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Dynaudio Owner's Thread - Page 660

post #19771 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceTripper View Post

Good plan.

I started with a UnitQute, added a NAP250, added a NAC 202, and upgraded the 202 to a 282. After getting the 202, I traded-in the Qute for a ND5 XS. That was over the course of about two years.

The Nait XS is a fantastic place to start.

thanks. it will all depend on how the system pulls together. I think the XS will do great for what I want to do; and If I feel the need to move up, I can add the NAP200 to the XS and run the XS as a pre-amp. Of course I could add a TeddyCap or FlatCap also. I think this and some 260s will put me right where I need to be tho. Itll be slow and steady tho.
post #19772 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b View PostHi WSE

I have found that with any company "customer service" at times can be hit an miss, but from my experience their CS has been very good even with gear I've purchased second hand. As for the smell, I agree it's not acceptable, as their product is coming boxed directly from China I would have called and asked to speak to Dan or Lonnie as it's in their best interest to know first hand what shape their product is arriving in to customer. Personally I believe they really are trying their best at manufacturing great product for the best price so I wouldn't right them off just yet.
The net is inundated with complaints from purchasers of high end equipment, don't even mention audio gear look at cars!!!!!eek.gif

I did speak with the owner Dan, and he suggested that I air them out! He told me he ver heard that before!!! Anyway I am done now!

 

Lonnie never returned my emails!

post #19773 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by wse View Post

I did speak with the owner Dan, and he suggested that I air them out! He told me he ver heard that before!!! Anyway I am done now!

Lonnie never returned my emails!

"He told me he ver heard that before!!!" I'm sure he was as perturbed as you were on hearing about the smell, but fair enough, you did what you could.
post #19774 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post

Bass - the lower frequencies of the audio spectrum
Base - the bottom of something

Bad habit, but we've been there before!!biggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b View Post



BASS is a fish and a bass guitar but a base note is a low tone hence lower, upper base

Quote:
Originally Posted by Borderdog View Post


Sorry Rob, but base notes refer to fragrances and perfume. Really. Google or Bing it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynero View Post


I can see your logic here but I still believe using "base" instead of bass is inaccurate.


I've never heard the term "base note" before and when I googled it I got results for perfume and fragrance not audio engineering.


To say that something does "lower base" is less accurate than "lower bass"

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisWiggles View Post

It's bass.


A base is what you steal in baseball.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b View Post


Thanks g


The “B” word has come up quite often in music discussions and it really enters a grey area and arguments abound.

When speaking of speakers and subs “base” may be in reference to the foundation as in basement or bass as in terms of actual instrumentaion.

As a composer and I say I need more bass/base am I referring to adding bass as in bass guitar or more body, or again a foundation to the music?


I believe Games Galway was asked once which is correct flautist or flutist,

His reply was that he played the flute and not a flaut.


Anyway you get the point; semantics can be a pain in the derrière.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gvf View Post


Interesting how people decide facts because of search results.


Base notes and chords....Sure, it's artistic freedom...
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b View Post

Ok, ok, alright already.


Base = bottom, foundation, underpinning, at the bottom of, support, pedestal, platform , foot,


bass= deep, low


I stand corrected


But just to quote from the powers to be.

"@Everyone who replied to me about the "Base vs. Bass" - Yes, one could use the word base as place to start, however, it's too confusing. It would be much more appropriate to use the word "tonic." This refers to the starting note of a scale. Since "base" is a homophone of "bass," it just adds to the confusion if the person knows only a little bit about music."


From- One O'Clock Daily - Bobby McFerrin and the Pentatonic Scale


But at least I'm not alone in using base
Quote:
Originally Posted by math-geek View Post

Bickering over this is useless and drags us down to the dregs of many other AVS threads. Let's stop this arguing over semantics. I want to read about the great Dynaudio speakers and their user's experiences! I have made some untoward comments on this thread but recanted on them. Let's keep the thread on topic and move on. We are the light of AVS, let us all keep it that way.

Edited by rob80b - 6/30/13 at 8:56am
post #19775 of 21660
Or

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/the-treble-and-bass-clefs-in-piano-music0.html
"Your left hand typically plays the lower notes on the keyboard, which are also called bass notes. (For the record, that’s pronounced like base, not like the fish you caught last weekend.) The base notes are generally indicated by the bass clef."
post #19776 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by wse View Post

I did speak with the owner Dan, and he suggested that I air them out! He told me he ver heard that before!!! Anyway I am done now!

