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Best calibration DVD? - Page 3

post #61 of 93
Yes, it works very well with plasmas.
post #62 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvincent View Post

Yes, it works very well with plasmas.

thanks
post #63 of 93
Yes.
post #64 of 93
I have a question for you folks.
I don't have any of the calibration disks that are out on the market. While I would love to fund GetGrey, I do not have any of the filters that are required for optimal calibration. Is there anywhere I could pick up the filters by themselves? Am I reading too much into it? Does GetGrey even require the use of color filters?

I am thinking of just picking up DVE, but, it has received so many varied remarks that I am actually scared of it.

I have an Oppo 970 connected via HDMI to a Sony 50E2000 3LCD with a max output of 720p/1080i. What is the best thing for my setup?

Thanks.
post #65 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkwest View Post

While I would love to fund GetGrey,...

jkwest,

You can find Get Gray at this site.

http://www.calibrate.tv/

---Jerry---
post #66 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkwest View Post

Is there anywhere I could pick up the filters by themselves? Am I reading too much into it? Does GetGrey even require the use of color filters?

Blue filter glasses are available from the THX website. As little as a week or two ago, they were free.

You can also obtain filters from GetGray for a small fee.
post #67 of 93
You can also get filters for a few dollars from DVE's website too, and Ovation's as well.
post #68 of 93
The THX site is down right now (for re-construction). The DVE site is http://www.videoessentials.com/extra_filters.php. The Ovation filters are here http://ovation.stores.yahoo.net/adavfil.html, but are way too expensive ($20 vs. $3 for the DVE set and $1 for the THX "glasses", blue only).

I own AVIA, DVE, and the GetGray Caldisc. I prefer the GetGray (I haven't used the others in over a year).
post #69 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eliab View Post

While this procedure will work for the majority of displays, there are a few that require an ISF technician to achieve the desired results. For example, the current Samsung DLP RPTVs utilize a color coordinate adjustment mode known as "CCA" which color corrects the primary and secondary colors to system specifications. It does this by adding red and green to blue, thus negating the results when using a color filter. As such, it can only be adjusted properly by temporarily disabling the CCA option within the service menu.

Hi, I have a Samsung HLR5064 and it has a ridiculous yellow push. The yellow bar is glaring when I look through the blue filter, and to a lesser extent the green bar. Now, the greyscale has already been calibrated on this set. Does this mean there is a way to decrease the intenisty of the yellow on this display? Thanks.
post #70 of 93
Avical's DVE user-level video calibration tutorial
I tried using this for my Optoma HD71 Projector.

First on the brightness with the Pluge.

I only see the 4 boxes down the center white to gray and 2 bars on either side can't remember if they represent 2% and 4% ? Anyhow I don't see the outer most black bars like I do or can with my 42" CRT Rear Projection HDTV.

Even when I adjust brightness from lowest to highest I can only see max 2 bars on each outside

When I try and adjust contrast using the same pattern, I'm not sure I see anything.

I don't quite understand what I should look for using the ramp pattern/

What about colour, tint, red, green and blue bias and gain? Very confusing.

When I look at blue first it appears pretty good without any adjustments, red and green were close as well.

Sharpness. I see no difference no matter where I set it from lowest -something to highest so I left at 0 in the middle which was the default

I'm using HDMI cable connected to PS3
post #71 of 93
I'm buying my first HDTV, a Panasonic TH-PX4280U plasma. Is there really any reason to calibrate anything other than sharpness, brightness, contrast and color (by sight only) for an out-of-box Panny? It looks like the GetGray disk will do all that and more if I need it later. Is GetGray for a video newbie like me?
post #72 of 93
I would read the instruction manual that you can download off the site and if it makes sense to you then you are probably OK.

