2007 Mitsubishi WD-XX73X and XX831 Owner's Thread - Page 301

Well,I could not have done it without the help of many posters(HT Nut,Freshmeat36,poodlehead,CK007,and others).The more info we share,the more people will do this!

So far... I noticed in addition to the standard Philips screwdriver necessary, I needed an eyeglass Philips screwdriver and a 5/16" nut driver. I'm glad I took a lot of pictures. Also, the screws that attached the lens assembly to the optical block were soldered in place. Hehe--so much for my warranty.

There is really no reason a Mitsu repairman would even look at the lens assembly as they seem to know absolutely nothing about this claening procedure.They are just "tuned in" to replacing light engines.So I doubt your warranty is in jeopardy.The extended warranty people replaced my TV rather than even do a light engine!

How did it turn out?

Much better. I think I may have left a smudge somewhere as I see a dark, almost watery spot on my left screen. I can fix that later. However, it looks really, really good--possibly better than when I first pulled it out of the box. I had to check my settings as I thought it was on "brilliant" mode as everything was so vivid. I look forward to properly calibrating it, once I get a decent deal on an Eye-one colorimeter.

well i have been subscribed to this thread for 2 years and get email alerts. I read them on occasion and thus far besides bulb replacement my unit has been fine. But i keep reading the great results in cleaning the liht engine that i am thinking of doing it myself. I use to have a pioneer rear projection and would clean the lenses once a year with amazing results.

Here is the problem. Yes I am fat and lazy I really dont want to re read this thread. If any of you are willing to email me any pics or pdfs I would be for ever greatfull.

Thanks for helping a lazy bum BTW its a 57831


Chuck

cmeun@optonline.net

What is needed are pics of the process between photo #3 and photo #4. In photo #3, I see two screws that appear to be losened.

Also notice the dust build up on the outer edges of the blades of the intake fan.

Yes,the 2 screws are loose(There are 4 total) which will to allow the lens assembly to be removed.After that,follow poodleheads' photos in his pdf (post 8685,this thread,pg.290) to access the lens to be cleaned.His 4th photo titled: "The interior lens is what needs cleaned" is the reverse view of mine with the loose screws.Its' pretty simple from there on out.

This will be my LAST post in the mits 65831 forum.
I am finally going to rid myself of this tv by selling it. Hopefully within the next few days it should be a done deal. I used to be in awe with it and couldnt believe the picture I was staring at. Now, 2 bulbs and 6,000 hours later I cant wait to see it go!! I never had the fan issue or the temp/shutdown issue others have had. The tv is not a lemon but rather a victim of poor quality and build. For some reason the blooming is like a disease...You can contain it for a while by cleaning but eventually it comes back with a vengence. And by eventually I am talking about 6 god damn months!

Then theres the fear of checking the hours after each 3,000 hr period and wondering when the damn bulb will go...It makes me want to open the bay window and toss the tv out just to enjoy watching it crash to the ground!
Ive been told to give it a chance and try to live with it...That is definately something I can no longer do. I will never, yes NEVER, purchase a mits again. Customer service sucks and their product sucks!
This is one LO$$ I can care less about. My wife even agrees! I just hope it sells soon because if I have to keep staring at it every night I just may end up putting it outside and putting a sign on it that says "Take me, im free"!!!!!

Good luck everyone, see you all at the electronics store soon while your buying dvd's or cd's you'll see me in the sony section purchasing a spanking new LED Xbr8, and I dont care if their prices are the most inflated...atleest I can talk to level II experts and own something that will kick all other brands butts............

Peace!

I am not clear on how upscaling and/or deinterlacing happens in my set up. I'm looking to learn which devices in my set up would be better at each function (if there is a noticeable difference). Maybe someone with the same or similar enough components, and knows this stuff ;o), could point me in the right direction. Note, I do not have an issue with my PQ, but if I have an inferior component's processor doing a job that could be done better by another device, I'd like to make a change.

My equipment:
WD-73734
Panasonic BD55
Comcast/Motorola HD DVR DCH-3416
Denon 1909*
* What prompted the question is that I may buy a Denon 3808 today. I understand the 1909 and 3808 use the same Farajouda video processing chip, which I hear is inferior to the Reon Realta chip in some other AVR's. I am only looking at the 3808, so I need to find out if the two video conversions are done better than the 1909 (or somewhat equivalent to a Reon chip) by either the: WD-73734, BD55 or DCH-3416?

