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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 1395

post #41821 of 42681
Quote:
Originally Posted by porschetech View Post

This thing is giving me a headache

PorscheTech huh? You should be used to these kinds of headaches :-) Seriously though, if you were an Audi tech, you'd have an old PC with an actual serial port to use VAGCOM or other scanner tools - and that same PC would be your solution for the D2V too, so you don't have to mess with adapters and drivers. [Though I guess they do make USB variants of that now]. Got me an old laptop that is used solely for serial applications like these. I can tune my turbo and my D2V with the same weapon! Imagine that - technology from the 60's that still works today (if only PC manufacturers left the damn serial ports on computers like the good Lord intended). Oh well...just remember, DO NOT try and use a Null Modem cable - you need a straight through serial cable. Simple as they come, all pins straight thru. Good luck to you sir!
post #41822 of 42681
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post

you'd have an old PC with an actual serial port to use VAGCOM or other scanner tools - and that same PC would be your solution for the D2V too, so you don't have to mess with adapters and drivers. [Though I guess they do make USB variants of that now]. Got me an old laptop that is used solely for serial applications like these. I can tune my turbo and my D2V with the same weapon! Imagine that - technology from the 60's that still works today (if only PC manufacturers left the damn serial ports on computers like the good Lord intended).
LOL, I was thinking the same thing. Used to run VAGCOM, had to upgrade to HEXUSB but Anthem and Lumagen still use RS-232.
Got a couple old Dell Latitude laptops kicking around, but if I ever decide to buy brand new it will be an HP Elitebook - still made today with a serial port!
Edited by AVfile - 10/12/13 at 9:31pm
post #41823 of 42681
Thanks all the advice and tips. I managed to find a USB to serial cable at frys electronics. Bestbuy was a joke as they had very little knowledge about this type of cable. Anyways finally got he laptop to see my new cable and I'm now 15 mins into flashing the D2v. At this rate I think I'm gonna be here for another hour. This was going to be my last attempt to fix this. Otherwise it's going straight to anthem. I'll make sure seller foots the bill too.

Manwithaplan........yeps, Porsche tech here. Been working on cars for 25 yrs now. Hopefully next month I'll be gold meister. No vagcoms, but I know Audi and vdub uses em. I use Porsche piwis or PS2 testers. I know how frustrating it is flashing cars at work, but never expected this for a piece of HT equipment.

Fingers crossed!..... .....just got to 3rd segment. This is slooooooow progress.
Edited by porschetech - 10/12/13 at 10:18pm
post #41824 of 42681
Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post


I thought Anthem was including the Keyspan adapter with the D2v.
Before you buy or order one I suggest you check thru the D2v box to make sure you don't already have one. Its small enough that you may have missed it when unpacking the D2v.

Tom

Good to know. I saw no keyspan in the box. I'll ask seller about it or anthem
post #41825 of 42681
^ Depends how old your used D2v is. Anthem did not have a resale agreement for the Keyspan when the D2v first shipped. If your used unit came with its original, paper manual, there's an included items list near the front.
--Bob
post #41826 of 42681
Over an hour and not even 1/2 way yet!


Success!!........on screen text back and D2v 3D now displays on pre/pro when powering up. No to see if the rest of the features works. Thanks to everyone here for making this work. I really appreciate the help smile.gif
Edited by porschetech - 10/13/13 at 8:56am
post #41827 of 42681
anyone here have an anthem P5? i may look into getting one. was wondering if there's a massive difference between that an an A5 (which i have). from what i've read online, if you can get one, then jump on it
post #41828 of 42681
^ Make sure you've got enough wall power amperage to power it. Expect to need an extra circuit.
--Bob
post #41829 of 42681
Quote:
Originally Posted by porschetech View Post

Over an hour and not even 1/2 way yet!


Success!!........on screen text back and D2v 3D now displays on pre/pro when powering up. No to see if the rest of the features works. Thanks to everyone here for making this work. I really appreciate the help smile.gif

Cool! Be sure to let the dealer know that what they told you about having ALREADY done the firmware install was, umm, incorrect....

So how long did the install end up taking? It's possible that non-Keyspan adapter you were using was defaulting to a lower baud rate.
--Bob
post #41830 of 42681
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ Make sure you've got enough wall power amperage to power it. Expect to need an extra circuit.
--Bob

And the physical space. IMO the P5 is too big and the A5 is just right.
post #41831 of 42681
Wow so that P5 is a waste? Too big and dual outlets required? I can't run 2 power cords from the Panamax to the amp?

Bob yeah it took a while. Possibly down to my hard drive acting up
post #41832 of 42681
It's a great amp by all accounts. You just have to be prepared for the installation requirements.

