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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 230

post #6871 of 42717
Hey Folks,

I've been using the PS3 as my BD player for some time, direct to the RS1 via switching, then with the D2 with my Cinema500 while my RS1 was away, and now finally have PS3 -> D2 -> RS1.

The 500 was only 720p out of the D2. So I don't know if it's a combination of PS3 v1.8 24p out into the D2 now driving 1080p60 also (vs. 720p) that made it overheat if that was the problem. I hope it is!! I didn't have a chance to use it again yesterday, so now that it's raining out, I'm about to fire it all up and play.
(edit - D2 is running 1.11e)

The D2 was quite warm, so I'm adding a 120mm pc fan overtop to help circulation. The PS3 is on the shelf above, and it's also dumping a lot of heat to the back - the drywall was warm after that movie! I'm going to add a baffle on it to redirect the air upwards away from the equipment also to see if that helps.

I had no issues with the 8300HD -> D2 -> RS1 so I figured it was a heat issue due to warmer weather and the PS3 giving it a workout with the HDMI 1.3 biz and 108024p.

Glad to see Levesque you like the PS3 quality - it's nice too. Are you forcing it to use RGB extended? (that's how I've got it set ATM).

I've got the PS3 going with the PS2->PS3 ir hack with a repeater so it's all hidden and as randman mentioned, it works nicely because you have to go insert the disc to watch it and with auto play on, you insert a BD with it off it powers up and plays it very quickly, then you go over to eject & power off. Done. It cost me like 25$CAN for the bits. (15$ RadioShack for the USB and 9$ EB used for the ir/remote) So I'm happy with the way I've programmed my MX-850 stuff with it. No RS232 of course...

Cheers.
post #6872 of 42717
Here is a picture of my 17" D2. Below is Pioneer 79avi and above is the Roku 2000.
post #6873 of 42717
*looks around wondering where the picture is*
post #6874 of 42717
Ok, so I hooked up a temporary supply for a fan;
http://www.arctic-cooling.com/fans2....4&data=2&disc=

I noticed though that the "heavy" trigger on the D2 is 200ma rated.

There's also the 12v supply for the ir block - which I can't find a rating for in the manual, but it's got to be more than 200ma, etc. I'm sure.

Is anyone powering a fan (such as the 150ma one above) on one of the ports of the D2 for cooling? It's a small load comparatively..

Thanks!


Just curious - I could send Anthem an email as I wouldn't want that to be an issue.
post #6875 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Expletive View Post


Rob,
Thanks for the vote of confidence, I picked up Casino Royale last night so i'll do some testing today with the D2 and 1080p24

No problem, and let us know how it goes.

As an aside, you still get my vote for best user name ever!
post #6876 of 42717
The picture didn't link the first time. Here it is again...
LL
post #6877 of 42717
Bill, that pic is a bit small. Is the 17" model just missing the "wings"?
post #6878 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpcat View Post

Just as an aside, 1080p24sf output capability would be a nice addition for the D2/AVM50.

I agree - but I doubt we will see it.
post #6879 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Tomlin View Post

Bill, that pic is a bit small. Is the 17" model just missing the "wings"?


Sorry for the small pic, I couldn't figure out how to get it to accept a larger file and on Mem day weekend gave up.

Exactly. When you order one expect to wait 6 weeks.
post #6880 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillW View Post

Sorry for the small pic, I couldn't figure out how to get it to accept a larger file and on Mem day weekend gave up.

Exactly. When you order one expect to wait 6 weeks.

AVS limits the file size.
post #6881 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillW View Post

Sorry for the small pic, I couldn't figure out how to get it to accept a larger file and on Mem day weekend gave up.

Exactly. When you order one expect to wait 6 weeks.

Thanks a ton for the shot of your 17" D2. Wasn't sure if anyone would bite on my request.

If you get around to it, I would like to see a larger pic.

You can upload the pic to a hosting site like www.photobucket.com and then insert the image into the body of the post using the "insert image" button at the top of the box when writing your post. (The insert image button has what looks like a picture of the sun coming up over some mountains on it.)
post #6882 of 42717
Question for those running a Denon 3910 using 6 Channel Audio cables.