A secondary question is how to set my settings to accomplish the best mix of video quality for my set up. But for now, getting some of you knowledgable folk to tell me: "Don't worry about the AVR's video conversion ability. Your other devices do 'x' and 'y' better." (If it is true).

I'd appreciate if anyone has specific knowledge, because I have heard general statements like: " Most TV's and BD players convert 'x' and /or 'y' better". Since I am considering spend a big chunk of money today, I'd much prefer specifics, if anyone knows that info. If not, I will take the general answer: "The WD-73734 and/or BD55 have excellent upscaling and deinterlacing abilities, usually better than most AVR's." (if true ;o)

Thanks in advance from this nervous buyer.

Edit: I forgot to mention that the BD55 and Motorolabox are connected to the 1909 via HDMI, then HDMI goes from 1909 to WD-73734.

I have a wd57731 with the same symptoms. I see it in the last Rambo movie where he is in the boat under moonlight. Reflections, shadows on skin don't even look natural. Did you find out what is ailing your tv?

Hey guys

My dad has the mitsubishi wd 73831 and it appears he has no picture. He can still hear sound through his DirecTV dvr...but no picture. I tried hitting the MENU button but nothing comes up. Same thing when I put my SD card in...nothing shows up. I tried the System reset button and still nothing. What usually happens is I turn the POWER ON, the light stays green for 20 seconds and then the timer light either flashes green or the Lamp light turns RED. Any idea?

is the lamp new? best guess is if its the original it needs to be replaced

Replaced in July 2007 (brand new TV at the time since their last Mitsu died)

I have a wd57731 and it erases color and perfectcolor settings every other time I turn off the tv. Has anyone encountered this problem?

My money says you need a new bulb. Check E-bay and replace the bulb for around $100. No need to replace the entire housing ($250?) by purchasing from Mits.

Well folks ...... I had my light engine replaced under the extended warranty/recall for my 73831 on Saturday.
They actually replaced the entire LE-Lens-Fan-etc. assembly.
The set looks great now (no more flashing gradient with the horrible purple haze/rain Jimmy Hendrix/the TV formerly known as Prince, love affair going on in it's guts).
This is my first LE replacement, and I hope it doesn't go south again.
I'm really tempted to see if I can sell this guy real quick, and go with a Sony laser lamp FP system.

I'm not real trusting of this Mits 'stuff' anymore ........ :-(

I agree that the days of buying a TV and plugging it in and watching just 3 channels for 10 years without ever doing a repair are over.

But I also agree that we are enjoying AND demanding far more in both picture quality and content choices.

So the price we pay is purchasing our hardware more often and then repairing and\\or tweaking that hardware during its life cycle.

Having said that, it is disturbing to hear that many folks are having issues with their MIts DLP's. I guess I have been very fortunate. I'm on my 3rd Mits big screen during the HD era. None of my sets have required a single visit to my home by a technician. (Although I did replace my own IC chip in my previous RPTV.....something I wouldn't expect most owners to be willing to do)

My current set is a 65732. I purchased it the very first moment I saw it at a home theatre store in Houston. I believe it was about 30 months ago. I put my second replacement bulb in last night. At 5400 hours, I am getting about 2700 hours per bulb. (math genius?) I don't know if that is good or bad....but since the 1st bulb was free and this last one was ~200.00 with shipping......I'm pleased with the total cost of ownership for a set that still has, what I consider, a stunning picture.

I'm only happy I have never been unfortunate enough to be in a jam and not be taken care of properly by any customer service department. THAT would be infuriating for anyone.

Cheers

I own the 65731 and also have to say that I am generally pleased with it's performance. In almost three years of ownership the only problem I've ever had was with the over temp sensor, and one quick warranty visit fixed that.

Which brings me to the reason for my post. After 6,500 hrs of service I had my first lamp replacement this week (extended warranty).

While I had the tech at my house I used the opportunity to play twenty questions and try and get some kind of feel for how long I should expect the typical lamp to last. He told me the documentation they have from the factory indicates that a bulb should last about 3,000 hrs, but his personal experience is that the normal user will get about 4,000, maybe a little more.

Much depends on common sense and how you use the set. If you keep it in "torch" mode, with the brightness and contrast cranked up, expect the bulb to wear quicker. If you have the set well calibrated with the contrast and brightness where they should be, expect the bulb to last longer.

The way I look at it, if I get at least 3,000-4,000 hrs on each bulb I'll be happy. After-all, If you buy a DLP you know that the lamps are consumables and will need to be eventually replaced. If I didn't want to deal with the lamps I could have dropped more cash at the time of purchase and picked up a plasma or lcd.

