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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 258

post #7711 of 42717
I have an HTPC hooked up via component at 1080i/30 (because I don't have a Gefen DVI thingie yet) to my D1-HD to my panasonic 1080p projector. My question is this: when using Gametap specifically, the output is always 16x9, even when the game is normally 4x3. (This is what I want, no? Have it render at the higher resolutions and let the Anthem scale?) I've played with all the settings in the 7 menu, and generally have a good understanding of this stuff, but I cannot for the life of me get the proper aspect ratio to appear on the screen. On my Samsung LCD, I only need press the ASPECT button on the remote and voila!, but I can't make the Anthem sqeeze the pixels for me! Can anybody tell me what I'm doing wrong here?



=)

-j
post #7712 of 42717
Also - I am running 1.12q and all video is being sent via HDMI to the projector.
post #7713 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by lazarus28 View Post

I have an HTPC hooked up via component at 1080i/30 (because I don't have a Gefen DVI thingie yet) to my D1-HD to my panasonic 1080p projector. My question is this: when using Gametap specifically, the output is always 16x9, even when the game is normally 4x3. (This is what I want, no? Have it render at the higher resolutions and let the Anthem scale?) I've played with all the settings in the 7 menu, and generally have a good understanding of this stuff, but I cannot for the life of me get the proper aspect ratio to appear on the screen. On my Samsung LCD, I only need press the ASPECT button on the remote and voila!, but I can't make the Anthem sqeeze the pixels for me! Can anybody tell me what I'm doing wrong here?



=)

-j

First, set your HTPC video output to believe it is talking to a 16:9 TV. If it is actually rendering graphics on the fly then it should render it at its highest resolution. If it is passing along pre-recorded stuff (such as playing a DVD) it should send that stuff along with as little change as possible. That means standard DVD content should be sent at 480i if possible. For 480i or 480p 4:3 content (old movies or DVDs of TV shows), the HTPC should be set as if to "uniformly stretch" the content to fill the 16:9 output frame left to right (circles look like wide ovals). I.e., don't have the HTPC generate pillar box bars around such stuff. This actually means the HTPC is not doing anything to that content. For 4:3 content that happens to be in a higher resolution frame, it's OK to do it either way, i.e., you could have the HTPC generate the pillar box bars much as if you were watching an SDTV program broadcast on an HDTV channel.

Finally, see if you can set the HTPC to send the appropriate HDMI flag to specify whether the content coming over is 16:9 or 4:3.

On the Anthem side, set Video Source Adjust / Crop Input = 16:9 if the content you are interested in seeing on screen is a 16:9 shape. Set 4:3 otherwise. If the HTPC sends the HDMI flag I just described the HDMI Auto setting will do this for you on the fly, but you can override the flag by setting it manually.

So basically the Crop Input setting specifies the portion of the input signal that's of interest to you -- which also specifies the input image shape.

Now your TV screen is 16:9. If the input is cropped to 16:9 then there's nothing that needs to be done.

If the input is cropped to 4:3 (or some custom shape as for example with a 2.35 aspect ratio movie) then you have to tell the Anthem what to do about the fact that the input shape doesn't match the 16:9 shape of your screen.

You could tell the Anthem to leave the input shape unaltered and to pad it out with blank imaging (usually black) to fill the 16:9 shape. That's Scale Out / Letter Pillar Box. Whether Letter Boxing or Pillar Boxing are applied depends on how the input shape compares to the 16:9 output shape. I.e. is it not wide enough or not tall enough.

Or you could tell the Anthem to uniformly stretch the input shape to fill the screen. That's Scale Out / Anamorphic. Whether vertical or horizontal stretching is done depends on how the input shape compares to the 16:9 output shape.

Another choice, Panoramic, fills the screen like Anamorphic but does it with non-uniform stretch so that the center of the image is less distorted and more of the distortion is concentrated away from the center.

When playing with cropping, it is easier to see what is going on if you set Scale Out / Letter Pillar Box. Once you've got the crop you want, you can switch to Anamorphic to have the Anthem stretch the image to fill the screen if you prefer. And remember that the source may be flagging the shape of the input video so if you have Crop Input / HDMI Auto set you might be confused until you understand what is going on.

