OFFICIAL Toshiba firmware update thread: 2.0 and or CD is here! - Page 95

The IBM 360 Model 50 shown in my previous post is proudy displayed in my office. This model was actually the first computer I programmed back in the very early 70's. I was considering illuminating some of the lights however each bulb draws 100ma. There are around 300 bulbs.

Very few of these exist today because most of them were sold for scrap. Each and every lead on every bulb and other components are made of gold!

If these numbers mean anything to you 2311, 2314, 3330, 2400, 029, 1403 you have been around computers a long time. Open the Pod Bay doors HAL! And oh yeah, never ever pull the Emergency Pull Knob!

Algol 68 on a UNIVAC 1110 - September 1973

2311 = Single unit removable disk drive
2413 = Multiple unit removable disk drive
3330 = Multiple unit removable disk drive (also knicknamed the pizza oven)
2400 = Magnetic tape drive series
029 = card punch
1403 = chain drive printer

I actually started back on 1401/1460 and 7070/7074 computers in autocoder (a real mans programming language). I once saw a 370/155 at the Chicago Museum of Science and Industry a number of years after they had gone out of data and stared at it for a few minutes, there was something not right about it, somone had reversed the LOAD and INTERRUPT buttons on the panel. Sorry for the OT response to the thread.

it is finally updating.

thanks to drhankz for the nero 7 link.

to install nero i had to install direcxtx 9.0c. this in turn told me i had to install .net framework v1.1.4322. so i found and did that. then directx 9.0c told me the crypographic services had some cabinet file problem. searching the ms site revealed i needed to open a command prompt and type regsvr32 dllname.dll for about 10 different dlls, pressing ok after each one. then i was able to install directx and then nero, make my cd and put it in the A1.

whew. but thanks everyone for keeping me going!

james

ps somewhere in my basement i have a portable CPM machine.

As long as we are sauntering down memory lane...... (rad is starting to make me feel young again...) can I mention how I was the envy of all my friends when I obtained a Hard Disk Drive ("WOW) for my Apple Lisa!! It was 5 whole megabytes and only cost $1,500!!!

Or maybe when I scored the 2-megabyte memory upgrade card for my Amiga 1000 that made me the current envy of the neighborhood...... it think I was able to "steal' it for only $600.

I have tried to do a search for this but to many hits came up...

I installed the leaked 2.0 firmware and have had som trouble with a couple of movies since, "end of days" and "MI III" otherwise it works great with the True HD..

(stuttering, lockup of player in MI III)

Should I install the "real" official 2.0 firmware?
Do I have to degrade to 1.4 and then up again to 2.0 using cd´s?

Or could I just insert 2.0 cd an install again?

Does anybody know if the leaked version are the same as the real official?

Wow - I remember that Computer - I carried it through a lot of airports.

Heavier than my luggage.

To my knowledge the leaked one is the official one. At least, they have the same revision numbers. So, if you want to re-install with the official disc, you will have to back up to some previous version first.

I jst installed the official 2.0 over my leaked 2.0 firmware.
I did not degrade to 1.4...

I used a CD to "upgrade". It was no problem I don´t see any difference but it feels better to have the official release of 2.0....

Once a 2.0 software update is done, leaked disc or official disc, there is no possibility to return to a previous version.

i had no luck either making the .ISO file to work with the HD-A1. I burned it with nero to a CD-R but have the NO PLAY scrolling.

Someone has a link to the .nrg file ?

Thx.

www.1080x1920.net

Thx.

Beside DTHD, is it really worth it to upgrade to 2.0? My unit is working flawlessly.

YES as you can read on the Toshiba HD DVD Support site.

Lots of things fixed.

Heya.

I have a XA1 on 1.3 firmware that is working fine for me. My player is connected to my Sony GIII with a HDMI-to-DVI-D cable.

I've been toying with the idea of trying 2.0 firmware, but leery of "black crush" and some reports of "stuttering and locking of player", plus the fact i can't go back to 1.3 if it doesnt work out.

My question is: I have read that 1.4 and 2.0 had "black crush" that 1.2 / 1.3 didn't have.
If i try firmware 1.4, will i be seeing the same picture quality i would be seeing with 2.0?
That way i could see with 1.4 what 2.0 looks like.. and if it looked bad i could STILL go back to 1.3.

Does 1.4 / 2.0 have the same qualities are far as the movie playing ok.. stuttering (or not) etc? I have no probs at all with 1.3.

Any Input would be appreciated.. So far i guess i'm holding out for 2.1. But i *have* read that some people are happy with 2.0. But, I have read a lot of complaints also.

I have the same setup (GWIII HDMI>DVI). Don't even joke about going higher than 1.3.

I did and discovered the dreaded "Black Crush" bug. Out of sheer frustration I finally purchased a second A1 with 1.4 so I could revert back to 1.2 ( You can't go back from 2.0).

I'm using the original A1 (2.0) with the projector in my "Movie Only" home theater room. It is working great with HDMI>HDMI.

