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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1383

post #41461 of 42682
To use the green plug (IR receiver) on the back of the D2v see this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/678260/anthem-d2-d2v-avm50-avm50v-arc1-tweaking-guide/38730#post_22531992
post #41462 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

URC remote integration question - guys, I just got a new MX-5000 and an MRX-1 from URC and want to start controlling all my devices in a more streamlined, "clean" way. Many of my components have 3.5mm IR Inputs on the rear panel for directly connecting to a controller like the MRX-1. Case in point, my Oppo 95. The question is how best to do this with the D2V? There are some IR "Receivers" on the rear of the D2V, but they are in that large green block thing, not a normal 3.5mm input like the Oppo. I do know that the D2V allows you to set IR Inputs in the menu, but first I need to conquer the physical cabling issue. I'm sure the D2V has a workable method here, I'm just struggling to figure out what that would be. I know it also has IR "Emitters", and those are 3.5mm indeed, but they aren't the right solution, as they are for blasting IR outbound, not for receiving IR commands inbound, correct??

Anybody have a URC MRX-1 or the older MSC-400 and using direct IR connections to the D2V (ie, NOT with a simple IR blaster stuck to the front of the phsyical D2V unit)? I just need to know what I do with this large green block attached to the D2V in regards to a URC receiver.

Thanks for the help,
-Brian


1-take out green block on the back of the Anthem--it pulls out, you might have to wiggle a little but it is not screwed in.
2- if you don't have the cable with the bare wires already, take one of the other cables and cut off the blaster end. Then separate and strip the 2 wires.
3- there are 4 little screw holes on the green block. On one end is the ground. on the other end is IR#1. Attach one of the bare wires to the ground, the other to the #1.
4- Go into the setup menu to 11E--SET IR INPUTS. Follow the instructions to turn off the FRONT IR and turn on REAR IR #1.
5-test the remote.
6- If it doesn't work switch the cables in the little green box and try again. You have 1 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time. If you did get it right the first time treat your self to a PowerBall ticket.biggrin.gif

Remember that once you turn off the FRONT IR in the menu you may need to use the front panel buttons to navigate the setup menu.


Tom
post #41463 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donloz View Post

Why don't you use RS232 for your OPPO and D2.v It works great, I use a MSC-400 with NO problems. With IR there are issues that can occur. RS232 is more Bullet proof.

I can't use RS-232 for either one, as the MRX-1 only gives you 2 RS-232 ports, and they will be used by A) Lutron RadioRA2 lighting repeater and B) An application that I cannot discuss without violating an NDA :-)

That leaves RF-to-IR (using RFX-250 tied to the MRX-1) and IP Control for everything else. There shouldn't be any problems with IR using Rear dedicated ports (as opposed to front ports that may or may not get the old-fashioned 'blaster' signal that I've been using for 8 years with limited success in my sun-filled room).

-Brian
post #41464 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post

1-take out green block on the back of the Anthem--it pulls out, you might have to wiggle a little but it is not screwed in.
2- if you don't have the cable with the bare wires already, take one of the other cables and cut off the blaster end. Then separate and strip the 2 wires.
3- there are 4 little screw holes on the green block. On one end is the ground. on the other end is IR#1. Attach one of the bare wires to the ground, the other to the #1.
4- Go into the setup menu to 11E--SET IR INPUTS. Follow the instructions to turn off the FRONT IR and turn on REAR IR #1.
5-test the remote.
6- If it doesn't work switch the cables in the little green box and try again. You have 1 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time. If you did get it right the first time treat your self to a PowerBall ticket.biggrin.gif

Remember that once you turn off the FRONT IR in the menu you may need to use the front panel buttons to navigate the setup menu.


Tom

Thanks a ton Tom!!

I read your old post on this topic as well, should be a snap. Just glad to know that I don't need to go out and buy yet another cable! There's been way too much of that lately :-)

Cheers,
-B
post #41465 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post

Hi. I have a D2 that I've been struggling with some HDMI-related issues. It's hooked up to a Verizon DVR (newer version) and connected using Monoprice Redmere cables. Verizon output is supposed to be 1920/1080i/60. There's something odd happening on power-up as described below. Maybe someone can shed some light here.

