Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 249

On your first question, I haven't installed V1.12 stuff yet, but my understanding is that they simply provided 2 video output setups, much the same as the 2 speaker configuration setups. You get to select which video output setup you wan't associated with each overlayed input when you specify the setup for that input.

If correct, that would still mean the only automatic way to change your video output -- for video processed from any given source -- would be to turn on Frame Lock = Auto for that source. In that case the frame rate (and only the frame rate) specified in your video output setup would be overridden by whatever frame rate was coming in from the source. The output resolution would remain unchanged.
--Bob

Coming from a 7 month "no problem" status of the AVM50, it gets frustrating with just 1 firmware upgrade everything is screwed. Maybe ,I left 1 HDMI source on or something. Maybe I did not follow instructions to the letter, but I just can't comprehend that I cannot revert back to my original firmware state without having any problems.

Originally got 1.12q and had it loaded without a hitch. Tried PS3 and watched Dead Man's Chest for less than an hour and the problem started with no signal going to the PJ. After a while it video is on again but only for a minute or so. After fiddling with the switches and some settings after 2 hours, I can't get any video from any source. even the OSD from the CD input were gone. No volume indicator at the bottom of the screen anymore.

Tried to 1.12r and the problems got worse. Tried going back to the original 1.11, loaded only after 10 tries and same problem also. Video can't seem to hold. It will just go out, sometimes returning and on some occasions, not coming back at all. Even if I power down or doing a complete shut off, nothing can get the video back. The weird thing is that even the audio has problems also, when HDMI tries a handshake a high pitch short burst of sound is heard. one of my amps shut down to protect itself. This could damage the tweeter of my speakers.

Have tried more than 50 installs of several updates but to no avail. I can get CD sound via digital Coax though but no video. No install is completed and it says that it cannot load OKI boot loader. That's it after that, the unit shuts off.

Can a Flash eraser help with my problem? I remember in one install the error message was Cannot load OKI loader protect state or something similar to this.

Because of the 12 hr time difference. I can get response from Anthem only after 12 midnight when I am asleep. then when I get up , its night time in your timezone.

Bob,
Very thanks for the help in the decision of a problem.
By your advice I have made following experiment.
From D2 I have disconnected ALL sources and have disconnected them from mains. Has left connected only DVD-player Pioneer DV-868AVi (DV-59AVi). At switched off a DVD-player I include D2. Hissings are not present. At inclusion of a feed of a DVD-player it appears. At switching-off of a DVD-player from mains hissing does not vanish. Further I have disconnected a digital connecting cable from a DVD-player and have connected a player on analog connection, and in the menu 5 I have chosen Analog-Dir. In this case already at inclusion D2 (at the switched off DVD-player) I have heard the same hissing. Specified in the specification for input Analog-Dir a signal-noise 107 dB obviously mismatch that noise level which has my copy D2. Subjectively is approximately 60-65 dB. Very similar, that the specified problem is connected with internal components D2.
Best regards, ibg5.

Is it a hiss sound or a high pitched sort of whine?

[
#1 Selection between video conf 1 and 2 is not dynamic. For each source you need to define if that source is using video conf 1 or 2. This done in the setup menu for each source. The video conf for the XA2 need to 1080p60 not 1080p24.

#2 You need to ensure the XA2 is not doing any processing on the audio. Set all speakers to large and subwoofer to yes.

I use a 59avi myself with my D2 and have no such problem. I see nothing unusual in your software version or source devices to explain this. I can think of no setup error you might have made that would explain this. I believe you have a hardware problem in your D2. Anthem will likely need to swap it out for a new D2.

The most important result is that you get no hissing when the DVD player is connected by digital cable but not actually playing at the start. But the hiss returns as soon as the DVD player starts playing, and continues even if you then stop the DVD player. That eliminates any possibility that you are hearing EMI/RFI interference from some external source such as a light dimmer switch.

To verify this, try the following:

* Write down any D2 settings that you can't simply remember. You'll also need them if Anthem replaces your D2.

