Monitor Audio Owners Thread - Page 5

Oh sure... I would call rotel worth the audiophile label. Its not esoteric electronic nirvana, but its better than the "crap" (as some would call it) receiver I have.

I think that being an audiophile is someone who, given a certain amount of money, will make their equipment choices based on sonic advantages. We cant all afford bryston mono-blocks coupled with macintosh pre-amps powering dynaudio evidence masters. Some audiophiles tout their expensive equipement as being "better" than other "cheap crap."

But if you choose to spend your hard earned $500 on a used arcam AV amplifier as opposed to going to best buy and picking up a brand spanking new sony av unit because it has digital neo 10.23121 alpha centaux 5 v2, then you are an audiophile! (IMO!)

Or if you cant afford ANY of it, and you have a boombox in your room... but dream of the thiels youll buy as soon as you strike it big... then u r an audiophile!







EDIT: And if you are my girlfriend who want to spend $1500 on a set of bose speakers because they are cute... you are NOT

I guess to me the term audiophile always gets mixed in with money. A person spends $10,000.00 on CD player and boom they are an audiophile. Granted he may not even be able to tell the difference in sound between the 10K player and a 1K player. I've always considered musicians and people trained in music to be audiophiles, because they have an appreciation for the way instruments are supposed to sound that most non-trained people don't have. For instance a musician or a person trained should know how a bass guitar is supposed to sound and detect whether or not an amp is coloring the sound and adding it's own sonic quality to the sound. I guess I'd had to agree with you in part because any person who can appreciate quality sounds over bells and whistles could also be called an audiophile just by the nature of appreciating quality sound over gimicks.

GS20, GS60, RS8, RS6 have sensitivity ratings within 1 db of one another. At 90-91 db@1M output for 1W power input, they are typical of most speakers like JBL, Energy, and Boston. Yeah, if you had Klipsch speakers, you can say that these MA speakers love power. Here is an illustration:

90 db @1M = 84 db at 2M = 78 db at 4M (a little over 13 ft)

Therefore at 13 ft listening distance from the speakers:
1 W produces 78 db
2 W produce 81 db
4 W produce 84 db
8 W produce 87 db
16 W produce 90 db
32 W produce 93 db
64 W produce 96 db
128 W produce 99 db -- no more than 2 hours time per OSHA guidelines.
256 W produce 102 db -- exceeds GS60 power rating of 200 W
512 W produce 105 db
1024 W produce 108 db
2048 W produce 111 db -- you can't plug the amp into most household AC receptacle.
???? W produce 110-130 db -- concert levels- you don't want to get there at all.

As you can see, the concert hall level front row SPL is not easily attainable. Not only that you would want to conserve your hearing so that you can continue to enjoy music and HT.

To complete the explanation, I must add the URL:
http://www.shure.com/hearing/faq.asp

Protect your hearing! Don't say nobody warns you!

In the market for new speakers. Right now I am giving serious conderation to the GS 60's with fx and centers and matching sub. I get mixed reviews on the "matching sub" theory. Some say its best to keep the matching sub others say doesnt matter. any body have any experience with the GS sub. Also Any opinions on speaker wires. To bi-amp or not to bi-amp ...that is the question.

in the price range you are considering.... there are no other speakers I would consider. I am not biased... loving my rs8's has been a long painful road and im not quite there yet. Im still debating whether the silver line meets my expectations. For me though, the next step up from GR60's is, well, crazy speakers like wilson or dynaudio. The gr60's are close to sonic nirvana, and I used to go to good guys (before they went BK) and sit on the couch and just listen to the GR60's. If this price range is where you want to be, then you will search far and wide for any brand to best it.

not sure about MA, but I can say that paradigm subs are the worst I have heard... and I am coming from being a rabid die hard paradigm fan. I was not even a little fan of the GS.

think about this. Timbre matching/brand matching within a brand for center and surrounds is encouraged because they will all use same/similar woofers. In the gold series, you will have the same driver and tweeter in each speaker. But the sub? What does that have in common with the other speakers. Crossover, magnet, coil, tweeter, dimples?? None. MA makes speakers... they make damn good GS speakers. But subs? I would stick with a company that focuses on subs and makes terrible speakers. Subs and speakers contain mutually exclusive parts.

counterpoint: manufacturers may produce the sub to compliment the speakers that they make, making a perfect match.

response: I think MA and paradigm didnt really do that. They made a sub and crossed their fingers. "hope they compliment eachother, fred." "Of course they do, John. We made them under the same roof!"

Why don't you try using the search forum function for your sub, cable and bi-amping questions. Much good info on these subjects is already on the forum.

