2007 Mitsubishi WD-XX73X and XX831 Owner's Thread - Page 293

Did the cleaning. Some hopefully helpful things.

Check the postion of the chassis assembly before undoing the two B bolts and the loosening the A adjustment bolt. Mine had the turned down edge at the light end even with the plastic return on the TV housing and the block on which the A bolts tighten was even with the metal edge of thee chassis base. Went back in like a champ.

Following the instructions from the service manual and the great guide provided by poodle head (with some helpful hints from ck007) I carefully disassembled the various items. The coating on the lenses was resistant to plain water, so I used what we use in the electronics industry a lot, isopropyl alcohol. Wetted the end of a Q tip and carefully scrubbed a lens. Then using dry Q tip ends dried it. The worst, that one interior lense needed three separate alcohol washes. When I was done all the glass was pristine.

Put it back together, slipped a pen into the blue safety switch to test it before putting the back on. It was aligned well. Put the back on and adjusted the settings. Perfect picture again. No need for a new light engine like the last time.

Thanks to all here.

Jerry,
Did the service manual help a lot?And where did you get it?Reason I ask is that the pics (on here) weren't really clear.And the disassembly was not well enough explained for me to be confident.So,I'd be hesitant to do this unless I had better instructions(not really electronics oriented).Thanks for any help or further thoughts on this!Fred

Glad to see all went well.

The service manual is good for the removal of the chassis which has the lenses mounted. I got it on the link posted by poodlehead, and excerpts from it from a generous member here.

The service manual assumes a level of skill with the removal. For example, there was nothing in the service manual about disconnecting five cables. Easy enough to do, but you have to know that it is to be done. Because Mitsu has no idea about the cleaning procedure. There is no info on breaking down the chassis etc.

The cleaning pictures posted here are not sharp. However if you follow them you will get what you need done.

Some hints from what I did. Taking off the lens assembly is straightforward, if you free the cables from under the fiberglass tape first. Three philips head screws and it is out. Taking off the angled cover is straightforward, three philips head screws, and again take the tape off first.

Then third step of taking out the tube is straightforward. Three small philips head screws. I marked the position of one of the screws on both the flange and the housing before I disassembled. Just in case there was an alignment issue. The flange fits tightly, and since both parts are hard anodized, it seems to stick. Be sure to remove it without tipping. Same goes for the reassembly. There is no index so you must be sure the screw hole in the flange is lined up with the threaded hole in the body.

Nothing is extremely complicated about the cleaning. I made sure to take my time and think ahead. It took me about two hours end to end to do the cleaning. Mostly because I was being very careful not to muck up anything.

Were I to do it again, it would probably take an hour from removing the first screw on the back of the TV to putting that last screw back in place.

Thanks,Jerry
I printed the pictures from the pdf and now it makes sense.Would you proceed without the service manual?I clean camera lenses all the time(and sensors inside the camera bodies)so that would be easy.

I'm about at my wits end with GE(HHGregg's General Electric-extended warranty)-been 3 months waiting for a LE to arrive from Mits..........GE Assurant Solutions sux!!!).They tell me that the contract specifies no timetable for repairs(which I doubt is legal).Arrrrggg.

So I may just try the cleaning.

Thanks,Fred

Looked as the camera had a 'dirty' lens.

I would strongly suggest having a much cleaner work station that what was used in those photos.

Pictures were taken with my 7-year old pda camera which is light and focus challenged. This was not done as a DIY guide but an info submission to Mit's who would already be familiar with the item in question. I released this info because a out of warranty light engine is $$$$ and Mit's has no other official solution. And at least once a month I do tidy up my work bench Anyone who would like to make better pix and tutorial guide is free to do so now that you at least know what to problem is.

I just ordered our first "free" replacement lamp for our 57831 under our 4-year extended service plan - one more free lamp replacement during the next 26-months under the extended service plan. After 22-months of ownership, we had 2 warranty repairs, and 1 warranty replacement lamp. Overall, I am extremely happy we decided to purchase the premium extended service plan on this set. Although we're not unhappy with this set, the ownership experience has been less than expected. We loved our 5-year old Mits Diamond CRT-RPTV (a perfect ownership experience)...wish I didn't have to give it away when we moved earlier this year.

