2007 Mitsubishi WD-XX73X and XX831 Owner's Thread - Page 310

1. Yes, the lamp is probably bad.
2. Yes,
3. Have you read through this?;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1310024

1&2 - that's what I figured, but it's good to have a second opinion
3 - I did look through that thread, but none of the part sites listed there had the ballast. I did find the part# however, #938P069010. Couldn't find anyone that had it though.

Then it would have to come directly through Mits parts. See who services your set locally and ask if they would order the part for you;
http://direct.where2getit.com/cwc/ap...er#?mid=174138

Hi,
I think I have WD-60735. After the digital channels scan only encrypted QAM showing up as 46-8, 46-12, etc. I couldn't find the known unencrypted on 46.3 as before. I accidentally found 46.3 by entering 46 but the message says 46 renamed 0. Then I press channel up button to see the other unencryted qam. But I couldn't go to any of them directly as before. I appreciate if someone can help.

Thanks so much.

What cable TV service do you have? Do you have another tuner to compare the results?
That was a problem with certain CATV systems and certain tuners. Talk to your MSO.

Thanks VideoBruce,

I other two TVs in the house are working fine w/ QAM scanning and direct tuning to 46.5. As mentioned, this WD-60735 was working correctly several months ago. Only changes might be pressing the reset buttons/sequence in the front after changing the bulb.

Time Warner is MSO.

Thanks so much.

VideoBruce wrote >>

What cable TV service do you have? Do you have another tuner to compare the results?
That was a problem with certain CATV systems and certain tuners. Talk to your MSO.

<<

They might be playing with their PSIP data trying to get the virtual channel numbers to line up with the OTA virtual numbers for the lamo's who couldn't get use to a different channel number.
I assume you are aware of the difference between 'virtual' and 'physical' channel numbers and this game that was setup by the NAB?

Go to your local reception sub forum and find out what the physical 'in the clear' channel numbers are if you don't already know for your local OTA stations. Then enter the whole number in and see what happens.

Thanks VideoBruce,

As I mentioned, 46.3 is still working on my other two TVs and used to work months ago on this WD-60735.

KHON HD 46.3 FOX is channel 1003 on the STB.

I don't have a spectrum analyzer to inspect RF.

Thanks so much.

I want to put this up for any owners of this TV who stumble upon this thread. You owe it to yourself to do the lens cleaning procedure outlined by videobruce. I did it a few weeks ago on my 57732 and I still can not get over how much the picture improved. It is astonishing.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1148792

My WD-65831 seems to be in temp angst. It is well past the 3 year warrenty on the unit - so I would have to pay a technitian or do it myself. I would prefer to do it myself if an easy fix. However, I have read no guidelines on doing this. Some of the things I read indicate this is could simple be a reconnecting of the cables - or sensor replacement.

Have you looked through the 'sticky' on repair?

Yes - no joy - in fact no 'free' web sites have the WD-65831 manual. Maybe you can find one but the list on stickies does not show. The question is this a lamb replacement or temp sensor job. I feel it is likely temp sensor - TV working atm - BUT I am worried it will offline anytime. If temp sensor, how do I repair. If lamp - I can deal with that. And any idea of the number of hours a lamp can handle?

Kinda hard to diagnose a problem when you haven't supplied any details.

I bought this WD-65831 In Sept 2006. 1st lamp lasted 2 years, next lamp lasted two years. Had a lamp fail in December 2010, replaced it with one I bought from Amazon.com, 5 weeks later I was not firing up and I was getting code 66. Amazon let me return the lamp, I bought another from Amazon and it worked great until tonight. Turn the set on and it runs for two or three minutes and it shuts off with a solid red lamp light, Code 34. Try again, same deal 2-3 minutes of good picture and shuts off, Code 34.

So do I pull the board out, fire up the Hakko soldering station and start replacing caps? Anybody got a link to that write-up?

This thread is very valuable but difficult to navigate.

Thanks in advance!

Tom

I tried the format/input reset, set it to low power, unplugged it for 10 minutes, same story. GREAT picture for 1-2 minutes and off. Code 34. After reading more on this subject I'm thinking it also could be the ballast? Do these 831 series DLP's have the same cap problem the 725 series has shown?

What do you guys think? The wife's TV is down and I'm ready to start throwing parts at it.