Also remember that if you have the SOURCE generating letter or pillar box bars (something you should only do if the source is sending resolution higher than 480p) then those letter or pillar box bars are PART OF THE INPUT CONTENT. The Anthem can't know they have no useful imaging in them. But you know. And if you'd like you can set a Custom crop input setting.

EXAMPLE: The input source is a 16:9 movie embedded in a 4:3 frame (as if the movie was being broadcast letterboxed by an SDTV station) but that combo is also embedded in a 16:9 HDTV frame. The result is that the 16:9 movie floats in the middle of the screen with black around all 4 sides. And changing Scale Out / Anamorphic or Letter Pillar Box does not alter this because the Anthem sees a 16:9 input frame and doesn't know that this includes a wide black border all around the REAL movie image.

SOLUTION: Set a Crop Input / Custom setting which is 1440 pixels wide by 810 lines high. This will extract the 16:9 subset centered on a 4:3 SDTV image embedded in the middle of a 16:9 HDTV frame. Since this crop happens to have a 16:9 shape, it doesn't matter whether Scale Out is Anamorphic or Letter Pillar Box. The input shape already matches the 16:9 shape needed for output. So only the resolution will be scaled by the Anthem.

Finally remember that there are shortcuts to the Crop Input and Scale Out selections available under the Mode key of the remote. Press and Hold to get to Scale Out, then release (pause briefly) and press again for Crop Input, again for Frame Lock, and once more for Gamma Correction. The Up and Down arrows let you change whichever setting is currently being displayed. After a few seconds the setting will vanish and go back to just the normal, audio mode display.
--Bob
post #7714 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpcat View Post

Re: Sony bdp300.

You must power on the Sony and allow it to fully boot up with the AVM50 switched to another input (other than the bdp300). Then switch to the Sony input and it syncs up. This is the only way I've found it will work. After that, it works fine to switch back and forth or whatever. Once the Sony is powered off however, you must repeat the whole process again. It doesn't seem to matter whether HDMI repeater=on or off on the AVM50 so I've left mine off.

I'm running 1.11e on the AVM50.

That is the same sequence the Pioneer owners have to use
with the new Pioneer Software - version 3.40. Tolstoi discovered
this sequence while Pioneer works on the problem.

We know SONY and PIONEER share the same code - oh GOD
I'm not suppose to imply that

Rather than say share the same code - while don't we just
say they both have the same sets of problems.
post #7715 of 42717
I suspect there may be TWO problems here. First this power on sequence that the Sony and Pioneer software demand (silly engineers). And second, that at least the Sony may not work right unless HDMI Repeater = NO is functioning -- which it certainly is in the V1.11 software versions and apparently isn't in the V1.12 software versions. Only this second issue would justify Sony claiming their player is not designed to work with AVRs.
--Bob
post #7716 of 42717
Finally got my bass back to at least where it was prior to the AVM 50. Bass is awesome and in some respects tighter. Detail in the sound of movies is amazing. My surround channels sound like someone woke them up. I have calibrated the sound so it well balanced and it sounds like someone widened the room dimensions when I wasn't looking. If it sounds this good now, I can't wait for the better firmware and detailed tweaking that can be done. Oh, btw, the video is being downconverted to 720p, native resolution of pj, but picture looks more 3D.
Now to just watch a movie and forget tweaking, yeah right
post #7717 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

I suspect there may be TWO problems here. First this power on sequence that the Sony and Pioneer software demand (silly engineers). And second, that at least the Sony may not work right unless HDMI Repeater = NO is functioning -- which it certainly is in the V1.11 software versions and apparently isn't in the V1.12 software versions. Only this second issue would justify Sony claiming their player is not designed to work with AVRs.
--Bob

The Pioneers never had any problem until this
release #3 of the firmware. Version 1 and 2
were just fine. Nick debugged the problem
for Pioneer and Pioneer is working on a fix.
post #7718 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

First, set your HTPC video output to believe it is talking to a 16:9 TV. If it is actually rendering graphics on the fly then it should render it at its highest resolution. If it is passing along pre-recorded stuff (such as playing a DVD) it should send that stuff along with as little change as possible. That means standard DVD content should be sent at 480i if possible. For 480i or 480p 4:3 content (old movies or DVDs of TV shows), the HTPC should be set as if to "uniformly stretch" the content to fill the 16:9 output frame left to right (circles look like wide ovals). I.e., don't have the HTPC generate pillar box bars around such stuff. This actually means the HTPC is not doing anything to that content. For 4:3 content that happens to be in a higher resolution frame, it's OK to do it either way, i.e., you could have the HTPC generate the pillar box bars much as if you were watching an SDTV program broadcast on an HDTV channel.

