2007 Mitsubishi WD-XX73X and XX831 Owner's Thread - Page 262

Parasite, I am in the same boat as you. I have had my light engine replaced once and I am having it replaced again this weekend. If this new one fails I am going to see if I can get a refund for the set from Mitsubishi. Does the "lemon law" apply to electronics?

did you get yours on the employee purchase plan? I am really getting ticked off about this. I think there is a serious problem with the light engines on these tv's. I checked the two 831 and one 732s in the store with the service menu test patterns and all of them are showing the effect the oldest the worst and so on. I dare say this is quickly becoming mits's green blob. I knew I sould of got the XBR2
The XBR2 is not suffering the green blob. If I could get a refund or a promise of the new diamond from mits then I will be happy, If not can anyone say class action lawsuit time, because this problem is growing for many people not just myself.

how do you check the test pattern in the service menu?

I have not seen this, but I would look for a deterioration of the lens system. If someone has a light engine swapped for this I would look in the lens of the new one and compare it to the one that failed. It is possible adhesives or something else is flowing into or out of the light path and is causing the optical system to distort the image.

I was not aware that there were "luminance targets."

Where in your software are these targets?

It is not in the software. It is a fairly tricky thing to do.

True, a known issue, but also true that it only affects a very small number of sets compared to the total number of sets sold, about 1 in 20 sets (5%) according to a local Mits servicer. However, it seems to be occurring more often in higher humidity areas. That having been said, I'm in Houston, TX which is pretty much like living in pea soup 7 months out of the year tho I have not had a problem with mine (knock on wood). Of course we run our central air pretty constant from about the 1st of April through Thanksgiving every year.

I know it is tricky. I have probably experimented with these sets more than just about anyone. You referred to targets. What are the targets for what you call "color luminance?" Do you have some way of quantifying what you are adjusting are are you just guessing based on visual observation. There is not an obvious, nor very useful, relation between what the PC controls do and saturation, so what are you using as a reference and methodology for adjusting them. Are you just eyeballing it with source video that you are familiar with?

I am looking at getting the WD-57831 or the WD-Y57 what is the difference?

yd57 is alot like the 57731 -- the 831 is far superior.
If you can hadle the bump, go for the 831, if not- try the 732 (it is at fry's for a rediculously low price!)

5% is high enough for Mits to order a service bulletin but you can bet it won't happen......The downside is that failures will appear as this particular technology matures, ie the particular problems associated with these model sets will become evident as us consumers have them in our homes. Light boxes failing in less than six months, bulbs burning out at far less the rated hours stated, where we the consumer will suffer is when these occur out of warranty.

I'm still on the fence with Mits, they release these DLP models as technology changes every 8-10 months and it seems that these sets aren't as bullet proof as they promise. Granted their CS is better than Sony, Samsung and Panasonic but I am a little leery at this time with the current xx731/2 and xx831 sets. They are at the end of their product cycles and can be had at some great prices but I would like to see what improvements they make in their xx733 sets rolling out over the next month or two. They typically learn what the failure issues are from their service records and I hope they make the necessary improvements in the newer sets.

Bottom line: If you are having any issues, make sure they are documented thoroughly with Mitsubushi Service or Consumer Relations. The consumer relations number you call is in the far east and it has been hit or miss with me whether they properly document any issues. If you are having any intermittent problems that come and go, I'd still make the call as it may be the only way to protect yourself once your set goes out of warranty. They use your phone number as the case file number. Do not be shy about requesting a call from a supervisor, that call will be from MDE in Irvine, CA and not from an offshore call center.

I want to hook up my laptop to my 57732 to play movies/hd games/hd clips/hd movies.
I have a DVI output on my laptop dvi input on the 57732.

Here is the issue. My laptop screen resolution is only 1024x768. Will the TV only be able to produce these resolutions? I hope to get some 1900x1080 (1080p) resolution on my TV.

What is the deal???

You should be able to set any resolution you want for the second display.

Does anyone have any updates from the Dealer show (someone said it was May 1st)?

Obviously, you cannot create a resolution that the PC's video card cannot output.
If XVGA is its maximum resolution, then thats the best you can output.

I think it outputs up to 1600x1200. That would be good enough-- would the TV just upconvert that to 1080p?
I have something called powerstrip that will help fix the overscan.
Has anyone hooked up their tv to their computer before?

let me know if you have.

the final (upconverted) output of the TV has nothing to do with the input resolution. Either it accepts it or it doesnt.
I dont know the exact specs for that model, however, I do know that it accepts a wide ranged on resolutions.
If my memory serves me, I believe they are actually listed on the back panel on TV below the HDMI input connector.