* Go to Setup / Save and Restore Settings and do a Save User Settings (so you can restore them later). Then do a Reload Factory Defaults. You will likely lose your TV picture but you can still continue using the Front Panel display.

* When the Reload Factory Defaults completes, use the Back button to exit the Setup menu. Then turn off the D2. Also turn off the power switch on the back of the D2.

* Disconnect EVERYTHING from the D2 -- and I mean EVERYTHING -- except for: (1) The D2 power cord. (2) One audio output cable from the D2 to your amp for the Left Front speaker channel. Leave the other audio output cables to the amp disconnected. And (3) an OPTICAL audio cable from the DVD player to the D2's Optical 1 input. It must be an OPTICAL audio cable for this test (the optical cable has no metal and thus has no electrical connection between the DVD player and the D2). Do not connect ANY other cables to the D2. No video input cables and no video output to your display for example. No HDMI cables. No other source devices. No cable to your subwoofer.

* Also disconnect any other cables from the DVD player except for the DVD power cable and the OPTICAL audio cable to the D2.

* Turn on the back panel power switch on the D2. Power up the D2.

* Using the Front Panel display, go to Setup / Source Setup / DVD1 and enter Audio In = Optical 1. Also enter Auto Dig = NO. Make no other changes.

* Back out of the Setup menu. You will not need to make any changes in the Video Output menu or the Speaker Configuration menus for this test.

* Turn off the D2. Remove any disc from the DVD player and turn off the DVD player. The amp can remain on.

* Turn on the D2. When the D2 finishes powering up, select the DVD1 input and adjust the D2 main volume to a normal listening level.

QUESTION 1: You should hear no hiss. Correct?

* Turn on the DVD player (no disc playing).

QUESTION 2: Still no hiss, correct?

* Put a normal, music CD in the DVD player and play it. You should hear music from your Left Front speaker (the only audio output from the D2).

[If the D2 main volume is too loud or too soft for this CD, adjust it now to a normal listening level, remember that value, and start over from where you powered down the D2 and DVD player just above. Adjust the D2 main volume back to this value after you power up the D2.]

QUESTION 3: With the D2 main volume properly adjusted to hear the music from the Left Front speaker, do you now also hear an annoying amount of hiss from that speaker?

* Reach behind the DVD player and disconnect the Optical audio cable. The music will, of course, stop.

QUESITON 4: Do you STILL hear the same amount of hiss?

If the answer is YES to these 4 questions, then you likely have a hardware problem in your D2.

It can't be EMI/RFI since there is no hiss until you start playing the CD.

And it can't be a problem in your DVD player since the hiss, once it begins, keeps going even after you disconnect the optical digital audio cable.

It is just barely possible that the hiss is being generated in your amp. Your amp may be muting itself until it sees an input signal. When an input signal appears, the amp unmutes and the hiss appears. But the amp stays unmuted (with the hiss continuing) even after the signal vanishes.

This is not likely because of your test with the analog inputs to the D2 -- i.e., you had hiss even before you started the DVD player.

You can eliminate this possibility by trying a different amp. Bring the D2 back to your dealer and test it with one of the dealer's amps.
--Bob

Let me see if I understand this:

1) V1.12q installed without any complaint or error, and initially appeared to be working, but after playing the PS3 for a while your video failed.

2) V1.12r ALSO installed without any complaint or error, but no help with the video problems.

3) Attempting to go back to the original V1.11 produced numerous install failures -- most of them being the OKI loader failure. You eventually got V1.11 to install without complaint but your video and now also audio over HDMI problems remain.

All correct?

OK, your PS3 problem with V1.12q and V1.12r sounds like an overheating problem. This should not be happening but there have been some reports like this with prior versions (notably V1.11g). Adding an external fan to help cool the D2 is a workaround that has worked for other folks. Of course this is something Anthem has to fix.

Your install problems with the original V1.11 are due to the installer application not working correctly on your computer. This problem was fixed in roughly the V1.11c release. The V1.11e release that you are attempting to get is the correct one for you to use to go back to the V1.11 style of software.