I'm hoping the GSW-12 sub is a great performer. It would be nice to keep it all under the same brand and not worry that an SVS would have been a better sub.
But they are still 2 months out.

the run down from my experience and reading all over the web:

speakers wire is under considerable debate. The highest votes goes towards: buy something "nice" and thats good enough. Try kimbre cables, middle of the line. DONT use 22 guage radio shack wire for 50 foot runs.

Bi-amping: Knowledgeable audiophiles say biamping is only true to form if you disable internal crossovers, use electronic outboard crossovers and then use different amps to match with the woofers and tweeters. If you are using internal CO's and then doubling identical amps to get more power... forget it. You double the impedance per set of speakers, while you are doubling power. No power advantage there. However, MANY audiophiles, true to from, insist on keeping the highs and lows from interfering with eachother. Some A/V receivers come with the option to bi-amp using the extra set of speaker outs. In this instance, I am biamping... and I *think* i got better imaging.

Slybasil,
I called Monitor the other day to see if my GSW12 was ready yet and I was told it would probably be another 60 days before the GSW12 starts shipping. I am a fan of using Monitor subs with MA Speakers, the MA speakers use light and fast responding cone material, which I think sounds best when you use a sub with the same fast response. I have been using a pair of RSW12 with my GS60 setup and have been very pleased with the detail in the bass that I am getting. I think that with the GSW12, MA is taking extra time to make sure they put out a sub that can match the performance and quality of their GS line, that is why the sub is not out right now. If they were just trying to bring out any old sub, then we would have seen the GSW12 released last Feb. with the rest of the GS line.

Another factor for me is the finish and asthetics of the MA speakers. Do you really want to spend all that money on the the fine finishes that MA offers and then buy some fake vinyl black sub to pair with them? Too me the answer is no.

For a dedicated HT room that's 5.5m long x 4m wide, would you recommend:

1. RS6 + RS LCR + RS FX + RS W12
2. RS8 + RS LCR + RS FX + RS W12
3. GS20 + GS LCR + GS FX + GS W12
4. GS60 + GS LCR + GS FX + GS W12

I will be driving them with the Arcam AVR 350 (100W/ch) and plan on bi-amping the fronts. The audio source will be the Arcam DV137.

I am looking for the cleanest, clearest sound but I listen at relatively low levels and don't want speakers that overpower the room or require that I turn up the volume so that the sound is deafening.

Thanks in advance!

adeeb, I like your options 3 and 4.

I prefer the GS line, I have had the RS and GS lines side by side in my house and The GS line is in a different class, the new tweeter is amazing. But the RS line is really good for the price.

As far as aesthetics are concerned, I have a HSU VTF3MK2 in rosewood. It looks beautiful and matches my rosewood MA setup perfectly. I understand the idea of going MA all around, but subs are such a different animal, I really don't think it's necessary. Also, MA is definitely not known for their subs. My advice is to be wary. Also, it couldn't hurt to audition a HSU or SVS (I believe they have a rosewood finish option too) in the meantime. You might even save yourself some cash.

Anybody driving MA RS6 with a Rotel receiver?
Thanks for the reply.

Brandon,

Do you think the larger fronts (RS8 & GS60) would be too 'large' for the size of my room for a HT setup? I mean would they need to be further from the walls, need more space to sound right, need more power,... If so, then I can focus on the RS6 & GS20.

However, a recent What Hi-Fi Sound & Vision review of the GS20 was mixed. They felt it removed a certain something from the music.

Do you feel that there is any compromise (apart from $$) in selecting the GS20 over the RS6? Having said that, since the system will be used for 90% movies and 10% music, do you think the extra $$ for the GS20 would be worthwhile?

Thanks again!

I noticed the GS20 to me more dynamic and detailed over the RS6. The GS line sounded like it had a stronger and fuller foundation it was very tight and solid. Before the GS line, I was using the RS6 set up with a B&K Reference 50 S2 peamp and a B&K Reference 200.7 S2 for a month. I then switched to the GS line using the same B&K setup. After my initial listening session, my thought was WOW! a big step from the RS line.

Over the past 5 years, I have gone from the silver i series to the silver S and then to the silver RS. Each time there was a slight improvement in sound performance, I was pleased each time. However, I felt like I still had the same level of performance. stepping to the GS line I immediately could tell I was in a different league, the difference was huge.

I hope this helps.

Would you classify the B&K 200.7 as warm, neutral or forward ?

Thanks

For those of you in the NY, NJ, or CT area that are interested in purchasing some MA speakers I HIGHLY recommend the dealer I just bought the rest of my RS speakers from. I already have a pair of RS6's and I just ordered a pair of RS1's for my rear surrounds and the RSLCR center speaker, I will be ordering a pair of Axiom QS8 for my sides.