Lonnie never returned my emails!
That's interesting since most people like their customer service. But of course even the companies that have great customer service won't be able to satisfy every customer.

One thing that appeals to me about naim is that they'll repair your unit or bring it up to modern specs for as longs as you own it. I know there are other companies that do that also; audio research and Bryston and also odyssey audio come to mind.
post #19777 of 21660
^^^ Kinda like pimps have to upgrade their ladies from time to time.
post #19778 of 21660
post #19779 of 21660
And don't forget the bass driver after "Brunch", although for the full impact a sub is mandatory (believe me). wink.gif

"Planet-Drum" -Mickey-Hart

http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Drum-Mickey-Hart/dp/B0013LL00E/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1372612560&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=micky+hart
post #19780 of 21660
Hey...anyone actually bi-amp?
post #19781 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDLehner View Post

Hey...anyone actually bi-amp?

Whatcha buy now????? rolleyes.gif
post #19782 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b View Post

Whatcha buy now????? rolleyes.gif

Well...that's not really why I'm asking (well...kinda wink.gif)

I was just wondering how it works...in practice? If you have a pre-amp, that has dual-outputs; can you drive two amps...without any kind of timing issues?
post #19783 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDLehner View Post

Well...that's not really why I'm asking (well...kinda wink.gif)

I was just wondering how it works...in practice? If you have a pre-amp, that has dual-outputs; can you drive two amps...without any kind of timing issues?

There should be no problems at all, both outputs should have identical voltage and impedence, unless one is balanced and the other is single ended, then there would be a voltage differences which should be rectified at the amp end.
Although there may be some pre-amps (tubes) that might offer a choice of impedance/voltage output.
If your nominal input is around 50K for each amp and not a heavy 600 ohms draw you should be ok.
And If you're thinking there might be a timing differences even this guy would have problems detecting it.

Edited by rob80b - 6/30/13 at 9:25pm
post #19784 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDLehner View Post

............. can you drive two amps...without any kind of timing issues?

Hi CD

What's the max voltage output of the pre, 5, 10, 15 volts ? and input sensitivity of the amps 1 volt/29dBs ? and speaker load/sensitivity 4 ohms/86dbs ? It'll determine how loud you'll get before clipping.
post #19785 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b View Post

Hi CD

What's the max voltage output of the pre, 5, 10, 15 volts ? and input sensitivity of the amps 1 volt/29dBs ? and speaker load/sensitivity 4 ohms/86dbs ? It'll determine how loud you'll get before clipping.

Maximum Output Voltage < 1% THD = 60 volts

Not sure I know the rest...yet.
post #19786 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDLehner View Post

Maximum Output Voltage < 1% THD = 60 volts

Not sure I know the rest...yet.

Hi CD

One needs to know the output voltage of your source, normally around 2 volts although 1 volt and 3 volts is not uncommon. If the amp has an input sensitivity of 1volt/29b to reach full power with an unbalanced connection then the preamp needs to supply the current, it acts as a middle man or “The Attenuator” which controls the voltage, the pre should not have to amplify the source voltage, otherwise more noise is generated.
Proper impedance between the pre and the amp is also very important, the generally accepted rule is 1 to 10, meaning the source and pre has the lower impedance and the amp the higher so that there is less resistance in feeding the amp, most amps are around 50K and sources and preamp are usually a lot less, this improves the electrical flow so that cables have a minimal effect on the signal.

Under normal circumstance there should be no problem with today’s equipment but that’s not a guarantee optimal performance. An inefficient speaker combined with a pre that cannot supply sufficient current/voltage to the amp will fail with dynamic peaks and will suck the life out the music through no fault of the amplifier.

The above is an over generalization as there are many are other parts to the equation such how much the actually speaker load and efficiency varies and its relation to the amps ability also to supply the necessary power if there is a constant change lets say in the speakers impedance from 4 to 16 ohms. Which takes us back to the preamp as everything is connected and one cannot work without the other.

