Official Optoma HD7100, HD7300 + HD3000 Scaler thread. - Page 2

This morning I had no bulb fire with everything turned off. So, cancel the thought that sources have to be turned on last. On the second attempt it fired with sources turned on.

No HDMI problem it's just the HDA1. I run a Pany S97 with HDMI and I'm testing the Optoma HD3000 which is HDMI. I can run components from my Comcast HD with the HD3000 and have scale it to 720p out of HDMI with no problem.

I was at the factory yesterday and their Engineer Mgr. is aware of the problem. He tried the HDA1 with many other Optoma models and there's no problem. Wing talked to Toshiba and they're sending him a firmware. I thought that just may be the 1.2 which mine has. He thought it might be different, we'll see.

On my HD7100 I've never pulled the plug to get it to fire up. Early on it was slow a few times and waiting or hitting the direct signal button on the remote made it fire up. In these last several weeks it has started fast every time. You know there are a number of other owners that aren't having problems and are enjoying the projector, they pm'ed me but don't post in the public forum. The projector comes with a 3year warranty so you're covered. If you have a problem all can be made well.

I'll do a review on the HD3000 with the HD7100/HD7300 soon. So far it's looking like an incredible device and a must have for the HD7100.

guitarman,

I understand what you are saying in regards to the warranty, and yes three years is a very good warranty IMO. I know that you have been beaten up around here a few times and I admire you for continuing to provide us with some very good info, but I would like to state that if I do purchase this pj I don't WANT to use the warranty. It is good insurance, but not having to use it is even better. I'm glad that my vehicle came with a 36,000 mile warranty, but I don't WANT to use it either. Good insurance, but it would be better if I wasn't bothered with HAVING to use it at all!

It seems that you have a pretty steady rapport with Optoma, are they aware of the issue? Is this issue just a few of the first pj's and now it has been worked out? You state that for the past few weeks that there has not been a problem with your pj. Can you give us any idea what the problem may be?

Lots of questions I know but your answers are greatly appricaiated.

Regards,

RTROSE

RTROSE,

In the few times I've used my 7100, I've not had any startup problems. HDMI from my Denon 2910 has worked flawlessly, too. I'll post if I do experience problems in the future.

Good luck,
Don

guitarman,

glad to hear you have the hd3000. I'm anxiously awaiting your review. what has you most impressed so far? also, do you know what the differences are between the 7100 and 7300. What I've found is 6000:1 contrast and HDMI. your comments are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Don

"I do purchase this pj I don't WANT to use the warranty".

I know what you mean. better wait for more of a track record.

On the scaler box. There's a ton of adjustments and features available. Maybe the contrast enhancement boosts the CR level. It certainly can brighten up an image. Anybody that needed more black detail the scaler can fill the bill.

I sent a 480i signal from the HDA1 and noticed the Gennum chip could do the HQV motion detail test better than the Faroudja chipped players I have. The test where the race car passes the stands. There's absolutely no lag time on the frame pickup. With the Faroudja chip there's a split second of lag time. More testing needed ugh.

Agree with your philosophy on warranties. I have a feeling that if you purchase this projector the warranty will be something that you will use. Thankfully, AVS is sending me a second RA# so that I can return the one I now have. Still have to decide what to buy to replace it. I LOVE the picture quality, but I don't like being a beta (alpha) tester unless I am being compensated for being so.

I recently spent $8-9k for hurricane shutters for some commercial property. Just as with warranties, I hope I never have to use them.

Ugh, I'm upgrading two H77's today and the Toshiba HD player works flawlessly with both of them. I don't have to worry about the HDMI handshake no matter how I try to foul it up. PJ/display off, HD player on first nothing fouls up the connection. Plus I can use my long HDMI cables. Still no easy go with the HD7100.

For anybody having trouble with the HDMI handshake and the HDA1. You don't have to unplug it or turn it off. What works best for me is to open the tray door and while it's open pull the HDMI cable out of the player and then replace it, no waiting needed. Then close the tray. I have it working right now on the first re-try with the procedure above. Also using a 35' HDMI cable and the picture is clean with no sparklies. I hope the engineers at Optoma can figure out the problem or work with Toshiba on the problem, because the player displays stellar images for HD and SD DVD's.

I wanna be able to use this puppy with the HD7100.

For HD7100 owners I didn't get around to tuning the grayscale for the Toshiba with colorfacts but do have the correct black and white settings from using the Accupel at RGB DVI-V/1080i

Brightness -2
Contrast 15
Sharpness / Sharpest
Gamma 2.2
Color Temp 6500k
(gray patterns look excellent with these settings)

Do not use the Toshiba's Enhanced black level, stick with normal video level. Which matches up well with the Accupels reference DVI-V/1080i (video reference black level).

A quick ? on the 7100 and the HDa1...

If you put a processor in the chain between the 7100 and HDa1 will the proper handshake occur? That is HDa1 to iScan VPwhatever to Optoma 7100 = a picture...

