Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 214

so are you saying that gefen made a product then acknowledges that its a violation of hdmi specs and continues to make a product that does what its saying it shouldnt do? uh boy!!!

Maybe they figured a way around the restriction.
Both Legally and electronically.

What part of the spec? I don't believe it's violating any specs, it's just not functioning properly (which I guess could be construed as violating specs). As long as each point to point connection is adhering to the "HDCP rules" there isn't anything else to "violate" besides correct functionality. HDMI defines a transport path from one end to the other. It seems like the "stuff" between the incoming signal and split-out outputs can't keep up with the high bandwidth and/or degrades the signal.

larry

In the AVM 40 thread they are talking about using this splitter with good results.

http://www.provantage.com/connectgea...2~7CONG01J.htm

The HDMI ORG poster in the HDMI forum here pointed out that HDMI itself actually *DOES* support fan out -- one source to multiple destinations. Presumably there is a protocol for dealing with EDID (acceptable configuration) conflicts when doing that.

The trick is finding products that actually implement that. As with so much of HDMI, it is optional.

However, I'd also point out that the HDMI spec doesn't include HDCP (copy protection) as part of the spec itself. That's tacked on to HDMI by another group. So whether any HDMI fanout product would ALSO work in the face of HDCP issues is yet another story.
--Bob

Where do you guys set crossovers at with your D2? I am running Paradigm C5 & S8's as my LCR's. I have an M&K MX125 sub which badly needs upgraded. Anyhow just curious as to where you set crossovers. Thanks!!

I downloaded 1.11e over the top of 1.11g and it seems to have solved the issue with the tivo. I had 2 friends over last night and tonight and we all thought the picture was more 3D like with the g version in sd,hdtv,dvd and hddvd.

The picture with e version seems somewhat softer around the edges.

I have mine set to 80, the default, and have yet to play with that part yet. I think it could take a month to get this thing set right, but watching and listening to the Eagles Farewell in HDDVD the last 2 nights has been awesome.

I'd be interested in hearing opinions on this as well. It seems that 95% of the discussion in this thread is regarding the video side of the D2, but there is a whole new world out there when it comes to the flexibility of the D2's audio!

I currently have my x-overs set at the default settings (80hz I believe)....which seems to work well. I have two subs in my system, so I doubt I would set the x-0ver any lower than 70hz.

(edit: I see Bill beat me by 2 minutes)

I think the crossover setting is dependent on you
LFE channels.

I have 3 LFE Channels
1) 18Hz to 100Hz
2) 8Hz to 20 Hz
3) 2 HZ to 12Hz

Therefore - I have my crossovers set at 100Hz
even though my main speakers can handle down
to 60 Hz

Mine (AVM50) are set to default at 80.

On a related topic, I watched the intro to Serenity tonight and had the volume a little loud and thought the paint would rattle off the walls. I finally set the max bass output as the OM reccomends and ended up at -30db. I hadn't thought it necessary before now. This seems to provide a safety check to prevent sub damage and is very nice IMO.

I use Vandy 2wq's which are passively crossed to the mains by design so it's technically a 5.0 configuration. The AVM50 does an excellent job of re-routing LFE. It seems the Room Resonance Filter adjustment doesn't function for me though.

There is a link in the first post of this thread to a post reporting on my experiments setting up bass with a Velodyne DD-15 subwoofer and the D2.

----------------------------------

The crossovers are not hard cutoffs. The mains will see sound below the crossover frequency -- gradually attenuated. The sub will see sound above the crossover frequency -- again, gradually attenuated.

The basic rule of thumb, as a starting point, is to set the crossover for the mains no lower than twice the lowest frequency speced for the mains, and to set the crossover for the sub no higher than 1/2 the highest frequency speced for the sub.

80Hz is a good starting point, and the more you vary from 80Hz the more you are likely to run into problems. For example, if you set the crossover too high for the sub, the sub will become "localizeable". I.e., you'll start hearing sound coming from the direction of the sub. A properly setup sub should not be possible to locate. The sound should just fill the room as if from everywhere.

An 80Hz crossover, by the rule of thumb, would work with mains that are rated down at least as far as 40Hz, and a sub rated at least as high as 160Hz.

Be sure to disable any crossover built into the sub itself (or crank it up to its highest frequency to get it out of the way) or it will act on top of the D2's crossover and further attenuate bass.

The D2 gives you lots of flexibility in setting things up. I discuss more of that in the link I mentioned above.
--Bob

I second Nathan_R's good luck. I am also using a Gefen 2x2 HDMI spliter/distributor with my AVM-50 to an LCD and RPTV. So far so good.

Be sure to go through a video calibration pass with your new V1.11e software. It's possible you lost some settings -- particularly in the Video Source Adjust menu -- in the course of the new software install. And it's also possible that the ideal settings for the V1.11g software are not the same as those for the V1.11e software.

That said, there have been unanticipated imaging improvements in previous Anthem software releases. So it is just possible that the V1.11g version really is better. Presumably any such improvments will make it into the final public release version whenever that finally comes out.