In the first image, you can see the video is not centered or full screen. The D2's video output is smaller than the full TV screen, and offset to the lower right corner (black bars above and on left side). Plus, the video signal input is an odd combination which doesn't seem possible from the Verizon box? The D2 thinks it's seeing:
2048/1115i/60, as reported on the screen



Closer shot of the D2 information screen


Switching sources or going into setup pops it back to the right size image (and settings). There's no options to modify output of the cable box. Other sources thru the D2 work fine and come out looking normal. Once the image is full size, it doesn't shift sizes.

Any idea what's happening here?

Thanks

So months later, I think we have found the culprit for all of this odd behavior (see other note refereneced above). The problem is NOT the Anthem. It's the Sony XBR9. Anthem service suspected that this may be the case, and I swapped out another Sony TV (non-XBR) and had the same problem. however, on a Samsung F6400 the Anthem works perfectly. Ditto on an HDMI computer monitor (Acer). So there is something that is fishy about the HDMI handshake between the Anthem D2 and the Sony TV's.......

So my fix is to live with the XBR9 and everytime I power it up, change the source once booted, let it settle, and change it back to the Verizon FIOS box. Then it's perfect. If I get more time to waste on this, I'll investigate the FIOS box more (or try swapping in a non-DVR STB).....
post #41466 of 42682
This is almost certainly a handshake error, possibly related to the handshake taking place before all the devices have fully powered up. Try powering up the display first, then wait, then the Anthem, then wait, then select the FIOS input.

A long shot is that your display may work better if you switch to the alternate HDMI Sync choice in the D2's Video Output Configuration. You may lose video if that doesn't help, if so, switch back using the Front Panel to view/change the setting.
--Bob
post #41467 of 42682
I have the same problem with loud "screeching" noise using the xbox via HDMI to my 50v that was always solved by cycling to another input and returning - I did some troubleshooting last night and I think I solved the problem by turning Off the EDID search in the xbox video settings. Will post again if this solution turns out to not have worked, but preliminary testing seems to indicate that it solved the problem which has pleased my 7 year old son greatly as the noise was extremely annoying.

In general, as others have posted here many times, it appears that the best way to setup inputs on bopth sides of the connections is to turn off all "auto" discovery mechanisms and set the explicit settings that you want. Dreaming of the day that the HDMI spec gets thrown out and something that actually works is developed.

Dave
post #41468 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

This is almost certainly a handshake error, possibly related to the handshake taking place before all the devices have fully powered up. Try powering up the display first, then wait, then the Anthem, then wait, then select the FIOS input.

A long shot is that your display may work better if you switch to the alternate HDMI Sync choice in the D2's Video Output Configuration. You may lose video if that doesn't help, if so, switch back using the Front Panel to view/change the setting.
--Bob

Hi Bob. Thanks again for making suggestions on how to get this working properly.

Neither of these make a difference, and I tried both (and tried the power-up sequencing a lot of different ways, repeatedly).

The ONLY thing that forces the image to the correct resolution and size is to switch the source input on the D2 after everything is up and running. And by switch the inputs, I mean you must wait for the image to settle down, then switch back to the cable box source. I am using the "TV" source, which unless the TV is outputting something from the internet (since cable input is via the D2) produces a very nice pattern of vertical blue bars across the screen. Once I see that, I switch back to the cable box running through the D2 and it ALWAYS fills the screen at the desired resolution.

No amount of HDMI cable swapping affects this. Once in maybe 20 power cycles the image comes up correctly from a cold start.

But as I mentioned above, changing out the Sony brand smart TV (XBR or a newer, lesser model of Sony TV, both of which behave exactly the same way), seems to be the only fix. So I am now thinking that Anthem is right that there's something different with the way Sony has done their HDMI since the Anthem D2 struggles with it so much. I was also struck by the speed at which the Anthem put the correct image up on the Samsung f6400 I had in the house for a week or two. The D2/Sammy combo worked perfectly.
post #41469 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveBoswell View Post

I have the same problem with loud "screeching" noise using the xbox via HDMI to my 50v that was always solved by cycling to another input and returning - I did some troubleshooting last night and I think I solved the problem by turning Off the EDID search in the xbox video settings. Will post again if this solution turns out to not have worked, but preliminary testing seems to indicate that it solved the problem which has pleased my 7 year old son greatly as the noise was extremely annoying.