I have my Denon 3910 set up with a HDMI cable and then a 6 Channel Audio Cables to the D2. I have in the setup Audio In: Dig HDMI, is that correct for 6 Channel Audio Cables.

I am playing the Eagles Surround Sound DVD, and supurised that I am getting sound from my L,R, Side, Sub and Rears, but no center. Is that correct?

Michael
post #6883 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthemAVM View Post

Question for those running a Denon 3910 using 6 Channel Audio cables.

I have my Denon 3910 set up with a HDMI cable and then a 6 Channel Audio Cables to the D2. I have in the setup Audio In: Dig HDMI, is that correct for 6 Channel Audio Cables.

I am playing the Eagles Surround Sound DVD, and supurised that I am getting sound from my L,R, Side, Sub and Rears, but no center. Is that correct?

Michael

To use the 6-ch analog inputs of the D2 you have to select the 6-CH input source of the D2. I.e., your can't use the 6 channel analog audio input sockets with any other D2 input source selected such as DVD1.

In Setup / Source Select for the 6-CH input, you can then specify Audio In=Analog DSP or Analog Direct. Analog DSP means the 6 channel input gets digitized and processed. [By default the D2 digitizes the 6 channel input at 96KHz. This can be changed in the Setup / ADC menu.]

Analog Direct means the 6 channel input gets passed to the output without being either digitized or processed. For example, all LFE channel audio goes to the subwoofer (only), but no audio is steered to the subwoofer from any of the main channels even if their speakers are set to "Small". [So speaker configuration processing, such as bass steering, would need to be done in the player.]

In Setup / Source Select for the 6-CH input, you can also specify an HDMI socket to send video to the scaler. If you ALSO set Audio In=DIG HDMI, and Auto Dig=ON, then the D2's 6-CH input source will automatically use digital audio from the HDMI input if it detects any, otherwise it will use Analog DSP (processing) of the 6 channel analog input sockets. [Analog Direct mode is not available if you are using Auto Dig=ON.]
--Bob
post #6884 of 42717
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishysan View Post

Glad to see Levesque you like the PS3 quality - it's nice too. Are you forcing it to use RGB extended? (that's how I've got it set ATM).

After reading what S. Spears wrote, I'm using:

PS3: Output - YCbCr, RGB - Limit (not full...), Super White - On
D2: YCbCr 4:4:4 out
JVC HD-1: Black level normal, HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4

For those interested, there is a guy in the projector section of AVS that just post a link to the firmware upgrade with clear and easy instructions for the RS-1/HD-1 from 059 (first firmware) to 061, fixing the colorspace problems. To perform the upgrade, we can use the same 9 pin to 9 pin serial cable we use to upgrade the firmware for the D2.

Link to RS-1/HD1 firmware:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&#post10641059

Here's what S. Spears did say about firmware 1.8 for the PS3:

"So I just tested RGB @ full and you want to leave it as limit, unless you like to increase banding.

RGB @ Limit - Levels stay where they are. Y 1, CbCr 128 will be RGB 1, 1, 1 when done.
RGB @ Full - Levels get compressed. Y 1, CbCr 128 will be RGB 16, 16, 16 when done. (Best guess based on looking at image)
Full is different than the usual expansion where Y 16, CbCr 128 becomes RGB 0, 0, 0.

The best video quality is:

Output - YCbCr
RGB - Limit
Super White - On

BTB is still passed when RGB is set to limit, just bring brightness up to see it. Then turn brightness back down where it belongs. When you set brightness based on RGB limit and then switch to RGB full, you will see the BTB stripe. This is because you just remapped Y 7, CbCr 128 (the BTB stripe) to a much higher value. "
post #6885 of 42717
Hi Guys,


I haven't been on in a while, but I am still having issues with the component input of my AVM 50. I was, and still am experiancing brief blue screens while watching a DVD if I use the Sony Dvd player hooked to the component input. I get no blue screens while watching the Pioneer player over HDMI.

Some other odd behavior that I noticed is that I get extreme jagged lines on the edges of objects when watching the Sony over component. I didn't remember the Sony looking that way when it was connected directly to the display, so I bypassed the Anthem, and sure enough, no jaggies. Just for fun, I tried the pioneer, and same behavior.