The gentleman's name is Gerry and he is very helpful and friendly, never did I feel pressured to buy anything. His info is:

P.F.T.B. AUDIO VIDEO NAUGATUCK, CT
203-729-6700

I won't give exact numbers so as not to break any forum rules, but the price I paid was a SIGNIFICANT discount off of MSRP. If anyone is curious just PM me and I will tell you the actual discount I received. I can't wait until next weekend to get everything all set up

Good luck

Well I'll answer my own question posed earlier (forum equivalent of talking to yourself ). I have a MA GR series setup and have had them for approx a year. I was curious about the improvements from the GR to the new GS series and had heard that the tweeter was the major improvement so I was wondering about a tweeter upgrade. I emailed MA about this and here is their response:




So depending what MA defines as "normal listening", there appears to be very little difference other than cosmetic. Any "Golden Ears" out there who have heard both care to comment?

With speakers that hand over to the tweeters at 3 khz, there should be little difference because the fundamental frequencies of most musical instruments fall in the midrange. It is the midrange (300hz - 3300hz) that makes most difference. You may find a "huge difference" (almost always an exaggeration by Goldern Ears) if you love cymbals and flutes.

Agreed. Real nice guy. Great prices too.

Thanks for that RMK! I suspected as much as I personally didn't notice much of a difference when they upgraded the silver line. That makes me feel even that much better abot my GR speakers.

Dear all
forgive me if all this sounds too mundane or recycled.
I am setting up a new system an am v glad I found this website.
I will be using either a Marantz DV 6600 or Denon 1920 as a source, Marantz Sr 12S1 THX refence reciever and I have a 10m by 12m space for my home theater with cupboards / paintings on the sides.

I can afford either the GS10, GS LCR plus the dipole rears and the RS subwoofer.
Or the RS6, RS LCR and dipoles plus sub.
May use the Velodyne CHT-R 12 instead - opinions?
which is better GS 10 or RS6? If I use the sub, then I assume the extra bass from the RS6 doesn't matter?
I do music and HT in a 40 / 60 split. I am also thinking of using all GS LCR for the for the front 3 then save $$ and use the Bronze series dipoles.

I am currently using the Bronze 2 and Centre - v nice!
Lastly anyone compared the Dynaudio 52SE to the GS 10?
Thanks and please help!!
Petetherock

Ditto. You won't regret calling Gerry. I drove 1.5 hours from Long Island, NY to get my MA equipment from him, although I believe that he will ship as well.

Firstly, welcome to the forum!

I can say that you have a tough decision to make

I'd say that you should listen to them and decide if the sound will matter that much. RS6 with a sub will sound fuller. That having been said, I'd say that the GS10 can also be quite satisfying when played with a sub. So if you feel the finesse of the GS10, go for them.

when I 1st bought the gr10's, I was in sonic heaven with jazz and classical music. I auditioned with this music, and I could forsee no other speaker matching the midrange clarity and 3 dimensionality of these speakers. I mean... pure perfection.

BUT, I was moving from paradigm 11se's (dual 8-inch woofers). Probably because of this, it was a foo fighters DVD-A or something like that showed the lack of deep full resonant midbass. The full bodied sound I was used to sounded somewhat compressed. Some will argue to the teeth that with a proper sub I could have found the sound I liked. I will no longer argue with these types, because we have our own opinions.

In the end, I joined the camp that believes a small bookshelf enclosure has physics working against it. I would equate this to making a bass guitar out of a mandolin. (A poor example I admit!) So I chose the RS8's... more drivers, bigger cabinet, more natural sound, less need for "mathcing" subwoofer. Even with this, the downgrade from 8" to 6.5" makes me miss the "girthy" sound. Being a live musician also, the missing midbass makes some music lack "pace and tempo."

So for you.... sonic bliss? or midbass compromise?

So maybe plan C will be better 3 GS LCRs and save $$ on the rears. Plus I can still afford that sub for the rumblings of LOTR, and keep the 'girth' or bass which the GS 10s may not have.
Can ayone tell me some prices for RS6, GS 10s, GS LCR and BFX please - street prices if possible.
Thanks
petetherock aka the fisherman

Thanks that really helps me. Since my current marantz is quite warm, maybe smooth I lean toward the MAs
I owned both speaker types (Bronze series and Dynaudio 50s for at least 3 years) I didn't quite get the wow factor with the dynaudios - quite accurate stuff, but no real big improvement. And they were hard to drive!

A plan D - sorry just exploring my options -
What if I buy the GS20 plus the GS LCRs, forget the sub for now, to save $$?

How much difference will I expect from the rears, I can save some money by buying the Bronze series dipoles - is that ok or taboo?

BTW you mentioned a better amp, my Marantz is top of the Marantz food chain, a reference series amp known for its musical qualities with 160W into 6 ohms (its higher than the SR 9500), is this good enough for the MA GS20/ GR10s ?
Thanks
Pete