In general, as others have posted here many times, it appears that the best way to setup inputs on bopth sides of the connections is to turn off all "auto" discovery mechanisms and set the explicit settings that you want. Dreaming of the day that the HDMI spec gets thrown out and something that actually works is developed.

Dave

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post

Hi Bob. Thanks again for making suggestions on how to get this working properly.

Neither of these make a difference, and I tried both (and tried the power-up sequencing a lot of different ways, repeatedly).

The ONLY thing that forces the image to the correct resolution and size is to switch the source input on the D2 after everything is up and running. And by switch the inputs, I mean you must wait for the image to settle down, then switch back to the cable box source. I am using the "TV" source, which unless the TV is outputting something from the internet (since cable input is via the D2) produces a very nice pattern of vertical blue bars across the screen. Once I see that, I switch back to the cable box running through the D2 and it ALWAYS fills the screen at the desired resolution.

No amount of HDMI cable swapping affects this. Once in maybe 20 power cycles the image comes up correctly from a cold start.

But as I mentioned above, changing out the Sony brand smart TV (XBR or a newer, lesser model of Sony TV, both of which behave exactly the same way), seems to be the only fix. So I am now thinking that Anthem is right that there's something different with the way Sony has done their HDMI since the Anthem D2 struggles with it so much. I was also struck by the speed at which the Anthem put the correct image up on the Samsung f6400 I had in the house for a week or two. The D2/Sammy combo worked perfectly.

Anthem may be correct that some manufacturers do things differently but those manufacturers are following the HDMI firmware rules.
It is Anthem's responsibility to get those additional changes needed to improve their HDMI output. Nothing less will be sufficient.
Sony tvs don't work ? Then Anthem needs to obtain a Sony tv in their lab and fix the problem. A certain cable box doesn't work ? Then Anthem buy one and determine what the problem is.
Denon, Pioneer, Sony and other companies are not experiencing these HDMI connection problems.
Thousands of cable boxes and Sony tvs are on the market and being interfaced properly with other AVR or PrePros.
Anthem will be left behind if they continue this avenue of thinking.
And we all contribute to it by buying into their lame excuses and putting up with the problems.

Flame me if you want,but I feel Anthem is doing a copout and we allow it to continue
post #41470 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

I can't use RS-232 for either one, as the MRX-1 only gives you 2 RS-232 ports, and they will be used by A) Lutron RadioRA2 lighting repeater and B) An application that I cannot discuss without violating an NDA :-)

That leaves RF-to-IR (using RFX-250 tied to the MRX-1) and IP Control for everything else. There shouldn't be any problems with IR using Rear dedicated ports (as opposed to front ports that may or may not get the old-fashioned 'blaster' signal that I've been using for 8 years with limited success in my sun-filled room).

-Brian

Actually, strike that. Your idea piqued my interest in this. It appears that I *may* be able to get some feedback via RS-232 (using my MX-5000's '2-way RS-232 support' as opposed to IR, which has no feedback of course. For this and other equipment reasons, I've decided to get a second MRX-1 and daisy chain it to the first one. Among other things, this will give me 2 more RS-232 ports! So the 8 million dollar question is this in regards to the Anthem - is anybody using RS-232 with the D2 or AVM series, and how well does it work compared to IR?? You should at least be able to get Volume, Power status, Mute, Input, and Mode indicators on the screen of the MX-5000 remote or other 2-way RS-232 devices, if my understanding is correct.

Thoughts??
post #41471 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post

Hi Bob. Thanks again for making suggestions on how to get this working properly.

Neither of these make a difference, and I tried both (and tried the power-up sequencing a lot of different ways, repeatedly).

The ONLY thing that forces the image to the correct resolution and size is to switch the source input on the D2 after everything is up and running. And by switch the inputs, I mean you must wait for the image to settle down, then switch back to the cable box source. I am using the "TV" source, which unless the TV is outputting something from the internet (since cable input is via the D2) produces a very nice pattern of vertical blue bars across the screen. Once I see that, I switch back to the cable box running through the D2 and it ALWAYS fills the screen at the desired resolution.