Finally, see if you can set the HTPC to send the appropriate HDMI flag to specify whether the content coming over is 16:9 or 4:3.

On the Anthem side, set Video Source Adjust / Crop Input = 16:9 if the content you are interested in seeing on screen is a 16:9 shape. Set 4:3 otherwise. If the HTPC sends the HDMI flag I just described the HDMI Auto setting will do this for you on the fly, but you can override the flag by setting it manually.

So basically the Crop Input setting specifies the portion of the input signal that's of interest to you -- which also specifies the input image shape.

Now your TV screen is 16:9. If the input is cropped to 16:9 then there's nothing that needs to be done.

If the input is cropped to 4:3 (or some custom shape as for example with a 2.35 aspect ratio movie) then you have to tell the Anthem what to do about the fact that the input shape doesn't match the 16:9 shape of your screen.

You could tell the Anthem to leave the input shape unaltered and to pad it out with blank imaging (usually black) to fill the 16:9 shape. That's Scale Out / Letter Pillar Box. Whether Letter Boxing or Pillar Boxing are applied depends on how the input shape compares to the 16:9 output shape. I.e. is it not wide enough or not tall enough.

Or you could tell the Anthem to uniformly stretch the input shape to fill the screen. That's Scale Out / Anamorphic. Whether vertical or horizontal stretching is done depends on how the input shape compares to the 16:9 output shape.

Another choice, Panoramic, fills the screen like Anamorphic but does it with non-uniform stretch so that the center of the image is less distorted and more of the distortion is concentrated away from the center.

When playing with cropping, it is easier to see what is going on if you set Scale Out / Letter Pillar Box. Once you've got the crop you want, you can switch to Anamorphic to have the Anthem stretch the image to fill the screen if you prefer. And remember that the source may be flagging the shape of the input video so if you have Crop Input / HDMI Auto set you might be confused until you understand what is going on.

Also remember that if you have the SOURCE generating letter or pillar box bars (something you should only do if the source is sending resolution higher than 480p) then those letter or pillar box bars are PART OF THE INPUT CONTENT. The Anthem can't know they have no useful imaging in them. But you know. And if you'd like you can set a Custom crop input setting.

EXAMPLE: The input source is a 16:9 movie embedded in a 4:3 frame (as if the movie was being broadcast letterboxed by an SDTV station) but that combo is also embedded in a 16:9 HDTV frame. The result is that the 16:9 movie floats in the middle of the screen with black around all 4 sides. And changing Scale Out / Anamorphic or Letter Pillar Box does not alter this because the Anthem sees a 16:9 input frame and doesn't know that this includes a wide black border all around the REAL movie image.

SOLUTION: Set a Crop Input / Custom setting which is 1440 pixels wide by 810 lines high. This will extract the 16:9 subset centered on a 4:3 SDTV image embedded in the middle of a 16:9 HDTV frame. Since this crop happens to have a 16:9 shape, it doesn't matter whether Scale Out is Anamorphic or Letter Pillar Box. The input shape already matches the 16:9 shape needed for output. So only the resolution will be scaled by the Anthem.

Finally remember that there are shortcuts to the Crop Input and Scale Out selections available under the Mode key of the remote. Press and Hold to get to Scale Out, then release (pause briefly) and press again for Crop Input, again for Frame Lock, and once more for Gamma Correction. The Up and Down arrows let you change whichever setting is currently being displayed. After a few seconds the setting will vanish and go back to just the normal, audio mode display.
--Bob

Thank you very much, Bob! However, maybe I should be a bit more specific: All application being done on the PC are being rendered on the fly, ie - no prerecorded content. (I have a PS3 and XA-2 for that) I shouldn't have called it an HTPC because it isn't used for HT at all, just gaming in the HT.