As far as eyeballing it goes, that is better than nothing but for the best results you really want to use a meter of some kind. That being said, even for eyeballing the disc is just what you need.
post #73 of 93
Thanks, jvincent, I'm reading through it now and so far so good. Think I'll try eyeballing it for now. I am definately an audiofool, not a videofool... yet.
post #74 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by bretski View Post

Blue filter glasses are available from the THX website. As little as a week or two ago, they were free.

No longer. $1.99, plus (at least) $2.50 shipping.

Got me all excited there for a minute, heh.
post #75 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSchoolAudFool View Post

Thanks, jvincent, I'm reading through it now and so far so good. Think I'll try eyeballing it for now. I am definately an audiofool, not a videofool... yet.

Eyeballing it using a calibration disc works a lot better. Without a reference, you are just guessing (and a person's brain can be easily fooled). I don't use meters either, but I wouldn't be without a calibration disc (I have AVIA, DVE, GetGray, and others - I prefer the GetGray disc, it's easier and faster to use).

PS - Thanks for the vote of confidence, I wrote the GetGray "Instructions" (with important editorial input from Scott, = GetGray).
post #76 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post

Eyeballing it using a calibration disc works a lot better. Without a reference, you are just guessing (and a person's brain can be easily fooled). I don't use meters either, but I wouldn't be without a calibration disc (I have AVIA, DVE, GetGray, and others - I prefer the GetGray disc, it's easier and faster to use).

PS - Thanks for the vote of confidence, I wrote the GetGray "Instructions" (with important editorial input from Scott, = GetGray).

Hi all, I need some help. First time doing calibration. I just bought the Avia II DVD and the DVE HD Basics (BD). I have a PS3 as my primary DVD player and Blu-Ray player. I have a question about using the Avia DVD. Will I be able to calibrate my hdtv (40xbr4) with the Avia II DVD using the PS3. I just want to calibrate the hdtv with Avia II for regular channels (Cable- sd and hd channels). Can I used the Avia DVD using my ps3 to calibrate my cable input (hdmi)? Can I calibrate any input by using the Avia DVD on my ps3?. I will be using the DVE HD to calibrate my ps3 for blu-ray movies.

Also, do I need anything else to calibrate my TV? I was reading something about blue filters, i have none. I bought these from Amazon. I didn't see any filters in the box. Any help please, thanks.
post #77 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by CT_Wiebe View Post

Eyeballing it using a calibration disc works a lot better. Without a reference, you are just guessing (and a person's brain can be easily fooled). I don't use meters either, but I wouldn't be without a calibration disc (I have AVIA, DVE, GetGray, and others - I prefer the GetGray disc, it's easier and faster to use).

PS - Thanks for the vote of confidence, I wrote the GetGray "Instructions" (with important editorial input from Scott, = GetGray).

Feeling dumb here...

Where are the instructions posted. There are alot of Getgrey threads around here now and I am having trouble pin pointing this. I have the THX glasses on the way. My HD DVE came without filters (well it came with a green filter of all things) and I want to try GetGrey with my new THX glasses on my PZ85.

Thanks!

PS - Is there any thread where a professional calibrator compared results obtained from DVE versus Getgrey? Just curious.

C.
post #78 of 93
The instructions are downloadable from the website.

http://calibrate.tv/docs/GetGrayCalDiscReadme.zip
post #79 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvincent View Post

The instructions are downloadable from the website.

http://calibrate.tv/docs/GetGrayCalDiscReadme.zip

Ahhh I thought they were some he wrote up special apart from the official docs.

Thanks!

C.
post #80 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by cvearl View Post

PS - Is there any thread where a professional calibrator compared results obtained from DVE versus Getgrey? Just curious

Somewhere, deep in the original (main) GetGray DVD thread (see signature) I went over how I backed into the patterns on DVE PRO and AVIA PRO to verify to that my patterns were correct. The data coming off of the GetGray DVD is perfectly correct. The YCbCr encoding of the original 8 bit RGB source patterns decodes properly back to the correct RGB (as well as can be done with the colorspace formulas 8 bit rounding errors. You can get more patterns elsewhere, but you cannot get any that are more accurate. If I remember correctly, I found some mpeg compression video noise in AVAI pro solid patterns, those are not on mine or DVE Pro. As for comparing to the consumer versions, my patterns are way better than one of them. Same but more complete and easier to navigate than the other one.