No amount of HDMI cable swapping affects this. Once in maybe 20 power cycles the image comes up correctly from a cold start.

But as I mentioned above, changing out the Sony brand smart TV (XBR or a newer, lesser model of Sony TV, both of which behave exactly the same way), seems to be the only fix. So I am now thinking that Anthem is right that there's something different with the way Sony has done their HDMI since the Anthem D2 struggles with it so much. I was also struck by the speed at which the Anthem put the correct image up on the Samsung f6400 I had in the house for a week or two. The D2/Sammy combo worked perfectly.

Have you checked on the Sony website to see if there is a firmware update for your model ??

What firmware are you running on your D2 ?? If you are using v1.33 then contact Anthem tech for the link and password to their beta website. When I had my D2 I used v1.47f because it was much more stable, especially with hdmi switching.

Tom
Edited by tngiloy - 8/28/13 at 1:15pm
post #41472 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

is anybody using RS-232 with the D2 or AVM series, and how well does it work compared to IR?? Y

Thoughts??

As a 3D Projector Owner - I had to use RS-232 with my D2.

With 3D IR control - Nothing works when the PJ is flooding the screen with IR.

Of Course I use a REAL Control System.

Crestron - It has 8 RS-232 ports and Infinite Control

My D2 is NOT 3D Compatible so getting everything to work was the MAGIC only
a Crestron can do. Luckly - I am a Crestron Programmer.

Hank
post #41473 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post

Have you checked on the Sony website to see if there is a firmware update for your model ??

What firmware are you running on your D2 ?? If you are using v1.33 then contact Anthem tech for the link and password to their beta website. When I had my D2 I used v1.47f because it was much more stable, especially with hdmi switching.

Tom

I'm running 1.47f on the D2.

The XBR is fully updated (connected all the time).
post #41474 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post


Anthem may be correct that some manufacturers do things differently but those manufacturers are following the HDMI firmware rules.
It is Anthem's responsibility to get those additional changes needed to improve their HDMI output. Nothing less will be sufficient.
Sony tvs don't work ? Then Anthem needs to obtain a Sony tv in their lab and fix the problem. A certain cable box doesn't work ? Then Anthem buy one and determine what the problem is.
Denon, Pioneer, Sony and other companies are not experiencing these HDMI connection problems.
Thousands of cable boxes and Sony tvs are on the market and being interfaced properly with other AVR or PrePros.
Anthem will be left behind if they continue this avenue of thinking.
And we all contribute to it by buying into their lame excuses and putting up with the problems.

Flame me if you want,but I feel Anthem is doing a copout and we allow it to continue


+10
THX
post #41475 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post


Flame me if you want,but I feel Anthem is doing a copout and we allow it to continue

Where is the FLAME BUTTON?

That is why we HAVE Standards - as someone who has created from SCRATCH
Many Standards over the last 30 years - I need a FLAME BUTTON for Stew.

Hank mad.gifmad.gifmad.gifmad.gifmad.gif
post #41476 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

Actually, strike that. Your idea piqued my interest in this. It appears that I *may* be able to get some feedback via RS-232 (using my MX-5000's '2-way RS-232 support' as opposed to IR, which has no feedback of course. For this and other equipment reasons, I've decided to get a second MRX-1 and daisy chain it to the first one. Among other things, this will give me 2 more RS-232 ports! So the 8 million dollar question is this in regards to the Anthem - is anybody using RS-232 with the D2 or AVM series, and how well does it work compared to IR?? You should at least be able to get Volume, Power status, Mute, Input, and Mode indicators on the screen of the MX-5000 remote or other 2-way RS-232 devices, if my understanding is correct.

Thoughts??


