Official Optoma HD7100, HD7300 + HD3000 Scaler thread. - Page 5

ahhhhhhhhhh--- nevermind, just read the above posts.... doesnt do optoma much justice thoughhh...

This is in the broadcast and not the projectors fault. It has happened on both of my past two projectors as well.

I too see this, but my projector is ceiling mounted so it appears in the top right corner which I believe would be your bottom left inverted. Not sure what this is either, but can be a little distracting in dark scenes. Will add it to my list of questions to ask Optoma.

What type of sync problems are you having? What type of cable, DVD player and up-conversion method if any are you using? We should all try to resolve these issues together, for our and any future potential purchasers benefit.

Mike

"I have noticed when watching a movie in 1080i it will looking fine and then every once in awhile produce a twitch or flash on the screen. I have tried different movies to rule that out as a potential problem and all have done same thing. I think there is slight sync problem here as when running in 720p I do not get this same result and the image remains stable. I like 720p but the image seems to look and fit the screen better in 1080i. It may also be a copy protection encoding error, I will check out some of my burnt archive movies to test this theory out. I will be investigating the cables tonight and also looking for a possible setting in the Oppo or the projector to fix this problem. Not sure which it is or even if it may be my long run of cable, but 720p is fine so not convinced it's the cables fault. I will also call Oppo and Optoma tomorrow to get their take on it."

It's the Oppo and the cable length. I had problems with the Oppo and 1080i with different projectors. The Oppo wasn't alone add the Bravo D2 also. To fix the dropouts and sparklies I use a shorter location and went to 15' digital cables. The Toshiba HDA1 was trouble at first even with a 6' cable but the scaler fixed it even using a 25' cable.

If we've learned anything, cables and cable lengths devices and receivers in the digital age can give you allot of signal level problems. When I went to the close up route I thought all my problems were solved, until the Toshiba. If I don't buy the Scaler I'll be dumping the HDA1. The Engineer's looking at the troubles with the HDA1 going direct to the HD7100 maybe he can find a fix.

I'm glad a few more of you are getting a good look at the HD7100. It's really something to look at. I wanted to own this thing immediately, figured I could hold off on 1080p with a image this good. The sharpness the lens adds for me could make up for the lost resolution, at least that's what I tell myself.

I talked with both reps from Oppo and Optoma yesterday and they say it could be the cable but it might also be that the Optoma does not like 1080i from the source and is having trouble syncing with any source in 1080i. They both suggested that using 720p might yield better results for me since it is the native resolution of the panel on the projector. They both also suggested that there might even be advantages to using 720p over 1080i, such as increased color saturation, contrast and increased smoothness or fluidity to the image.

So I tested this out last night when I got home from work. There does appear to be a bit better color saturation without a real noticeable loss in sharpness. The 720p setting looks very fine and might even be a slight bit better than 1080i on this projector or DVD player and projector combination. Of course there are no more flashes or twitches in the picture. I also tried 1080i and 720p from my HDTV Bell receiver over 35 foot component cords and the same glitches and sync problems happens here in 1080i but not 720p. It should not loss signal with high quality 35 foot component cords in 720p or 1080i at all period!! So this rules out both the DVI cable and the Oppo and puts the blame squarely on Optoma's shoulders. It seems that it does not like to deinterlace an interlaced signal in 1080i and prefers a progressive scan image in 720p for its scaling.

So why offer and suggest 1080i in this projector or on the DVD player? I asked Optoma and Oppo and they both said kind of the same thing for future proof and for devices that will work better in 1080i than 720p. Optoma also suggested any scaler including there new one about to be released should offer and support 1080i on this projector. So bottom line here is that using 720p on any input with both DVI and component cables is called for when using this projector feed from any source, unless your using a scaler in which case 1080i should work just fine. I can not test this as I do not have a scaler yet!! I do not think cord length is an issue either at my lengths for both the DVI or component cables, as I have good quality cables for the longer runs. However I would recomend to always try to keep cord length as short as possible and especially for 1080i or higher resolutions over DVI cords.

The light leaking around the corner may be a problem and the guy at Optoma sounded concerned and said that is not typical and if you have a unit that exhibits this problem to contact them to work out a replacement with them. He suggested that possibly trying to use the panel in 720p instead of 1080i might help but was doubtful, as this he feels may a physical problem with the DMD chip set or in the optics and light path itself.