I have a quick and hopefully easy question for y'all:

I'm going on my 2nd year as a very happy 831 owner (although on our 2nd lamp, but I digress) and we are finally finishing out our first HT system. We will have our Onkyo 876 here this Friday and it got me to thinking...With the Onkyo being HDMI 1.3 and the Mits not being 1.3, should I be concerned about any potential lip0sync issues or the like?

In other words, is there anything I/we are missing w/ the TV not being 1.3 (but the rest of the HT is *PS3, AVR, etc*). TIA.

I have a 731 hooked up to a PS3 and Onkyo 805, you have nothing to worry about.

Anyone know of a good/reliable source for a replacement lamp for a 65831? I'm getting the runaround from my extended warranty (NSI) and need to pick up a lamp on my own in order to ensure we have something to hook the Wii up to on Christmas Day.

There's a listing on fleebay from River Valley Electronics which has a very high Seller rating. Has anyone done business with them???

I assume this is the correct part number: 915P049020

That is the correct number. I just purchased one from Pureland Supply http://www.purelandsupply.com/Genera...rch=915P049020 and had it the next day (with overnight charges).

$184 is a very high price for just the lamp. I have seen the whole assembly for less.

I went ahead and ordered the lamp from RiverValley off of eBay. $118 with a 6 month warranty and then another $30 for UPS 2nd day Air and insurance.

I completed the lens cleaning as suggested by PoodleHead and can confirm that this IS the issue that surrounds the halo problem. The color depth and picture clarity/quality are back and that annoying white wash look that we all second guess is gone. If you have read the last couple of pages in this thread, you already knew that. I am on my second light engine and do have the extended but am not convinced that anything has been done to correct the problem with the engines. My theory is that if our issue is related to a new part burn in, there should be a time when the burn in is complete, we can fix the issue and be done with it. I'll report back in 3-6 months and let you know. If the fix does not stick, I promise you all that I will be beating on my extended until they replace my TV.

The reason I am posting is to let any of you wannabe TV repair people know that: This is not a terribly difficult undertaking!! I spent two weeks freaking out prior to diving in and had an anxiety attack once I saw the guts of my set spread out before me. Today, I'm laughing about it.

The entire assembly in question is attached to a steel tray (think TV tray) that slides out of two molded groves. After removing two screws, loosening two more and disconnecting the leads it simply slides out. The service manual gives no help on what leads need to be disconnected. Use some common sense and you'll figure it out. All of the leads are different in size or connection type so figuring out what went where on re-assembly is not an issue. Honestly, the most difficult thing for me was remembering how many leads I had disconnected. I almost booted up with one disconnected (not sure how bad that would have been) but caught it on the fifth re-inspection of my work. I would suggest marking them with a piece of tape and you should be fine.

The PDF that PoodleHead provides is more than adequate for disassembling the light block. I would add two things, the screws attaching the lens itself where fixed with a very hard epoxy as a lock tight. When I broke the seal on them it sounded like glass cracking!! Scared the Crap out of me!! The second is the fact that the dust cover that PoodleHead mentions is cloth tape sealed. I would strongly suggest that you keep the tape in good shape so you can replace it on re-assembly. Recalibrating the screen was not needed in my case. Once I entered the service menu and hit FF it all looked square. I simply tightened everything up and that was that.

The lens haze in question was very light in my case. So light that I was certain that it would not make a big difference, I was wrong. It was also not very easy to remove. The vast majority of the time I spent on this project was dedicated to the cleaning of the lens. I would also state that IMO it is not dust. It seams to be a vapor burn off and definitely a manufacture defect.

All in all, I wouldn't say that it was difficult to do and I'm very happy I did it. Good luck to all that try and thanks to everyone here for the information.

Chris

Chris,
A couple of questions on your disassembly:

You said: "The entire assembly in question is attached to a steel tray (think TV tray) that slides out of two molded groves. After removing two screws, loosening two more and disconnecting the leads it simply slides out".The 2 screws to be loosened are the "A" bolts aka the "adjust" screws....correct?My directions say to loosen only one to maintain the alignment.Is this feasable so as to maintain alignment?