Your continuing problems after finally reinstalling V1.11 are disturbing. You could have a faulty install (fix it by installing the V1.11e version). But you may also have damaged your HDMI connections.

Carefully unplug your HDMI connections and, using a flashlight, check each plug and socket for signs of pin damage.

It is also just possible that Anthem made some change in the V1.12 version which makes it tricky to revert to a V1.11 version. I have not heard any such warnings.

One possibility is that your settings got messed up when you reverted. You might want to try a Reload Factory Defaults (of your V1.11 software) and then MANUALLY re-entering your settings rather than restoring them from any saved place.
--Bob

Ok just so you all know, I did get the D2 fixed. I had to borrow my neighbors computer with xp loaded, I didnt get a crash at all and now everything is great. I dont think Vista agrees with the programing or the usb to serial adapter from radio shack. Does anyone use mac for these changes I think I might scrap all my computers and buy new macs. This has been so frustraiting, not because of anthem but because of windows vista.

So who has the anthem p5 and p2 for 7.1 surround? I want to biamp the fronts and the center channel, and i was thinking of getting either the p5 and p2 or getting the a series and get to biamp, I cant justify the cost to bi amp with the p5 and p2 to my wife but i think i could get the a series amps, let me know what you all think... Rob

Just some info for anyone looking for options if you don't have/can't get an actual serial port. I queried Anthem for a suitable usb to serial adaptor and Frank replied with the following manufacturers - Keyspan, Belkin, or IO Gear.

As I understand it the key being Microsoft WHQL certified drivers.

I ended up purchasing the Keyspan. I am not having any issues with the older software currently installed and therefore have not yet used the device as I am awaiting the production release of the next version.

ensmarcum,
I have the D2 p5 p2 set to matrix 7.1 out as the best you can do is 5.1 in! Having said that and I believe Filmixer (Marc) offered the best comments regarding 7.1 and the dearth of material in HD available with 7.1 source material.

However I would not change my p5 p2 configuration at this point and I will admit that this is mostly egotistical bias for the time being....... after the next release......1.12 full production I will probably have more substance to justify my position....I am currently running 1.10 and there have been a number of fixes which will affect my ability to configure and finally tweak the D2 properly and with stability working in my favour....

There has been a fairly recent in depth conversation on the subject of Biamping and I suggest doing a search in this thread.

Peter

Bob,
I am planning to 'start fresh' with the next full prod release for the D2. Is there a simple way to do this so that I avoid inheriting any sins of the past? I realize it will mean starting all over but I'm hoping that it will have everything happily working together for a starter.

Peter

Have you tried a reset to original settings from the front panel?

Same as suggested above, it's actually part of the installation instructions to Setup/13/e. restore factory defaults (make SURE you save settings before you do that )

The next software release will likely come with detailed upgrade instructions just as the V1.12 test software releases have now. Following those instructions is your best bet.

If you want to re-enter your settings manually after the upgrade just do that in lieu of the steps about reloading saved settings from files in the instructions.
--Bob

just reverted from 12r to 12q because of projector startup issues on the Anthem. Went fine, but only one hop back.

If you have to go with a USB/Serial adapter, be aware that these gizmos can sit on the peg in the store for quite a while before you buy one.

That means the driver software included in the package may very well ALREADY be outdated even before you first use it.

It is wise to check that you have the latest relevant driver software for your OS, and if there are new drivers from the USB/Serial adapter manufacturer then download and use those.
--Bob

I am interested in getting the Panasonic TH-50PF9UK plasma. Native resolutions is 1920x1080 (1080p). Is this a good match?

Thank you!

Bob P,
Another question for you. I was able to install the 1.11g upgrade successfully and everything seems to be working o.k. with the 480i component bug. One thing I have noticed though, is that when I scroll through the status button it registers Video Input No Signal even though I am able to see video on the T.V.. The Main Display displays everything it's suppose to but in the right lower corner where the Video Input resolution is supposed to be the Volume is fixed and it never switches back to display the Video Input resolution. The video input resolution does appear on the AVM50 main display when I change from interlaced to progressive in the Denon 2900 setup menu. Additionally, in the video source adjustment/info screen it does reflect the correct input for 480i (720 x 480i). Is this another bug? Please advise. Thanks

German

It looks like it accepts 1080p as an input, and has a 1:1 pixel mapping mode. I'd say it's a good match!

