Big Mouth In DC's beautiful black/grey theater - Page 52

Here is the follow up to that...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4v9N...eature=related

Logan, the base was done by me, they just built the shed with 2x4 on their side...

As for the rest, that sounds like a good plan. The only question is, how much would a crane rental like that cost?

I may play the level and band aid game a little to save some money.

Saw this today as a potential solution...

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...tml#post989746

I came across some videos of people raising sheds then putting a series of large PVC pipes under the shed and moving it. You could slide it over, rebuild a foundation and slide it back. Several beefy friends required.

Adding to Big's shed relocation comment:

This is exactly the process my neighbor used to move a big shed.
He had 4 "landscaping" guys and 5 lengths of PC tube to move a big shed about 25 feet across his backyard - worked quite well (looked like 6" PVC).

The question is, if I completely move the shed to re-do the foundation, do I just put concrete? Do I do the holes with the tubes of concrete as suggested by logan? Do I try to mimic BIG's recommendation?

All viable solutions. I assume poured concrete while not the most economical, it would be the best if done correctly.

If you are putting it in the same place, I would not suggest Big's solution or a concrete pad. It sounds like you have uneven settling in the current location, and those two solutions would not correct that. If it were me, I would bite the bullet and put in the concrete posts as suggested by Logan.

A quick web search turned up this site. That site or some others like it should have an online calculator somewhere you can use to figure out how many posts you need and what the proper sizes are for the posts and the support beam.

I used the sonotubes available at the big box stores for my deck footings many years ago. Used a power auger to dig the holes put several inches of gravel in the bottom and around the outside to promote drainage and then filled the tubes with quickrete. I also wrapped the outside of the tubes in plastic to help fight frost heave. I have not had any issues with sinking or settling in the seven years I have had my deck. The sonotubes are very easy to use and make pouring a footer/foundation very easy.

If you are interested I can try to find some pictures of how I did it. I took photos, just can't remember where they are stored at the moment.

Happy Thanksgiving to all of you!

Regards,

RTROSE

BMDC:

You mentioned somewhere you had some windows you drywalled over. I'm in TN so my climate is a little warmer than your's but I think we both qualify for heating and cooling seasons.

I worried abotu how to handle the "plugs". I really dont' need to remove them except for a catastrophy (tree falls through window, etc.). Drywalling over them is the easy button. I have them framed and ready to case out, I was going to just plug the openings with independent (from the rest of the wallboard) "plugs". Maybe seal the first layer with acoustic sealeant, and mud the crack without tap on teh final, visible layer. It will grow a little crack there which in this case is good, so I can see where the plug is should I need to remove it. Walls get fabric so cosmetics aren't an issue.

So, here's the question... how did you handle your windows insulation and vapor barrier-wise? I'm worried about them getting condensate and then mold in that little cavity. I was thinking a faux windows treatment (for benefit of the outisde lookign in view), then insulation, then a vapor barrier, then my drywall.

How are your's performing? Any issues?

I haven't had issue with the windows, I hung a blind in the closed position, then plywood mounted to furring around the framed in window, some insulation then drywall. There are plenty of gaps in my wall and windows for moisture to dissipate.

I have some additional thoughts on the windows, all of your comments about moisture and sound still apply but as my room will have only one entrance door I needed to consider alternate safe exits in an emergency, the windows!

My room is in the basement and once complete should have alternate escape roots in the event of a fire, the type that are easily accessed and don't require tools to open.

In addition to the need for light and sound control I too want the windows to look somewhat normal from the outside, I plan to have reflective film applied to them so that from the street it would be impossible to tell they have been covered over, this will have the added benefit of reflecting the sunlight preventing a heat buildup in that area. I will insulate the cavity that gets enclosed and then use easily removed hanging panels to cover to window openings.

These panels may be covered with fabric or may be paintings or even movie posters, something light and easy to remove in an emergency.