By now, my little brain is in gear and workin, so I tried switching the output of the pioneer to progressive, since it was putting out 480i , and the jagged edges were gone!

I am hoping the poor de-interlacing of the component sources (and the blue screens) are software related, so that I dont have to send the AVM 50 in for service.

Here is where I am hoping someone can help me. I am running the 1.11 software that came with the AVM 50, but now want to try one of the beta software versions. Does anyone have one of the latest versions (if you are happy with the stability) that you would be willing to send to me. I am off of work tomorrow, and would like to spend some time trying to get this thing fixed.
Frank @ anthem offered to send me the beta software on a couple of occasions, but I had been wary of upgrading. I do have the proper cable, though, and am hoping for an easy fix for this problem.

Sorry for the long post, and thanks!

Sean
post #6886 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by soapman72 View Post

Hi Guys,


I haven't been on in a while, but I am still having issues with the component input of my AVM 50. I was, and still am experiancing brief blue screens while watching a DVD if I use the Sony Dvd player hooked to the component input. I get no blue screens while watching the Pioneer player over HDMI.

Some other odd behavior that I noticed is that I get extreme jagged lines on the edges of objects when watching the Sony over component. I didn't remember the Sony looking that way when it was connected directly to the display, so I bypassed the Anthem, and sure enough, no jaggies. Just for fun, I tried the pioneer, and same behavior.

By now, my little brain is in gear and workin, so I tried switching the output of the pioneer to progressive, since it was putting out 480i , and the jagged edges were gone!

I am hoping the poor de-interlacing of the component sources (and the blue screens) are software related, so that I dont have to send the AVM 50 in for service.

Here is where I am hoping someone can help me. I am running the 1.11 software that came with the AVM 50, but now want to try one of the beta software versions. Does anyone have one of the latest versions (if you are happy with the stability) that you would be willing to send to me. I am off of work tomorrow, and would like to spend some time trying to get this thing fixed.
Frank @ anthem offered to send me the beta software on a couple of occasions, but I had been wary of upgrading. I do have the proper cable, though, and am hoping for an easy fix for this problem.

Sorry for the long post, and thanks!

Sean

There have been a few rare reports of the Anthem not properly recognizing the resolution of a Component 480i input signal. The fact that you are seeing tearing or jaggies with Component 480i input but have no problem with Component 480p input suggests to me that you may have been bitten by this.

One easy test is to send Component 480i to the Anthem (so that you see the video problem) and then check the Video Source Adjust / Info panel (under the "7" key on the remote) to see whether it shows the input resolution as Component 480x720i (correct) or some other value -- most often Component 480x1440i (incorrect). If the Anthem is showing the incorrect value then you will definitely see an improvement with one of the test software versions. Version V1.11g has been the one that's reported to work best for people with Component video problems.
--Bob
post #6887 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by LEVESQUE View Post

After reading what S. Spears wrote, I'm using:

PS3: Output - YCbCr, RGB - Limit (not full...), Super White - On
D2: YCbCr 4:4:4 out
JVC HD-1: Black level normal, HDMI YCbCr 4:4:4

Cool thanks! I hadn't calibrated or futzed much but I did find some of what I watched a bit washed - that would explain it. Still have some tweaking to do.

Interesting that you are using 4:4:4 out - I thought I'd use that too, but was wondering after having read stuff in the past about the bandwidth and not leaving anything for the RS1 side to upsample the video or something. Can't remember the details and it might be smoke? dunno..
post #6888 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

There have been a few rare reports of the Anthem not properly recognizing the resolution of a Component 480i input signal. The fact that you are seeing tearing or jaggies with Component 480i input but have no problem with Component 480p input suggests to me that you may have been bitten by this.

One easy test is to send Component 480i to the Anthem (so that you see the video problem) and then check the Video Source Adjust / Info panel (under the "7" key on the remote) to see whether it shows the input resolution as Component 480x720i (correct) or some other value -- most often Component 480x1440i (incorrect). If the Anthem is showing the incorrect value then you will definitely see an improvement with one of the test software versions. Version V1.11g has been the one that's reported to work best for people with Component video problems.
--Bob



Bob,

You are a genius! Yes, that is exactly what the resolution says (1440x480i), while all other sources (HDMI) are reported correctly.