Tom can you confirm your sync problems with the Toshiba player and the Optoma are happening in 1080i and not 720p, despite cord length? Can you test this direct feed to the projector from the DVD player and not run through the scaler? Then maybe try through the scaler and then with different sources and over component. Not sure if you tested this out yet.


All for now,

Mike

See my last post. Are you using DVI or component cables? What is your source? Are you trying to up-converting to 1080i or 720p? Try 720p over both types of cables and from different sources if you have them and see what happens. Let me know.

No, not any fussier than I am!!

Mike

I've noticed some comments on cable lengthes through out the thread. I'm seriously considering this PJ as an upgrade to my Panny 900 but I will need to use a 50' HDMI and a 50' component cable in my new HT set up. I have these hooked up to my 900 atm and I have no issues but I'm not sure they will also work fine with the HD7100. I'm just using monoprice cables (cheap but they work fine or have been so to this point with the panny).
I'm planning on using the HSB-600 (Sherwood Newcastle HDMI switcher) when my unit finally arrives (supposed to be in the next few weeks) with these same cables to the new PJ.

Is anyone using this PJ and 50' cable runs and if so any problems I should be aware of?

Thanks
Calvin

It gets worse!! Last night while watching Walk The Line with my wife it was dropping signal and picture out for a couple of seconds at a time in 720p over DVI!! This happened more regularly than in 1080i and to a much worse degree. This is not accceptable at all!! I can not imagine it being the cables or Oppo player as these are the same cables and DVD player used with my last two projectors and friends borrowed unit. They had no issues or problems at all in any up-converted resolution or with the cable type or length.

I am calling Optoma again tomorrow to find what is up with there very weak DVI and component interface on this projector!! It is no fun watching this projector now; as great a picture it may produce, this issue takes the joy out of it and is far more annoying than the slight transition that the AI iris caused in my Hitachi LCD projector.

I guess I will now try hooking the Oppo directly up to the Projector with very short cables, to completely rule that out. But who hooks up a high end ceiling mountable projector with six foot cords???? This will be such a pain to do as all my gear is nice and neatly tucked away in the cabinet at the front of the room where it should be. I did not think I would have any issues with this projector or have to resort to fooling around to try and make it produce a stable working picture. I thought that is what I paid for, when I bought this supposedly higer end product!!


MIKE

The Oppo is weak I had troubles with it with the H77, H79, NEC HT1000. Back then is when I gave up on long DVI cables and built the DVD player shelf closer to the projectors. I use 15' cables now and all the weak players work. The Bravo D2 and Oppo. Last night I tried for the first time DVI from the Comcast box that's far away. Using a 6ft cable to the HD3000 Scaler box and a 25' cable from the box, I got tons of sparklies. Ethereal does sell DVI amplifiers for the long runs.

I read someone with a Pany 900 uses a 50' DVI cable and wanted to know if that would work with the HD7100. 50' is really pushing it, I'd say no way.

Tom, if the Oppo is so weak why did it work with all of my other projectors? You had problems with the 77 & 79 both Optoma projectors. Also I have never ever had any problems over my component cables at 35 feet run lengths in any up-converted resolution or from any source including the Oppo and Cambridge Audio DVD players. Nor should I have, as that is a very average run length for any component cables and especially no problem for good cables.

Have you still not tried 720p versus 1080i over DVI direct from the Toshiba to the Optoma to see if this improves or not. Have you also tried 720p or 1080i over component again direct to this projector?

Let me know what you find out and please be more direct and specific with your answers as they seem a little vague and appear even a little evasive of the questions asked by myself and others.

Thanks,

Mike

Component feeds are excellent at very long lengths. I tried component out from the Toshiba and had some quirky problems. I forget all of them, copy right on SD dvd's I think, 720p and 480p looking soft. 480i to the scaler gave the best deinterlacing but 480i didn't look crisp like 1080i. I have the Tosh working fine with the scaler box through HDMI. If I don't buy the scaler box the Tosh will have to go back. Don't know if they can get a fix for the Tosh and HD7100 so I wouldn't recommend one yet.

Try the short cable from the Oppo, bet it works. I don't have the Oppo anymore to test with.

I just purchased this unit. Picture is amazing, but seems to have a brightness uniformity problem. Left side of image is brighter than right. Has anybody else had this problem. I'm also using a comcast hd box with mono-price 50ft. hdmi cable with dvi adapter. I go from cable box to a gefen 2x2 switcher to projector. I have no problem of any kind. Also using sony 400 disc changer thru hdmi and that is fine also. I'm running both at 720p. I don't have much time left to return projector over brightness issue so please help.( Tom?)