Secondly - I want to play all the games in their proper aspect ratios (most of which are 4x3). The issue is that the PC knows it is sending to a 16x9 display, so it renders it using the fat-pixels-stretched-look. I want the Anthem to undo that. If I change the crop to 4x3 in the Anthem, I lose a huge portion of the image. I need the Anthem to get a 16x9 image with fat pixels at 1080i/30, then to have the pixels re-sqeezed with black bars on the left and right. So, the anthem would be getting a 16x9 rendering of a 4x3 signal, and re-sqeezing the pixels to the proper 4x3 shape.

Does this make any sense or am I plumb loco?
post #7719 of 42717
A better explanation (maybe):

You know how you are supposed to set a cable box to send the unaltered image to the Anthem with the fat-pixel stretch, then set the Anthem to "letterbox/pillar" so that the black bars et generated by the Anthem and the sqeeze is applied?

I want that with a 1080i/30 input signal. (but only sometimes!) Is that possible? I don't mind going into the 7 menu and changing the aspect ratio manually every time.

I thought that was all I would have to do to get it to work, but it does nothing to the signal at all. It works with 480 sources. Can it only do it up to 480?
post #7720 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by lazarus28 View Post

A better explanation (maybe):

You know how you are supposed to set a cable box to send the unaltered image to the Anthem with the fat-pixel stretch, then set the Anthem to "letterbox/pillar" so that the black bars et generated by the Anthem and the sqeeze is applied?

I want that with a 1080i/30 input signal. (but only sometimes!) Is that possible? I don't mind going into the 7 menu and changing the aspect ratio manually every time.

I thought that was all I would have to do to get it to work, but it does nothing to the signal at all. It works with 480 sources. Can it only do it up to 480?

It sounds like your gaming setup is already doing Anamorphic stretch to scale the 4:3 game content to a 16:9 shape as it renders it. It is then telling the Anthem that the input is 16:9.

This is the equivalent of an HDTV channel broadcasting an SDTV program but stretching it out to fill the screen left to right.

The Anthem won't resqueeze that unless you set it's video output resolution to a 4:3 shape, which you probably shouldn't do.

So instead, tell your gaming setup that it is talking to a 16:9 TV but you want it to generate pilllar boxes around the 4:3 game content it is producing. This is not a problem if it is both rendering and sending high resolution video to the Anthem (there are plenty of high res pixels that can be used to hold those pillar box bars). That should do it for you. In the Anthem you would then want Crop Input / 16:9 (or HDMI Auto) and Scale Out doesn't matter.
--Bob
post #7721 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

It sounds like your gaming setup is already doing Anamorphic stretch to scale the 4:3 game content to a 16:9 shape as it renders it. It is then telling the Anthem that the input is 16:9.

This is the equivalent of an HDTV channel broadcasting an SDTV program but stretching it out to fill the screen left to right.

The Anthem won't resqueeze that unless you set it's video output resolution to a 4:3 shape, which you probably shouldn't do.

So instead, tell your gaming setup that it is talking to a 16:9 TV but you want it to generate pilllar boxes around the 4:3 game content it is producing. This is not a problem if it is both rendering and sending high resolution video to the Anthem (there are plenty of high res pixels that can be used to hold those pillar box bars). That should do it for you. In the Anthem you would then want Crop Input / 16:9 (or HDMI Auto) and Scale Out doesn't matter.
--Bob

That's the answer I was looking for. Now, off to another forum to find out how to make the video card or Gametap software do that!

Thanks very much for the help!
post #7722 of 42717
Well, has anyone played around with using the PS3 to play SA-CD's? I'm going to have to get all my SA-CD players out of the closet and compare them because the one I am using now sounds like a boom-box compared to the PS3 (over HDMI). Plus I don't think I have the PS3 set to the optimum output (it was 88 KHz - I think it will do 192 KHz). A nice surprise. Just curious if anyone else has tried this with their D1/D2/AVM50 (and what their opinion was)...
post #7723 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by nine ball View Post

Has anyone upgraded from 1.6 to 2.0 for the XA2 ?? If so did it work without incident? What version of D2 software are you running?