Now, would you be willing to email me 1.11g if you have it? If you could, I would be in your debt. If i am not already pushing my luck, what is the proper way to update the software? I figure I need to write down all my settings, and do a reset to factory settings, but what exactly is the proceedure?

I ran a video board questioner that Frank sent me from anthem, but I'm guessing this is slightly more involved. Thanks again, at least I am feeling like this problem is software, not hardware related. If you want to email it to me, my email address is seanallard@hotmail.com. Thanks!

Sean
post #6889 of 42717
Bob's next post was way better than mine!!!

EDIT: Deleted lame directions
post #6890 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by soapman72 View Post

Bob,

You are a genius! Yes, that is exactly what the resolution says (1440x480i), while all other sources (HDMI) are reported correctly.

Now, would you be willing to email me 1.11g if you have it? If you could, I would be in your debt. If i am not already pushing my luck, what is the proper way to update the software? I figure I need to write down all my settings, and do a reset to factory settings, but what exactly is the proceedure?

I ran a video board questioner that Frank sent me from anthem, but I'm guessing this is slightly more involved. Thanks again, at least I am feeling like this problem is software, not hardware related. If you want to email it to me, my email address is seanallard@hotmail.com. Thanks!

Sean

I don't have any of the AVM50 software (it's a different build than the D2 software since the hardware is different), and in fact I'm still on original D2 V1.11 myself.

Anthem tech support will e-mail the version you need to you if you don't get it sooner. In any event, they'd likely appreciate knowing that you are doing an update so that they can track which versions are fixing which problems for which people.

=============================================
WARNING: For folks tempted to do an upgrade using the original V1.11 software that is available for download from the Anthem web site, be aware that some small percentage of owners have had SIGNFICANT problems with this install due to issues with the installer application itself (improper timings in the way it talks to the Anthem from some Windows computers). The install may not work, and in extreme cases the install may leave the Anthem in a state that is tricky to recover from. These problems were fixed by Anthem in roughly the V1.11c software, but for reasons known only to them they've left the original V1.11 software up on the web site. The test software versions that Anthem tech support emails to people, V1.11e and etc., do not raise these concerns.

[Note that if you do the original V1.11 install anyway, and it completes normally without complaint then you are golden. It worked just fine for you and you don't have to worry about what I just said. If the install of the original V1.11 fails, it might very well work using a different computer. It is OK to retry the install on top of the failed version.]

Anthem is telling folks that the next significant update of its software is only a few weeks away. If you don't have a pressing need to install new software right now, my recommendation would be that you wait for that release RATHER THAN installing the original V1.11 software from the Anthem web site. If you DO have a pressing need, I suggest you contact Anthem tech support, and get one of the test software versions from them to use instead of the original V1.11 from the web site. The V1.11e test software is (as of today) the version reported here as having the fewest issues.
=============================================

Here is the belt & suspenders approach to doing the update:

* Write down all your settings that you can't simpy remember. Be sure to note both your Setup menu settings and your Video Source Adjust settings for each input.

* Turn off your system.

* Turn off the Anthem's back panel power switch.

* Physically disconnect any HDMI source devices and also your HDMI display from wall power unless you are ABSOLUTELY 100% SURE that they don't power their HDMI socket when they are in their Off/Standby mode. Do not skip this step. The software install will fail if there are any live HDMI connections to the Anthem, and quite a few HDMI devices leave their HDMI sockets powered even though the device itself appears to be turned off.

* Hook up a correct serial cable between the back of the Anthem and the Windows computer you intend to use. You want a "straight through" cable (pins 1-9 go to pins 1-9), not the identical looking cable, sometimes called a "null modem" cable, that swaps some wires. It is best to use a computer with a real serial port instead of a USB/serial adapter. If you DO use a USB/Serial adapter, you may need to turn on "Xon/Xoff" flow control to get it to work correctly.

* Turn on the back panel power switch of the Anthem. Leave all other devices off.

* Use the Anthem Setup Editor application to save your Setup menu settings to a PC file. The application will turn the Anthem on itself as necessary. Use the latest version of the Setup Editor that you have -- the one that came with the new software from Anthem if you have it, otherwise at the very least the V1.10 software version. Exit that application.

