or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › Klipsch owner thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Klipsch owner thread - Page 884

post #26491 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by jugger View Post

I wish I could run the sub in 2 channel mode with the amazing amount of bass coming from the RF-7s.
Are you sure you cannot turn on sub in 2 channel with your Pioneer? My Denon when switching to 2 channel, it also showed sub off but I can scroll down and turn it on.
post #26492 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by jugger View Post

.. Does the pioneer send more low frequencies to the RF-7 in 2 channel mode even though I have the fronts set as large? For some reason the pioneer turned the sub off in 2 channel mode as well. I wish I could run the sub in 2 channel mode with the amazing amount of bass coming from the RF-7s.

Fwiw, If you are running your speakers as Large, then in 2 channel you wouldn't be sending anything to the sub...To send the lower frequencies to the sub you need to set them up as Small and establish a crossover (probably 60 or 80 Hz).
post #26493 of 35395
^^That's right. I forgot he ran his speakers as large. Probably the reason he could not turn on sub.
post #26494 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by cchunter View Post

Personally I'm a Denon fanboy and would suggest the 4311. If your room is small enough than that might be all you need for power. I guess what I'm trying to say is the 4311 will do a fine job with them 7II's until you get an external amp down the road if you choose to do so. Who knows you may like the sound with just the 4311 alone. Do you like to listen to movies and music at reference levels? If so then an external amp would be justified IMO. Especially if you have a large room.

Yep, would still want the amp. I have a 4311 and used it for a short period of time with 4 ohm (5.1 system) speakers. My 4 ohm speakers shut down the 4311.
Reply
Reply
post #26495 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by FMZ View Post

Going to place an order for Onkyo 818 by end of this week.
the 818 is great AVR that can be used as a base to further your system , it has pre-outs , Audyssey XT32 , can be used for 9 channels with adding seperate amps , I feel you will be able to drive the 7's just fine with 2 channels right now but if you add more speakers to your system it's best to add a multichannel power amp at a later date , the 818 will work just fine with the added power amps .
You've done a good thing getting the best speaker to start your HT system you now have a solid base to build it up .
One thing about power amps is you only have to buy them once they do not get out dated like any AVR will be obsolete with future tech changes every few years , this is rational to buy a mid priced AVR to use as a processor , then add quality power amps ( these never need upgrading ) & when the tech changes you have the power wattage already in your house & only have to again just replace a mid priced AVR instead of replacing a upper range AVR that costs a lot more . In the long run buying power amps actually saves you money .
there many new processors that will come down the pike that will make a AVR useless , the Oppo 105 nearly does that now .
The 818 can be had fairly cheap & also look at a TX-NR809 OR a TX-NR1009 as there still are new stock of these AVR's out there at very discounted prices
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JOO4XE/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AAK72K4OIWDXL
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=151124701786
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00505F01E/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=151115623632
http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/ONKTXNR818/Onkyo-TX-NR818-7.2-Ch-THX-Certified-Network-A/V-Receiver/1.html
http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/ONKTXNR809/Onkyo-TX-NR809-7.2-Channel-Network-A/V-Receiver/1.html
http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/ONKTXNR1009/Onkyo-TX-NR1009-9.2-Channel-Network-A/V-Receiver/1.html

these are a few examples of the deals Onecall & Accessoies4less are authorized dealers & have extended warranty plans as well
post #26496 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

If your current AVR (did not look) has pre outs, then I would keep it and just get an amp. The RF-7's have a lower impedance dip and an amp is a good addition for them. Not many AVR's are great with 4 ohm speakers. Some will do okay, but not great. If the AVR does not have pre outs, then I would look at the Denon AVR-X4000.

Has one of the HT magazines posted a bench test on the new X4000? If so please post a link, my Son is looking for a new AVR or a Pre/Pro and amp for his 5.1 HT system he is building. He has a about $1,500.00

he is wiling to put on his Visa.
post #26497 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastslappy View Post