You can't magically suck more amperage out of the Panamax than the wall circuit can provide. In fact, almost certainly less as the Panamax will impose its own limit.
--Bob
post #41833 of 42681
I have the space to install it. Now I'm wondering how much bigger is it to the A5? So who has 2 seperate circuits in their home? Seems a bit much to power up an amp. I should ask the seller how they made it work.
post #41834 of 42681
Quote:
Originally Posted by porschetech View Post

I have the space to install it. Now I'm wondering how much bigger is it to the A5? So who has 2 seperate circuits in their home? Seems a bit much to power up an amp. I should ask the seller how they made it work.
The P5 has two power cords, and it's recommended to have it run off of a dedicated 30 amp outlet. I have heard some folks say that they are getting by with running it off of a 20 amp outlet; but, it can reach up to 3600 watts when really pushed which would be too much for a 20 amp outlet to handle. If you plan to listen at reasonable levels, then a 20 amp outlet would probably be ok.
post #41835 of 42681
As of now I have no reason to push the amp harder than normal, but it would be nice to have on tap and hopefully way more than enough juice for a future upgrade to sig 8's (v2......v3 too rich for my blood).

If I were to purchase the P5, would $2000 be a fair market price for the A5?
post #41836 of 42681
$2000 would be a fair price for the A5 like new in box. I paid $2200 for mine 3 years ago.

But I would keep it and add a P2 for the main fronts, then you could do 7.1 and no funky power outlets needed.
Edited by AVfile - 10/14/13 at 10:28pm
post #41837 of 42681
I actually have a mca20 that I could use. I put it up for sale on my local Craigslist and not much traffic lately. I also listed a seismic 10 and a pair of studio 20v4's.......no takers.
post #41838 of 42681
I just recently purchase a subwoofer, which has its own room correction system. Is there any advantage of first using the subwoofers own room correction and then use arc, vs just simply using arc?
post #41839 of 42681
Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzalc3 View Post

I just recently purchase a subwoofer, which has its own room correction system. Is there any advantage of first using the subwoofers own room correction and then use arc, vs just simply using arc?

Christian,

The answer is a definite maybe. It all depends on how much correction is needed for your subwoofer. ARC is able to correct a lot of problems, but the less it has to correct the better it will work.
I would be willing to bet that most of the people on this thread use both ARC and their sub's own room correction.

But the first thing you need to do is to get your sub positioned properly before adding any room correction.

To do that I would first use the Quick Measure feature in the ARC tools to set up the subwoofer in its optimal position without any correction applied. If you can get the QM reading for the sub to look pretty good just by changing its position in your room, then just use ARC.

If, even after repositioning with the QM, there are still some pretty big peaks and dips then try using your sub's own room correction. Then run the ARC QM again, this time with your sub's room correction turned on. If the QM reading is better with the sub's room correction active, then use it in conjunction with ARC.
Hint--- you can use a screen capture tool to take a snapshot of your QM readings. I use Windows Snipping Tool. That way you can look at the before and after charts, and can post your pictures here for further evaluation.

Getting a sub dialed in isn't easy and takes some work. Getting multiple subs dialed in is even more difficult. But by using the Quick Measure tool and some muscle and time (and maybe some room treatments) you should be able to get a really good sounding solution. The time spent getting it right is well worth the hassle.

Post your charts here for help from the knowledgeable posters.

Good luck,
Tom
post #41840 of 42681
I am using JL Audio ARO, Antimode 8033S-II, then ARC...awesome!
post #41841 of 42681
I currently have and use a P5. It is a heavy sucker at 113 lbs. I am using it on a 20 amp circuit utilizing a 10 gauge run directly to the panel. As for size I thought it was the same as the A2 & 5 as it is the same size (not weight) as the P2

In one of the reviews a tester used it without a specific run and had no issues
post #41842 of 42681
i just found out that the P5 is @ 10 yrs old. kinda wonder if its worth buying and how much would anthem charge to service it??
post #41843 of 42681

The inside SURE looks like the BAT (Balanced Audio Technology) amp I have

post #41844 of 42681
Quote:
Originally Posted by porschetech View Post

i just found out that the P5 is @ 10 yrs old. kinda wonder if its worth buying and how much would anthem charge to service it??
I have a p5, driving revel ultima II's. these speakers have dual 8" woofers, per side, and I drove them from a 15 amp (yes, 15 amp c/b with no problems. HOWEVER, I never drove them to the limits that would suck the juice for the neighborhood). Now that I have a dedicated H/T, I am hooked up with two 20amp C/B, dedicated to the amps. I was told by anthem that a 15 amp circuit would be ok so long as i did not try to entertain the neighbors.
Never had a problem. The best way, however, is to have dedicated subs, crossed as to minimize the draw required by the woofers in your prime speakers. (ARC a big help here )
Yes, it is a heavy amp, but a very solid build and generally, coasts thru much of what we show in the theater.
Walt
post #41845 of 42681
Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post

Christian,

The answer is a definite maybe. It all depends on how much correction is needed for your subwoofer. ARC is able to correct a lot of problems, but the less it has to correct the better it will work.
I would be willing to bet that most of the people on this thread use both ARC and their sub's own room correction.

