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Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide - Page 30

post #871 of 40782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

nkb,
Which series of Fujitsu plasma are you using?

Since you are connecting HDMI to HDMI from the D2 it must be a 40 series or newer.

I'm using a Fujitsu P50, 30 series which has an HDCP compliant DVI input instead of an HDMI input and I've had no problems making that connection work, although it took the V1.06 D2 software to make the connection stable.

The Fujitsu 30 series has a menu item for setting options on the inputs. For example, you need to set the DVI input to "DVI2" mode instead of "DVI1" in order to tell that Fujitsu to expect "Studio RGB" as from a home theater set top box or something like the D2. Otherwise it expects the type of digital RGB coding used by typical computer graphics cards.

Check for a similar menu item in your Fujitsu and compare against the manual to see if there are any changes that might help.

One possibility is that the Fujitsu is set to demand RGB but is actually seeing YPbPr from the D2 or vice versa. A mismatch of YPbPr 4:2:2 vs. 4:4:4, or even a mismatch of encoding bit depth is also possible. Usually source and destination devices are set to allow a variety of choices here, and so a match will be found automatically during the handshake. But if the D2 is set to force one style of output and the Fujitsu is set to demand a different style as input, then the HDMI connection will not complete. Your other source devices, on the other hand, may be set to switch automatically to whatever the Fujitsu demands. If that's the case then the workaround is to adjust the D2 and Fujitsu settings to match.

Another possibility is to try different output resolutions from the D2. Perhaps the timing is off just enough in the resolution you are trying to use that the Fujitsu doesn't see a signal it can handle so it never even TRIES to complete the HDMI/HDCP handshake. Keep it simple and do your testing at 720x480p for now.

For the handshake to complete the source and destination must be HDCP compliant (not likely the problem in your case) and the source and destination must reach agreement on resolution and data encoding. The destination must see a resolution that it knows how to handle. The source queries the destination as to what it is willing to accept as encoding (given its current user settings) and then the source sees if it can do that, given ITS current user settings. If the user settings restrict either end so much as to prevent agreement, then you get no connection.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Using the D2 in its default HDMI configuration and the Fujitsu in ITS default HDMI configuration this really shouldn't be this tough.

So I've got to ask one other question -- please don't be offended: Are you sure you have the output HDMI cable from the D2 actually plugged into the D2's HDMI output socket and not into one of it's input sockets? Does your Fujitsu have an HDMI output socket for some sort of pass through? If so, are you sure you have the HDMI cable from the D2 plugged into the Fujitsu's input socket?

Another possibility is bad seating of the HDMI plug in its socket at either or both ends. Try this: With a friend to help, have him grasp the HDMI plugged into the D2 and have him hold it in place, pressing firmly straight into the socket, while you see if you can get a connection. Don't pull it out and re-insert it, just hold it firmly inserted making sure the plug is going straight in and is not drooping or being pulled to either side. Now do the same thing at the Fujitsu end. These HDMI connectors need to be fully inserted and it is often the case that connection problems are simply due to the plug being slightly offset in the jack. The plug is just a friction fit -- no locking mechanism -- so it is easy for it to become mis-seated if you slide equipment around after inserting it for example. People who buy fancy HDMI cables with heavy wire also frequently find that just the weight of the wire is enough to mis-seat the plug in the jack so that there is no connection.

You may need to support the weight of the cable at the Fujitsu end to keep the plug properly seated in the jack.
--Bob

The Fujitsu is the P50XTA51UB (black frame), just released.

The HDMI input works fine from SAT or DVD (HDMI to HDMI). This using the same cable that I am trying from the D2 to the plasma. In fact, I don't change the plasma input side I just hook it up to three different sources (D2, SAT, DVD) individually to test. "Certifying HDMI" appears for the SAT and DVD, but not the D2.

No, I am not offended, but the D2 is hooked up at Video OUT (not IN).

The D2 HDMI jack has a lot of free play. I have (carefully) held the D2 HDMI cable connection in place while observing if anything happens. Nothing happens.