Oh, and I'm glad the V1.11e version seems to help with your Tivo S3. That confirms what we've heard from other posters.
--Bob

I tried the 1.11g today and didn't notice much difference from the 1.11e. I really didn't watch but about 20 minutes with the g. I then went to the Alpha 1.12k and I believe the 24fps glitch with the BDP HD1 has been fixed with this version. I watched about 40 minutes total on two different movies tonight without seeing a single glitch. Like LEVESQUE posted earlier, I am also unable to get my XA2 to sync with this version. I'm hoping Nick will get this corrected soon because everything else seems to be working great. This includes my computer the BDP HD1, and my SA 8300 all connected with HDMI and my DVHS decks connected with component.

In this version there are some changes to the menus. Video output has been moved from menu item 8 to menu item 1 and now gives an a/b choice for Video output config 1 and 2. Seems the timings have been changed for the 1080P/24 setting. The RS1 now reports 47.96 vert freq.

This is great news Randall (except for the xa2 issue)! So not only does this fix the stuttering with the HD1 at 1080p/24, but are you saying that it also fixed the problems with HDMI and the SA 8300?!

Rob,
I didn't have any problems with the 8300 before other than it was just a little slow to resync when changing channels. Since I record most of what I watch this wasn't a problem for me. I briefly checked the 8300 with the 1.12k and it seemed like it may be a bit more responsive now but, like I said, I don't channel surf much.

Yesterday I tried a Benq W9000 at 1080p24 from my pioneer BDP-HD1 through the D2. The initial sync was a bit long but after the image was rock solid. Meanwhile, as for the JVC RS1 and the Mit HC5000, I lost the audio on HDMI when using 1080p24.

Well I guess I spoke to soon, last night no flickers, this am the flicker returned watching local news and Today thru tivo.

This sounds to me more and more like a cable problem or a hardware problem with the HDMI circuit at one end or the other. I know you said you have good cables. If you have more than one, try swapping a different one in for your Tivo to D2 connection.

Be careful when removing and inserting cables -- it doesn't hurt to check the plugs and sockets again for damage with a flashlight before plugging anything back in. Power should be off when changing cables -- it is best to disconnect everything from wall power.

I fought a very similar problem to yours last year with my Comcast box. I was convinced it was heat related and I tried all sorts of things with fans that sometimes seemed to help and sometimes didn't. Then, just to prove to myself it WASN'T a cable problem, I changed my cable. Much to my chagrin, that simple change fixed my problems.
--Bob

Fortunately we have people like LEVESQUE around. In case you didn't know, "Danger" is his middle name. (grin!)

LEVESQUE, any word on the biggie here? Proper 480i/60Hz or 1080i/60Hz to 1080p/24Hz conversion?
--Bob

Be sure you have Apply Filter set in the Room Resonance Filter menu. It's easy to forget to turn that on.

Also, if you have Bypass LFE Crossover set in the Speaker Configuration menu, that may disable the resonance filter. I'm not sure about that.
--Bob

How well does the Room Resonance Filter work? What does it do, and what affect does it have?

It works fine. It is a single "parametric" filter applicable to any chosen range below the crossover frequency. "Parametric" means you can set the center frequency of the filter, the width, and the degree of attenuation or depth. You use it for knocking down your most annoying room bass resonance below the crossover frequency.

Setting it up involves taking SPL measurements with your trusty, Radio Shack SPL meter at frequency steps from the crossover down to very low frequency. The test tones in that menu do this for you. Then you look at the results, pick the resonance (unwanted peak) you most want to get rid of, set the filter, and measure again to see if you need to adjust further.
--Bob

Great! Thanks for the explanation Bob.

Yes, very good explanation!

I know there are lots of threads on the usefulness/validity of automated microphone based parametric equalization/calibration, so without getting into that sort of debate:

Does anyone know if Anthem is planning to eventually put out upgrades (D3?) that will allow for multiple points of parametric equalization? Possibly with single/multi-mic input (ie: automatic calibration?). Just curious!

Kal

kal,
There have been numerous hints that Anthem is going to do an upgrade to the D2 for automatic (and manually configurable) Room EQ. This would be free software for the D2 and for a PC, plus a calibrated mic that you would either buy for your own use, or that a dealer/installer would buy for use with multiple customers.

The assumption is that the spare processing power in the D2 would be used to implement this. Thus, the rumors suggest, this upgrade would NOT be available to AVM-50 owners.

There have been hints that, just as with video setup now, some features of this would be available using only the D2. But the full range of features would require use of the PC during setup. Once the results are loaded into the D2, the PC is no longer needed during normal listening.

It is also assumed there will be an "automatic" feature to compete with the other high end AVRs out there, but to get best results would require manual tweaking -- and some willingness to learn the ins and outs of this stuff.

Again, this is all rumor. It is known that Anthem has engineers with special expertise in this area, but nobody is saying when such an upgrade might actually become available.
--Bob

Thanks Bob. Nice summary without me having to go search and read all of the Athem D1/D2 rumour thread. Much appreciated!

The rumours seem completely plausible too (from both an engineering and marketing standpoint).

Time will tell...

Kal