PLEASE NOTE: Skip the next step if your current software is older than V1.04. Live Video Settings Editor was introduced as part of the V1.04 software, and it doesn't function if your Anthem is currently running software older than that. Just write down your Video Source Adjust settings manually.

* If you have the V1.11g version (or later) of the Live Video Settings Editor application, use it to save your Video Source Adjust menu settings -- for all input sources -- to a file on the PC. If you have an older version you will need to depend upon the settings your wrote down. Exit that application.

* TIME OUT! Think carefully. Have you written down ALL of the Anthem settings you need to write down? OK, then proceed.

* Power on the Anthem. Go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and do a Reload Factory Defaults. This will cause you to lose your video display but you can still see what's going on using the Anthem's front panel display. When the reload finishes, Back out of the Setup menu and power off the Anthem normally. Leave the back panel switch of the Anthem in the ON position.

* Run the software installer application. It will turn the Anthem on and off itself as necessary during the process. Typically the process will take about 15 minutes including the verification passes. *DO NOT INTERRUPT THE INSTALL* Make sure your computer won't go "to sleep" for example, during the install.

* If the install fails with an error, it is safe to try it again. Contact Anthem if you can't get it to install (rare with the current versions).

* Once the install completes normally, turn on the Anthem and, using the front panel display and the pictures of the menus in your user's manual to keep from getting lost, go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and do a Reload Factory Defaults AGAIN. These will, of course, be the defaults for the new software you just installed. Back out of that and turn off the Anthem.

* Using the Anthem Setup Editor application, restore your Setup menu settings to the Anthem from the PC file where you saved them. Exit that application.

* If you have the V1.11g (or later) version of the Live Video Settings Editor application, use it to restore your Video Source Adjust menu settings for all input sources from the PC file where you saved them. Exit that application. Turn off the Anthem.

* Power off the Anthem using the back panel switch. Disconnect the serial cable. Plug your HDMI sources and HDMI display back into wall power.

PLEASE NOTE: If you are upgrading from a software version older than V1.06, be aware that Anthem changed the list of available video output resolutions in V1.06. Your old video output resolution setting will likely not restore automatically. This means you will likely need to go into Setup / Video Output and manually correct your video output resolution to get your display live again.

* Power up your system. You should have a good display. If you don't have a display for any reason, remember that you can examine/correct Setup menu settings using the Anthem's front panel display.

* Go through all of your Setup menu settings and compare them to the values you wrote down. In particular, go to each overlayed device you are *NOT* using (i.e., DVD2 or DVD3 or whatever) and "disable" it in the first line of it's Setup / Source Select menu page.

* For each input (normal or overlayed) you ARE using, start video from that device, select it as the Anthem input, and bring up the Video Source Adjust menu for it and verify any settings you want in there. Double check the Video Source Adjust / Info panel to be sure the input and output signals are reporting what they should be reporting.

-----------------------------------------------------------------

In reality the menu settings will likely survive just fine if you install the new software on top of the old without going through all the steps of saving settings, reloading factory defaults and etc. But the process above is the SAFEST approach.
--Bob
post #6891 of 42717
Bob,


Thanks for the detailed reply. I'm sure it will come in handy. If anyone else has the 1.11g software update for the AVM 50, please let me know. It would be great to have the whole day tomorrow to mess around with it.

Have a great memorial day everyone!


Sean
post #6892 of 42717
Bob,
Thanks for the detailed instructions.I have been very hesitant to do an upgrade for fear of messing it up.Till yesterday I was on the original build 1.0.I did the upgrade successfully!!.The only thing I screwed up was saving my settings on the live video software.I did not understand how to save the settings.I kept hitting the "GET" button thinking it would get my settings and it kept telling me that it is communicating with the D2.Finally I just went ahead and did the upgrade anyway.No problems.It saved my settings any way.Next project is learning how to program the MX 3000! .
post #6893 of 42717
I am just about to replace the bulb in my Ruby.....1300 hours. The performance is such that the little voice in your head telling you that the quality is diminishing is drowned out by the audience demanding a brighter pic. I have been holding out for the next full production release for the D2. I am currently running 1.10 and everything sort of works, sort of. I have been following this thread religiously and have to admit that I would NOT feel confident in choosing the best current version to upgrade to as it is very very dependent on the equipment mix. It seems like it is taking forever to finalize the next release. If I list the primary elements in my system I wonder if there is any advice on the best choice or at worst any versions I should avoid.