I have set the D2 Video out resolution to 1080i, 720p, 480p all with the same result: Nothing. No handshake.

______________

Just now:


One can visually inspect the HDMI jacks/plugs. I hate to say it but the Video out looks damaged. So the one insertion was bad enough to kill it.

I was originally using a Ram electronics HDMI cable and that apparently got damaged or caused damage. Replaced it with a Radio Shack HDMI cable (could get locally). This now appears to me to be damaged as well. It looks like a "spreading infection" once I had a bad jack or cable in the system it would manage to wreck whatever it touched.

However, I inspected the HDMI jacks on my SAT and DVD and they seem just fine. They also appear to be more robustly designed than the ones on the Anthem.

1. It looks like I need another D2 video out jack. Unfortunately, Anthem told me I had to pay next time.

2. Throw away all my existing HDMI cables and replace.

3. In the future, before using any HDMI cable/jack inspect it carefully for any anomalies. Just because a cable works in one configuration does not mean that it is OK. This is what I have experienced. Cable between the Fujitsu and SAT, Fujitsu and DVD, was OK. However, this same cable appears to have damaged the new D2 jack (the damage most likely having been inflicted on the cable by the previous D2).

4. The tolerances on the HDMI jacks must not be the same. They feel differently and they (obviously) do not have the same robustness of design/manufacture. I really think Anthem needs to review its supplier for the D2 HDMI jacks. The ones on my Marantz and SAT look better made.

I am not a "ham-fisted" consumer. I'm a physicist, software engineer, and have regularly delved into the guts of computer hardware. If I am getting "bit" like this I can only imagine what is in store for the average consumer. That, or perhaps the D2 jacks, as I have noted are sub-standard.

In Anthem's own words:

"These connections are evidently too delicate for the real world, but there's not much we can do about it except put a warning both in the manual and right on the HDMI jacks on the rear panel in such a way that it's impossible to ignore.

Now that defective units have returned and we can diagnose them, it turns out in several cases that a shorted or otherwise mechanically-damaged HDMI jack or jacks is very simply the problem."
post #872 of 40782
Prior to upgrading my D2 to v1.06, the HDMI & component outputs were working. I connected my D2 and PC using a Windows WHQL-certified serial/USB adapter. I confirmed they were connected okay by retrieving and uploading settings to/from my PC. When I ran the v1.06 installer, things were working fine for about 20 minutes, then I got the message: "FPGA configurator programming failed". After that, my HDMI & component outputs stopped working. I can no longer enter the Video menu (button 7). I tried all sorts of permutations (particularly in menu 8), and no luck. Applying v1.04 and v1.00 also resulted in "FPGA configurator programming failed". So, now, HDMI & component out don't work. Plus, the S-Video output flickers every 1 to 2 seconds now. Anyone had this problem?
post #873 of 40782
Quote:
Originally Posted by nkb View Post

I don't have another HDMI display in the house. I will have to trek back to the dealer to test this.

I picked up the D2 at the Dealer's offices but not showroom so no equipment to test with. The showroom is another 30 minutes away ... I was optimistic that the new D2 was going to work... it will now take additional trips and more time.

When your next D2 comes asked them to set it up in the show room and drive extra 30 min
also bring your new cables with you, so they could test them for you
I'm sorry to hear about your Jack
Order new set of Blue Jeans Cables
Their jacks look really solid
Matt
post #874 of 40782
Next time you talk to Anthem ask why this problem seems to be much more prevalent on the D2. As I said earlier every HDMI device I own and most I've seen in other places have a screw holding the jack above it. I can't help but believe this is a design flaw on Anthem's part.
post #875 of 40782
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

For some reason the new V1.06 software disables the Color and Hue input Video Source Adjustment / Picture settings for HDMI inputs. Shifting Color and Hue in the D2 to either end of their range has no effect whatsoever, whereas they worked just fine in V1.00. That means any color/hue adjustments have to be made either in the source device or at the display. I don't know if this is a new bug or if they decided it has to be this way for some reason.
--Bob

Bob. That point was really surprising to me. Since I'm using 1.06, I just went in my HT to try moving those (color and hue adjustments), and it was clearly working for me.