Of course, a projector is an even better match

There have been a scattering of reports of the video resolution not showing up, or displaying incorrectly on the front panel display or when the Select button is pressed to bring up the status display. This has happened with different software versions. However it is fairly rare, and not easy to reproduce.

Normally the resolution always shows correctly in the Video Source Adjust / Info panel.

Also, switching to a different source device and back usually causes the front panel display and the Select status to bring up the correct resolution.

This is certainly a bug, but a relatively minor one. Apparently the sofware that generates those displays is not retrieving the video resolution correctly or at the right moment. The Video Source Adjust / Info display, on the other hand, is being generated by the scaler itself, which apparently DOES know the correct video resolution.

If you have an easily reproducible case of this with your setup and the V1.11g software you just installed, you should pass on the info to Anthem tech support. This may help them finally find and fix this.
--Bob

If it accepts 1920x1080p/60Hz as an input resolution over HDMI it should be a good match. Panasonic plasmas generally get good reviews except, perhaps for their scalers. But the Anthem will be taking care of any scaling. They are also pretty well understood in terms of video calibration adjustments.

A better match would be if it ALSO accepts 1920x1080p/24Hz or /48Hz *AND* displays that at a refresh rate which is also a multiple of 24Hz. 72Hz as the refresh rate for this is probably the most common right now. That would mean you could display film based content "cadence judder free" through the Anthem.

I haven't looked into this particular Panasonic, so I don't know if it has any gotchas. Check the appropriate thread in the Plasma Displays forum here.
--Bob

I am also looking for a suitable USB to serial adapter. Does anyone have a successful REAL WORLD upgrade experience using this method and if so what specific brand and model of adapter did you find success with?

Mark

^^ io gear works great for me. One of those three mentioned will be great.

The issues seem to arise when not using a "real" PC (i.e. no Mac with virtualization or emulation), or the supported OS's.

Is there much difference in the procesing of these 2 for video? Im mostly looking to use this for home theatre. I also dont really need it amping the speakers, Most of mine are self powered B&O. What about upgradability of AVM50?

Also, whats the benefit for going with one of these vs say a more component approach - like getting a lumagen box with a solid receiver for the A side, or even a pre-amp/processor and amp and lumagen? What would you recommend since I dont need the amp part now really. How would you spend the 5-6K?

Both the Statement D2 and the AVM-50 are pre-amp/processors. They are not integrated "Receivers". That means they don't include power amps for your speakers. You need to pair either of them with amps to drive the speakers.

I have heard the D2 working with B&O 8000 speakers (which, of course, have their own, bulti-in amps) and it sounds very good indeed. [You can, however, do much better than the subwoofer B&O sells.] The only trick is doing a little finagling of the B&O connectors at the Anthem end so that the B&O speakers respond to the 12-volt trigger from the Anthem. Other than that, if you like the B&O speakers it makes for a sweet setup.

The video solutions of the D2 and AVM-50 are identical.

The D2 has a more "exotic" audio solution, a better power supply, spare DSP processing power that is expected to be used "real soon now" in a Room EQ upgrade, and a mere handful of feature differences over the AVM-50.

Here is the Anthem comparison chart which lists those few feature differences:

http://www.anthemav.com/NewSitev2.0/...CompChart.html

As for comparing a D2 or AVM-50 to the combo of a more common pre-amp/processor and an external scaler, the problem of chaining HDMI devices together, and the finger-pointing that erupts when something doesn't work, is the main issue. Right now the integrated video solution in the D2 and AVM-50 compares favorably with that offered in the external scalers.
--Bob

So you would go with the AVM50 if I dont need the extra bits from D2? How does it compare to other brands like sunfire TGV? Denon? Marantz? Lexicon? THanks for the help, its tough to get clear answers sometimes.....

any issues with it and blue ray from PS3?

also will the AVM50 be upgradable?