Toshiba Xa2 ver 1.6 running HDMI
Moto 8412 COGECO cable HDMI
Sat (bell expressvu 6100) HDMI
Sony ES777 Mega changer coupled with Escient ES D1 ver 4.2.xx Component
Oppo 970 480i over HDMI (latest version)
HP z558 entertainment center (XP proffesional) component
Statement D2 ver 1.10 HDMI 1080p/60 to proj
Sony (Ruby) 1080p/60

Thanks to anyone with suggestions other than ver 1.10

Peter
post #6894 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by LEVESQUE View Post

I totally concur with that. I just installed a PS3 in my room yesterday (Tolstoi's wife said I lost all credibility with that move! ) 1080p24, Media gallery... I couldn't resist and bought one. I just drank Sony's Kool-Aid!

But handshake is now rock-solid and so fast between the D2 and PS3, it's really impressive. Compared to the Toshiba HD-XA2 and the Pioneer BDP-HD1, it's a breath of fresh air...

The PS3 picture with the latest firmware is easily on par with the Pioneer BDP-HD1, and 1080p24 is rock-solid directly to the JVC HD-1/RS-1. But since I'm now using 1.11e again, I'm using 1080p60 from the PS3, and there is no differences with the BDP-HD1 picture quality with the same resolution. BUT! The PS3 is so fast and handshake is rock-solid! It takes like 10 seconds to put a Blu-ray disk in it and start the film. Just like my Oppo with DVDs. The PS3 is 20-30 seconds faster then the Pioneer Elite BDP-HD1 or Toshiba HD-XA2 for booting and starting to play a Blu-ray disk.

But PQ is just great. On the same level with the Pioneer. After watching 2 films yesterday evening, I'm so happy I bought the PS3... I was only waiting for 1080p24 before making my move...

And the Media Gallery is working alot better and faster on the PS3 then the Pioneer. Faster and easier to use.

IMHO, the latest firmware for the PS3 just made all the other Blu-ray players already on the market or coming out this summer OBSOLETE. I'm sure alot of Sony's partners making Blu-ray players are not really happy about that latest firmware for the PS3... Sony is probably paying ALOT of money to those manufacturers and "partners" to keep them "happy" after coming out with that firmware...

I'm sure Drhankz won't talk to me anymore (and I lost all credibility with Tolstoi's wife ) but the PS3 is an awesome Blu-ray player, even if not considering the price alone!

The only "problem" is the PS3 fan noise... It's like having a plane in my rack. It's behind a closed door, so I can't hear it, but I can only imagine what it would be like if it was directly in the room! The Pioneer BDP-HD1, fanless, was SOOOO silent...

II still can't believe LEVESQUE is using a game console to drive is HT. Years of learning and evolution to end-up using a Game Console.

Seriously the main 4 reasons I discarded the PS3 as a Blu-Ray before picking the BPD-HD1 where:

1) Too loud for my HT. I don't have a dedicated HT and unless I move this will not change.
2) At home we are already fighting to choose a movie adding game capability on the BR player would significantly increase the issue.
3) No 24 FPS
4) Poor DVD transport/Player

Issues 3) and 4) where resolved by Sony through firmware release but issue 1) and 2) are still there.
post #6895 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by nine ball View Post

I am just about to replace the bulb in my Ruby.....1300 hours. The performance is such that the little voice in your head telling you that the quality is diminishing is drowned out by the audience demanding a brighter pic. I have been holding out for the next full production release for the D2. I am currently running 1.10 and everything sort of works, sort of. I have been following this thread religiously and have to admit that I would NOT feel confident in choosing the best current version to upgrade to as it is very very dependent on the equipment mix. It seems like it is taking forever to finalize the next release. If I list the primary elements in my system I wonder if there is any advice on the best choice or at worst any versions I should avoid.