I never move those sliders since I'm already at the sweet spot, but color saturation was going down almost to black and white, and really oversaturated over 50. Same thing with hue that was working like it should.

Did you try re-installing the firmware 1.06? Also, you should always reset the D2 to factory defaults each time after upgrading the firmware, before re-loading your custom settings.
post #876 of 40782
Quote:
Originally Posted by randman View Post

Prior to upgrading my D2 to v1.06, the HDMI & component outputs were working. I connected my D2 and PC using a Windows WHQL-certified serial/USB adapter. I confirmed they were connected okay by retrieving and uploading settings to/from my PC. When I ran the v1.06 installer, things were working fine for about 20 minutes, then I got the message: "FPGA configurator programming failed". After that, my HDMI & component outputs stopped working. I can no longer enter the Video menu (button 7). I tried all sorts of permutations (particularly in menu 8), and no luck. Applying v1.04 and v1.00 also resulted in "FPGA configurator programming failed". So, now, HDMI & component out don't work. Plus, the S-Video output flickers every 1 to 2 seconds now. Anyone had this problem?

Upgrade shouldn't take 20 min
Did your computers screen saver came on
If yes this may cause interruption of the software upgrade
post #877 of 40782
I have carefully compared the HDMI jacks on the D2 and my Marantz DV9600.

The Marantz jack has "interference spring pins" on both the bottom and top of the jack. These help to locate the cable end, minimizing free play, and also help to lock the cable in place.

The D2 jacks only have these "interference spring pins" on one side, not both. This leads to free play and a lack of guiding the cable end into position. More importantly, it also tends to "push" the cable end asymmetrically against the HDMI pin wafer. This uneven mechanical loading is just asking for trouble and I believe a major contributor to the multiple failures that have been experienced. (I might even offer Anthem to run an FEA analysis and demonstrate this to them). This uneven loading is borne out by the fact that the damage to the HDMI wafer pins are only on the underside exactly where the asymmetric loading is applied. The other side is undamaged. The Marantz jack is clearly of superior design and construction compared to ones used in the D2.

I think Anthem needs to revisit this issue. It is costing both them and us (the end user) by using what appear to be clearly sub-standard and poorly designed jacks. They have had numerous support issues and returned units just because of these failures.

In the meantime, if you haven't already been put on notice, inspect all of your cables and get rid of them if anything appears amiss. You might also inspect your existing HDMI jacks for any anomalies as well, as the problem WILL spread if not remedied. Remember a functioning cable does not mean it is necessarily OK. It may have damage that can spread.
post #878 of 40782
Levesque,
I have not tried re-installing the V1.06 firmware. The original installation and verification of he V1.06 firmware worked just fine, so I'm not inclined to futz with it again until the next version comes out.

Today I set up daytime configurations along with my original darkened room configurations, and I verified again that NEITHER the D2's Color input setting nor its Hue (Tint) setting has any effect in my configuration. Both worked as expected with the original V1.00 software that came on my unit.

I can think of a few possible reasons why it would work for you and not for me. For example my display has only a DVI input, which means I have to send it RGB instead of YPbPr.

I'm sure this is just a new bug that will be simple for Anthem to fix.
--Bob
post #879 of 40782
Quote:
Originally Posted by randman View Post

Prior to upgrading my D2 to v1.06, the HDMI & component outputs were working. I connected my D2 and PC using a Windows WHQL-certified serial/USB adapter. I confirmed they were connected okay by retrieving and uploading settings to/from my PC. When I ran the v1.06 installer, things were working fine for about 20 minutes, then I got the message: "FPGA configurator programming failed". After that, my HDMI & component outputs stopped working. I can no longer enter the Video menu (button 7). I tried all sorts of permutations (particularly in menu 8), and no luck. Applying v1.04 and v1.00 also resulted in "FPGA configurator programming failed". So, now, HDMI & component out don't work. Plus, the S-Video output flickers every 1 to 2 seconds now. Anyone had this problem?

rand... are all of your HDMI components off when you try to upgrade.... if not they need to be.
post #880 of 40782
randman,
You should probably just try running the upgrade again. Programming non-volatile memory like this can be a bit tricky, which is why there is a verification pass to make sure it took.