Peter

It downloaded and installed easier than all prior versions. Unfortunately I notice an occasional drop out, even though it was rock solid in prior releases (for me).
post #7724 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe C5 View Post

Well, has anyone played around with using the PS3 to play SA-CD's? I'm going to have to get all my SA-CD players out of the closet and compare them because the one I am using now sounds like a boom-box compared to the PS3 (over HDMI). Plus I don't think I have the PS3 set to the optimum output (it was 88 KHz - I think it will do 192 KHz). A nice surprise. Just curious if anyone else has tried this with their D1/D2/AVM50 (and what their opinion was)...

We've had some very good comments on SACD from the PS3. In fact some feel they can hear an improvement over SACD from the Oppo 970 (again over HDMI) which is also no slouch.

Keep in mind that you need to have the PS3's HDMI output resolution set to 720p or higher or you won't be able to get the full multi-channel audio set to fit in the HDMI signal (HDMI audio is multiplexed into the video signal so the max audio bandwidth is limited to a percentage of the current video bandwidth). This is likely what you are already doing with the PS3, but some Oppo users have been confused by this when they had their Oppo set to HDMI 480i output for standard DVDs and then tried to play SACD or DVD-Audio.
--Bob
post #7725 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

We've had some very good comments on SACD from the PS3. In fact some feel they can hear an improvement over SACD from the Oppo 970 (again over HDMI) which is also no slouch.

Keep in mind that you need to have the PS3's HDMI output resolution set to 720p or higher or you won't be able to get the full multi-channel audio set to fit in the HDMI signal (HDMI audio is multiplexed into the video signal so the max audio bandwidth is limited to a percentage of the current video bandwidth). This is likely what you are already doing with the PS3, but some Oppo users have been confused by this when they had their Oppo set to HDMI 480i output for standard DVDs and then tried to play SACD or DVD-Audio.
--Bob

Bob,

I finally finished the audio setup of my D2 with the Oppo 970. While I was playing a few DVD-Audio and SACD discs, I noticed that Brothers In Arms (DVD-Audio) was coming in at 6 channel 48 and Dark Side of the Moon (SACD) was coming in at 6 channel 88.2, even though I had the Oppo set to 480i over HDMI. I actually forgot to change the Oppo to a higher res. Does this make sense?

Buddy
post #7726 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by randman View Post

Earlier, I had the problem where pressing a cursor key once would act as if I had pressed the key twice. The following are the new versions of the cursor keys that I use with my Pronto TSU7000. They work fine for me. FYI, just in case it makes a difference (very very rare, but possible), I am not using IR out of my TSU7000. I use RF, and then the RFX6500 converts it to IR and passes it on to my Anthem D2.

Cursor Up
------------
0000 0071 0000 0022 0136 0096 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03B8


Cursor Down
----------------

0000 0071 0000 0022 0136 0096 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03B8


Cursor Left
--------------

0000 0071 0000 0022 0136 0096 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03B8

Cursor Right
----------------

0000 0071 0000 0022 0136 0096 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0045 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 0017 03B8


Hope these work for you.

Randman,

Thank you. Unfortunately these are the same codes I am working with, so it looks like I am going to need two remotes which really sucks. I almost threw the remote across the house. This is so frustrating!
post #7727 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcljones View Post

Bob,

I finally finished the audio setup of my D2 with the Oppo 970. While I was playing a few DVD-Audio and SACD discs, I noticed that Brothers In Arms (DVD-Audio) was coming in at 6 channel 48 and Dark Side of the Moon (SACD) was coming in at 6 channel 88.2, even though I had the Oppo set to 480i over HDMI. I actually forgot to change the Oppo to a higher res. Does this make sense?

Buddy

Well I suppose it's possible that Oppo has finally put in the stuff to handle this automatically, but I'm surprised.

What does Video Source Adjust / Info say you are receiving as video input resolution from the Oppo when you are playing these?
--Bob
post #7728 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by ANSEK View Post

Randman,

Thank you. Unfortunately these are the same codes I am working with, so it looks like I am going to need two remotes which really sucks. I almost threw the remote across the house. This is so frustrating!

