2007 Mitsubishi WD-XX73X and XX831 Owner's Thread - Page 209

Seems to be just the place to get Mitsu advice!
Today, I looked at the WD-57831 and the WD-57732. There is a $700 difference in the two and not a lot of functional difference from what I can tell. A brighter bulb (180 vs 150) and cloth covering on the speakers and a glossy finish. Did I miss anything? What performance gains, if any, will that $700 bring me?
This set is intended to be a primary viewing set, but not my exclusive home theater-only setup as I have that downstairs on a 114" screen with a PJ. I will watch HD content (Dish) and upconverted DVD content but mostly general TV.
I'll spend the extra money if there is a functional difference, but if not, I would rather bank it!
Thank you!

Bank it.

Get yourself an HD-DVD player and a few HD-DVD movies, dinner with a loved one and enjoy stunning PQ on HD-DVD.
My suggestion is to grap Mission Impossible 3 and Batman Begins on HD-DVD and ready to be in awe of the PQ.

Thanks for the info Mars. Let us know what happens if the tech calls you back.
I wonder why they would use a 12V fan as oppossed to a 120V fan?
By the way, how is the fan attached to the chassis, with screws? I wonder if using rubber washers would dampen the sound a bit?

The screen are identical on the 732 and the 831.
a) THis is evidenced by the fact that the parts lists for each have identical screen part number.
b)Further when doing side by side PQ comparisons under controlled conditions its obvious the the PQ is identical.
c)Further, upon close inspection of the screen using eye loup its can be observed that the screen construction is identical
d) further note that Mitsubishi recently changed their website for the 832 from High contrast screen to High contrast picture, further evidence of their admission of identical screen.

Both TV has excellent PQ and are fine TVs. I do not have one complaint in the 6 weeks I have owned mine. There are some differences in the 832 having to do with a additional input, 180 vs 150w lamp, case style, and 832 has fully lighted removed and 2nd remote. Id love a fully lighted remoted. All in all for braggin rights probably worth 3-4 more if you can put up with the cheap glossy plastic look of the case.

Thanks for posting this.
For me, the fan in my PC tower makes more noise than your first wav file. Again, just to me, with my hearing.

The fan in the little (Glade) room atomizers my wife puts around the house before company comes over are far more noisey (to me).

And your 2nd wav file from 9 ft away.... I honestly cannot hear it, at all, not even with the volume on my amplified speakers wide open.

What I think this suggests is that "the noise" is what it is. Many are hearing it, but it is only objectionable to those few with more sensitive hearing than the rest of us. Solving it for those who are most annoyed by it may be difficult.

I do hear mine spin-up from a cold start, but within 10 secs it is completely inaudible to me.

Got one already! Love it too. I can use the money I don't spend on the Diamond toward more HD movies!

Perhaps steer a little of the savings toward having your set ISF calibrated....

Thanks for the post (& the work involved in getting the numbers)

Comparing your settings to those UMR obtained while calibrating mine seems to underscore what Icaillo has been telling us, that someone else's settings are unique to that specific set and of little or no value when trying to set up your own.

Your Blues (both color & tint) ended up about where mine did, but your SM gain settings for GGL/GRL/GBL vary considerably in both directions. The remainder of your PerfectColor/PerfecTint settings are also not valid for my set. We even differ on some of the basic user settings (contrast, brightness, color & tint).

If you can still return the set I would. CC would only allow an exchange since I was outside my 30 days. I don't think that exchanging my Y65 for another would solve the problem and I don't really want to exchange it for anything that CC has to offer so I guess I will have to try to get Mitsubishi to fix the set or buy it back. I would give a 732 a try though as there seem to be less reports of this problem on those models.

I happened to be in HHGreeG the other day and ran into a Mits Rep. giving one of the salesman instruction on tuning a 57732. He spent about 30 minutes answering many of the questions that have arisen on this forum. I suggested that he visit this forum and correct some of the statements I've seen quoted as fact here. I've abbreviated his responses but I'll be happy to go into more detail if requested.