But if this is the first time you've updated the firmware in your D2, it is also possible that there is a fault in the circuit that drives the re-programming of that particular component.
--Bob
post #881 of 40782
Saga sung way down low.....

I did a first pass at base configuration today. Things worked pretty much as expected.

I used the D2's one, built-in, parametric filter to squash a room resonance around 38 Hz, and split the subwoofer's D2 crossover setting from the crossover setting of the rest of the speakers to squash another room resonance in the range of roughly 75 to 95 Hz.

[All this is using a cheap sub that will be replaced soon.]

First listening tests are promising.

One gotcha to watch out for: The D2 has an LFE bypass option which, when set, runs the LFE data around the crossover network. This is useful if you set your sub's crossover below 80 Hz so that you don't lose LFE content above the crossover point (since the D2 does not steer such content to the main speakers).

But beware that if you turn on that option, you will not be able to use the standard test disks to measure room base response against your settings. That's because those disks send the test sounds out over the LFE channel (instead of to a main speaker), and thus if you have the D2's LFE bypass engaged, the crossover settings, for example, are ignored.
--Bob
post #882 of 40782
Quote:
Originally Posted by elmac View Post

Upgrade shouldn't take 20 min
Did your computers screen saver came on
If yes this may cause interruption of the software upgrade

No, the screen saver did not go on (I increased it to a very large value before the upgrade). I attempted the upgrade 3 times, and it failed in the same spot each time (FPGA configurator problem). I then tried to revert to 1.04 and 1.00 and they failed on the same spot as well (FPGA configurator problem). All HDMI components were turned off during this time.

My PC is fairly new (January 2006, 3GHz Pentium D dual core). The upgrade fails in 20 minutes. The settings editor takes about 5 minutes to retrieve the settings from the D2. Is this normal? I figured maybe RS232 is just slow...
post #883 of 40782
I believe the XP serial port default is 9600. Many issues result when not matched. It is awfully slow, but not 5 minutes slow.

A full upgrade takes about 20 mins with the 9600 setting.

Since some things are never truly off (only standby) when connected, suggest you disconnect the HDMI inputs and even output during upgrade, which you can monitor from the PC.

After it takes (I hope), reset to D2 factory defaults (can do from front panel).

Then load back in your user or installer settings (can also do from front panel).

Tim
post #884 of 40782
Thread Starter 
If you have a "failed" message in any part of the installation progress of the firmware, just start it back again. Sometimes (not often), I get the "installation failed" message, and I just start it back again and it usually get through the 2nd time.

I always save my settings in the last menu of the D2, I then load factory defaults (reset), and then start the installation of the firmware. If I have the "installation failed" message, I just do it again until I have a confirmation message that it was done properly. After that, I always reload factory defaults (reset), and then reload my settings.
post #885 of 40782
Hi Friends,
First of all I apologize if this particular problem has been addressed before - I have gone through the entire thread and have not seen it but everyone's set-up is different so I will ask...
I picked up my D2 on Friday (!!!) which now replaces my AVM20. First impressions are fantastic.
My problem is happening on the video side...
I currently have a 65" WS Toshiba HDTV (back projection/5 years old), Denon 3910 and HDTV receiver all plugged in through components with component out going to the Toshiba.
When I select Video Output at 1920x1080i/60 my picture varies wildly from TV to DVD interms of quality and positioning. I have gone into bypass mode and changed vertical/horizontal positioning but it is still less than adequate.
If I select output of 720x480p/60 my DVD looks better but my HDTV is crap.
Is there a solution here or should I just input my HDTV box into the direct component inputs in my TV set or am I missing something?
I plan on moving to a 1080p projector this Fall so whatever I do is short term but would appreciate any feedback someone might have.
This video switching stuff is very new to me...
Cheers and Thanks!
Wayne (DrMabuse)
post #886 of 40782
Quote:
Originally Posted by randman View Post

