2007 Mitsubishi WD-XX73X and XX831 Owner's Thread - Page 311

Welcome to the thread John! There is an older thread which has a lot of good calibration/setting info that really helped me get a great picture from my set. Click on the link below.

Official 2007 Mitsubishi WD-xx73X/WD-xx831 Settings & Tweaks Thread

I recently moved my WD-65732 to another room and hooked it up to a PS3 Slim via HDMI. Is there a NetCommand setting I can use that will allow the TV to turn on and turn off the PS3 when the TV powers on or off? My WD-82838 does this with the PS3.

My WD 57733 went off one day after having been off for a few hours and attempting to turn it back on and use it. I am pretty sure I narrowed it down to one of the 2 temp sensors being the issue. I found the one that runs to the back of the lamp housing near the fan that sits flat with the port up front. I am not sure where the other temp sensor is and I need to try to adjust it perhaps? I get a code 39, tv comes on sound and picture are fine but goes off after about 1-2 minutes and the yellow/amber light will light up and stay lit. I've cleaned the system out, taken the entire lamp/ballast housing apart and cleaned all 3 fans with a paint brush to remove all dust, vacuumed it out really well as well and still the same problem. I am currently unemployed so I can't afford a tech or service call and since my tv was manufactured in February of 2008 it is out of both the 1 year and possible 3 year warranty. Any help would be greatly appreciated

You can't adjust any sensor, they have to be replaced. It is also possible that the connector is bad which the lamp sensor is covered under warranty (or at least was).

I'd check the connectors first.

Do you have the SM (first step) and have you looked through the 'sticky' at the top of the sub forum?

Yes sir, I do have the service manual but it isn't clear about the temp sensors. I should have worded it better by adjust I meant either tighten the connection or clean the connection or if necessary solder whatever might need to be soldered but I wasn't sure where to start. I rerouted the thermal sensor that sits under the top cover of the entire lamp/ballast/fan housing assembly and has the huge washer and screw holding it in place and still the same effect. Is the other sensor somewhere that I can reroute or check the connections to? I think it may be the one causing the problem. Thanks again for your assistance.

I forgot to add that I did indeed read the sticky at the top of the forum but I didn't see any mention of Mits thermal sensor repairs. I will check it again to make sure I didn't miss it as I stumbled on to the site around 2 Am and wasn't very focused

Code 39 is high DMD temperature, not the lamp according to the 732 manual. That sensor on on the front of the Light Engine IIRC.

Take a look at the lens cleaning thread for pics.

A neighbor just gave me a 60 inch Mitsu DLP. It has the power cord cut at the chassis so I pulled the light engine. I am going to try swapping the thermal sensor but if that doesn't work can i switch out ballasts or should I try to swap the entire light engine and see if that resolves the issue? I know they aren't identical but the connections seem to be the same. or should I try to swap my chassis and the light engine from the other into the 60 inch? The screen seems to be ok but I am not completely sure and it didn't have a lamp in it.

Well I put the light engine from the 60 inch into mine and still getting the same issue. I had to use the thermal sensor from the 60 inch in my 57 inch as the plug was different and wouldn't have worked with the one I had. So either that thermal sensor is bad or the DMD or ballast are bad perhaps? I was thinking of swapping the ballasts but they are significantly different and may not work. Any guidance or ideas would be greatly appreciated

I wouldn't even suggest swapping parts from another model. What was wrong with this and why was the cord cut?
First off, what was the series # of this 60"? Is this another 733?
Even models of the same series could have slightly different versions of their parts.

Well it didn't work anyway. The light engine let the system power on but it made the screen almost totally white and then the ballast wouldn't power my tv on it just had the red light. I am pretty much stuck at present with a non working tv and not enough money to repair it. It's a 60735 60 inch and it was made in may of 2008. I assume it was cut because of the problem with the white screen. Even with that it still did the yellow light thing as i put the light engine from it onto the lamp/ballast assembly from mine. Does that rule out a faulty thermal sensor or does that make it more likely that both mine and the one from it are bad? I am so frustrated and can't seem to remedy this issue. Maybe it's a lost cause and I'm just out of luck

Is the DMD sensor somewhere other than the one by the lamp housing? I found that one that plugs into the DMD board but I can't seem to find the DMD sensor unless that is it

Yes, did you look through that cleaning thread as I suggested?

I wasn't able to find the cleaning thread, I think I am just over looking it

Here's the link...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post16496239

I just did the cleaning this weekend - it was a pain, worst part was the 3 screws holding in the plastic barrel which didn't want to cooperate and I nearly stripped out completely.

But it's done. And it does look substantially better. Like a new set, even.

Well, my wd73831 just took a dump. Even with known good lamps (tested in another set) it will either not turn on and no error indicator, or the red lamp indicator will turn on.

Any suggestions. As I said, the lamps were tested in another set and both worked in the other set.

It was running fine, then just went to lamp indicator mode right in the middle of watching it.
If I unplug the set and let it sit, then turn it on, the green power LED will come on for about a min, there is a slight whine heard that spins up twice and dies down, and then the set just turns off (no amber error, no red lamp indicator). If I then turn it on again the red lamp indicator LED will come on. As I said though, both the lamp that was in the set at the time this happened and the spare I had on hand work in another set so it is clearly no the lamp bulb/housings.