I have a D2 with the MSC-400 with RS232 on it and OPPO 105. Both units are Bullet Proof. No comparison to IR. The only concern is Ramp speed on the volume, you just have to adjust it, On the D2 you have a couple hundred other macro points you can add. I wish ALL other components would support RS232 ( cable boxes, TV's ) On another note, How do you like the 5000?
post #41477 of 42682
I haven't played yet with the MX-5000, just got it actually - the power awaits! I'm starting to program today in fact! Donloz, what remote(s) do you use, and do they support 2-way feedback from RS-232?? That's the killer app for me. I'm wondering if anyone is getting the status feedback back from the RS-232 commands to their remote or keypad or whatever...be it URC, Crestron, AMX, whatever...I just need to know if it is indeed possible with the D2 or D2V or AVM's specifically. Of course, by about 2am tonight, I may know the answer myself, but just thought I'd ask if there's some trick to getting that feedback. I have NO doubt that RS-232 will work with the D2V, just not sure the 2-way communication will work. I"ll let ya know tonight how I make out, and how I like the new MX-5000 and MRX-1 combo! The second MRX-1 is on the way for tomorrow. Supposedly I'll be able to get feedback from the Oppo 95 as well via RS-232, like a scrub bar indicator, and time elapsed, track numbers, etc. right on my MX-5000 handheld remote, so we'll see! God I love automation - just had some Hunter Douglas motorized shades installed in the Main zone, and Lutron RadioRA2 lighting, with scenes and all...should be a crazy programming experience, coming from the old MX-950 software! AHHHHHH!!! URC doesn't make it easy, but the finished product usually rocks! [Sorry Hank, Crestron is not in the cards for me!]

Thanks guys,
-Brian
post #41478 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

I haven't played yet with the MX-5000, just got it actually - the power awaits! I'm starting to program today in fact! Donloz, what remote(s) do you use, and do they support 2-way feedback from RS-232?? That's the killer app for me. I'm wondering if anyone is getting the status feedback back from the RS-232 commands to their remote or keypad or whatever...be it URC, Crestron, AMX, whatever...I just need to know if it is indeed possible with the D2 or D2V or AVM's specifically. Of course, by about 2am tonight, I may know the answer myself, but just thought I'd ask if there's some trick to getting that feedback. I have NO doubt that RS-232 will work with the D2V, just not sure the 2-way communication will work. I"ll let ya know tonight how I make out, and how I like the new MX-5000 and MRX-1 combo! The second MRX-1 is on the way for tomorrow. Supposedly I'll be able to get feedback from the Oppo 95 as well via RS-232, like a scrub bar indicator, and time elapsed, track numbers, etc. right on my MX-5000 handheld remote, so we'll see! God I love automation - just had some Hunter Douglas motorized shades installed in the Main zone, and Lutron RadioRA2 lighting, with scenes and all...should be a crazy programming experience, coming from the old MX-950 software! AHHHHHH!!! URC doesn't make it easy, but the finished product usually rocks! [Sorry Hank, Crestron is not in the cards for me!]

Thanks guys,
-Brian

Crestron handles two way RS-232 - but I find no NEED for two way.

One way works fine if you have a one-way display controller.

There are two-way crestron displays that you can do all kind of WILD
Displays with. I only use one-way.

FYI - My Crestron System COSTS LESS than your MX-5000 SYSTEM.
I will BET MONEY on that.
post #41479 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

Where is the FLAME BUTTON?

That is why we HAVE Standards - as someone who has created from SCRATCH
Many Standards over the last 30 years - I need a FLAME BUTTON for Stew.

Hank mad.gifmad.gifmad.gifmad.gifmad.gif

Hank

Why do you want to Flame me ?

It is Anthem not following the standards. Anthem has a responsibility to keep the changing HDMI standards up to date.
Providing they even get them right to start with. My argument starts with this.
You buy a $500 dollar Denon or Marantz etc and everything works, Sony XBR, Motorola cable box, Comcast cable box etc.
You buy a $8000 Anthem and maybe some of them work.
And this makes it even worse.
My Sony XBR works with the D2v
Both my Comcast cable boxes work. Why mine work and others do not ? Luck of the draw ?
Same reason maybe why firmware updates don't always work.
Then there is the inherent Anthem attitude. Maybe it will work or maybe it won't work not our fault, try a work-a -round.
Edited by thestewman - 8/28/13 at 3:30pm
post #41480 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestewman View Post

Hank

Why do you want to Flame me ?