I don't have one of the remotes you are using but the usual problem with this sort of thing is what's called the "Repeat Count". Some devices need to see a code sequence more than once before they believe it. But the Anthem is quick enough to respond to a code sequence even if it sees it just once. So see if you can turn down the Repeat Count in your remote -- the number of times it repeats each code sequence it sends.

Also go into the Anthem Setup menu and make sure you have turned off the IR inputs you are not using. Your remote may be blasting a strong enough signal that it is not only being seen by the front IR input but is shining through the vent holes and is being picked up by the rear IR inputs.

See page 38 of the Anthem manual.
--Bob
post #7729 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

It was previously confirmed (by Anthem) that the HDMI V1.3 output of the PS3 could cause the video processor in the Anthem to overheat in at least some of the V1.11 software versions. The symptom was that the overheating video processor in the Anthem repeatedly crashed and reset itself -- periodic loss of video. The workaround for folks bitten by this was to provide an external fan over the Anthem to increase the cooling of the video processor.

I forget which posters here had this problem, but I'd like to hear from any of you as to whether you STILL need an external fan when using the PS3 as input under the Anthem V1.12s "test" software version.

On the contrary, if any users who were having NO SUCH problems with the PS3 have now discovered that they NEED to add an external fan with V1.12s, that too would be useful information.
--Bob

I am pleased to report that with 1.12s on the D2 and 1.82 on the PS3 I no longer experience heat-related VP crashes. This is with the added cooling fans off, static fresh air around the unit, warm (79F) room. Actually, I left the unpowered 120mm fan sitting on top of the unit impeding convection somewhat, so this was actually a slightly worse condition. Previously (1.11g) I would get a VP crash every 10 seconds or so under similar conditions. The top of the case still feels very hot, so I will run the cooling fan anyway as cooler is better.

Now if only Anthem could fix my "static pops" on PCM inputs...
post #7730 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3no View Post

I am pleased to report that with 1.12s on the D2 and 1.82 on the PS3 I no longer experience heat-related VP crashes. This is with the added cooling fans off, static fresh air around the unit, warm (79F) room. Actually, I left the unpowered 120mm fan sitting on top of the unit impeding convection somewhat, so this was actually a slightly worse condition. Previously (1.11g) I would get a VP crash every 10 seconds or so under similar conditions. The top of the case still feels very hot, so I will run the cooling fan anyway as cooler is better.

Now if only Anthem could fix my "static pops" on PCM inputs...

That's good news on the PS3 support! Thanks for checking. I must admit I'm curious what Anthem had to do to fix this.

Remind me what your issue was with "static pops". Any chance you have a source of electrical interference that might be screwing up the incoming PCM?
--Bob
post #7731 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Remind me what your issue was with "static pops". Any chance you have a source of electrical interference that might be screwing up the incoming PCM?
--Bob

Thanks for your interest - I'll take any advice or try any diagnostics you can think of. For details, including a sound sample and waveforms, see post #5515.

Nick is stumped so far, but is trying to send me serial control software and instructions to send a string to the D2 to see if that makes a difference. He refers to it as the "ex_rename trick". However, Anthem has been unable to send the software successfully as any email with the attachment doesn't go thru (to me, my wife, my work or my dealer, even though firmware updates as an attachments go thru fine). Frank has snail-mailed the software to my dealer but it hasn't arrived yet. You don't happen to have the serial control software they are trying to send, do you? If so, please PM me and we'll find a way to transfer it electronically...

Also, here's additional info on the ticks that I sent to Nick:
More information for you, trying all combinations of PS3 settings for disc audio track selection (Dolby Digital or PCM Uncompressed tracks on Casino Royale) and PS3-D2 HDMI audio format (bitstream or PCM):

track HDMI ticks?
------ ---------- --------
DD bitstream no
DD PCM yes
PCM bitstream yes
PCM PCM yes

So if the source is DD and the decoding is done in the D2, then no ticks. If the D2 receives PCM (either from the disk source being unencoded or the decoding being done in the PS3) then I get ticks.
post #7732 of 42717
Thanks for the responses on the PS3. I will have to do some experimenting today...