Visualize the affect of feeding a fire hose with a lawn hose (lack of power) mad.gif and vise versa (distortion, overload). eek.gif

But in a nutshell, if one preamp is to supply sufficient current to two amps, also taking into consideration the speaker load that can change things dramatically; the electrical specs of the source, preamp, amp and speakers need to be known, especially if they are from different manufactures.
Edited by rob80b - 6/30/13 at 9:23pm
post #19787 of 21660
or you could put the bridge back on and be done with it, lol
post #19788 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b View Post


Cool did you draw this! Impressive!
post #19789 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Grooms View Post

or you could put the bridge back on and be done with it, lol

Well he did ask. smile.gif
post #19790 of 21660
post #19791 of 21660
Cecil Taylor “In Florescence”
Mad genius or just mad.


Track 12 "Chal Chuiatlichue Green Goddess...", this cut shows off the ability of the Special 25s to throw great depth within the confines of the studio so that the listener has an uncanny sense of partaking in the Trio’s folly.
post #19792 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b View Post

Well he did ask. smile.gif

Yup; just curious.

How about this; better jumpers...than the solid "bridge", that comes outta da box?
post #19793 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDLehner View Post

Yup; just curious.

How about this; better jumpers...than the solid "bridge", that comes outta da box?

Shouldn't make a difference, but there is always the placebo effect. smile.gif
post #19794 of 21660
Bi-amping may have benefits, some try try bi-wiring but this being a Dynaudio thread these

do not come into the equation and remember Danes don't lie.biggrin.gif
post #19795 of 21660
confused.gifconfused.gifconfused.gif
post #19796 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDLehner View Post

confused.gifconfused.gifconfused.gif

How about this off the wall approach; two pre-amps and two amps, but one set-up is a all tubes and sends a vinyl version to the upper mid-range and tweeter while the other is all solid state and sends a digital signal for the base!!!!
Synchronization might be an issue but still………..biggrin.gif

(too much time on my hands redface.gif )
post #19797 of 21660
Alright. I've now lived wit the 4 GIK Tri traps for about a week. What surprised me was that the bass actually got louder, or better said: I have lesser nulls and lesser peaks, making it a lot easier to blend in the REL. This weekend I fiddled again with the REL and I had to lower the crossover to 27Hz and had to lower the gain to about 9 o clock.

Call me impressed by the result. Like some stated before: It's hard to justify buying expensive gear, when your room has about as much impact on the sounds as your speakers. Why even buy a speaker with a linear frequency response when your room turns the frequency response into a big mess with 30dB differences between frequencies that are close to each other.

Overall the bass response improved by a lot and this is especially notable when walking trough the room (or should I say: 'less notable'). Without the bass traps, in a lot of songs the bass sometimes almost disappeared on some notes.

What surprised me the most was the clarity gained in the higher end of the spectrum. I am hearing small details in songs I've heard hundreds of times, that I didn't notice before.

And all that for around $400 or 600 for me because of VAT and shipping costs (not even that bad for 40kg of weight).

I'll be sure to get some more room treatments on my front and back wall, before I will even consider upgrading any of my electronics.
post #19798 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Q View Post

Alright. I've now lived wit the 4 GIK Tri traps for about a week. What surprised me was that the bass actually got louder, or better said: I have lesser nulls and lesser peaks, making it a lot easier to blend in the REL. This weekend I fiddled again with the REL and I had to lower the crossover to 27Hz and had to lower the gain to about 9 o clock.

....
What REL do you have that you can crossover at 27 Hz. I've had the T-7 and now the R-328 and the crossovers go no lower than 30 Hz.
Edited by RaceTripper - 7/3/13 at 5:28am
post #19799 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceTripper View Post

What REL do you have that you can crossover at 27 Hz. I've had the T-7 and now the R-328 and the crossovers go no lower than 30 Hz.

The Britannia B1. Lowest crossover point is 22Hz

http://www.sumikoaudio.net/rel/prod_b1.htm
post #19800 of 21660
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Q View Post

The Britannia B1. Lowest crossover point is 22Hz

http://www.sumikoaudio.net/rel/prod_b1.htm
NIce. That is a more serious sub than my R-328, although I am happy with what I have. FWIW: I have mine at its lowest setting, 30 Hz. My speakers are rated -3db at 35 Hz.
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