Prior to upgrading my D2 to v1.06, the HDMI & component outputs were working. I connected my D2 and PC using a Windows WHQL-certified serial/USB adapter. I confirmed they were connected okay by retrieving and uploading settings to/from my PC. When I ran the v1.06 installer, things were working fine for about 20 minutes, then I got the message: "FPGA configurator programming failed". After that, my HDMI & component outputs stopped working. I can no longer enter the Video menu (button 7). I tried all sorts of permutations (particularly in menu 8), and no luck. Applying v1.04 and v1.00 also resulted in "FPGA configurator programming failed". So, now, HDMI & component out don't work. Plus, the S-Video output flickers every 1 to 2 seconds now. Anyone had this problem?

Good news. Based on various folks' input (thanks), I did the following:

1. Restored D2's factory defaults prior to upgrading.
2. Ensured that my PC and D2's baud rate matched. Since the D2's factory
default is 19200, I set my PC to use that default as well.


Finally, I used my laptop, which has a built-in RS-232 port. The upgrade to v1.06 worked the first time!! It took about 8 minutes to get to the "FPGA" configuration area, and a total of about 14 minutes to complete the upgrade. When I was using my HTPC with the USB/Serial adapter, it was taking ~20 minutes to get to the "FPGA" configuration. I thought I made sure my HTPC and D2 had the same baud rate (I was using the highest available setting of the D2).

So, not sure why I was having trouble yesterday. Some theories:

1. The USB/Serial cable of my HTPC is good enough to save/restore settings but not good enough for firmware upgrades.

2. Maybe I should have used 19200 baud.

3. Maybe I should have restored D2 factory defaults before the upgrade.

4. My HTPC's audio is connected to my D2 with a digital optical cable. My HTPC's VGA out is connected directy to my projector. I know, HDMI sources are suppossed to be off, but my HTPC only uses a digital optical cable, so I figured it should be okay to be connected to the D2 while it is on.

Bottom line is that it works with my laptop. Now, HDMI and component out work. Video settings (menu 7) work. Not sure if I want to experiment some more with my HTPC. Anyone else have a Keyspan USB/Serial adapter that works okay for them?

Thanks.
post #887 of 40782
Levesque,
I have more info on the D2's Color and Hue controls under the V1.06 software.

I found out, to my surprise, that the Color and Hue controls ARE WORKING for my Comcast HDMI input. They are also working for the S-Video input from my Polk XM Radio receiver.

They are still NOT working for my 59avi HDMI input, even though they used to with the V1.00 software.

I suspect the difference is that the 59avi is sending HDMI 480i as RGB (confirmed in the D2's Info display under the "7" key for that input), whereas the Comcast box is sending either HDMI 480i or 1080i as YCbCr 4:4:4.

So it appears that Anthem has disabled Color and Hue input controls for HDMI RGB input only -- either by design or by mistake. Again, these controls WERE working with the V1.00 software for that style of input.
--Bob
post #888 of 40782
Uh oh! HDCP failure saga!

Well just when I was starting to feel comfortable with this beast I've got a problem.

My Comcast box can't get an HDCP lock over HDMI! This is with D2 Repeater Off as before (Repeater ON has NEVER worked with this Comcast box). No cables have been touched, it just failed for no apparent reason when I tried to switch to Comcast after a couple hours of DVD watching this morning.

The Comcast box resets itself to 4:3 display at 480p when this happens.