Toshiba Xa2 ver 1.6 running HDMI
Moto 8412 COGECO cable HDMI
Sat (bell expressvu 6100) HDMI
Sony ES777 Mega changer coupled with Escient ES D1 ver 4.2.xx Component
Oppo 970 480i over HDMI (latest version)
HP z558 entertainment center (XP proffesional) component
Statement D2 ver 1.10 HDMI 1080p/60 to proj
Sony (Ruby) 1080p/60

Thanks to anyone with suggestions other than ver 1.10

Peter


Your best bet is 1.11e.
post #6896 of 42717
Heehee

Well unfortunately devices seem noiser today. I don't recall the PS3 being much noisier than the A2 which is noisy too.. but quieter than the stupid 360 DVD and such. Too bad. Mind you I've only watched one movie with the v1.8 which is reported to be noisier now. But I'm not convinced it will be noisier on just BD movies compared to before - I can see it though for upscaling and the like as it's using more cells.

As for your second point, having no games to put in it, and hiding the controller will work. hehe I didn't have a game for the PS3 for months (play 360) but I did download demos out of curiosity. I broke that rule recently and bought Motostorm.

I'd like to get the 24p working with it though the D2 to the RS1 though. Hmmm.

Cheers!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tolstoi View Post

II still can't believe LEVESQUE is using a game console to drive is HT. Years of learning and evolution to end-up using a Game Console.

Seriously the main 4 reasons I discarded the PS3 as a Blu-Ray before picking the BPD-HD1 where:

1) Too loud for my HT. I don't have a dedicated HT and unless I move this will not change.
2) At home we are already fighting to choose a movie adding game capability on the BR player would significantly increase the issue.
3) No 24 FPS
4) Poor DVD transport/Player

Issues 3) and 4) where resolved by Sony through firmware release but issue 1) and 2) are still there.
post #6897 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by shah993 View Post

Bob,
Thanks for the detailed instructions.I have been very hesitant to do an upgrade for fear of messing it up.Till yesterday I was on the original build 1.0.I did the upgrade successfully!!.The only thing I screwed up was saving my settings on the live video software.I did not understand how to save the settings.I kept hitting the "GET" button thinking it would get my settings and it kept telling me that it is communicating with the D2.Finally I just went ahead and did the upgrade anyway.No problems.It saved my settings any way.Next project is learning how to program the MX 3000! .

I'm glad it went smoothly for you!

There are three different applications that are part of the install kit. There's the installer application itself of course, specific to the version of the software you are trying to install. Then there's the Setup Editor, which can be used to save the Setup menu settings to a PC file and to restore them afterwards. And finally there's the Live Video Settings Editor which is primarily used to configure Video Source Adjust settings on the Anthem while you are watching programs to see the results. In the V1.10 software and later Live Video Settings Editor provides significant additional adjustment features over and above what you can do using the Anthem's own, internal, Video Source Adjust menus: Additional video output resolutions, custom video output resolutions, and custom Gamma correction curves for example.

Now, the V1.11g version of Live Video Settings Editor added the ability to save all the Video Source Adjust settings for all sources at one time to a PC file, and to restore them to the Anthem afterwards. So if you were using an earlier version of that application, you wouldn't be able to do this easily.

Again, all the Setup menu settings and Video Source Adjust settings SHOULD survive a software upgrade just fine if you simply install the software on top of them (without first saving them to the PC, and without erasing them yourself via Reload Factory Defaults). But some software upgrades seem to go more smoothly if you go through the extra steps to put the machine into a known state of settings.

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EDITED TO ADD: Ah! I see you were upgrading from the V1.0 software. That's why Live Video Settings Editor didn't work for you to save Video Source Adjust menu settings. Live Video Settings Editor was introduced as part of the V1.04 software. It doesn't talk to Anthems with software older than that. If your software is older than V1.04, just use the Setup Editor application (the newest version you have) to save Setup menu settings, and just write down your Video Source Adjust settings manually. I've edited the instructions post above to clarify this.
======================================


WARNING: For folks tempted to do an upgrade using the original V1.11 software that is available for download from the Anthem web site, be aware that some small percentage of owners have had SIGNFICANT problems with this install due to issues with the installer application itself (improper timings in the way it talks to the Anthem from some Windows computers). The install may not work, and in extreme cases the install may leave the Anthem in a state that is tricky to recover from. These problems were fixed by Anthem in roughly the V1.11c software, but for reasons known only to them they've left the original V1.11 software up on the web site. The test software versions that Anthem tech support emails to people, V1.11e and etc., do not raise these concerns.