the 818 is great AVR that can be used as a base to further your system , it has pre-outs , Audyssey XT32 , can be used for 9 channels with adding seperate amps , I feel you will be able to drive the 7's just fine with 2 channels right now but if you add more speakers to your system it's best to add a multichannel power amp at a later date , the 818 will work just fine with the added power amps .
You've done a good thing getting the best speaker to start your HT system you now have a solid base to build it up .
One thing about power amps is you only have to buy them once they do not get out dated like any AVR will be obsolete with future tech changes every few years , this is rational to buy a mid priced AVR to use as a processor , then add quality power amps ( these never need upgrading ) & when the tech changes you have the power wattage already in your house & only have to again just replace a mid priced AVR instead of replacing a upper range AVR that costs a lot more . In the long run buying power amps actually saves you money .
there many new processors that will come down the pike that will make a AVR useless , the Oppo 105 nearly does that now .
The 818 can be had fairly cheap & also look at a TX-NR809 OR a TX-NR1009 as there still are new stock of these AVR's out there at very discounted prices
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JOO4XE/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AAK72K4OIWDXL
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=151124701786
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00505F01E/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=151115623632
http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/ONKTXNR818/Onkyo-TX-NR818-7.2-Ch-THX-Certified-Network-A/V-Receiver/1.html
http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/ONKTXNR809/Onkyo-TX-NR809-7.2-Channel-Network-A/V-Receiver/1.html
http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/ONKTXNR1009/Onkyo-TX-NR1009-9.2-Channel-Network-A/V-Receiver/1.html

these are a few examples of the deals Onecall & Accessoies4less are authorized dealers & have extended warranty plans as well

I had a terrible experience with accesories4less and wouldn't recommend them. Their customer service is terrible and they are rude and would not work with me. YMMV.
post #26498 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by baloo_btru View Post

I had a terrible experience with accesories4less and wouldn't recommend them. Their customer service is terrible and they are rude and would not work with me. YMMV.
I know a few here have dealt with them with success , I myself had a problem getting a straight answer outta them on warranty on a Onk I was looking at , seem it's small business & sometimes your getting the shipping clerk on the phone , buy the time the owner got back at me , I had found a open box TX-NR1009 with 2 year factory warranty outta J&R in NYC , I have bought many things from J&R they are Very trusted .
Onecall I've heard good things about as well .
Accessories4less hit & miss I guess rolleyes.gif

J&R http://www.jr.com/
I got a killer deal outta J&R on the top of line Sanus XF-228 80" to 90" display mount the it's a pull out & slide side to side with angling to near 45 degrees , finger tip control
post #26499 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Yep, would still want the amp. I have a 4311 and used it for a short period of time with 4 ohm (5.1 system) speakers. My 4 ohm speakers shut down the 4311.

I run a 9.2 Klipsch Home Theater with RF-7s/RC-7 up front and have never had an AVR shut down with these speakers even with a lower mid-level AVR. I purchased a Denon AVR-4311ci a couple of months ago and Audyssey sets my trim levels between -6 and -8 and I watch movies at -3 on the MV and multichannel music between -8 to -3 and it sounds excellent.

That said, if your speakers were shutting down the AVR then I can see why you would need an amp, but if you look on the AVR-4311ci Owners Thread there are there are many other people who have 4 Ohm rated speakers that are happy with the results including those that have used separate amps with other AVR models.
post #26500 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by jugger View Post

I have been trying to find a small 2 channel amp to drive my RF-7s but can't find one. I'd like to find one that was a minimum of 150w at 8ohms. I could stack two of the outlaw 2200 together but would rather not. Any suggestions?

I noticed the other day my RF-7s really came to life when turned the pioneer reciever to 2 channel mode instead of extended stereo running 7 speakers. It almost seems as if the reciever runs out of juice trying to push all 7 speakers including the RF-82s as side surrounds. In 2 channel mode the RF-7s produced a lot more sound and a crap load of bass. Does the pioneer send more low frequencies to the RF-7 in 2 channel mode even though I have the fronts set as large? For some reason the pioneer turned the sub off in 2 channel mode as well. I wish I could run the sub in 2 channel mode with the amazing amount of bass coming from the RF-7s.

RF-7 or RF-7ii? I'm going to assume RF-7ii.

I've really liked my Crown XLS1500. The RF-7ii can handle 250w. I originally purchased a Crown XLS1000. As some had said, the XLS1000 might be noisy and I noticed some hiss. I had planned on adding a DIY sub so I ended up moving my XLS1000 to sub duty when I built a LilWrecker and found a Crown XLS1500 eBay for less than I paid for my XLS1000. The XLS1500 can drive up to 300w at 8ohm and can drive 2ohm loads (headroom anyone?). The XLS1500 doesn't have the hiss of the XLS1000.