The D2 Status display shows 480P input with an "NP" status, which I assume means no protection. The Info display under the "7" key shows DVI (Not HDMI!) input at 480p -- which I presume is the mode either the Comcast or the D2 reverts to when there is no HDCP lock.

Meanwhile my 59avi is now also having trouble initiating an HDCP lock. When it fails to lock, it's front panel, HDMI, blue light remains off, the D2 Status shows 480i input with the "NP" flag, and the D2's Info display shows DVI input. There is no image because the 59avi is set to put out 480i (which doesn't work over DVI). Power cycling the 59avi, and/or the Fujitsu, and/or the D2 does not change this.

HOWEVER. if I switch the D2 to the S-video input for the Polk XM receiver, and then back to the 59avi, the 59avi *CAN* get a proper HDCP lock (blue light ON in 59avi's front panel, D2 status shows 480i with a "CP" flag, and D2's Info shows HDMI RGB at 480i -- all correct). However it may take it 2 or 3 handshakes before it locks in. Once locked in it appears to stay locked in.

Through all of this the connection between the D2 and the Fujitsu display is without problem (HDMI 1360x768p).

Switching to the Polk XM and back to the Comcast box does NOT cure the Comcast problem however.

Switching to the Comcast (no lock) and then back to the 59avi puts things back in the state where the 59avi ALSO can not get a lock.

Switching output resolutions to the Fujitsu to force a re-handshake on that end also does not cure the problem.

The 59avi input is set for D2 Repeater YES. The Comcast input is set for D2 Repeater NO.

I'm at a loss.

I've just powered everything down and I'm going to let things cool off and see if that seems to help, although the open cabinet seems to be dissipating the heat OK.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

The Comcast box works fine if I set up its input to use Component YCbCr at 1080i and 480i. And I was already using a Digital Optical connection for audio to avoid the sound startup delay on changing channels as compared to audio going over HDMI.

But the D2 is intended to be my HDMI switching solution, and if that can't work reliably it will have to go.

I have another Comcast box, and if the cooling off doesn't seem to fix things I'll try swapping that one in.

I'll also try restoring factory settings and then my last Saved batch of user settings, which has been working fine, to see if that fixes things.
--Bob

=================================================

EDITED TO ADD:

I had the D2 and its three inputs disconnected from power for about half an hour.

When I powered back up the D2 the first thing I did was restore Factory Defaults and then Restore User Settings on top of that.

The combo seems to have fixed my problem. All switching and HDMI/HDCP handshake is working properly again. Deep sigh....

I don't know which of these steps (i.e., complete power disconnect, cool down period, or restoring Factory Defaults) did the trick here. If the problem recurs I'll try them one at a time.

I'm not surprised the Comcast/Motorola 3412 HD/DVR box was having problems. It's a known flakey piece of extremely shoddy engineering.

What bothered me was that the Comcast box's problems apparently left things in a state where the 59avi *ALSO* stopped working properly.

I suspect there may be some sort of counter for how many tries the D2 makes to establish HDCP, and once that's exceeded it doesn't get easily reset. Or some such.

In any event, I'll keep an eye out for future problems here. But if anyone has a hard failure re making HDMI connections work, before you go pulling cables, etc., try what I did: Disconnect from power, allow a cool down period, restore D2 Factory Defaults, and finally restore previously saved D2 User Settings. And be aware that problems with one source may leave things in a state where another source now ALSO can't connect properly.

CAUTION: I do NOT know if it is safe to Save User Settings *AFTER* such a problem shows up. If the problem is due to some sort of corruption of the user configuration tables, then Saving at that point might save the corrupted data as well. I suspect it is best to Save settings only when things are working well. If you are not sure things are working well remember that you have two memory spaces available to Save settings -- User Settings and Installer Settings. You can use one for your last apparently good configuration, and the other for a newer configuration that appears good (but not sure yet), and finally using the live (as yet unsaved) settings for current experiments.
--Bob
post #889 of 40782
Getting ready to try critical audio listening saga....

