2007 Mitsubishi WD-XX73X and XX831 Owner's Thread - Page 312

It isn't the file size the board doesn't like, it is the dimensions (board accepts 1280x720 but not 720x1280). Rotated as vertical so that the image would correctly show as being the left side of the TV (although pretty clear in the one with the lamp turned on next to the TV) would not allow the image to be accepted. The same exact size of file oriented as it is will be accepted by the board. Since I wanted to provide the clearest possible picture of the problem I added those as well.

Any suggestions as to what it might be or where I might look? I've had the light engine out and did a complete cleaning and reseat as instructions you've provided in another thread. Thank you BTW - TV actually looks fantastic and like new again except for that line.

The line developed before the most recent bulb/lamp issue which as I said seems to have resolved itself. It happened about 2 weeks prior. I've contemplated removing the front screen and seeing if there is anything inside there as I did not see anything untoward when the light engine was out.

I got a notice in the mail yesterday concerning several models of this TV.

There has been a decision in a class-action lawsuit concerning capacitors and lamp problems. You can look up Civil Action No. 3:09-cv-01899 (RNC) or check this link http://settlement.mdea.com/ to see if your model qualifies.

If you have one of these models, this could be good news for you.

For the capacitor problem: (V26 or V30 chassis)
Option 1: You can receive a repair of your television with no charge for parts and labor.
Option 2: You have the opportunity to purchase a 2011 Mitsubishi DLP television at the dealer cost. Mitsubishi will ship the new television to you and will take your previous Mitsubishi television away, as required by the settlement.

For the models with the lamp problem: (V33 or V34 chassis)
If you own or have owned any of the models listed under the V33 or V34 chassis, from Table 1, that has not already received a free new mesh design lamp from Mitsubishi and has experienced a failure of the original lamp between April 1, 2011 and September 30, 2011, you are eligible to receive a free, new mesh design, replacement lamp. This new lamp will be warranted for three (3) months from the date it was shipped to you from Mitsubishi.

Tom Thomas; already posted in a separate thread.

Just trying to reach as many as possible, sorry if I'm too eager...

That's why I posted it in a separate thread.

I have the WD-65731 TV. I just replaced my bulb and I have to reset some of my settings.

I've been looking through this thread and looking at other settings. I noticed that many talk about a few settings I don't have in my Video setup.
Like:
Deep Field Imager: Off
Sharp Edge: off

Is this just something the 731 didn't have?

My 73831 has those in the video settings.

Step models have them enabled, lessor models aren't. I beleive in the service menu, they can be enabled, but I'm not sure.

You aren't missing anything with that sharp edge as it's always better off with any TV.
The DI is a different story. I leave it on since it 'drives' the output more than what can be had in the contrast & brightness settings after a new lamp dims down (breaks in) after 400 or so hours.

Hiya!

Quick question:

I have a WD-73831. Took everything apart to check for any obvious problems before I throw $ at a phillips lamp. Something struck me as being kinda odd in the unit.

The previous (burnt out bulb) has some strange white powdery residue on it, I assumed that most of the odd residue I found in the unit was due to the previous owner having the left hand side of the TV near a vent or some such...

There is a fan duct above where the lamp rests normally. This duct goes out to a 12v 5ish inch fan, but when I took the fan out to check it out, it blows air OUT not in. The only fan that appears to blow on the lamp is a small and slow fan that sits atop the casing of the ballast, pulling air in and over the components of the ballast and out onto the lamp.

So my question is- is this normal? The ONLY source of air that is hitting the lamp is air already hot from being used to cool the ballast? If this is the case I will be modifying the unit to have some sort of better intake for cool air to hit the area around the lamp.

Anytime you have a fan there is the probability of dirt/dust etc. collecting. Especially on items as this that have hundreds and thousands of hours on them and for the most part, never opened or cleaned.

Get the canister vacuum out and a fine bristled, clean, small brush and whever you do, don't use compressed air.

Oddly enough, my lamp went out almost at the same time I got the letter from MIT on the class action suit. Not wanting to wait for that, I purchased a lamp online and installed without a problem. I have noticed however that I am now getting more of a mottled image, especially on blacks and darker colors. Is this a problem with the Color Wheel and if so how much would you estimate to get it fixed? Or is it a problem with the off brand light I bought(haven't taken the time to move the behemouth again to try.

Screen shot? Preferably from a standard test pattern depending on what this actually looks like.

Is there a specific way to get a standard test pattern to appear on screen from in-TV menus?

Bohai,

If you are unfamiliar with this, do not go tinkering around in it. Take caution to hit the correct button at the correct place in these menus

On your remote press
MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7

it should blink the screen and pull up a menu

Press the AUDIO button until you see the second line say "fmt"

Press the VIDEO button until you see the third line say "12. IDL"

Press the FAST FORWARD button to cycle through the test patterns.

When you are done cycling through them, just press EXIT until the screen flickers and the hidden menu is gone.

Or use an image off a test DVD.

So I got a 73831 the other week that displayed no picture. Took out the optical engine and cleaned up lenses, color wheel had all sorts of gunk on it, threw in a new Phillips lamp and BAM good to go!

So I am hooking my computer up directly from a DVI port to DVI on the TV with a DVI-I single link cable.