I may have missed this in all the traffic but a long time ago when you started this where did you get your letters? Also I noticed you had blue rope light under your bar area. Is that 12v or 120v? I am curious about this. I have some big rope light under my bar and it just sucks. It isn't bright at all. It is incandescent - line voltage - not dimmed.

Thanks!

Neil

I covered over two windows. One is under the deck and you can't see it anyway. The other you CAN see, but is basically at ground level from the outside. I had the Mrs. make a cheap set of curtains. Put them in the closed position and it looks like a normal closed window from the outside.

YES, I get really nervous when I see basement projects where the only exit is up the stairs. I still have a walkout door and three full windows in my basement even though I boarded up two.

The letters are 1 inch thick gator foam letters with a brushed silver laminate on the front and edges painted to match. Dimensional lettering is a standard offering at any commercial sign shop, most just order from a supplier a few actually make with computerized cutter. I ordered mine from Designery signs. You can Google "dimensional lettering" and find plenty of vendors.

The rope light is an 120v LED Blue rope light on a rotary dimmer switch.

No problems for me there. My room has 5 doors. Only one is a dead end into an adjoining room with no windows. Windows are simply in my way .

Here is a shot from last week hanging treatments and fabric in Ohio

this continues to be my favorite thread of all time. My inspiration for my theater came for this thread, thank you so much for that ;-)

I'll be posting the finished pix next week.

Happy pops day ...

^^^^I think a lot of us (including me) have drawn inspiration from Big's space. Yup Big is one of those kind of guys that as FORGOTTEN more about Home Theater stuff than most of us will LEARN about it. Three cheers for Big!

Regards,

RTROSE

Aw shucks! Thanks for the feedback.

No brotha, thank you.

And dude I still got those samples you sent me, lol.

I don't know if you remember but you sent me a sample of the light blue cloth on your wall and the dark blue from the rugs.

Thank you so much for that brotha. Can't wait to post the pics ;-) I'll even post the pics from the samples, lol.

Hey Big,
You said you used MDF and plywood when building the bar behind your riser. Can you tell me where you used each and why the two different materials? I'm also curious as to how you did your corners on the wings so as not to have any rough butt joints. Thanks.

The outriggers and the mid support are 3/4 MDF around framing. Built them like I build speakers, you glue the butt joints during assembly, wipe with a damp rag. Once dry you fill the seams with wood filler, and sand, Prime, fill with filler as needed. sand, Paint. sand, Paint. Somewhere along the line I rounded over the edges with a router, stopping where the molding went at the bottom and top.

The front and backs were paint grade plywood. Didn't have a seam on the front facing the stool because of the mid span support. On the back side that is hidden by the seating I just did a butt joint and called it a day.

So did you screw the MDF into the framing or did you use glue there also? Also have a question about the base trim you used. Is that a single molding or did you build it up from various pieces? I really like it but didn't see anything like it at Lowes or Home Depot.

You are really testing my memory, either screws or my finish nailer were called into duty to hold the pieces in place as the glue dried. The base trim is two parts Smoot Lumber (Alexandria) sells a three step molding and I added a fourth.. You will never find it at HD/L.
Edited by BIGmouthinDC - 9/7/12 at 4:57am

Hope you don't mind another question. Do you think this type of build would work as a non-anchored freestanding bar? What about if the middle support wasn't there? This is a retro so I would need to cut out the carpet which I'd rather not do if I don't have to. Thanks again for the info.

I've never built a bar that wasn't secured, you might start a thread on that topic I'm sure there are some guys that have done it.

I looked at Smoot's entire molding catalog and couldn't find anything even close to that. Do you remember what type of molding kit it was? Was it a base or maybe even a crown turned upside down?

That is a puzzle. I bought some within in the last 30 days and it is in stock. I can't find my paperwork. I'll take a picture of the side profile and you could e-mail them.

Smoot is great, they have a great selection of mouldings and their catalog is outstanding for combining multiple mouldings together