What is important to understand is if the GetGray DVD displays correctly, then a DVD will also. If it does not, you will have the identical errors watching a DVD.

HTH, gotta run...
post #81 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

Somewhere, deep in the original (main) GetGray DVD thread (see signature) I went over how I backed into the patterns on DVE PRO and AVIA PRO to verify to that my patterns were correct. The data coming off of the GetGray DVD is perfectly correct. The YCbCr encoding of the original 8 bit RGB source patterns decodes properly back to the correct RGB (as well as can be done with the colorspace formulas 8 bit rounding errors. You can get more patterns elsewhere, but you cannot get any that are more accurate. If I remember correctly, I found some mpeg compression video noise in AVAI pro solid patterns, those are not on mine or DVE Pro. As for comparing to the consumer versions, my patterns are way better than one of them. Same but more complete and easier to navigate than the other one.

What is important to understand is if the GetGray DVD displays correctly, then a DVD will also. If it does not, you will have the identical errors watching a DVD.

HTH, gotta run...

Thanks for the reply

C.
post #82 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eliab View Post

Those with digital displays should run the contrast control up to see if the steps start to blend together. The proper position for contrast is below the point of clipping, i.e. when each bar is distinguishable and/or uniform in color.

On some displays, turning the contrast down will not pull the video out of the clip. This is often an indication that the DVD player is running into its own digital clip. If so, go back to the player's setup menu and turn down its contrast by one click. This will usually eliminate the clip. If not, lower the contrast by another click and so on until every bar is clearly visible. In some cases, the two lightest bars will remain blended together no matter how much the contrast is lowered. In such cases, revert the player to its factory contrast setting.

Eliab, first off this post was incredibly helpful. Thanks. I have a Samsung ln46a630 lcd set. I used the Digital Video Essentials DVD (not blu ray) - played it from a normal DVD player, with component outputs connected to my tv. On this above step, could you explain what you mean by "when each bar is distinguishable and/or uniform in color"? On the top quarter and the bottom quarter of the screen there are ramps (non-stepped). In the middle of the screen there are two stepped ramps, the steps of the upper ramp get brighter from right to left, the steps of the lower ramp get brighter from left to right. So, are we talking about the last few steps in each ramp (the ones that are most white)? what do you mean by "distinguishable"? do you mean that if you turn the contrast all the way up the last few steps (the brightest ones) should be basically the same shade of bright white (i.e., clipped), and as you lower the contrast the second-to-last and third-to-last steps should start to darken so that they have a slightly different shade than the last (brightest white) step? I find it very hard to know exactly when that point is. From contrast setting 95-100 I can tell they're all clipping. Below 75 or 80 I can definitely see different shades in those last three brightest steps. But between 80-95, it looks exactly the same to me I guess.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Eliab View Post

Adjust the color control (amplitude) so that the two outer blue squares appear close in shade with one another. This may alter the shade of the magenta and cyan squares which will need to be adjusted using the tint/hue control (phase) so that they appear as close in shade with one another as well. There may be a bit of going back and forth before favorable results are achieved.

On this above step, the two outer blue squares (meaning the top right square and the bottom left square) appeared exactly the same shade when looking thru the blue filter (or when i put the tv in "blue only" mode). Changing the color control had no effect whatsoever on this. Any thoughts?

Thanks again.
post #83 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eliab View Post

You're welcome and good luck!

Eliab

I have a panasonic pt ax200u, and I would like to know what is a good calibration DVD for projectors, and is it worth it to have a professional calibration done?
post #84 of 93
Greetings

Worth is relative. Yes for some people ... no for others. Is an apple worth it? Is a swimming pool worth it? Is an expensive car worth it?