Also, currently trying to decide between the 7100 and the Benq 8270....any thoughts?

Thanks,
-Alex-

projector central has the review up (7100) so guitarman is justified,lol

Tom have you ever mentioned your preference between this and the H79?

I e-mailed projectorcentral re the color accuracy and Evan said that it wasn't an issue on their unit. When also asked re his preference compared to the Samsung 710, he thinks the Sammy is better in color precision but the HD7100 is more superior in contrast and saturation. While other may have a preference for the more precise color and be willing to sacrifice contrast and saturation to get it, his personal preference is the HD7100 in terms of overall image quality.

Is this accomplished via gamma adjustments with the external scaler? This would definitely be a good feature.


The HD-A1 has always worked perfectly with my H77 from day 1.

This is a pretty good endorsement for the 7100. I haven't had time to read Evan's review yet, did he comment on shadow detail at all?

Re Processor and HDA1, It can but I'm still testing things. Didn't work thru HDMI but component at 480i to the scaler worked. I had the scaler output 1080i thru it's HDMI out. There has to be a better way. Plus I'm still testing how the scaler/pj can handle longer cables. I've been having trouble with some of my cheaper 25' cables. Still have more to do.

Yes the scalers gamma control is awesome and can work great with the 7100.

I'l have to read PC review of the HD7100, I bet he mentioned the Optic's are special. If he didn't notice the clarity this lens does he missed a major plus the projector has.

Just finished reading Evan Powell's review of the 7100, and it is interesting to note that he thinks shadow detail on the 7100 is superior to the H79 in a side by side comparison, although others have criticized the 7100 in this regard.

He also mentions the high quality of the lens system used by the 7100, so it looks like you nailed that one Tom.

Also, interesting to note that there is no mention of screen door in his review. If he noticed it at all, he must not have been bothered by it. So overall Tom, it seems like your review of the 7100 in your original thread may have been right on the money.

It's too bad about the problems that the 7100 has with the Toshiba HD-A1. This is a real deal breaker for me until they get this resolved, since I sold my Denon 2910 and replaced it with the Toshiba.

I do find it interesting though that the 7100 did not receive the "HIGHLY RATED" endorsement from PC.

I does look as though Tom/guitarman did "git it right" with his review. There is also a mention about the noise level of this projector, but it did not seem to be an issue in the review as some around here have made it to be.

The sync issues were also addressed briefly but no mention the other startup issue that is being seen. I guess that if you don't experience it, you can't report it.

I just hope the bugs get worked out and I can find a way around this projectors mounting requirements for my installation situation.

Regards,

RTROSE

I am in the process of substituting out a SE 50HD (DLP Darkchip 2+) for a client and replacing it with this puppy. In looking for an inexpensive solution with a short throw distance comparable to the SE 50HD there just aren't many products available. So, when I ran across this one I naturally wanted to get something that throws a quality image. Not too many people have had a chance to review this projector and there wasn't much insight on the web so I took the chance and proceeded with it as the replacement. After receiving it and setting it up to see if my selection was a correct one I offer these insights to this unit.

1. It is no lie that the image out of the box is outstanding. First, what stands out is the color saturation. Simply they are vibrant and realistic. Second, the clarity of the image (480p from the source) is sharp and crisp. There is no need to turn the sharpness up (adding unwanted edge enhancement) to improve the image. In fact, the Normal setting seems ideal. Third, no screen door effect or Moire. The screen I set it up on was a high contrast gray, perforated, 106" diagonal.

2. Turning the Bright mode off puts the projector in the low brightness with the lower fan speed. Turning the Bright mode on puts it into high brightness and a louder fan speed. With bright mode off the image has plenty of punch to it, even with a small amount of light on. Like low accent lighting that does not interfere with the light path of the projector. The fan speed at this level is no problem whatsoever. I have not viewed it for any length of time with the bright mode on to really see if the fan noise is annoying. Although as soon as you go from bright mode off to on you notice the fan pick up speed immediately.

3. One problem I did notice was some mosquito noise mostly on video based material that has dark action scenes or fields of solid color like blue skies. I think this is why the 7300 was created. The 7300 appears to be the exact same projector with the addition of a scaler. This projector even has the model name 7300. The scaler provided seems to be one that is ideal for removing mosquito noise.

These are just a few observations fresh out of the box in a known test environment. Setup and Calibration at the clients house must still be done. But for all intensive purposes this is a step up from the SE 50HD for a lot less money. DLP projector price/performance just took a huge leap with this projector.

One thing to note about the short throw lens is that long lengths of cable become unncessary, if the equipment is located up front (as many DIY do it). The shorter length cables provide a less chance of degrading the image.

David, did you see any RBE with the slower color wheel? Also does anyone know if the engine is sealed on this unit?