It is Anthem not following the standards. Anthem has a responsibility to keep the changing HDMI standards up to date.
Providing they even get them right to start with. My argument starts with this.
You buy a $500 dollar Denon or Marantz etc and everything works, Sony XBR, Motorola cable box, Comcast cable box etc.
You buy a $8000 Anthem and maybe some of them work. And that makes it even worse. My Sony XBR works with thw D2v
Both my Comcast cable boxes work. Why mine work and others do not ? Same reason why firmware updates don't always work.
There is an inherent Anthem attitude. Maybe it will work or maybe it won't work if not try a work-a -round.

Everyone - has a HDMI Standard Test RIG these days.

Anthem - like everyone else uses Industry Standard CHIPS.

I think you are being UNFAIR about OLD EQUIPMENT that preceded Industry Standards.

MRX equipment is up to date.

I am still running a D2 - not a D2v and I have never had a problem.
post #41481 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

I haven't played yet with the MX-5000, just got it actually - the power awaits! I'm starting to program today in fact! Donloz, what remote(s) do you use, and do they support 2-way feedback from RS-232?? That's the killer app for me. I'm wondering if anyone is getting the status feedback back from the RS-232 commands to their remote or keypad or whatever...be it URC, Crestron, AMX, whatever...I just need to know if it is indeed possible with the D2 or D2V or AVM's specifically. Of course, by about 2am tonight, I may know the answer myself, but just thought I'd ask if there's some trick to getting that feedback. I have NO doubt that RS-232 will work with the D2V, just not sure the 2-way communication will work. I"ll let ya know tonight how I make out, and how I like the new MX-5000 and MRX-1 combo! The second MRX-1 is on the way for tomorrow. Supposedly I'll be able to get feedback from the Oppo 95 as well via RS-232, like a scrub bar indicator, and time elapsed, track numbers, etc. right on my MX-5000 handheld remote, so we'll see! God I love automation - just had some Hunter Douglas motorized shades installed in the Main zone, and Lutron RadioRA2 lighting, with scenes and all...should be a crazy programming experience, coming from the old MX-950 software! AHHHHHH!!! URC doesn't make it easy, but the finished product usually rocks! [Sorry Hank, Crestron is not in the cards for me!]

Thanks guys,
-Brian



Yes please let me ( us ) know if TWO way works with the D2. I am hesitant that it will work, but you never know until you try. I use the MX-980 and I have no memory left, not even for one more button. This is why I am interested in another remote. H/T, A/C, 4 Lutron-URC light zones, Killer graphics, eats up memory quick.
post #41482 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post

I'm running 1.47f on the D2.

The XBR is fully updated (connected all the time).

Too bad. Hope you figure it out so you don't have to do a work around every time you start up.

Tom
post #41483 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post

Too bad. Hope you figure it out so you don't have to do a work around every time you start up.

Tom

I'm at a loss as to what to try at this point. I've spent hours and hours on this, and no solution. I agree with other posters that for the money, this should be working just fine.

As for the comments about "old" equipment, let's keep this in perspective.

The D2 came out in 2006.
The XBR9 came out in 2009, so it's not like we're talking about generations of difference here in HDMI technology.

The only other thing is that there seems to be something else wrong with the D2 in that I cannot access the boot loader to try to change the firmware version. Anthem is ambiguous about why that might be the case. Maybe hardware issue, maybe not. But they don't seem to think I have anything going on that they can fix. So I stand with the others in concluding that they have not adequately supported the HDMI for Sony. But surely I'm not the only one that's seen this problem? Where are the rest of you folks with Sony/D2 issues?
eek.gif
post #41484 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

Everyone - has a HDMI Standard Test RIG these days.

Anthem - like everyone else uses Industry Standard CHIPS.

I think you are being UNFAIR about OLD EQUIPMENT that preceded Industry Standards.

MRX equipment is up to date.

I am still running a D2 - not a D2v and I have never had a problem.

Truthfully Dr
I have never had a HDMI problem. I have a D2v 3D.
What I am commenting about is my experience with their tech people on some other issues and reading here about the continuous HDMI problems.
post #41485 of 42682
bigdaddy999,
Anthem recommends you do NOT use v1.47f firmware. It fixed problems with a couple of oddball TVs but was not good for general use.

