2007 Mitsubishi WD-XX73X and XX831 Owner's Thread - Page 265

A version 2 is being finalized. It is needed as new cable company boxes will be CC driven ala the TiVo S3. So the must be able to access VOD etc. For now, I'd still like a CC, but don't want last years model if I can help it.

Thanks, but it's not at regular intervals, usually back-to-back or less than 2 minutes apart. Somedays will go up to 10 minutes without dropout.

In 2008 a new version called 'opencable' is supposed to be rolled out. It will probably be more like 2010.

Just returned an OPPO981 DVD player because it was producing major macroblocking enhancement errors on my WD65732.

Any 732/831 owners have a 1080p upconverting/DIVX DVD player driving their MITS that they love and would recommend? Thanks!

Opp 970 has a different chip and does not MACROBLOCK. Try it!

I have a WD-57731 and I have this problem of the Ant-1 and Ant-2 inputs always being displayed in the input menu even though nothing is hooked up to either input. Does anyone know how to remove them from the input menu?

I have a WD-65732 and they can be removed through the NetCommand menu.

Go to Menu -> NetCommand. Select Review. Scroll down to Ant-1 and select it. This should remove the check box. Do the same for Ant-2. Hit Menu twice to exit. Those two should not be in your list anymore.

There is NO WAY to remove them....

I have a PS3 hooked up to my 57732. I'm almost positive you'll want to set it to "Auto" but even if you have it set to 1080p and you're source material is 1080i, the PS3 won't be attempting any internal upscaling of any sort. The 73x series upconverts everything to 1080p so that's not a big worry. I've viewed 1080i and 1080p material with these setting and everything looks amazing. The only thing you need to be aware of is changing your brightenss settings when switching between 1080i/p. When watching 1080p, you'll need to bring down the brightness level about 15 clicks depending on your settings. I use Natural/Low with all the Deep Field type setting to off. In 720p and 1080i, my brightness is around 36. in 1080p, I bring it down to around 22. Although I haven't got a Sony Blu-ray title to use there internal test patterns to calibrate. Hope that helps a little.

Hi,

Can anyone please help me understand the main differences between the 6573X and the 6583X?? (aside from the price)

Your help will be much appreciated, I've spent quite some time in this thread and could not find much about the main differences.

Thanks

have a question. What version HDMI does the mitsubishi 52631 have? 1.1,1.2,1.3?? anyone. thanks.

Hello to all,
I'm looking for a knowledgable answer regarding the color space settings on the PS3. Should it be set to RGB or YCbCr? Why?

Is there any other factors to take into consideration regarding the type of HDTV you have? I have a 57732.

Thanks

Let me know if the problem goes away when you get FIOS.

I'm beginning to think it's the muxing that Comcast does where they put 2+ HD programs and multiple SD programs on one 6MHz channel. That's not enough bandwidth to carry even two full HD 1080i programs, so they're compromising quality in order to get quantity.


I wish we had FIOS here to try.

I channel can only carry 2 HD.....If they are putting analog channels on that same channel.....you be hating life

Is it possible to change the settings on a 57732 to upconvert just regular 480i tv or dvd?

There is no need to change a setting. Feed it 480i and it will upconvert it and de=interlace it to 1080p.

They can't put analog and digital on the same channel, because analog requires the full bandwidth.

I agree a 6MHZ channel can almost (256QAM=38.47 Mbps) carry 2 HD (2 x 19.39 = 38.78 Mbps), but they're putting 2-3 HD plus 1-3 SD on a channel.

In order to do this, they must be using stat muxing, which reduces the bitrate (i.e. loses more info after it's already been compressed with MPEG2). I'm not sure what that's doing to the AC3 audio ES, but I know that the video's usually the clock reference (PCR) for the Program.

These are the ones I can identify based on the channels the cablecard lets me tune to. There are probably more that I can't see because I can't tune to them.

All this talk about adding more HD channels is great. I want them too, but not if they're going to sacrafice quality by turning them all into HD-Lite...

Bwall23...you have some interesting data there. I am certainly not a cable operator, but I didnt think it was feasible to put more than 2 HD channels on 1 physical channel.

Can I inqure as to how you now which data resides on which physical channel?

This only works if you're using a cablecard. Not sure how to get the info if you have a STB.

SIMPLE, BUT TIME CONSUMING WAY
Get your channel lineup on paper (I captured mine from Comcast website and pasted to excel, then sorted by cable channel#).

Tune to each channel with the remote channel up-down, starting with channel 1. Skip over the analog (480i) channels as you're not concerned with those. For some reason, I can tune to channels I'm not subscribed to and get the channel frequency, but of course the Conditional Access shows NOT_SUBSCRIBED and there is no video/audio.

While on each channel, press MENU-2-4-7-0, arrow up-down to hilite Digital Signal Strength and press Enter. Write down the Frequency under Tuner, i.e. 609.0 next to the channel on your lineup paper. Press EXIT on the remote and tune to the next channel. Repeat for all channels.

Now sort your new lineup list by Frequency to find those channels that have the same frequency. Those with the same frequency are on the same channel.

I have tried doing this by going to the channel editor (MENU, CHANNEL), but that is not reliable since it doesn't display the frequency.

ANYONE KNOW AN EASIER WAY?

Hopefully someone can solve this problem. I have a WD-57731. My son called me at work to say he turned the TV on. He has sound , but no picture. This is through an STB via HDMI. So then I told him to press the input button on the remote and switch to regular cable input ( cable directly fed into TV). Same thing. there is sound, but no picture. I confirmed it's not the cable company since another TV works ok. And also it's not the lamp since he along with my wife don't see a lamp light on, and also the on screen dispaly menu is working when you press input, or any other menu option. And also when you press info, the channels display works.
I will not get home till later, so I figured I would ask if anyone might know what the problem could be. I also have a DVD player connected through HDMI. Could it be the HDMI interfaces are locked up and maybe the TV needs to be unplugged?

I have a 57731 also and had a similar problem in the past where I would get sound but no picture and the lamp wouldn't turn on. I got a new bulb out of mitsubishi from it, but the solution was just in unplugging it for a while.

Thanks, I'll give it a shot when I get home.
How did you get a new bulb from Mits?

It works now, just in time for the Yankees / Mets game.

There's a number in the owners manual you can call if you want to replace a bulb. It was pretty simple, they send you a new one (covered under their 1 year warranty) and you exchange your old one when you pick up the new one.

Mitsubishi website press release

So the obvious question is "When?"

Peace,

DM

I would hope anyone who is considering a new MITS DLP is paying attention
to the "blooming" talk. Since some people are are on their 2nd Light Engine
and this keeps coming back, I would think the new models will develop the
same problems.

More info on this thread

Thanks for the link.

Peace,

DM

If you could get the 65831 for 2000 dollars out the door, would you still do it, knowing down the road you would have halo issues and maybe have to deal with warranty work? I assume prices are dropping because of the issues mentioned in this thread, along with the new models coming out. I had a sammy 5063 stolen and am trying to find a replacement set. 65 over 50 is a no brainer. I just want to hook the thing up and be done with it. No hassels. Why is is so hard to find a rptv that doesn't come with problems?