3no - Nick never did send me the serial tool either (maybe something amiss on his end?). However I was able to find a tool on the internet. I will find out what it was when I get back later today... (And by the way, do you possibly leave the sound up on your TV at the same time? - my Sony does that a lot if I foget to turn it down).
post #7733 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe C5 View Post

3no - Nick never did send me the serial tool either (maybe something amiss on his end?). However I was able to find a tool on the internet. I will find out what it was when I get back later today... (And by the way, do you possibly leave the sound up on your TV at the same time? - my Sony does that a lot if I foget to turn it down).

Yeah, I think it's on his end - he couldn't get it thru to my dealer, wife, or office either - all on separate ISPs.

What problem were you trying to solve with the serial tool? Do you know what ex_rename is or the serial string to send to do it? His instructions were in the same zip file as the serial utility so I don't have those either. Thanks for checking on the web link.

My D2 feeds a projector, so I can't have the TV sound problem you referenced.
post #7734 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by ANSEK View Post

I am having the darnedest time trying to get the navigation buttons to work properly through my Pronto Pro NG TSU7000. It doesn't matter if I use the configuration file from the Anthem website or the configuration file posted by Randy or I learn the codes directly from my Anthem remote, the codes do not work properly with my D2. I have to hit the navigation buttons 9 or 10 times to get the cursor to move and when it moves it does not move a consistent distance. Sometimes it move one spot sometimes it move three spots or sometimes it moves five spots.

Am I the one person having this issue? Can some suggest solutions other than buying a new remote.

How are the OTHER Parameters for the Cursor Keys
in your pronto set - such as duration. etc?
post #7735 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

How are the OTHER Parameters for the Cursor Keys
in your pronto set - such as duration. etc?


My duration is set to "Default". I have experimented with values from .01 to .5 seconds. All with no luck.

Any other settings you recommend I check out?
post #7736 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by ANSEK View Post

My duration is set to "Default". I have experimented with values from .01 to .5 seconds. All with no luck.

Any other settings you recommend I check out?

I'm firing up my Pronto Editor now to see what else I
might Suggest.
post #7737 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by ANSEK View Post

My duration is set to "Default". I have experimented with values from .01 to .5 seconds. All with no luck.

Any other settings you recommend I check out?

I didn't find any other parameters that I thought
might effect your problem.

I assume you are using IR versus RF?

I assume the Anthem remote works.

If Anthem works - I would suspect the Pronto.
post #7738 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3no View Post

Yeah, I think it's on his end - he couldn't get it thru to my dealer, wife, or office either - all on separate ISPs.

What problem were you trying to solve with the serial tool? Do you know what ex_rename is or the serial string to send to do it? His instructions were in the same zip file as the serial utility so I don't have those either. Thanks for checking on the web link.

My D2 feeds a projector, so I can't have the TV sound problem you referenced.

This is where I got the serial program:
http://www.scaleprogrammers.com/rs-232_monitor.htm
My problem was the occasional shutdown during power-up (since mostly fixed in the latest release). I think the EXE_rename thing is just that he was going to send the file as xxx.EXE_rename and we were supposed to rename it to xxx.exe. In my case he sent a single command to spit out a bunch of data while the unit is running (he may have a different one for you - mine began with an @).
Since I now have a PS3 (though I use the evil Pioneer for most things) if I get a chance I will see if I can reproduce it (any specifics?).
post #7739 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3no View Post

Thanks for your interest - I'll take any advice or try any diagnostics you can think of. For details, including a sound sample and waveforms, see post #5515.

This is certainly bizarre.

The first thing to do is to eliminate any possible external interference source, as well as the signal path in the Anthem that transfers HDMI PCM to the rest of the audio system. The way to do that is to try a different HDMI PCM source device.

The simplest would be any HDMI CD player -- an Oppo 970 for example, but it could be whatever your Anthem dealer can loan you to try at home. HDMI CD playback is 2-channel PCM. [Optical audio cable playback of CDs is also 2-channel PCM, and it would be useful to know if the ticks also appear when hooked up that way, but let's stick to HDMI for now to cut down the number of variables.]

So play a music CD on the PS3 and see if you still get the ticks when the Anthem is receiving that 2 channel HDMI PCM. Then play the same CD on the different HDMI CD player -- keeping the rest of the setup as close to identical as possible (same location, same power source, same HDMI cable to the Anthem) and see if the ticks go away.