I have an older Onkyo with 7.2 capability that I bought about 2 weeks after HDMI came out rolleyes.gif so it doesn't have HDMI switching. I only use it to run the RC-64ii and some dinky surrounds. I can still get the Onkyo to shut down when on full tilt unless I have a fan aimed at my cabinet where my AV equipment is located (can't hear the fan when listening to material at that level so it is all good).

Also, we often listen to music in our cul de sac using the RF-7iis and the LilWrecker in 2-channel mode. We aim a speaker or two out the door, crank it up until the red lights on the Crown start to flicker, back it down one, and then have an adult beverage while the neighborhood kids play.
post #26501 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis Bartay View Post

Has one of the HT magazines posted a bench test on the new X4000? If so please post a link, my Son is looking for a new AVR or a Pre/Pro and amp for his 5.1 HT system he is building. He has a about $1,500.00

he is wiling to put on his Visa.

I haven't seen a benchmark test for any of the models discussed but still think the AVR-4311ci is a good bang-for your buck:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1430049/the-official-denon-avr-4520ci-thread

What's the difference between the 4311ci and the 4520ci? Is it worth the extra for the newer 4520ci model?

In terms of "the basics" they are VERY similar -- similar overall array of inputs/outputs, same XT32 + SubEQ room calibration software, 9 amp channels with basically the same amp section, Audyssey DSX with 11ch expansion, etc.... they both have 6 rear + 1 front HDMI input with dual outputs for Main Zone, 3 component video inputs with 1 output for Main Zone, 7.1ch EXT IN analog inputs, full 11.2ch pre-outs, Phono input, two 12v trigger outs, 2 optical and 2 coax digital audio inputs, etc.

You can basically assume sound quality is close to identical!

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1465528/the-official-2013-denon-e-series-x-series-avr-model-owners-thread-faq

Wow, the X4000 sounds amazing! Is there any reason to fork over the extra coin for the 4520CI now??

While the X4000 appears to be a "baby 4520" with most of the important features, there are still some things the 4520 has that may entice people to step up to the flagship model:

1. The 4520 is larger and heavier, with a superior amp section rated to drive 4-ohm speakers.
post #26502 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by chilort View Post

RF-7 or RF-7ii? I'm going to assume RF-7ii.

I've really liked my Crown XLS1500. The RF-7ii can handle 250w. I originally purchased a Crown XLS1000. As some had said, the XLS1000 might be noisy and I noticed some hiss. I had planned on adding a DIY sub so I ended up moving my XLS1000 to sub duty when I built a LilWrecker and found a Crown XLS1500 eBay for less than I paid for my XLS1000. The XLS1500 can drive up to 300w at 8ohm and can drive 2ohm loads (headroom anyone?). The XLS1500 doesn't have the hiss of the XLS1000.

I have an older Onkyo with 7.2 capability that I bought about 2 weeks after HDMI came out rolleyes.gif so it doesn't have HDMI switching. I only use it to run the RC-64ii and some dinky surrounds. I can still get the Onkyo to shut down when on full tilt unless I have a fan aimed at my cabinet where my AV equipment is located (can't hear the fan when listening to material at that level so it is all good).

Also, we often listen to music in our cul de sac using the RF-7iis and the LilWrecker in 2-channel mode. We aim a speaker or two out the door, crank it up until the red lights on the Crown start to flicker, back it down one, and then have an adult beverage while the neighborhood kids play.

Thank you for the suggestion. That was exactly what I was looking for and for the $3xx.00 price range. I have no idea how good they are but worth the risk.

When the fronts and sides are set to large I can turn the sub on and even set it to plus. This gives me full bass from the sub but seems to take bass away from the fronts and sides. I need to play around with it and figure out why the signal to sub is turned off in 2 channel. I don't know if its true 2 channel setting in the receiver but its a setting that's called F.S. Focused. Btw it's a pioneer SC-1522-k with 140wpc.
post #26503 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by cchunter View Post

But couldnt you get the same results with an spl meter and REW?