I have a strange issue. I realize that true unaltered 1920x1080@60Hz (at least, according to the user manual) is going to have all sides slightly off the screen (I could use reduce format, but I wants crispness!!)- but OCCASIONALLY if I switch between resolutions, I get yellow text at the bottom of the screen stating:


Once this happens, if I switch back to 1920@1080@60Hz, it no longer appears correctly. In standard format the output from my computer to the screen is no longer 'too big' for the screen and there is a strange flickering. This can only be resolved by rebooting my computer, or switching to 24Hz and then back to 60Hz sometimes resolves it.

Is this a known issue?

Does anyone have EXACT information beyond what I have been able to find in the manuals for what this TV really likes over its DVI connection?

For example:
Scan type: Progressive or Interlaced?
Timing: GTF, DMT, CVT, CVT reduced, or a totally custom one?

If totally custom, what should the horizontal and vertical front porch and sync width be at 1920x1080? Is the polarity positive regardless?

Any help would be very appreciated

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/asset/f...e/WD-73831.pdf

Pg 88 and Appendix B.

Half the problem is the TV, the other half is the video card & software.
On my 57732, I had to change to a 'odd' resolution slightly lower than the 1920x1080 which one would assume would be correct. I too have excessive overscan running 1920x1080, but only slight underscan with the lower resolution.
IIRC, it's 1650 or around 1700 x 1000.

There is always Powerstrip;
http://www.entechtaiwan.com/util/ps.shtm

Thank you for the suggestions.

Should I upgrade my firmware? Currently "NetCommand Software: V33+ 008.01"

The reason I ask this is, the manual says :


But this isn't at all true. When I press VIDEO I cycle through stuff like 'PerfectColor', brightness, contrast, etc. None of those options appear except Horizontal and Vertical position.

Is the manual just wrong or is my firmware somehow older than the manual? That 'Auto position' thing sounds like it might have been pretty nice!

Hmm I may end up trying that out, I am currently using an nVidia 8800 GT or GTX Ultra and the nVidia control panel has the ability to set custom resolutions, but I've seen their 'control panel' act very strange in the past so I may opt to use that one instead.

The main reason I don't want to do a custom resolution is I might want to do some gaming from time to time. Many of my games do not use the desktop resolution and they typically only support standard resolutions

Those settings are for the VGA input.

video processing options are not present for dvi/vga input as that signal goes directly to the dmd chip (or something to that effect). i also have an nvidia card and use a dvi to hdmi cable mostly to get audio through HDMI. mine is set at 1840x1004, the nvidia drivers is also capable of scaling the games resolutions to the custom ones you set, my games that are set to 1920x1080 for example will be rendered at 1840x1004, 1280x800 will be scaled to 1204x760 etc.

On page 97 of the Owner's Guide there is a very specific list of compatible resolutions and sync rates. If you send something other than the compatible resolutions, you very well may get the error messages - even while showing some picture - and not have the controls usable. Being designed primarily as a TV and not a computer monitor, the functions as a computer monitor almost always are more limited than a display that is primarily a computer monitor.

The Auto position, manual positions and fine details are for DVI-A analog PC signals so they may not be available or useable for DVI-D digital PC signals.

Ohhhh I see. Thank you all for the input, this forum is wonderful!

Hmm curious little issue going on.

Twice today the TV has cut off awhile I was in a different room doing other stuff.

The first time, I had been watching stuff for roughly 2 hours. I left for about 30 minutes, came back, and it was off. So I held the INPUT/MENU buttons to get an error code and it gave me code 12 (nothing wrong).

So I turned it back on, and all was well.. So I assumed maybe it was Windows putting the display on standby mode, which it wasn't waking up from. So I changed the power options in windows so that it would never turn the monitor off if idle. I figured that was probably it. But no..

I used the TV for another 2 or so hours, left the room for 45ish minutes, came back, same thing! My computer is still on, tv is off, code 12...

Any ideas on how I should proceed to troubleshoot this?

As I stated, VGA.

The TVs do not operate per the standard Windows control for standby and power on etc. If your computer stops sending a video signal to the TV via the HDMI input the TV gets a blue screen and after 5 mintues will power off completely.

Make sure the computer is actually sending a video signal even while in idle in order to keep the TV tuned on.

Ah, very interesting! Thank you!

Guess I'll have to see why my comp is being silly. It *might* still have hibernation turned on even though I disabled the standby/power down monitor stuff.

Here's another side question: How much worse is it for the lamp to turn the TV off and on once every day rather than just leaving it running 24/7?

If the lamp timer really isn't resetable, I'm pretty amazed because it is only showing around 7100 hours.

I've got an intermittent issue with the display flickering, maybe once every 5-10 minutes.

It gives me a flicker, and then sometimes the lamp output isn't as bright (maybe 10% darker), and then it flickers again and the lamp output is back to normal.

Brand new Phillips lamp.

Does this sound like a ballast issue or am I completely off?

Sounds might it might be the iris.

Under what type of scenes does this occur? Day, night, mixed?
Does it happen with fixed scenes of no image change?
Try a test DVD, put up a fixed pattern and see if it does it then.
How long is it on when this happens?
How many hours?
Doubtful it's the lamp. Look around the back and see if the lamp output changes from behind the set when it happens.