Try rolling back to v1.33 -- the Official firmware for the D2.
--Bob
post #41486 of 42682
thestewman,
Anthem has apparently discovered they can't fix everybody else's bugs. The bug makers are too ingenious. As best I can tell ALL the big brand AVR makers and ALL the high end pre pro makers have cases where they throw up their hands and give up. They tend to be DIFFERENT cases, but they all have had to deal with the reality that HDMI is a mess when you are faced with the entire universe of devices out there.
--Bob
post #41487 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveBoswell View Post

I have the same problem with loud "screeching" noise using the xbox via HDMI to my 50v that was always solved by cycling to another input and returning - I did some troubleshooting last night and I think I solved the problem by turning Off the EDID search in the xbox video settings. Will post again if this solution turns out to not have worked, but preliminary testing seems to indicate that it solved the problem which has pleased my 7 year old son greatly as the noise was extremely annoying.

In general, as others have posted here many times, it appears that the best way to setup inputs on bopth sides of the connections is to turn off all "auto" discovery mechanisms and set the explicit settings that you want. Dreaming of the day that the HDMI spec gets thrown out and something that actually works is developed.

Dave

That didn't work for me. In fact, dozens of other things I did didn't work for me. I did find two methods that reliably work though. One was setting the Xbox to just output 2 channel audio and the other which I'm using now, is to go back to software version 2.10 on my 50V. My 50V doesn't have the 3D upgrade and is an older model that needs more than the HDMI board for the 3D upgrade.
post #41488 of 42682
There is testing available for HDMI but MOST manufacturers do not send in their equipment for testing. There is a list of product that have been tested but it doesn't get updated often, I'm not sure if you can call and ask.
http://www.digital-cp.com/hdcp_products

Some manufacturers routinely send in products like Yamaha, Sony and Panasonic but it is convenient for some of them that have authorized test facilities at one of their locations like Sony and Panasonic. You may criticize Anthem for not sending it in but even BIG companies like LG, Samsung, Motorola and other cable/ Sat box companies don't get all their products certified. They are often the brands we have to try and integrate. So even if you use a Yamaha receiver and Sony TV it does not mean you will not have problems. If it was mandatory for manufacturers to send in their equipment we would see a LOT lest problems but equipment would cost more.

Here are the test facilities.
http://www.digital-cp.com/compliance/hdmi_testing_facilities

BTW these facilities don't test just HDCP, HDMI qualities get tested as well. I do give Anthem credit for trying to make firmware that works with some of this not certified equipment. Try to get Motorola or one of these other big companies to do that.
post #41489 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieU View Post

That didn't work for me. In fact, dozens of other things I did didn't work for me. I did find two methods that reliably work though. One was setting the Xbox to just output 2 channel audio and the other which I'm using now, is to go back to software version 2.10 on my 50V. My 50V doesn't have the 3D upgrade and is an older model that needs more than the HDMI board for the 3D upgrade.

Another method is to run optical out of the Xbox, Tens of millions of Xbox owners out there, good thing they all don't have a D2v.
post #41490 of 42682
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

bigdaddy999,
Anthem recommends you do NOT use v1.47f firmware. It fixed problems with a couple of oddball TVs but was not good for general use.

Try rolling back to v1.33 -- the Official firmware for the D2.
--Bob

The unit was in to Anthem in February for an HDMI repair. I am pretty certain they updated the firmware to 1.47f at the time from 1.33, and that's what is on the D2.

I tried to downgrade the software using an XP laptop with a serial connection. Got a boot loader error, and Anthem said that's a problem separate from any HDMI processing issue. I don't know if I need to use the Keyspan USB/Serial Adapter to do this, or if there's actually a problem with the D2 preventing me from being able to downgrade, but that's where things stand. I can access ARC via that connection just fine.

In April, Anthem said, in response to the error: "Cannot connect to OKI Boot Loader"

Anthem response: "OKI bootloader means there is something actually wrong with the unit."

But then this month, when I mentioned that the unit had the loader error after trying a lot of other things, I got this response, which we'd covered months ago in the same email thread. Makes no difference. Note the reference to V1.33

"It could be many things.
Once thing I can suggest is a REDMERE cable.
They seem to work great for handshake issues.

V1.33 may not correct the issue.
Usually 1.47f is used when there are handshake issues.

They also recommended Redmere cables, which I'm using. No change.

Very frustrating.
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