1. He personally owed a 65732 but stated that he was going to sell it and buy by the 65831. In a side by side comparison he says there is a difference in PQ and that it is a superior set. (note HHGreeG does not sell the 831 model) BTW, I am finding there is only about a $500 difference.

2. He stated that there is a different screen than the **732 and it enhances both whites and blacks.

3. He also stated that he recommends hooking the source directly to the TV and running audio out of the TV to the Receiver. It will pass thru Dolby, etc.

5. Mits is not going to be implementing the LED technology but will be introducing Laser driven projectors. These new sets are a year away from Market.

Hope this helps.

WD65731 Help/Tech Support

Hope I am posting this in the right thread but here it goes, I am having problems with my WD65731. This morning when I came down to turn on the tv the timer light turned on and started to flash rapidly and the set never came on.(fan is not running or anything just timer light flashing) It has been on for 3 hours now and set still wont turn on.(timer light still flashing) I unplugged it, tried the reset button and nothing worked. When unplugged and reset and plugged back in the timer light stil flashes like before and unit will not turn on. Turned set off normally last night and there are no programs running that are on a timer. Have unplugged cable box, dvd etc and still nothing.

Called the support number and they told me to do the same things I have been doing reset/unplug etc. has anyone else had this issue if so please post or anyone with some knowledge of this please post or pm me.

Thanks in advance
Tahoen4u

Can you say more about Beyond TV? I would like to get some media pc software, but know little about the options.
Thanks.

UMR certainly said that. He first did a 732 and noted some weakness, then a 831 and said it was very good. Maybe just set to set differences, or whatever. However, out STB has only a fixed output, not passthru. We did a ton of looking at our 831, with test patterns and general source material, especially after UMR's first calibration. We found that setting the STB to 1080i output was the best. ESPN was better setting STB to 720p, but I'm not going to mess with the STB output every time I change channels. And we like movies better than sports on ESPN, so 1080i is it. We are quite pleased with the 1080i to 1080p deinterlacing on the MITS, with decent source. We can see some problems with scrolling of ESPN when the STB is set to 1080i, but the STB would be converting 720p to 1080i, then the mits to 1080p, so no wonder. When we set the stb to 720p, the scrolling artifacts go away on espn.

Peace.

Has UMR calibrated your set? If so, I would like to include your report in the list that is linked at the bottom of my posts.

the tv only has analog audio out. Hopefully you mean the spdif out. Just a hint, to be able to tell if a sales rep knows what he is talking about or lying.....see if his lips are moving.
The screen are identical on the 732 and the 831.
a) THis is evidenced by the fact that the parts lists for each have identical screen part number.
b)Further when doing side by side PQ comparisons under controlled conditions its obvious the the PQ is identical.
c)Further, upon close inspection of the screen using eye loup its can be observed that the screen construction is identical
d) further note that Mitsubishi recently changed their website for the 832 from High contrast screen to High contrast picture, further evidence of their admission of identical screen.

Both TV has excellent PQ and are fine TVs. I do not have one complaint in the 6 weeks I have owned mine. There are some differences in the 832 having to do with a additional input, 180 vs 150w lamp, case style, and 832 has fully lighted removed and 2nd remote. Id love a fully lighted remoted. All in all for braggin rights probably worth 3-4 more if you can put up with the cheap glossy plastic look of the case.
Hope this helps

oh joy. another set of screwed up setting for folks to mess up their TVs. Thank god for factory reset!

So im watching a movie in hd dvd and notice in the white scenes on my 65831 at the bottom left middle this whiteish gray fluttering line going left and right starts happening. Starts at the bottom and ends about 6 inched up

I think its a dvd issue, but after the movie I switch between inputs and I still see it in my direct tv and games

I dont have time to read all the messages, but is this a known issue and can it be fixed?

Thx in advance
-Brian

so when does the smell go away from whatever is burning off?
had a 73831 snce tuesday

also the fan noise on mine is a little too loud.
sounds more lke a buzzing sound and thats annoying

also i'm not handling the hourglass issue well

not known issue. try another dvd and/or dvd player or watch video from cable box to prove that

wadda whinner!

