Servo controlled woofers and 400 watt amps can go to 16 Hz.
In fact if your familiar with them they have their own LFE inputs and can act as sub woofers
post #41454 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

My Genesis 5.3s with their Servo controlled woofers and 400 watt amps can go to 16 Hz.
In fact if your familiar with them they have their own LFE inputs and can act as sub woofers
So that means you'd not be affected by this quirk of ARC, as you can just set the mains to full range and set the sub filter exactly where you'd like LFE to rolloff. It's a great way to avoid the issue, albeit expensive. It would be better for everyone else if Anthem would just separate the LFE bandwidth from the rest of the bass management.
post #41455 of 42717
I just read the Secrets articles and (although some of it was over my head) I think I understood the author to suggest that if the sub x-over ARC chose was much below 80hz that you should set "BYPASS LFE X-OVER" to ''yes'' for 'movie' configuration in the setup menu or some of the LFE information would be lost. I think he said that LFE info in the .1 channel often went to 200 hz, and since my sub x-over is set to 60hz and my sub cut-off is 110hz should I set it to 'yes' ??

This setting has always confused me. What is the consensus here ??

Tom
post #41456 of 42717
^ that setting is only used when ARC is off.
Let's not jump to any conclusions based on this review. The last big in-depth review that was posted here got it wrong too.

Edit: this is the SAME review that was linked here several months ago. I think he was mistaken about how the LFE is handled. In particular the user manual states (and Nick confirmed) the BYPASS LFE FILTER setting is only used when ARC is off and has no effect when ARC is on.
Edited by AVfile - 8/25/13 at 1:32pm
post #41457 of 42717
Ripped from one of Bob's many excellent posts.
Quote:
Then download a fresh copy of ARC V3.0.2 from the Anthem web site and install that. If you originally installed ARC from your ARC install CD, that CD may have an older version on it. Depending on HOW old that CD is, you may also need to manually copy the two files from it which are your ARC license and your individual ARC mic calibration data file. These are on the CD where the Setup.EXE program (the installer itself) is located. They have names made up of numbers -- the serial number of your AVM 50v and the serial number of your ARC mic. Download and Unzip the ARC V3.02 install kit from the Anthem site. Go into the resulting folder a couple levels and find the Setup.EXE program. Now insert your original ARC install CD. If its installer starts up automatically, just quit out of it. Now go into the CD and find the Setup.EXE program on it, and thus the two files with the ARC license and ARC calibration data -- the two files with names made up of numbers. Copy those two files from the CD to the place in the downloaded version where you found the Setup.EXE program. Now eject the install CD; you are done with it. Finally run the Setup.EXE from the downloaded version. It will install ARC V3.0.2 and copy the two files to the right place at the same time.
post #41458 of 42717
URC remote integration question - guys, I just got a new MX-5000 and an MRX-1 from URC and want to start controlling all my devices in a more streamlined, "clean" way. Many of my components have 3.5mm IR Inputs on the rear panel for directly connecting to a controller like the MRX-1. Case in point, my Oppo 95. The question is how best to do this with the D2V? There are some IR "Receivers" on the rear of the D2V, but they are in that large green block thing, not a normal 3.5mm input like the Oppo. I do know that the D2V allows you to set IR Inputs in the menu, but first I need to conquer the physical cabling issue. I'm sure the D2V has a workable method here, I'm just struggling to figure out what that would be. I know it also has IR "Emitters", and those are 3.5mm indeed, but they aren't the right solution, as they are for blasting IR outbound, not for receiving IR commands inbound, correct??

Anybody have a URC MRX-1 or the older MSC-400 and using direct IR connections to the D2V (ie, NOT with a simple IR blaster stuck to the front of the phsyical D2V unit)? I just need to know what I do with this large green block attached to the D2V in regards to a URC receiver.

Thanks for the help,
-Brian
post #41459 of 42717
My MRF-350 came with a cable with a 3.5mm on one end and bare wires on the other, I would think that "should" work, but I haven't dug into it to try it on my 50V (I was lazy and just stuck a blaster to the front).
post #41460 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

URC remote integration question - guys, I just got a new MX-5000 and an MRX-1 from URC and want to start controlling all my devices in a more streamlined, "clean" way. Many of my components have 3.5mm IR Inputs on the rear panel for directly connecting to a controller like the MRX-1. Case in point, my Oppo 95. The question is how best to do this with the D2V? There are some IR "Receivers" on the rear of the D2V, but they are in that large green block thing, not a normal 3.5mm input like the Oppo. I do know that the D2V allows you to set IR Inputs in the menu, but first I need to conquer the physical cabling issue. I'm sure the D2V has a workable method here, I'm just struggling to figure out what that would be. I know it also has IR "Emitters", and those are 3.5mm indeed, but they aren't the right solution, as they are for blasting IR outbound, not for receiving IR commands inbound, correct??

Anybody have a URC MRX-1 or the older MSC-400 and using direct IR connections to the D2V (ie, NOT with a simple IR blaster stuck to the front of the phsyical D2V unit)? I just need to know what I do with this large green block attached to the D2V in regards to a URC receiver.

Thanks for the help,
-Brian


Why don't you use RS232 for your OPPO and D2.v It works great, I use a MSC-400 with NO problems. With IR there are issues that can occur. RS232 is more Bullet proof.
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