Thanks again (in advance)

1. How many viewing hours for each lamp change? Stating years is meaningless. That's in the SM. You have kept track haven't you??
2. Have you looked through the 'sticky' on repair?
3. The "caps" problem was from many years ago, not now.
4. I'm kinda doubtful it's the ballast since the lamp fired up ok. I also kinda doubt it is the thermal sensor, since those were a problem before you model year, but it could be.

Biggest question is the number of hours between lamp changes and the current total.

My 57831 shut down with the red "lamp" light on. I turned it off and waited a bit then turned it back on and it come on ok with a good picture, a couple minutes later, it shut down with the red "lamp" light on again. I changed the lamp and so far so good. That was 4 days ago and it is still going strong.

This is the first time it has shut off with the red "lamp" light. The picture showed no noticeable darkening like it usually does when the lamp needs replacing and the old lamp still worked when the set was first turned on.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it was actually a bulb problem and not something more sinister.

Lamps can and will go at any time. Usually at startup when there is the greatest 'strain' on the lamp. How many hours for each lamp?

Thanks Bruce, The original lamp lasted 3600 hours, my 1st replacement (OEM) lasted 2900 hours, my 2nd replacement (OEM) lasted 3050 hours.

In December I ordered a replacement lamp from Amazon.com. I installed it and it lasted about 210 hours and went out. It didn't pop like the previous lamps and it didn't look bad but it wouldn't light and I was getting the code 66.

I ordered another lamp (Next Day Air) and Amazon.com agreed to accept a return on the previous lamp. Usually after the return period they want you to deal with the manufacture for warranty replacement but they took good care of me.

160 hours later here we are. I'd LOVE to drop another lamp in this thing and move on but I'd hate to bother the manufacture and or Amazon.com again if the problem is my TV. Maybe I'll contact the dealer and get a warranty replacement.

Your thoughts?

Thanks Again!

The lamp had about 2600 hrs and it didn't go out, it will come on when the set is first turned on. It just shuts the set down after a couple minutes with the red "lamp" light.

Maybe it is beginning to have too much resistance or maybe too little?

Answers to my previous post??

I thought the number of on-off cycles was the main factor in lamp life? I suppose total hours will somewhat reflect that.

I just changed my lamp for the first time on Feb 21, 5895 hours. Was an Osram.

After the change, wow alot brighter, but now I need to do the lens cleaning because the halo-ing is now really obvious and obnoxious looking. Just waiting for a friend to help me move the tv since my stand doesn't have wheels and the tv is too big to move yourself.

My WD-65831 seems to be in temp angst. It is well past the 3 year warranty on the unit - so I would have to pay a technician or do it myself. I would prefer to do it myself if an easy fix. However, I have read no guidelines on doing this. Some of the things I read indicate this is could simple be a reconnecting of the cables - or sensor replacement.

Or - Upon reset the TV works for awhile. But eventually it turns off and I have a steady red light. Wait some time and I the TV will turn on again and work! Yea - if the lamp was 'dead' would it NOT do this? The image quality is fine. I hear no crackling or electrical popping noise to indicate the Ballest has failed. I suspect it it simple the temperature sensors (after read a Mits note on the subject) - but need to know how to repair myself - Any guidance appreciated.

That lens cleaning write up is fantastic. Doesn't take long at all and I cant believe how much better it looked after the procedure. 100% improvement.

I ordered another lamp from Amazon next day air, I'm keeping my fingers crossed....

What would cause the tv to shut down with the red "lamp" light then be able to turn it on again and it work fine for a couple minutes then shut down with the "lamp" light again?

A factor.
How much?? Mits is now selling many/most lamps for $100.

Tom Thomas; Thermal problem. It cooled off enough to work. Defective component, cold solder joint, bad connection.

Amazon.com took care of me again. Net cost for the new lamp "Zero" for a warranty replacement. I hope that takes care of it.

Thanks Bruce for all the great help you have been in this thread!

Well, I replaced a lamp with 160 total hours that was doing that exact same thing. Fired right up and has ran non-stop for the past 4 hours.

9650 Hours of beautiful picture with nothing but a couple lamp replacements and a lens cleaning.

All is well again, Thanks Guys!

I picked this up used and it seems to be working great, got it for $300.00 with a new stand. This thing is far heavier than my same year non-diamod version, any reason for that? The non-daimond is a 65" so not that much smaller (wd-y657 Circuit City version). Any suggestions for set-up/calibration, I would be most grateful, thanks.

John M.