Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 350

However, sometimes channels that play mostly HD sometimes have an hour long show - or maybe even 2 or 3 hours back to back - in SD, otherwise known in aspect ratio circles as 4x3. In those cases yes you'll be getting 1080i, but still with black side bars.

On my Dish 622 DVR, I am often changing the remote's Format AR control down at the lower left corner to expand/zoom because of this just to keep the screen filled up, even tho everything that comes out of my DVR is set to come out as 1080i.

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Mine can. I'll put mine up against any same-sized plasma out there, and it will stand tall. My screenshots on page 260 of this thread show that.

Turn me loose on yours and you may be surprised.

Sorry to lose you!



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Can't fight that! Enjoy -

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HDCP makes sure that anything that looks like a processor is suspect, and usually gets blocked, in its constant quest to not allow copying/duplication of HD video material. Many perfectly good AVRs that have HDMI switching LOOK like processors to the electronic HDCP watchdogs built-in to your AVR, and thus get blocked. No video. Not your fault. You didn't do anything wrong. Talk with the HDCP people.


And yes I am definitely excited about coming over to your side of the country to do a few calibrations for youse guys!

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If such things appear at one side or another, it's convergence error. If it surrounds the object it's blooming, caused by bad focusing. Either electronic or mechanical.


That's not the only focusing. It is electronic for the CRT screens, it is mechanical for the lenses that project that image to your view screen. For the mechanical, I recommend the Cantilever Technique, the process I came up with for focusing on screens way back before HD came along. There's a video by me on how to do that on YouTube, see my channel: mrbobbigscreen at www.youtube.com.

The contrast level - or master light level of your images - affects the electronic focusing. Too much causes blooming. If your light level is not set to roughly halfway up then it's too high. 100% contrast is definitely too high, always.

My 73" Mit arrived in balls to the wall, full tilt boogie Torch Mode, and that made it horribly out of focus. I took care of that immediately! Took down the Contrast level to below half - it's that way on the Mits's - and the pic sharpened up instantly.

Things like contrast should always be kept roughly in the middle of their linear operating range.

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Yes, but I would welcome feedback on what videos you owners would like to see, out there. I have a couple in mind that I am working on, but again, what would you like to see?

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Thank you! Only too glad to help.

Now if your set's optics have not been cleaned in 8 years - 12 years old minus 4 years dormant - they need cleaning ferociously by now, you have no idea what you're missing out on. How much more crystal clear your viewing will be afterwards, compared to the relatively bleary picture you're now watching. Which would be even worse had you been watching your set all these 12 years! Contact me and we'll get you that crystal clear light path again, so you can have crystal clear viewing again.


I repeat to all CRT RPTV owners regardless of brand or model that this op should not be done lightly. Those soft plastic optical grade surfaces will scratch at the drop of a hat, and such damage is immediate and permanent. Please contact me for guidance in how to do it correctly, and safely at all times. It takes about an hour of phone guidance with you doing the actual work on your end wherever you live in the world, and me riding Millennium Falcon shotgun on my end. After that you can do it completely on your own whenever needed, as my instructions are very comprehensive and time-tested - I have been doing this op and instructing on it as well since long before HD ever got here - and you can record the call if you like, for future reference.

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Thank you, Jetmeck. I AM trying, out here!





Owners:

Is yours a Pioneer PRO 510/610/710 or PRO 520/620/720? If so has it had any intermittent problems that come and go? If so and it's one of the x10s, your power supply board needs nearly complete resoldering, and this needs to be done early on if you want to avoid damage that will ensue if you don't get that handled promptly. It is NOT best left in the hands of most local repair servicers, who only repair what's bad now. They typically do not future-proof that board, which is my specialty.

If it's one of the x20 series, chances are it's the same board if it has the same symptoms. There's a test to know for sure: If it's vertically mounted in there to the bulkhead of the set, it IS the same board. If mounted on the floor, it's not.

If it is, please get that board to me for resoldering and restoring permanently stable operations to your set again. Any boards I resolder carry my lifetime warranty on that problem not coming back again, as long as it was caused by cold solder joints on that board, which is how it came out of the factory and thus applies to every one of those sets ever produced. If you have me do it you'll never again have to worry about it, for the life of your set. I have been doing this resoldering op for over 7 years now, and this applies to all boards I have ever done, whether that guaranty was in place at the time I did your board or not.

And these sets are only midway thru their 20 year service life. Keeping it alive rather than buying new is the right thing to do, and not just to keep them out of the world's landfills. They were designed for the ultimate in HD viewing and are true classics, right up there with MacIntosh tube-amp Audio. Worthy of being kept alive for years and years to come. Fully cleaned and supertweaked, I will place them right up there with the new stuff you can buy today, which doesn't last nearly as long! And not only will they stand tall, they will soundly trounce most of the easily affordable stuff out there, by a noticeable margin.

Help me save more of these incredible sets. I have only saved several tons of sets so far in the last 7 years since I started fixing them, and am eager for more!

Once they are stable again, please allow me to bring them back to life for you, to a grade I guaranty you have never seen before if they have never been cleaned or calibrated. If you want to see what your sets SHOULD be looking like, please see page 45 of the Pioneer Elite PRO 510 Problem thread for actual screenshots of your vintage of set in action!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...402397&page=45



Mr Bob

PS -

Yes, there's just a bit of self-promotion in there, but just a little bit. Nothing compared to what you get out of it. Your gain is levels of magnitude greater than mine, if you stay with me on this. Sure I make out a bit, but you make out better. Every time. You get your multi-thousand dollar set back, and don't have to buy new, knowing that the new stuff is not lasting NEARLY as long as what you have in your hands right now! And in a condition most of you have never seen before. I get to stay in biz - THIS biz, not being a manager at a McDonald's or a Best Buy. Seems like a fair trade to me!

Get me your Pioneer PS boards! Get your set back! Then have me escalate the game of you and get your family's HD viewing to a grade of fidelity you can only dream of if you have not experienced it yet.






Mr Bob

Remember potential buyers, the WS-65813 is the model with the 9" guns!

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And when properly set up, with a depth the readily affordable plasmas can only dream of. You have to get to the $5-6000 plasma retail price levels to have a depth that's even similar to that of a well dialed-in CRT!

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