If, like me, you have a DVD player that you also use for playing audio discs, and if you don't want to have to leave your display powered on while playing audio discs, be aware that turning off the TV will make any HDMI connection from the player lose HDCP lock.

And most such players will disable ALL digital audio outputs, not just the HDMI digital audio output, if the HDMI is active (source and destination sockets both powered) but can't get HDCP lock. Typically the audio will go in and out as the player periodically retries to get an HDCP lock.

The work-around is to set up another D2 input, "CD" for example, with a digital optical or coax for audio and either None or a Component for video. Since the D2 is no longer sucking on the HDMI input straw when you switch to CD, the HDMI output of the player will completely shut down (just as if you had pulled the cable), and thus it will no longer be looking for an HDCP lock.

Another work-around would be to use 2 or 6 channel analog connections between player and D2, but if the D2's input is sucking on the HDMI socket, your player will continuously try and retry to establish HDCP lock if your display is actually off. This SHOULDN'T be a problem, but the flashing of the player's front panel lights might be distracting, and I'm not sure multiple failures to establish HDCP lock won't have other side effects.
--Bob
post #890 of 40782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Levesque,
They are still NOT working for my 59avi HDMI input, even though they used to with the V1.00 software.

--Bob

Bob - I'm running 480i HDMI/RGB out of my 79AVi with 1.06. I just checked and the hue and color are adjustable for me.

I have a difficult time getting the aspect ratio looking right though. I have Crop Input set to HDMI Auto and Scale Output to Anamorphic Stretch but it seems a little too tall and not quite centered on the screen. Menus and full screens fill the screen. I tried various other settings to no avail. What are people using for settings on their 480i inputs?
post #891 of 40782
Quote:
Originally Posted by randman View Post

Bottom line is that it works with my laptop. Now, HDMI and component out work. Video settings (menu 7) work. Not sure if I want to experiment some more with my HTPC. Anyone else have a Keyspan USB/Serial adapter that works okay for them?

Thanks.

Excellent
post #892 of 40782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Uh oh! HDCP failure saga!

...
The Comcast box works fine if I set up its input to use Component YCbCr at 1080i and 480i. And I was already using a Digital Optical connection for audio to avoid the sound startup delay on changing channels as compared to audio going over HDMI.

But the D2 is intended to be my HDMI switching solution, and if that can't work reliably it will have to go.
...

--Bob

Bob,
I can tell you are frustrated (understatement), but I don't think you can blame Anthem for the Moto box being crappy. After having so many problems with DVI on the Moto on a number of switches , I have to admit I didn't even try it on the Anthem. Call it preemptive frustration avoidance. So if something had to go, I would suggest the Moto.

The Component on mine works great I'm already using an external DVI switcher into one of the 4 HDMI inouts, so not using up an HDMI in port is a "bonus."

Tim

BTW I use the save profiles like you. Good known into Installer and "playing around" into USER, that way the Installer is an extra reset step, so I can see the output etc.
post #893 of 40782
Ok I'm having trouble getting my Pioneer Elite 79AVi setup at 480i. I've tried numerous settings on both the player and the D2 but can't seem to get it to display the entire picture in the correct aspect ratio. I have the player at HDMI Direct and 16:9 (have also tried 4:3) and just about every combination of Crop Input and Scale Output. About the only way I can see the entire image unstreached is to bypass but that of course turns scaling off and I get a 480 pic in the middle of a 720P screen. This is really making me pull my hair out. I thought that the Sci-Atl 8300HD PVR would give me fits but it is working fine and it is the "simple" DVD player that is giving me heartburn.