Thanks,
-Alex-

No, I did not see any RBE with this projector. Although, to tell you the truth I have only seen RBE in the first generation Sharp DLPs when they came out several years ago. The faster, multi-subdivided color wheels have done wonders for mitigating this effect for me and my clients. I have not looked under the cover to see if it has a sealed light path internal to the projector. That is a good point for dust collection. Earlier projectors (especially the SE 50HD) required frequent cleaning of the the filters. In looking over the documentation, cleaning the filters is not an issue, the documentation indicates that the projectors filters can be cleaned in place while ceiling mounted. This is pretty big issue for DIYers, making it a simpler DIY task rather than paying for the service.

Just received my HD7100 today and my HT is now nearly complete. I'm frustrated because all my toys (projector, receiver, xbox 360...) came within 1 day of each other so I haven't had time to set everything up yet. My problem is that Directv is coming tomorrow to hook up my HD service and they need for me to actually have an HD capable display working for them. I temporarily hooked up my HD7100 to the xbox 360, placed the PJ on a snack tray on my riser and played LOTR:Return of The King for a few scenes to test it out (no sound yet ). Now granted, I'm projecting onto 4x8 white panneling which is kind of glossy from Lowes but I was blown away by the picture. This is my first PJ so I don't have the frame of refrence that some of you do but I can say that so far, I'm very impressed. More reviews will follow after I'm fully set up.

I have one question. I've looked through the manual and some posts here but want to be absolutely certain of my next step. I'm planning on a 106" screen from Carada. My ceiling which is a drop ceiling is 86" off the ground. There is a 3" vailance that runs along the top of my screen wall. That leaves me with 83" from the top of the screen to the floor and I would like to keep the screen as high as possible. The Carada Criterion screens have a 3.5" frame around them so the actual screen material would start 79.5" off the floor or 6.5" off the ceiling. I should be receiving my Chief RPA-U mount tomorrow and want to know the height which I should mount the PJ. I need to run the mounting pipe through the drop ceiling and would like the PJ mounted as tight to the ceiling as possible but don't want to sacrifice having to angle the PJ or diminish PQ in anyway. With the offset capabilities in this PJ how far down off the ceiling should the center of my lense be? If the PJ is flush w/ the ceilng, the center of the lense would be 3 3/8" from the ceiling. Would this work? Do I have flexibilitiy to lower the PJ or does it need to be lower or higher, although I don't know if I can do higher. I'm a bit confused on how the math from the owners manual plays out in the real world.

Go with the projector flush to the drop cieling and you should be all right. with the manual lens shift on 106" diagonal screen you have 4.4" to play with. So 6 1/2 - 3 3/8 gives you a lens shift of 3 1/8. You are within the 4.4" lens shift for a 106" screen. The manual states there is a +- 3% on the 4.4". So in this scenario by mounting the projector upside down flush with the drop cieling you have to use the lens shift to adjust the image down to the top of the screen.

I'm fairly new to this stuff so bear with me.

I will be putting a dedicated home theater in my new house which will be finished this fall. The HD7100 really peaked my interest as the reviews state an unmatched picture quality for the price range.

Now all the problems that this projecter has seem to be directly linked to the introduction of a scalar or DVI to HDMI switch correct? I have a Denon 2910, upconverts to 720p and 1080i, that will move from my family room to the HT when I move, that has both DVI and HDMI outs. If I go DVI direct from the player to the projector will there be a problem? (This room will be for movies and nothing else) Do I need a scalar if my DVD player does it for me?

Also why is converting DVI to HDMI so common? I've read that the only difference is that HDMI carries audio as well which shouldn't matter if you're going to a projector. Also doesn't DVI sustain the signal over a greater length of cable than HDMI?

Heney

You should not have any issues with the Denon 2910 connected to the optoma. The problems that Guitarman talks about in previous posts are strictly related to the Toshiba HD DVD player.

Good to hear, I've still got a ways before I make a final decision, but that recent article on projectorcentral sold me. I was just about to consider forking out the extra for the h79, but to hear that the hd7100 looks as good, if not better than the h79, for a fraction of the price in music to my ears.

Anyone know how this projector would work as Constant Height? Would I need a scalar for the squeeze?

Title pretty much says it all -- I am on 6100 feet elevation and I know that HD7100 is not altitude rated (at least no mention of it in the manual) -- PJ will be used in dedicated HT room in the basement where the temp is never higher than 70 F -- will that make a difference since temperature is pretty low to start with ?

Thanks, Davie.

Due to the short throw, the 7100 is not a good candidate for constant height.

Eclipse

I am in Denver also and I use an H77 in a basement HT with no problems. I would think the 7100 would be fine also.

phisch got right to the point. Short throw PJs suffer notable pincushioning of the image. Depending on the anamorphic lens you may also suffer unwanted vignetting. The only way I know to combat these issues is to collapse the image inside a border, which is just the opposite direction you want to go. Many PJs support this option, so no scaler is required.

Hmmm.... well the constant height issue may turn problematic. I'm not 100% sold on them yet, as a lot of my collection is old animated flicks in 1.33:1. I love the look of it, and agree that 2.35:1 should be the largest format, but this projectors reviews are tough to beat for the money.

How long of a throw would you need to get rid of all that "pincushioning"?