Hey cchunter on the previous page I posted several people who use REW (kbarnes and austinjerry) and think that Audyssey MultEQ XT-32 was an upgrade from XT, but found this post from SOM yesterday who also does alot of measuring and was helpful to me:
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post


...Above and beyond the troubleshooting, let me add a bit about my experience with XT with my gear at the time (Denon AVR 4310 and Dali Helicon 400 FR/L) and my room (untreated non-dedicated family rm). Prior to running Audyssey I set up the speakers and MLP so I had a nice wide soundstage with very good detail and imaging. However, the room was causing awful, boomy uneven bass that made it very difficult to "listen-through" to hear the detail available in the best recordings. The great benefit of XT for me was taming the room's bass, which provided far more balanced sound overall. The cost was some loss of precise imaging and fine detail (cymbal decay, room ambiance/reverb) when critically listening to those best recordings with XT. Not the effects you describe, but attributable to the limitations of XT and not inconsistent with reports of some "Audiophile" Audyssey-haters. When I upgraded to XT32 in the AVR 4311, the bass was even better controlled, there was no longer the loss of fine detail and overall SQ took a very nice step up. Most everyone reports improvements from XT to XT32, as XT32 has successfully implemented several significant improvements and so in effect addressed some of XT's inherent limitations.

If I had your speakers and room, I'd be looking for a nice AVP with XT32 and Audyssey Pro capability. That is the best Audyssey has to offer and is well worth it IMO.

SOM is also the one who said the AVR-4311ci drove his 4 Ohm Dali speakers better than his previous AVR 4810.
post #26504 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by jugger View Post

...When the fronts and sides are set to large I can turn the sub on and even set it to plus. This gives me full bass from the sub but seems to take bass away from the fronts and sides. I need to play around with it and figure out why the signal to sub is turned off in 2 channel. I don't know if its true 2 channel setting in the receiver but its a setting that's called F.S. Focused. Btw it's a pioneer SC-1522-k with 140wpc.

Because 2 channel does not have LFE (the ".1" in 5.1) and when you set your speakers to Large there is nothing sent there...Otoh, when you set your speakers to Small and apply a crossover then everything below that is sent to the sub.
post #26505 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by jugger View Post

Thank you for the suggestion. That was exactly what I was looking for and for the $3xx.00 price range. I have no idea how good they are but worth the risk.

When the fronts and sides are set to large I can turn the sub on and even set it to plus. This gives me full bass from the sub but seems to take bass away from the fronts and sides. I need to play around with it and figure out why the signal to sub is turned off in 2 channel. I don't know if its true 2 channel setting in the receiver but its a setting that's called F.S. Focused. Btw it's a pioneer SC-1522-k with 140wpc.
that Crown will allow you set the crossover back down where the 7's roll off (IIIRC that 30 or 40 ) & then your 7's will again sound like they are set to large . when you cross a set 7's at 80 your cutting them off at the knees so to speak . That's what the 7's do Very well is that range between 80 & 30 , this also applies to the large Heritage speakers & Klipsch speakers like the dual woofer KLF-30 and the like .
This is the advantage that adding a power amp does well besides adding headroom smile.gif
post #26506 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zen Traveler View Post

Because 2 channel does not have LFE (the ".1" in 5.1) and when you set your speakers to Large there is nothing sent there...Otoh, when you set your speakers to Small and apply a crossover then everything below that is sent to the sub.


I agree........


My older subs have two inputs one is for the LFE pin plugs(line source) and the other is "High Level" speaker wires so you can run both L+R speaker wires from the amp to the sub in and out and then to the speakers and now you have a sub play and adjust the cross over and gain to your liking.

Even on PURE or Analog Straight mode ....... I wired a CD player RCA on the back of the AVR so I was on the analog side of the AVR when I recorded to my Revox
R2R, the Burr brown DAC is a decent one the RX-V1900. For those of you that are thinking of recording tape from a Bluray ..... my AVR will NOT access the audio from my Bluray player I use for 5.2 HD audio and music Cd's . Now some expensive Bluray decks have RCA on the back for this........................wish I had that new Oppo.
post #26507 of 35395
or 2 channel music a power amp & that Oppo 105 is a hot ticket set-up
i just wish that Oppo would do 9 channels , i'd switch in heartbeat .
I still feel that a whole new era in processors are coming , that Oppo 105 is just the start the AVR as we know it will change as well .
If MicroSoft would ever wake up to processing like a AVR does all that would be needed is a simple switching device with a on-board DAC that had pre-outs & HDMI to the displays smile.gif
post #26508 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis Bartay View Post

I agree........