Anyone with a 59AVi or 79AVi mind sharing settings with me? I've already figured out I needed to select component (12bit) to get blacker then black. RGB was not passing it on my system.
post #894 of 40782
Tom,

I'm using Auto-Detect on Crop Input and Anamorphic Stretch for the output. The Pioneer itself is set for 16x9.
post #895 of 40782
That's what I use for my 8300HD DVR but for some reason it was messing up with the Pioneer. I'll start fresh tonght. Thanks Nathan.
post #896 of 40782
Try using a different HDMI input...ie: I use my Oppo on Aux and HDMI 3.
post #897 of 40782
Tom,
For what it's worth, after I posted my reply, I saw your initial post about Auto-Detect and Anamorphic output yielding tall images, off-center. I haven't seen that with my AVM-50.
post #898 of 40782
obie_fl,
If the 79avi's menu structure is the same as in the 59avi, the most likely problem is that you are setting 16:9 mode IN THE WRONG PLACE.

In the 59avi, the Initial Settings / Video Output menu has an obvious place to change this, but a change in that menu *ONLY* affects analog video output. To make the setting for HDMI video output you need to go to an entirely different menu hidden elsewhere: Initial Settings / Options / HDMI Settings.

For the 59avi, the correct setting for HDMI 480i or HDMI 480p output resolution in that hidden HDMI Settings menu is "16:9 Wide" (rather than "16:9 Compressed"). The 16:9 Wide setting means that the 59avi does *NOT* automatically put pillar box bars around 4:3 content -- which consumes a significant number of the 720 pixels in each line and thus clobbers horizontal resolution for the real image when viewing 4:3 DVDs. [Use 16:9 Compressed in the 59avi only if you are having it also scale the output up to 720p or 1080i.]

On the D2, the correct input setting for cropping for the 59avi, set as above, is "Auto Detect", and for Scaling is "Anamorphic" for wide screen movies. You will likely need to manually change the D2 Scaling to "Letter / Pillar Box" for 4:3 movies. The D2 will then generate the necessary pillar box bars -- without loss of horizontal resolution since it does it AS PART OF scaling up the 480i data to your display's resolution.

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Another possibility here is that you have chosen an output display resolution that your display can not synch to quite correctly. Some displays will put up a cropped or otherwise distorted image rather than simply displaying nothing. Trying to get aspect ratios correct if the display is doing this is fruitless.

Try playing with output resolutions to see which ones REALLY work. For example, some CRT displays really want 1080i input, rather than 720p input, but will display a distorted image if fed 720p. The fact that the CRT is not "fixed pixel" doesn't imply it will correctly handle all the various possible input resolutions between 480i and it's max sync-rate resolution.

Also, if you are connected via HDMI to your display, try changing the D2's Settings / Video Output / Sync from "Normal" to "Inverted".
--Bob
post #899 of 40782
rudolpht,
Good advice re frustration. But understand that my frustration was not that the D2 couldn't handle the Comcast box -- that's just to be expected with that benighted piece of so called engineering.

My frustration was that whatever was going on between the D2 and the Comcast box was ALSO, apparently, screwing up how the D2 handled the 59avi DVD player!

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In any event, there has been no repeat of this HDCP lock problem since I "fixed" it yesterday morning. I'll keep an eye on it.
--Bob
post #900 of 40782
A new D2 problem?

I've now had 2 instances of all my Video Source Adjustment settings (under the "7" key) spontaneously reverting back to their Factory Default settings. These are things like input settings for Brightness and Contrast and for Chroma Bug Correction for example. All settings for all inputs revert.

When this happens, the main configuration settings accessed via the Settings menu remain unchanged, i.e., just as I set them.

And reloading Saved User Settings resets everything under the "7" key back to where it is supposed to be, so there's an easy work around.

I've not been able to figure out why this is happening. In the course of switching control modes on the remote, I have frequently pressed keys thinking I was talking to my Comcast box when in fact the control mode was set to "Main" on the D2. Typically these would be the number keys (i..e., I thought I was changing channels).

The best I can figure is that there is some combination of number key presses that has the unexpected effect of reverting everything under the "7" key -- for all inputs, not just one -- back to original default values.

Does anyone know of such a D2 remote key combo so that I can better avoid it?

I don't think it is corruption of D2 memory since both times the values reverted to default values instead of some sort of random values.
--Bob
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