Secondly you said: "I would add two things, the screws attaching the lens itself were fixed with a very hard epoxy as a lock-tight. When I broke the seal on them it sounded like glass cracking!! Scared the Crap out of me!!".........are you referring to the last piece you remove to access and clean the lens?

Thanks for the help! Fred

Yes to both of your questions and I had to loosen both of the adjustment screws to get mine out. Even with both loosened the alignment was almost automatic. With the groves it really seemed to align itself. Just be carful, take your time and pay attention. You will be shocked by how much better it looks.
Good Luck,
Chris

Yes, on a 57831 with cablecard. Was wondering the same thing myself - Anyone else?

Thanks,Chris.....and to all the others who have explained this procedure.Too bad MITSUBISHI and the technicians can't be doing this!Typical.

bwall23; Now we are up to two. Amazing how many have this set and don't use TVGOS.

This probably won't apply, but is your host channel analog or digital?
Have you tried it w/o the CC?
Have you tried it with OTA only?

Make that three...I have been an OTA fanatic for years and use TVGOS regularly with my Sony HD DVR. I also setup TVGOS (OTA) on my 831 but, to be honest, I stopped using OTA once I got FiOS. The FiOS TV picture is as good as OTA so I went months without checking TVGOS. Anyway, I slapped in a CC the other day (left over from trying TiVo HD back in August) and called Verizon to pair the device, but I haven't had time to check TVGOS. I should finally get some downtime later this week.

Golly, we are on a roll.
BTW, I have the 250 also. Mits stuck their hand into the TVGOS setup and eliminated the 1st two welcome/setup screens. This makes it worse for me since I want to use a Canadian 'Postal Code' and I found out Mits isn't sold in Canada (lucky for them I guess), so there is only a 'Zip Code' entry.

According to Macrovision support (yes, I have actually receved replys from their web site).
Responses from two different CSR's;

The last part of the 1st response is regarding loosing partial data on various days.

Had a email contact with Mits. Don't think they are being straight with me about this TVGOS issue...see below.

Thank you for contacting Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America, Inc. We are pleased to be able to assist our customers via our website. Here is the information that you have requested:



Looking up our records that model number WD-Y65 should have guide version 08.01.71. This version is capable of using digital host stations. You can confirm the version number on the first page of diagnostics.



Regards



MDEA




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 5:25 AM
To: MDEA Service
Subject: attn:CR Workgroup..
Importance: High



Hello. I spent just about an hour on the phone last night with an agent in Irvine, Linda, who, although very nice and new, did not have an answer for many of my questions. I have a Mits WD-Y65 television, and am concerned that the TV Guide On Screen feature will no longer work after the digital transition. On page 3 of the attached pdf, it states that "Mitsubishi models V26-V34 are unable to receive the TVGOS data via digital transmission." Currently, my television reception is with an antenna. I have a V33Y chassis. SN#109882. Will there be a fix for this coming from Mitsubishi via a software or hardware upgrade? Thanks.

Host channel is analog. Comcast Digital Cable, but channel in the 90's is analog PBS broadcasting guide info.

Using CC with Comcast and haven't tried it without the CC or using my OTA antenna.

I'm pretty sure our sets will be able to utilize digital TVGOS (ATSC Slicing) being broadcat by CBS based on the TVGOS base firmware version and the fact we can enable ATSC Slicing. I have been following these two threads, but haven't yet tried to force my set to use a digital channel for TVGOS.
I also gathered a large list of TVGOS codes:

here is the last reply I received from Macrovision:

See attached regarding the functionality of different TVGOS software...

 

Version_Differences.zip 5.0830078125k . file

I havn't had time to read every post for mitsubishi tv's on this forum but I have run into some problems with my Panasonic 35 bluray player. I have it hooked up via hdmi to the tv but it is dropping out the video during movies. Sometimes it runs fine and others it is very frustrating. What I want to know is any one else experiencing issues similar to this on their Mitsu tv's.
Thanks