If you display a 100IRE white pattern with Avia or others it should look smooth corner to corner. Could be the Optics aren't aligned perfectly. You could need a replacement.

My my INHD tonight, Bonnie Raite video is awesome. It's the contrast blacks and that lens in there. Get another one.

That's a problem I didn't have with the two that I have been through so far. Picture was excellent. My third is due to arrive on Wed. of this week. Im tired of watching no HD on a 19" television from 20 feet.

Yes, I and another member as well, take a look back a page. I am awaiting my replacement unit and hopefully it will not have this issue. Ours shows up on a black or dark movie scene, when does yours rear it's ugly head?


Mike

It appears that both 720p and 1080i are working all of the sudden tonight??? Not sure why, but no drop outs at all in either resolution over DVI from the Oppo...strange. Even tried some of the other movies from the other night that were messing up, nothing happened they worked as well. I have not done anything different yet, was about to start pulling cords, but I may not have to now. I will keep an eye on it over the next day or two, to see what happens.

Tom, hope you have not taken any of this personally, as I and I am sure all of the other forum members appreciate your help and wealth of knowledge. Just wanted you to be clearer with your answers and follow up to questions, so that others do not get the wrong idea about your motive and start attacking you again.


Mike

Thanks guys, I will return it and get another one. I really only see the brightness issue during white scenes. Hopefully new one won't have this issue. I'll keep reading all your posts and let you know how i fair when new one comes. Again, thanks for your quick response (Tom, rking and upnorth.)

bill1908...

Sorry about your troubles...I had similar problems when I got mine:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=689267

-Alex-

Hey y'all,

Since the $300 rebate offer expires tomorrow, are we looking at a price drop next week?

Optoma has already announced a price drop to below $3,000.00 MSRP. See the info and review of the HD7100 from projector reviews.com.

I'm considering this one, but the short throw is really causing me problems.

My back wall is 13'4" from where the screen would be. The room is not light controlled and not likely to be... to any signifigant degree anyway. How large an image are we talking here, and how much screen gain would I need to get an acceptable image?

I noticed the OP has had an LT150. I have a LT150z right now. I've heard people complain about the noise from the HD7100. Surely it is a vast improvement from the LT150?

Thanks,
Gerald

Received unit #3 yesterday. I haven't had time to run it through all of it's paces yet, but at least the bulb has fired each time I have tried so far. Hopefully over the weekend I will have a chance to do some playing.

but the rebate ends tomorrow. What will they do? Extend rebate? Offer free bulb or lower price?

I posted this question in the DVD forums but was hoping to get some more specific answers from my fellow HD7100 owners specifically.

I just set up an Optoma HD7100 projector. I'm running HDMI to it from a Yamaha RX-v2600 A/V receiver that does upscaling and upconversion. I'm currently using my Xbox 360 via component as my DVD player. The PJ is awesome and I couldn't be happier with the picture from HD over Directv or 360 games. However, I'm not thrilled with the DVD picture. It seems rather grainy to me. I'd like to get the best picture possible and have a few questions.
Will I see a difference with an Oppo DVD player (or any progressive scan DVD player for that matter) being that I have a scaler in both the PJ and the receiver already?

What are the optimum settings I should be using? For example should I let the receiver scale or just run it straight through to the PJ? Any other tips?

I do plan on going w/ a HD DVD or Blu-ray player in the near future. I still have an extensive DVD library that I'm not likely to upgrade completely any time soon so standard DVD playback will still be vital. Will I be better off w/ a dedicated DVD player for ~$100 and a HD player or will these HD players going for $400 to $1000 do as good a job on standard DVDs as a dedicated DVD player as well as play HD?

By the way, 100+ hrs and not one HDCP problem, no failures to light, brightness remains bright and uniform throughout. Definatley a happy buyer here.

Flyhigh...

The Toshiba HD-A1 is considered to be one of the best upscaling players around. Many people who have bought them have put their high end Denon, Pioneer and botique players up for sale after seeing the SD picture.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=693891

I have the HD-A1 outputting to a Benq 8720 and am VERY hard pressed to see a difference between its SD output and that of my HTPC running tweaked with TheaterTek and FFDshow at 1080i and 720p.

There has also been some discussion that the CD audio quality of the Toshiba rivals many high end players. It has incredible DAC's and the chassis is super stable and isolated. I haven't listened to any CD's on it so I don't have first hand knowledge.