I just answered this for someone in a PM. LEVESQUE this should probably be linked in the Setup section of links in the first post:

==============================================

I Turned On Frame Lock, Lost My TV Picture, and Now Can't See it To Turn it Off!

OK, so you were playing around to see what things do, and turned on Video Source Adjust / Output / Frame Lock = AUTO for some input source and promptly lost your TV picture. Now you can't see the Video Source Adjust menu any more to turn Frame Lock = OFF! Is this your problem bunky?

You can fix this using the Video Source Adjust menu "shortcuts" that are collected under the "Mode" button on the remote.

Go to where you can see the Anthem's Front Panel display.

Using the remote, select the Anthem input which has the incorrect Frame Lock setting. Remember that Frame Lock is a per input setting, so you need to have the correct input selected before you can fix it.

Press AND HOLD the Mode button on the remote until the current Scale Out setting now shows on the Front Panel display.

Release the Mode button, pause briefly, and press it again. The current Crop Input setting now shows.

Press the Mode button once more. The current Frame Lock setting now shows. While it is showing, use the up or down arrows on the remote to change the Frame Lock setting.

If you see the current Gamma Correction setting, then you have pressed Mode once too many. Start over. If you see the audio processing mode displayed again then you have waited too long and the currently displayed "shortcut" has timed out. Just start over.

---------------------------------------

NOTE: The Anthem normally converts whatever video input it receives to the specific output resolution and frame rate you have specified in Setup / Video Output. Frame Lock = Auto changes that -- causing the Anthem to try to track the frame rate of the incoming video stream while still changing the output resolution (as necessary) to whatever resolution you have specified.

Your TV picture vanished because Frame Lock = Auto caused the Anthem to override your Setup / Video Output settings and use, instead, the video frame rate being generated by your source device. Apparently your TV is not able to accept that frame rate as valid input format.

So your TV picture will likely also return if you simply change the video output setting on that source device to one of the standard video resolutions/frame rates. I.e., 480i/60Hz, 720p/60Hz, or 1080i/60Hz output to the Anthem. Then you will once again be able to see the Video Source Adjust menu to turn off Frame Lock. After which you can change your source device's output back to whatever you prefer.

If your TV is *SUPPOSED* to be able to handle the frame rate you were sending it via Frame Lock = Auto, then you may have lost video due to a failure of the HDMI handshake. Each time the frame rate changes, a new handshake has to happen. Often, switching to a different source and back fixes things as this forces a new handshake. Sometimes you have to power cycle the display or the Anthem to fix a failed HDMI connection.
--Bob

Personally, I like the D2 over the AVM-50. For the things that are important to me, I like it over any other product or combo of products to be had right now.

If you can afford the extra bucks, I'd go with the D2.

If not, the AVM-50 is no slouch by any means. There really is no other pre/pro+video solution as good -- other than, of course, the D2. It's the "+video" part of that which makes the big difference here.

---------------------------------------------------------

Until the next, general software release from Anthem, you will need to get a recent firmware release from Anthem tech support for best performance from the PS3. There have also been some reports, with some versions of Anthem software, of the PS3 causing the video processor in the Anthem to overheat. I'm sure Anthem is working on whatever the PS3 is doing that's causing that. The workaround is an external fan over the Anthem or a different software release.

By the time your Anthem arrives, that will likely be resolved and you may just have to do a software install.

--------------------------------------------------------

There are frequent software upgrades for the AVM-50.

At this point, it appears the upcoming Room EQ upgrade will only be available for the D2. There is no confirmation of this from Anthem, however.
--Bob

My D2 is connected by balanced xlr connectors to an MCA50 Amp and with the volume turned all the way down there is an audible hiss coming from my tweeters. I did not notice this before with my Onkyo receiver. I unhooked my cable from my cable box to make sure it wasn't a ground loop problem and the noise did not change. Any ideas??

Check out the Hum FAQ sticky thread in the Audio Theory forum here -- in particular the EMI/RFI section of the first post.

"Hiss" interference often comes from things like dimmer switches and halogen lamps.
--Bob