My older subs have two inputs one is for the LFE pin plugs(line source) and the other is "High Level" speaker wires so you can run both L+R speaker wires from the amp to the sub in and out and then to the speakers and now you have a sub play and adjust the cross over and gain to your liking. .
some of the plate amps in the DIY subs like a THT you can do that with a miniDSP , in other words you can have your mains play down to the 30 roll off & also have the subs play at any level you want PLUS add any EQ curve as well wink.gif you can actually set the timing so that there is no cancellation &/OR smearing issues between your subs playing the same signal as your mains , pretty amazing things can be done with the miniDSP & a PC , you can also set to adjust for REW curves .
with the right setup there is no need for Audyssey or any room correction as one can do all this on the fly in real time
Edited by Fastslappy - 9/18/13 at 3:19pm
post #26509 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by chilort View Post

RF-7 or RF-7ii? I'm going to assume RF-7ii.

I've really liked my Crown XLS1500. The RF-7ii can handle 250w. I originally purchased a Crown XLS1000. As some had said, the XLS1000 might be noisy and I noticed some hiss. I had planned on adding a DIY sub so I ended up moving my XLS1000 to sub duty when I built a LilWrecker and found a Crown XLS1500 eBay for less than I paid for my XLS1000. The XLS1500 can drive up to 300w at 8ohm and can drive 2ohm loads (headroom anyone?). The XLS1500 doesn't have the hiss of the XLS1000.

I have an older Onkyo with 7.2 capability that I bought about 2 weeks after HDMI came out rolleyes.gif so it doesn't have HDMI switching. I only use it to run the RC-64ii and some dinky surrounds. I can still get the Onkyo to shut down when on full tilt unless I have a fan aimed at my cabinet where my AV equipment is located (can't hear the fan when listening to material at that level so it is all good).

Also, we often listen to music in our cul de sac using the RF-7iis and the LilWrecker in 2-channel mode. We aim a speaker or two out the door, crank it up until the red lights on the Crown start to flicker, back it down one, and then have an adult beverage while the neighborhood kids play.

Yes .Someone else that runs fans behind AVR amp etc.

My Onkyo 805 AVR was like a George Foreman grill (well not that hot but...) and I never stacked on top of any amp AVR etc. and I give them 5" of breathing room on the top with a fan blowing from the back. I have another fan on the floor behind one of my Cornwalls blowing at the bottom vents on my 55" flat screen. My vintage Yamaha A-1000 Class A amp gets HOT !!! more so then any AVR I have ever owned or been in the same room with.

Watch two Bluray movies back to back on Sat. night at Reference sound level and put your hand on top of your AVR. If your AVR is not a lot warmer then 12 hours of 2 channel music you have a really good design with a fan inside that really works.

My friend Autobot (on AK forum) has Crown XLS 1500 for his analog system.......no hiss from it between songs on his TT. Autobot has several fans for equipment. A Plasma 55" flat screen will warm up a small room in the winter. I hated to change subject about fans on warm amps, as I am interested in amps and use my AVR as pre/pro until it fries and look for a pre/pro. One device at a time is the only way I can go now and not use a Visa etc.down side of being retired. I save and wait until I can pay cash and look for mint used equipment from members here with good paying jobs that upgrade all the time.
post #26510 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zen Traveler View Post

Fwiw, If you are running your speakers as Large, then in 2 channel you wouldn't be sending anything to the sub...To send the lower frequencies to the sub you need to set them up as Small and establish a crossover (probably 60 or 80 Hz).

Quick question on that comment: I have RB-61 II L/R, RC-62 II center and older RC-10 surrounds. I did the above after running room correction with my Pioneer AVR. Afterwards, I went into the manual settings and brought the x-over down to 50hz to roughly match the bottom-end of the RB-61 II's range. Playing music, at relatively low volume, I was really pleased with the change in sound, due I suppose to the added low frequency sound coming from the L/R with music. This sounded great with both 2-channel and surround music (again, at low volume). I haven't had a chance to try a movie yet or music at higher volume (it was late last night :-).

I notice that 80-85Hz seems to a cross-over point that many recommend (my AVR set the value at 100Hz after running the setup process). Is there a reason for this if/when the speakers can output the lower frequencies?

Thanks, in advance...
post #26511 of 35395

AVR question

 

I'm about as dumb as a brick on HT AVR's, specifically, crossover points large/small settings.