That being said, there have been issues reported with the HDCP/HDMI path to the Optoma 7100. I have heard that putting a processor in the chain between the projector and HD-A1 solves this. I don't know if the newest firmware from Toshiba has taken care of this issue either.

Price on the HD-A1 is ~$500.

Oh yeah...with the HD-A1 you get HD-DVD capability too.
-Alex-

flyhigh,

Does the 360 upconvert or is it just progressive? The oppo is regarded as a very good "bang for the buck" DVD player and comes very highly recommended (I don't own one but I am looking to purchase one and the 2600 when I get my basement HT finished) around here and on other forums. I would bet that the scaler in the OPPO or the 7100 would better the scaler in the 2600.

Also there have been some issues listed here as far as flicker regarding the 1080i input to the 7100.

My guess would be that you would see an improvement with the OPPO but that is just a guess. but for around 200 dollars I don't think you could beat the OPPO as a DVD player and its little brother is around 150 bucks and also seems to get high praise.

Don't know about the HD-A1, sounds like it is pretty good too, however I'm steering clear of the BR/HD-DVD thing until the format settles in a little or there is a dual format player available for less than 300 or so (yeah I know I'm dreaming for now anyway).

Regards,

RTROSE

There was a recent xbox 360 update that "improved DVD playback quality". I looked on the xbox website and it did not say whether it upscales, upconverts or is progresive or not. Like they say in "Things to do in Denver when your dead".........give it a name. What I mean is, you can call it what you want, upscaling, upconvert, whatever, it's just not giving me the picture that I want. I think I'll look into the HD-A1. I hate being an early adopter but for ~$300 more than an Oppo, I can get a great SD DVD player and a HD player, I might just go this route. Netflix has a decent amount of HD-DVD content already and BLU seems like it's having its problems so I don't anticipate getting stuck w/ a paperweight.

Now I'm a little concerned about some of the problems reported w/ the HD-A1 and the HD7100. I'd be running 3' HDMI from the player to my Yamaha 2600 and then 20' HDMI/DVI-D to the 7100. Are these issues resolved yet? Can anyone comment? I just don't have the money now for a scaler, so it would be HD-A1/Yamaha 2600/HD 7100.

Flyhigh...

I have my HD-A1 running through the Yamaha HTR-5990. No problems with the HDMI passthrough between the Toshiba, the receiver and my Benq. All HDMI/HDCP handshakes through the receiver are good. Your 2600 is a close cousin so I can't see problems there either.

I didn't get to test the HD-A1 with the 7100 when I had it. I have only heard about the problems. I know that Optoma was working on a fix or at least promised one. I wonder if the passthrough the Yamaha would fix the chain?

BTW...I think the improvement in the upscaling on the Xbox360 is through the 15 pin VGA breakout ONLY. I tested a 360 and they opened it up after the latest update from Live to let you play your DVD at any native resolution...480p, 720p or 1080i. This does not apply to component out as the VGA was grandfathered into the upscaling protections of content. Unfortunately, the output, while better at the higher resolutions, is still poor compared to a HTPC or DVD player.

-Alex-

Hold off on the HDA1 there's no change yet with the HD7100. Unless you use the Scaler box than it will work. Best players are still Faroudja chipped players, a Panasonic S97 or Oppo. Testing the HDA1 deinterlacing I found it's just shy of good. Ratings are Poor Good Excellent. You get Excellent with the Pany or Oppo.

So if you want to know you're getting the best deinterlacing for SD/DVD I'd use the S97. But in the real world many will have a hard time seeing what the better deinterlacing is therefore the HDA1 looks great to them. I fall in this category, the HDA1 displaying SD/DVD when working looked super with the HD7100.

New replacement arrived. Hooked it up and so far no problems and no drop outs over the 35 foot DVI or Component cables up-converted to any resolution, 720p or 1080i. Will keep an eye on it over the next couple of days though. There does not appear to be as much of a light leak in the top corner on dark scenes; it's there just not as bad as before. The IR sensor works fine, and I am also happy to report that using the Harmony 880 to control the projector works like a charm, without the limitations of the projectors accompanying factory remote.

Picture is excellent and again I have only used the Get Gray disc to calibrate brightness, contrast and sharpness. Will hopefully get to do a full Colorfacts calibration run this long weekend and post my result along with pics by Monday.

All is well for now,

Mike