We have had our 831 for about a week and a half. We are really enjoying it but just encountered an audio problem.

We have DirectTV connected to HDMI1 with digital coax out to our AVR so we can opt to not use AVR late at night and just use TV speakers. Generally this works perfectly and we can switch audio from the Input|Audio menu.

Last night after Mr. Ramalama went to bed I wanted to watch Sopranos on HBO with TV speakers - no sound. Sound was fine via amp so had to go that route but Mr. R. was a bit disgruntled as subwoofer is against wall with bed on other side....

Earlier in the week a movie on SHO did the same thing but being a total newbie with this system, I thought I had just done something wrong.

Our Direct TV box is set to Digital On and Dolby Digital and the AVR which gets its sound via digital coax from the TV out told me it was DD not PCM.

Would a second set of audio outs (analog) be the solution?

--Rama

that TV doesnt accept Dolby digital signals.
I am guessing that is where your problem lies. Change the settings on your STB to PCM (if available)

I've been running a pny geforce nvidia 6200 (in a desktop pc) to a Mits WD-65 since last December - the drivers allow me to adjust the horizontal and vertical width of the screen. I am at 1784 by 1004. Looks fine. Your mileage may vary depending upon your video config in your laptop. What is the video card/chipset in your box? Let us know if it works out for you with the powerstrip utility.

I have done full 1080 from my laptop to the TV (65732). No problems whatsoever unless you try to read a web page at that resolution. TINY! My laptop uses a NV 7600Go.

Interesting. It is able to pass them through however.
What remains a mystery is that it only seems to have problems accepting Dolby digital signals from premium services such as HBO and Showtime and does just fine with DD signals from OTA.


So here is another related question:

When a broadcaster or provider states that a show is in 5.1 surround, does that mean Dolby Digital or Prologic 5.1 (digital or analog)?


--R

DD from OTA should be fine. It just doesnt accept DD from HDMI.
I also noticed that sometimes it would accept it and other times it wouldnt. I tried to do some testing, but didnt care enough to follow through with it.
but my uneducated opinion is that Mits was trying to get compliance, but wasnt able to do it in time, so they just said "not supported", even though in some cases it would work.

Hip,

OTA is routed through the STB. Off air antenna feeds back of STB, Directtv provides guide information for locals for OTA. Would not have any program guide information onscreen integrated and would have to go through input selection from ANT to SAT in order to scroll through the network stations since 2 is not OTA, 3 is OTA, 5 and 7 are not OTA, 10 is OTA, 11 is not.... this is due to the fact that the FCC determined that a person must get locals based on a zipcode even if those locals originate 50 miles away and you cannot get OTA from that area due to the topography whereas we can get OTA from a secondary source/zipcode that is in another region about 50 miles the other direction and line of sight. The reason we do this is that the two sets of network feeds are not the same. I am sure that I am not the only person who is sitting on the border of two regions and this is actually covered in the Direct TV users guide on how to set up a different zip code in order to get the OTA on the guide.

Now, I want to first say thanks for the information and ask another question:

If I run a set of analog cables from the STB to an unused audio in on my TV, can I change my STB back to DD so I get surround on my AVR (you may recall that the TV can pass the DD through the coax out just fine). What I want to avoid doing is having to fire up my sound system just to watch HBO especially late at night when other people are sleeping on the other side of the wall from my sub!

edited to ask this:
my new STB (DirectTV HR20 DVR) says to use component not HDMI. Will this also work?

Has anyone put the center speaker on top of the TV on their 65 inch?
If so with what and will it not harm the TV?

Does anyone have the skinny on the new xx733 sets? I googled wd65733, and a got couple of hits.

cleaning did not fix the problem. tv shut down again yesterday.

I purchased a Harmony 1000 and an RF entender, but I can't locate where the IR sensor on my WD-73831 is so I can attach the IR emitter. It seems to be behind the screen, but I can't attach a emitter to the screen itself. Does anyone know where the IR sensor on the screen is?

Yes, it's inside the screen in a point where the mirrors can see it from any angle, hence attachment of the IR emitter is going to mean attaching it to the face of the screen. Certainly not what you wanted to hear, but that's where it is.

I think that's the point. You don't need the IR emitter. Just point the 1000 at the screen. I use the IR emitter on my Harmony 890 to pipe the light to my DVD, which is behind a windowed door.