Your problem does not sound familiar.

Make sure your cables are all firmly connected. Try different inputs (e.g., hdmi-2 instead of hdmi-1, component instead of hdmi, etc.) Try different cables, if you can. If you have one, try a different TV. If you and a neighbor have the same cable or satellite service, check your neighbor's TV.

If the problem exists only on the one TV (or you can't check out other TVs,) then take pictures of the problem and post them here.

Even though I had a lot of complaints about the TV before, I am still happy with the purchase. I would still have prefered the WD-65831, but its all good.

I also realized, that about every problem I have ever had from this TV, has been because of the Stupid HDMI cable and STB. TWC 8300HD with HDMI is just bad. With component, the Picture is better (using crappy HDMI cable and great component cables) and no problems what so ever.

Pics are posted in the Home theatre room section. (not dedicated)

This to me confirms that potential for this problem exists on all of the 2007 Mits DLP TV with 1080i sources, not just the Y65 or 731 series TVs. The tearing of the ESPN ticker is a symptom of the same problem that occurs during 1080i football games(any fast motion on interlaced sources).

I really don't understand how people can continue to blame the source material when other displays (Sony, JVC, Samsung) do not display these artifacts during motion on 1080i sources.

I caught some of the ND replay on Universal HD(1080i) this morning and it displays the same artifacts. A good place to look for it is when a Ref is in a shot and the camera pans accross him rapidly. The vertical stripes get torn to pieces during the deinterlacing. If you play the video back it slow motion the stipes are fine. To those that say they do not have problems I will say that at first glance the image looks great during these 1080i football games, it is only under specifc curcumstances(mentioned above) that the problem becomes easily detectable. So before you say that your display does not have this problem, look closely, or try upconverting ESPN HD to 1080i as a test. Remember though, ignorance is bliss, proceed with caution.

I am back on the fence about exchanging this TV, I have until Monday to decide.

I'm beginning to think a lot of folks are becoming a little obsessive-compulsive about some of the issues, much as if you're going out of your way to find something to criticize or bitch about. This begs the question, are any of you able to enjoy just watching a game or a movie anymore without critiquing the most finite details frame by frame? The perfect HDTV does not exist and if it did likely none of us could afford it. I'm utterly thrilled with my 732 and all who have been over to watch a game are unanimous that it's the best they've seen.

Yes I can still enjoy watching the game. It is a nice display, I get your point. But to me there is also another portion of the posters here that have the "LAAA LAAA LAAA I CAN'T HEAR YOUR THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH MY EXPENSIVE TV".

I would like to keep this TV, as otherwise I really like the picture, but I would like to have this problem fixed as it is very distracting during football games as fast motion is what football is all about. Telling me there is nothing wrong, or that I am being anal, does not help collect data on how wide spread this problem is. When we started first seeing signs of the green blob on the Sony thread there were the same voices saying, "mine works stop bitching" too.

And I would not call this a minor issue:


I currently see this on the CBS NFL game(Bears vs Dolphins). I have actually yet to see a 1080i Football game with out the artifacts during motion. Keep in mind they go away if I play it back in slow motion.

I posted this in the home theatre section, but there is no traffic there. WD-65731 (should have bought an 831 though) Only regret: Making the TV up so high. Should have been brought down another foot. But Thats an easy mod later If i still really feel that way.

Custom built cabinet. Great viewing angle on the TV. "Hereos", is being played off my computer. Downloaded from a friend. Looks pretty good for a crappy computer. Scrubs is analog from TWC box being sent out as 1080i.





A sweet floating TV screen.

i'm having issues
rbe
the loud fan noise
hourglass image shape
a white glare like image right in the middle of the
screen on dark or black screen i guess this is the bulb but it's like
a bullseye and hard to not look at.
and
a smell like something is burning off in the tv.

monday will be a week for the tv

try whinnersrus.com.......youll fit in fine

we agree