 

Are the crossover points adjustable?

 

If I want to cross from my main speakers to my subs at say, 40hz, will the AVR allow that?

 

Don't ask what brand because I don't own one!

post #26512 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by coytee View Post

AVR question

I'm about as dumb as a brick on HT AVR's, specifically, crossover points large/small settings.

Are the crossover points adjustable?

If I want to cross from my main speakers to my subs at say, 40hz, will the AVR allow that?

Don't ask what brand because I don't own one!

All of the models I've used from Pioneer, Yamaha and Denon will allow that (maybe not down to 40, but the crossover point is adjustable).
post #26513 of 35395

Ok, so bottom line that is something I need to put on my check-list when I'm comparing them.

post #26514 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by etc6849 View Post

They image great even in my cramped room. Slightly better than the RF-83's I think. I can now see why the La Scala II's always sold for more than the RF-83's and RF-7's. They do sound better to me in the voice range, and this matters during movies. Maybe by the end of the week I'll be a heritage convert!

Noooo!!! say it ant so mad.gif. LOL I feel you they suck you in and it only gets better the longer you listen to them. I converted to a huge fan of both biggrin.gif. Glad your happy thats all that matters wink.gif
post #26515 of 35395
Looking for some front heights. With my current setup would RB81II's be overkill to lets say RB61II's? I'm thinking they might drown out my fronts then again maybe they would sound better than the 61II's overall. Thoughts?
post #26516 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by coytee View Post

AVR question

I'm about as dumb as a brick on HT AVR's, specifically, crossover points large/small settings.

Are the crossover points adjustable?

If I want to cross from my main speakers to my subs at say, 40hz, will the AVR allow that?

Don't ask what brand because I don't own one!

What do you use for a Pre/Pro for DD 5.1 HT audio or HD audio from a Bluray movie?
post #26517 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by FMZ View Post

Just got off the call, spoke to CS rep @ Klipsch.

He doesn't recommend anything less then 150 watts per channel for driving RF7-IIs and recommended external amps Outlaw? and emotiva if my AVR supports preouts frown.gif which I dont have.

Now I am really curious if people are driving these speakers with normal amps.

Dont let it bother you to much. Hook them up and enjoy. They are going to sound great on your avr.


They will sound better with an amp but that doesn't mean they wont sound good without one. biggrin.gif. Can always upgrade down the road
post #26518 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastslappy View Post

there you go again taking a random post outta context from who knows where & what could be just someone's biased opinion . Just to make your biased opinionated point .
Yes your Denon works for you & your really small room with your 7's BUT many people here on this thread have 7II's & most if not all feel that the 7II's sound way better when a ample power amp is used .

+1
post #26519 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krutsch View Post

Quick question on that comment: I have RB-61 II L/R, RC-62 II center and older RC-10 surrounds. I did the above after running room correction with my Pioneer AVR. Afterwards, I went into the manual settings and brought the x-over down to 50hz to roughly match the bottom-end of the RB-61 II's range. Playing music, at relatively low volume, I was really pleased with the change in sound, due I suppose to the added low frequency sound coming from the L/R with music. This sounded great with both 2-channel and surround music (again, at low volume). I haven't had a chance to try a movie yet or music at higher volume (it was late last night :-).

I notice that 80-85Hz seems to a cross-over point that many recommend (my AVR set the value at 100Hz after running the setup process). Is there a reason for this if/when the speakers can output the lower frequencies?

Thanks, in advance...

Your sub should be able to hit those notes more easily and take some of the stress off of your AVR...If your sub is placed in a good position then anything below 80s Hz shouldn't sound like it's coming from the sub and should blend with the speaker whose direction it's supposedly coming from...That's the theory, but I have my RF-7s crossed at 60 Hz because it blends better because my subs are not in ideal locations.
post #26520 of 35395
Quote:
Originally Posted by coytee View Post

AVR question

I'm about as dumb as a brick on HT AVR's, specifically, crossover points large/small settings.

Are the crossover points adjustable?

If I want to cross from my main speakers to my subs at say, 40hz, will the AVR allow that?

Don't ask what brand because I don't own one!

Yes. Also I think most AVRs made in the last couple of years allows you to set different crossovers for the different pairs of speakers (Front, surrounds rears, etc) and the center channel.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Speakers
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › Klipsch owner thread