[Note that if you do the original V1.11 install anyway, and it completes normally without complaint then you are golden. It worked just fine for you and you don't have to worry about what I just said.]

Anthem is telling folks that the next significant update of its software is only a few weeks away. If you don't have a pressing need to install new software right now, my recommendation would be that you wait for that release RATHER THAN installing the original V1.11 software from the Anthem web site. If you DO have a pressing need, I suggest you contact Anthem tech support, and get one of the test software versions from them to use instead of the originall V1.11 from the web site. The V1.11e test software is the version reported here as having the fewest issues.
--Bob
post #6898 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by nine ball View Post

I am just about to replace the bulb in my Ruby.....1300 hours. The performance is such that the little voice in your head telling you that the quality is diminishing is drowned out by the audience demanding a brighter pic. I have been holding out for the next full production release for the D2. I am currently running 1.10 and everything sort of works, sort of. I have been following this thread religiously and have to admit that I would NOT feel confident in choosing the best current version to upgrade to as it is very very dependent on the equipment mix. It seems like it is taking forever to finalize the next release. If I list the primary elements in my system I wonder if there is any advice on the best choice or at worst any versions I should avoid.

Toshiba Xa2 ver 1.6 running HDMI
Moto 8412 COGECO cable HDMI
Sat (bell expressvu 6100) HDMI
Sony ES777 Mega changer coupled with Escient ES D1 ver 4.2.xx Component
Oppo 970 480i over HDMI (latest version)
HP z558 entertainment center (XP proffesional) component
Statement D2 ver 1.10 HDMI 1080p/60 to proj
Sony (Ruby) 1080p/60

Thanks to anyone with suggestions other than ver 1.10

Peter

Since you have an XA2, the best software version for you right now is V1.11e. It has significant bug fixes over the V1.10 you are using now, and I know of no significant issues related to your mix of devices. The V1.11g version has a few more Component video fixes but is not good for XA2 owners.

However, Anthem is telling folks that the next significant software release will be out in just a few weeks. This version (test software V1.12k and above) includes A COMPLETE REWRITE of the HDMI portion of the software. That's what's been the holdup apparently. It's also been reported here that they've made real advances in it's 1080p/24 implemention. That version is in very limited release right now. If I were in your shoes, and having no dramatic problems with the current V1.10, I'd wait for that next version.
--Bob
post #6899 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Since you have an XA2, the best software version for you right now is V1.11e. It has significant bug fixes over the V1.10 you are using now, and I know of no significant issues related to your mix of devices. The V1.11g version has a few more Component video fixes but is not good for XA2 owners.

However, Anthem is telling folks that the next significant software release will be out in just a few weeks. This version (test software V1.12k and above) includes A COMPLETE REWRITE of the HDMI portion of the software. That's what's been the holdup apparently. It's also been reported here that they've made real advances in it's 1080p/24 implemention. That version is in very limited release right now. If I were in your shoes, and having no dramatic problems with the current V1.10, I'd wait for that next version.
--Bob

Bob, I can't thank you enough for your response........as usual your balanced view prevails.

Peter
post #6900 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by LEVESQUE View Post

For those interested, there is a guy in the projector section of AVS that just post a link to the firmware upgrade with clear and easy instructions for the RS-1/HD-1 from 059 (first firmware) to 061, fixing the colorspace problems. To perform the upgrade, we can use the same 9 pin to 9 pin serial cable we use to upgrade the firmware for the D2.

Just peeked at the upgrade for the RS1 PDF and saw that opposite to what the D2 needs, it needs a Null Modem cable, or a cross-connected serial cable which is ODD! You can probably buy an adapter for your existing serial cable for the D2. You might even be able to do it at the driver level? No sure.

Found that odd.. see under "Equipment Required" in the PDF.

Cheers.
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