What is the cost of your time worth to learn to do it all yourself and also buy the equipment needed to do this ... versus the cost of hiring a professional to come and do it for you?

If the cost of your time is worth little ... then do it yourself. The Equipment will still cost you money though.

If you value your time more than the cost of getting a professional to do it ...then you have your answer yet again.
post #85 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uatatoka View Post

I'll second that. GetGray is the best bar none. I feel like pulling my hair out trying to use Avia after using GetGray...

but its not offered in hd. so whats a guy with a blu ray player to do?
post #86 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by phasar View Post

I have a panasonic pt ax200u, and I would like to know what is a good calibration DVD for projectors, and is it worth it to have a professional calibration done?

Calibrating a projection system including the audio is definitely worth it.
post #87 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by whityfrd View Post

but its not offered in hd. so whats a guy with a blu ray player to do?

As has been mentioned several times use the AVSHD disc. Alternatively, given a compatible notebook, you could use one of the generators.
post #88 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by outdoor View Post

Avical's DVE user-level video calibration tutorial
I tried using this for my Optoma HD71 Projector.

First on the brightness with the Pluge.

I only see the 4 boxes down the center white to gray and 2 bars on either side can't remember if they represent 2% and 4% ? Anyhow I don't see the outer most black bars like I do or can with my 42" CRT Rear Projection HDTV.

Even when I adjust brightness from lowest to highest I can only see max 2 bars on each outside

When I try and adjust contrast using the same pattern, I'm not sure I see anything.

I don't quite understand what I should look for using the ramp pattern/

What about colour, tint, red, green and blue bias and gain? Very confusing.

When I look at blue first it appears pretty good without any adjustments, red and green were close as well.

Sharpness. I see no difference no matter where I set it from lowest -something to highest so I left at 0 in the middle which was the default

I'm using HDMI cable connected to PS3

Brightness: Depending on the source, you sometimes won't see the darker outside bar. So you have to use the next darkest bar. Turn down darkness until you don't see the dark bar (but still see the lightest bar). Then, turn brightness back up until you just see the dark bar. You should see the lightest bar clearly, and barely see the darker bar.

Color: Check with the blue filter first. If you're using the DVE color bar test, just make sure all the blue squares are the same shade of blue.

Tint: Using the same blue filter and color bar test make sure the inside boxes at the top are the same shade as the inside boxes at the bottom. If you perform both functions right...all the boxes should look the same shade, for the most part.

Then check with the red filter. If the red filter shows the inside boxes a brighter shade than the background, that means red is saturated too high. It is recommended to lower brightness down to the point where the inside boxes are close to the same shade as the background. This will probably mean re-adjusting tint (by making sure the box at top is same shade as box on bottom).

Sharpness: If you see no difference, you probably don't need to turn sharpness up at all. The DVE does a good job explaining why "sharpness" is not necessary in most TVs.
post #89 of 93
I have a new panasonic tc-p50s1 plasama. I am about 30 hours into it, leaving settings low and avoiding bars/static images for the first 100 hours.

I want to run a dvd to calibrate it after the 100 hours are up. I do not yet have a Blu-Ray player, still using a standard dvd player.

I am a little confused as to which calibration dvd to get. The GetGray one will be compatible with my set, yes? i have heard bad stuff about the Digital Video Essentials one, it being confusing.

For someone who has never had an HD TV before (Me), if I pay $25 for the GetGray dvd, will it be pretty simple and easy for me to get the TV calibrated? I am not THAT nit-picky with PQ, so I do not want to pay hundreds of dollars for a professional calibration, but I am certainly willing to shell out $25 to make my plasma look better.

Thanks.
post #90 of 93
Greetings

DVE is only confusing if you do not know how to read or follow instructions in spoken english.

regards
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