But, I figure a new lamp every couple of years is the cost of doing business with what I consider to be an excellent set.

Like you guys, I biught my 73734 about 14 months ago. At the one year point I checked and had 1,050 hours. I guess I'll get two to three more years on the original bulb at that rate (fellow Mensa math genius ;o). I too dropped brightness down one step from the highest setting from day 1.

I am trying to trouble shoot a Mitsubishi DLP #WD-62927. The color seems way off and bleeding together is how I would describe it. Maybe even blotchy. Does this sound like something that a simple bulb replacement would take care of? Or am I in need of a professional repair?
Chris

No to just a lamp replacement.
Can you post a pic?

Yes. I've seen this occasionally if you turn off the set completely meaning the equivalent of unplugging it from the wall or turning it completely off at a surge protector, etc. Changing around your inputs will also cause it.

I'm having problems with my 2+ year old Mitsubishi. Rather than try to explain it, I've attached 'good' and 'bad' pictures. This problem appears to be temperature related. If the room temp is around 70°F it will have good color for hours. If the room temp is in the upper 70's the problem appears within half an hour.

I asked this question on another site, and was told it appears to be a failing color wheel. At his suggestion I did notice a rumbling noise was louder when the color went bad. When the set is first turned on there is a low pitched rumbling sound that is barely audible if I am standing directly in front of the set and the sound is muted. At the time the color goes bad the rumble is clearly audible across the room if the sound is muted. The gentleman expressed surprise that the color wheel was not a replaceable item.

Does anyone have any information on this?

Thanks,

Bill

At the request of my wife, I completed a second lens cleaning this weekend. Yes I said my wife!! The first one was such a huge difference that she now has the eye. (As a small tear rolls down my cheek.)

The second one went as well and was a snap having done it once before. About fifteen min to disassemble, fifteen min cleaning the lens, dusting the entire inside of the chassis, fan, bulb housing screen and anything else if could think of. All said and done, it took about 45 min with a lot of time cleaning and getting the over scan as close as possible. Once again, the picture is fantastic and without the screen door effect and white haze headache. For me, the timing is turning out to be around six months before I start to see anything I don't like about my picture.

As I was contemplating the fact that I will most likely be doing this again in the next six months, it dawned on me that no one has really made a statement on where this crap is coming from. More importantly, no one has suggested a solution. Does anyone know for sure what this stuff is? If we could figure that out we may be able to devise a way to stop it. Some say its dust, some say it's a chemical burn off; does anyone have any good evidence of what it is? Better yet, does anyone have any thoughts on its source?

My quick observation is that the lens assembly is not sealed. It's supposed to be but its not. More specifically, the duel lens assembly that is removed with a jeweler's screwdriver is not sealed. My guess is that in the heating and cooling of that chamber there is a vacuum created. The vacuum pulls the particles in and ultimately become the haze on the lens. For that chamber to be sealed you would at least need some type of O ring in place when re-installing it. Anyone else have any thoughts on it?

If there's one thing I know about this site, it's the fact that there are some smart MO FO's running around these boards. As fun as it is to play TV repair guy, I would get a whole lot more satisfaction solving the issue. Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks,
Chris

PlainBill; Sorry, I never saw your post. I would say the color wheel stopped turning altogether. never saw that issue before.
Congratulations. One in a thousand (or more).

Since I haven't done this yet and from the very limited pics I have seen, there is no way I could even guess where the problem is. If I had some detailed shots, including closeups of the assembly, I might be able to come up with an answer.

I did a search, and scoured the manual, but couldn't find this but how do you check the lamp life (hours of use) on a Mitsubishi 73831?

The hours on the TV is shown in the service menu. I got this info here.
It is running hours on the TV, like the main odometer on your car. It is not resettable, so when you replace a bulb write the hours down in you manual.

On your remote, press 'Menu', then press the numbers 2 4 7 0

The hours on WD-73734 were displayed in the lower left portion of the screen. Other models may display this number in a different area. It is just a number all by itself with no description or notation by it (on mine). a few other numbers are also displayed. I don't recall what they are.

Thanks so much!

Just be sure you don't hit enter as soon as you see that overlap screen or you will "Initialize" your TV wiping pout everything (except calibration data)!! As soon as that screen appears, I imediately move the highlight away from the 1st line.

BTW, this is the total on hours of the TV, not the lamp time. If the lamp is replaced, this count remains and continues to count up.