Hopefully we will see a fix in a future firmware upgrade, but this is by no means a certainty.

You can add your name to the list by calling Toshiba support and addressing your concern about Black Crush with Andy McEnroe. He is the guy who can get the firmare correction in the works.

I have been using 2.0 since it was 'leaked' prior to the official release. No problems at all with a HDMI-DVI connection to my Mits 65813. No 'black crush', no problems with playback (purchased and Netflix disks).

Many folks are interchanging 'black crush' and the inability to pass BTB. It seems in many cases that if someone thinks their display cannot pass BTB, it also suffers from 'black crush', which is not necessarily the case. One is used for calibration (BTB) and the other ('black crush') describes the lack of detail in dark scenes (the various levels of visible black are 'crushed' and details are no longer visible).

I am certain some have had some issues with the 2.0 firmware, but it is not 'across the board' and also appears to be display-dependent. Hope this info helps.

web

I do know at this point the video on component with 1.0 was a bit darker than when I went to 1.3 firmware. When I was on 1.0 (which was only a day or 2) I didn't check it out w/ the THX disc to see what was going on grayscale wise.

After going to 1.3 firmware, I continued to use component video until my Hdmi to dvi cable arrived. On component out i do have BTB, though I don't' using the Hdmi output. However setting the display up w/ the THX disc the levels are the same on either output. The video looks good.. and it matches the levels for my Pioneer dvd player on another input. From reading other post I gather that wouldn't hold true if i go to 2.0 firmware.

Thanks to Videonut for relating his experience, seeing as how we have the same Monitor. I'll hold off and see how the next firmware revision goes.

I would suggest trying out 1.4 before diving into 2.0. There are a couple of big reasons to upgrade to 2.0 which I am struggling with right now:

1) TrueHD 5.1
2) U-Control functionality
3) Unless you have 2.0, you can't watch King Kong.

That's right, Universal U-Control discs (except Tokyo Drift) are blocking users from even watching the movie unless they have upgraded to 2.0. So far that is only King Kong and The Break-Up, but I fear it will be every U-Control disc from now on.

Thats why I was asking if the video levels on 1.4 are the same as on 2.0. for hdmi - dvi. Does anyone know for sure?


Yeah I have read that. I wasn't for sure everyone had that experience or just a few.

I don't know it could be measured, but the fact is that crushed blacks were introduced in 1.4 and remain in 2.0.


Most people on here have 2.0, or an XBOX add-on. Without either, you can't watch the movie.

I just bought a brand new HD-A1 and I havent hooked it up yet... when updating the firmware does it have to be plugged into the TV so I can see things going on? Or does it do that on the menu? My ethernet cord isnt that long I dont think... anyone?

Is the update easy, the way the book is written it makes it sound kind of complicated. It says I should configure some settings first.... someone told me they just plugged it in and it almost did the rest... I dont want to screw anything up.

Reflex,
There are 2 ways to update the firmware:
1) Using the ISO image burned on CD or DVD
2) using the Ethernet port on the back of the unit, connecting it to a router that is connected to the net.
Either method requires the unit to be connected to the TV because you have to go thru menu levels to initiate the upgrade or to see what's going on, especially if you are not too sure that you are doing it ok.

I used both methods, using the Ethernet connection first.

My 'cord' is not too long either, but by moving my cable modem and my router towards the unit, and then finally connecting the router to my XA1, all using 6 feet long Ethernet cables, I was able to span the over 18 feet distance from the cable connection to the unit. There is a menu option that allows to configure the port on the unit to use the connection. If you have a small network at home, you will not have any problem with the config. It took over 30 minutes for the software to download, so be patient.

The other method is easier if you have the ISO image. I used NERO to burn it to a DVD and just plopped it on the tray. That's all there is to it.

Franzius

Fettastic

really?

I'm using a HDMI to DVI using firmware version 2.0

How do I know if it's got the black crush? It seems to pass BTB bars on the get gray calibration DVD. Is the BTB bars the same for HD-DVD?

OK, I've tried upgrading the my HD-A1 firmware three times with the cd and twice with the rear port on the player with no success. After reading about all the version 2.0 hiccups I decided to wait for the latest firmware (2.1?). That is until today, when I purchased King Kong. This thing will not play. Now I know what Moses must have felt like, when God showed him the promised land but was unable to enter himself. Now I'm desperate. I have read several threads in order to find any steps that I may have missed in the upgrade process, but to no avail. Is someone willing to walk me through the upgrade process? Did I mention that I'm a little desperate? Thanks in advance.

Juan Solo

Was it the Toshiba CD for the 2.0 update?

If not, when you downloaded the update to your computer, what did you do to copy the image to a CD?

mfabien,
No, it was not the Toshiba cd. I got access to a link with the iso image that was posted by a member. Twice we (my brother and I) burned it to cd with a regular burn program and the third time using his nero program.

Juan Solo,

If you get a .nrg file, click on it and Nero will proceed with making an "image" CD. The writing speed must be 16x and preferably 8x for best results.

Does anyone have the upgrades discs that they no longer need ?