But the first thing you need to do is to get your sub positioned properly before adding any room correction.

To do that I would first use the Quick Measure feature in the ARC tools to set up the subwoofer in its optimal position without any correction applied. If you can get the QM reading for the sub to look pretty good just by changing its position in your room, then just use ARC.

If, even after repositioning with the QM, there are still some pretty big peaks and dips then try using your sub's own room correction. Then run the ARC QM again, this time with your sub's room correction turned on. If the QM reading is better with the sub's room correction active, then use it in conjunction with ARC.
Hint--- you can use a screen capture tool to take a snapshot of your QM readings. I use Windows Snipping Tool. That way you can look at the before and after charts, and can post your pictures here for further evaluation.

Getting a sub dialed in isn't easy and takes some work. Getting multiple subs dialed in is even more difficult. But by using the Quick Measure tool and some muscle and time (and maybe some room treatments) you should be able to get a really good sounding solution. The time spent getting it right is well worth the hassle.

Post your charts here for help from the knowledgeable posters.

Good luck,
Tom

Thanks Tom!

I did took several measures by using a full measurement and found the optimal place.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find a placew ithout a dip but did found the one with the smallest. I will give it a shot with the sub's own correction and then run arc...

My room has been treated...

Cheers,
post #41846 of 42681
Quote:
Originally Posted by porschetech View Post

i just found out that the P5 is @ 10 yrs old. kinda wonder if its worth buying and how much would anthem charge to service it??


I have an almost 20 year old Aragon 8008X5 that is not quite the monster of the P5 (5X 200W @ 8 ohm, 5X 400W at 4 ohm - all channels driven, 107 lbs). I definately do not need more amp than this. I have never found the upper limit of this amp, and I run it off of a dedicated 15A outlet.

I would not feel bad about a 10 year old amp. These things are quite simple inside and can be repaired if ever needed


Ed
post #41847 of 42681
Unless you're driving insane load cells most people will never even approach the upper limits of an amp like the P5. Most people never approach the upper limits of smaller amps. Running an amp on a dedicated circuit never hurts (just taking it off the loop with all the other electronics in your house doesn't hurt) but I'd bet most people's gear could be run from a single 15 amp circuit in nearly every regard. (For the record I have four dedicated 20 amp circuits in my room, but I've never considered myself normal).
post #41848 of 42681
Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzalc3 View Post

Thanks Tom!

I did took several measures by using a full measurement and found the optimal place.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find a placew ithout a dip but did found the one with the smallest. I will give it a shot with the sub's own correction and then run arc...

My room has been treated...

Cheers,

I think probably using both ARC and your sub's room correction together will work out best for you, but its a trial and error thing. How it sounds to you will be the determining factor.

Just a quick suggestion. If you don't want to use the Quick Measure feature (and I really think QM is a beautiful thing) then, while doing trial and error ARC runs to check out sub response, do a 2.1 set-up. Just fronts and sub. This is what I did to save time before the Quick Measure feature was added. Once you decide what you like best, then you can run the full 5.1/7.1 ARC run. I'm pretty sure this was a suggestion I got from Bob P when ARC was new.

Also remember that ARC does not adjust the phase between your sub and other speakers, or set distances for speakers. You will need to do this yourself. I have found the null method found in dmusoke's signature to be very helpful for phase matching sub-front speakers. Good luck.

Tom
post #41849 of 42681
hey.

i am in the need for a streaming thing. I have look on the Dunde HD base. Is there anybody in here that have experience with this one , in combination with AVM50v/D2.

My processor is a avm50v. My dealer have som costumers that have some issues with the Dune HD MAX and the AVM/D2 combination. the purpose is to rip all my Blurays in to a nas server. And stream it from there. A nice cover art. And user friendly. A am NOT a pc orakel. i have a great deal of movies. So it woud bee nice to

get some more space. 600 movies takes some space

Any help/experience will bee appreciated. other surgestions are velcome
post #41850 of 42681
I have the Dune HD Base 3.0 and it works well with the AVM-50v (non-3D). I don't have a huge number of movies, so I rip them full disk in order to have the menus. For storage I have a Synology NAS with 8TB's of Western Digital Red drives. Most of the issues I read about related to the Dune players have to do with the network and the way it handles certain types of file formats. I use the same settings in my 50v for the Dune as I do for my Oppo 103.
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