If you can't get ticks when the PS3 is playing CDs, that implies an issue with the multi-channel PCM path (as opposed to 2-channel PCM) and we can try some experiments there. For example does the presence of ticks depend on the video output resolution from the PS3?

If you get ticks from both the PS3 *AND* the different CD player, that implies either some external interference source, or a broken PCM data path from the HDMI receiver of the Anthem to the rest of the Anthem audio circuitry and we can try some experiments there. For example, take your PS3 and Anthem to the dealer (along with the different CD player) and see if ticks appear on your Anthem hooked up in his shop, and then on a DIFFERENT Anthem hooked up in his shop. To confirm, also try the different CD player. No ticks either way means an external interference source in your house. Ticks on your Anthem but not on the different Anthem in his shop means your Anthem is broken. Ticks on BOTH Anthems in his shop will be the nastiest situation, since that implies a processing bug in the Anthems.

But if you get ticks from the PS3 and no ticks from the different CD player in your home setup, that implies the PS3 is broken (or there is an error in your setup of the PS3). To confirm this you would need to (1) try your PS3 with a different HDMI receiver to see if the ticks are still there, and (2) try a new PS3 with your Anthem to see if the ticks go away.

-----------------------------------------

I don't have the Serial tool Nick is offering, and I don't know what the EX_Rename command string might be.
--Bob

[EDITED to clarify a bit.]
post #7740 of 42717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

This is certainly bizarre.

The first thing to do is to eliminate any possible external interference source, as well as the signal path in the Anthem that transfers HDMI PCM to the rest of the audio system. The way to do that is to try a different HDMI PCM source device.

The simplest would be any HDMI CD player -- an Oppo 970 for example, but it could be whatever your Anthem dealer can loan you to try at home. HDMI CD playback is 2-channel PCM. [Optical audio cable playback of CDs is also 2-channel PCM, and it would be useful to know if the ticks also appear when hooked up that way, but let's stick to HDMI for now to cut down the number of variables.]

So play a music CD on the PS3 and see if you still get the ticks when the Anthem is receiving that 2 channel PCM. Then play the same CD on the different HDMI CD player -- keeping the rest of the setup as close to identical as possible (same location, same power source, same HDMI cable to the Anthem) and see if the ticks to away.

If you can't get ticks when the PS3 is playing CDs, that implies an issue with the multi-channel PCM path (as opposed to 2-channel PCM) and we can try some experiments there. For example does the presence of ticks depend on the video output resolution from the PS3?

If you get ticks from both the PS3 *AND* the different CD player, that implies either some external interference source, or a broken PCM data path from the HDMI receiver of the Anthem to the rest of the Anthem audio circuitry and we can try some experiments there. For example, take your PS3 and Anthem to the dealer (along with the different CD player) and see if ticks appear on your Anthem hooked up in his shop, and then on a DIFFERENT Anthem hooked up in his shop. To confirm, also try the different CD player. No ticks either way means an external interference source in your house. Ticks on your Anthem but not on the different Anthem in his shop means your Anthem is broken. Ticks on BOTH Anthems in his shop will be the nastiest situation, since that implies a processing bug in the Anthems.

But if you get ticks from the PS3 and no ticks from the different CD player, that implies the PS3 is broken. To confirm this you would need to (1) try your PS3 with a different HDMI receiver to see if the ticks are still there, and (2) try a new PS3 with your Anthem to see if the ticks go away.

-----------------------------------------

I don't have the Serial tool Nick is offering, and I don't know what the EX_Rename command string might be.
--Bob

In the past I too had click problems with my D2 when using my Tvix 4100sh and an external usb dvd rom drive..

When I played my oppo, tvix, got clicks in PCM stream, 5 or 2 channel.. But, PS3 was fine....

Found the problem was my dvd usb drive for the Tvix.. I had it plugged into the same extension cable as the tvix.. When I unplugged the drive, or unhooked the usb cable, the clicks went away..

So, I plugged the usb drive into it's own AC plug, and boom.. all worked awesome with oppo, tvix.. No clicks..

Seemed like a ground issue was messing up the D2 with it's Digital board..


So for you FYI, I had the clicks with coax digital also..
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