Sorry to hear of your trouble. I know how that feels. Since the lamps test fine in another set your best bet is to call Mits. I assume you have reseated the lamps in the set after you tested them in the other one?

It sounds to me like maybe the internal fan is bad? If the TV will not stay powered on it almost sounds like a failsafe mechanism. I believe only a fan would make that high pitched whining noise. Just conjecture on my part though. Here is a LINK to Fan

EDIT: Could also be the power distribution unit is going bad. Try reseating the power plug and maybe use a different outlet/surge protector on the other end. Worth a shot. If it does end up being the power supply here is a LINK for you

Service is required. Contact your dealer or a Mitsubishi Authorized
Service Center to arrange for a service evaluation. Listings
of Mitsubishi Authorized Service locations can be obtained from
our web site, www.mitsubishi-tv.com or by calling 1-800-332-
2119.

Well, adding a few more tidbits. I did notice then other day that the left side (facing screen) had a line down it on all channels. Also, after it did its little thing today the first attempt to turn it on made a slight crunch noise.

Going to take the thing apart now and try cleaning out as much as possible and see if I can spot anything.

Took the lower back off, tried turning it on, both fans appear to be running fine.
Like the bulbs never even come on. As I said, tested them in another set so I know they work. as all I did was swap the housing from the other set.

Plastic barrel??
If you are referring to the metal lens barrel, that surely isn't plastic. It requires a #1 Phillips and firm pressure and a high twist tongue to loosen the screws or possible a gentle tap with a small hammer to the screwdriver to 'break' the tighten threads of the screws.

The color wheel is the noisiest, more so than the three fans.

Sounds more that it is the ballast. Do you hear a 'arcing' or 'snapping' sound when the set tried to start? I believe it tries three times and quits after the 3rd attempt.

BTW, there are no "bulbs" in these sets.

Yes, I guess during the one attempt to start it the crunchy sound could have been classified as an arc or snap. Meant bulbs as in both single bulb in housing units that work in another set. not bulbs as multiple bulbs in a single set at the same time. As I said, I have 2 complete housing with a bulb in each housing. Each housing+bulb testes fine in another set. Neither works in this set.

Yes, the spin up sound is not high pitched, just a whir and yes it does sound like it spins up about 3 times before the set goes into either shut off mode, or shut off with red lamp led turned on (seems to do one or the other and has varied during the many attempts to turn the set on).

I meant the term is lamps, not bulbs.

I would say it's the ballast. Logical place to start looking.

Well, got everything back together today and it appears to be working again all except for the discolored line down the left side. That is still there. I'll take some pics later.

attaching pic of the line down left side that has developed. That line is visible regardless of input. It is there regardless of what colors are being displayed, more visible on light scenes obviously.

I'll try and get some more and better pics later as the camera was not charged and didn't capture it very well.

Ok, here are some more pictures of the line that has developed along the left side of the screen. This is the only outstanding issue now as the set is otherwise working pretty well again.
The line down the left side of the screen is most noticeable during white scenes but I included some red from a popular insurance company commercial to show that it is visible in all colors. Just harder to see in some than others.

This started about 2 weeks ago and obviously was not related to the outage since the TV is now working again (and looking sharper than ever now).

1. You need to turn your camera/phone so the photo shows properly. It looks as the problem is at the top of the screen with half of those pics.

It looks like something is blocking the light path. It's clearly optical, not electronic. Something is out of alignment and/or not seated properly.

Well, the website does not allow uploading of 720x 1280 images so I rotated them. The ones where it looks like it is on the top are really just more close up of the side. The first 2 pics show the nearly the full set and can be used as orientation for the last 2 pics. the last 3 pictures are rotated clockwise since 1280x720 is allowed but not 720x1280.

Reduce the file size first.

Hi everybody, sorry if this is covered somewhere else in the forums, but I couldn't find a post about it with search.

I have a 65831, and it still works wonderfully. However, I am about to upgrade my old audio system, with an A/V receiver. I'm on a budget, and I want 3 component inputs - which I found with the Sony DH810 and DN1010.

I found the DN1010 a little cheaper than the DH810, and it's looks are more appealing to me. However, in finding differences in the models, it says that the DN1010 uses a Faroudja video chip.

Now, I remember back in the day, when trying to pick out a Oppo DVD player, that I had to stay away from the model with the Faroudja chip, due to macroblocking.

Does anyone out there know if the current Faroudja chips will cause the same macroblocking on my older DLP?

Thank you!

I'm having a problem with my 57731 where every time I turn it on the green light blinks for a minute or so and then the TV starts up with a message about Power Loss. If I turn it off then on again it seems to start up just fine, but when it has been off for a while, I get it again.

Any ideas on what could be causing this!? I am sure there have not been power outages, and I have tried the TV on 2 different outlets.

Sounds as what happens when the Bios battery dies on a motherboard. I never saw this complaint before. I don't remember seeing a memory back up button battery in any board, but never looked for one either.
Get the service manual and scope it out yourself for your model.