Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 353

I watch my 73" at 9' on Dish Network, or 8' if only BDs. Fully set up as it was designed to be, any 73" Mit can be watched at 10' in full crispness. Having a pro do a full tilt calibration and getting the benefit of his experience and expertise can make it even crisper than that.

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No processor can restore something that was never there. It can synthesize it, but if it's not there in the first place, it's not native and as such the same high res just really doesn't exist. That's why 1080i HD blows away anything Faroudja was ever able to accomplish by revamping and upscaling native 480i SD, like we used to have to do with the bigger screens. $20K Faroudja line doubling/tripling/quadrupling processors became small boat anchors the day HD came along.

If you get a xxx13, 15 or 17 series, be sure and have the Craig Rounds anti-ee mod done to it, tho on the 17 series Mit may have already done it. Improves your crispness. CR wrote a white paper on this op, and asked me to proof read and get it ready for prime time, which I did promptly, sent it back to him same day. Kept a copy of course! And could not wait to try it out as soon as I had a set that could use it.

Which happened when I got the one I know have.


HDMI.

Some part of the design of the Mit HDMI circuit lacks the bandwidth/frequency range/high resolution to display the really fine stuff, which winds up arriving as mulchy picture compared to DVI from the earlier year or component from any of their model years. It's like a filtering capacitor was installed right across the leads of the signal, acting like a filter, absorbing the highest of frequencies.

Both Craig Rounds and I have found this, and I am sure he can get you data from his scope about it. I haven't seen the results of putting a scope on it, but it's totally visible to me just from watching content. I know that if both he and I are seeing it, it's there.

DVI is the best rendition of HDCP oriented viewing on the Mits HDreadys. Don't even try to use their HDMI inputs of the following year, you will be most disappointed.

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Could be the ICs are tired, could be you need to have experience in convergence and geometry to truly get it right. That kind of squiggle does not usually indicate IC problems.

The Toshibas have to have their 9 points centered in User menu before you can even hope to get their points all straight in service menu. The lines need to be straight and all curls straightened out in User even if that places your points way off in service, where such things can be readily corrected.

Even service menu cannot straighten out curls between points, if whatever you have done has generated them in ways the system did not like.*

With Panasonics you can paint yourself into a corner quite handily and need to wipe the paradigm out and start completely over if you're not already adept at it, and/or know how to steer clear of the landmines in there. There's no substitute for experience.



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Once you score, contact me and I'll get that sucker dialed in for you. I'm in East Bay, where 238 hits 880.

Send me your contact info and we can keep in touch -



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And since all Mit 73's use the same 9" guns, it really doesn't matter which model 73" you get, on that score.

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Time has come for me to clear out my emails from my ISP again, and there are so many this time that it is going to take a while!

Until I have this handled this time, if you want to reach me by email, please send all emails to mrbob84@gmail.com. Phone number is always available regardless of email status, of course.

I'll get this handled as soon as I can.

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I think the crisis has passed. I got a lot of work done on downloading it all to Outlook, so now there's just a really small, innocuous amount of email on my ISP.

I think the regular email address will work fine now. Let me know if you get any bouncebacks -

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If there's any question in your mind about whether your set has the drip pan or not, unplug your set and remove the plate down below on the front and take a looksee with a small strong flashlight aimed back at you while shining it on the boards below the guns.

If there are drips, you'll either see the gleam of the liquid if it has not evaporated yet - takes months, possibly years - or the blue-green algae-like evidence of dried coolant - which is partially conductive - that has caused electrolysis and corrosion.

If you indeed have a drip pan installed in your set, it is about 10" long and 3" wide, running the length of your set's metal cowling, which surrounds the guns up above the boards beneath.

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No experience with this model, but it's a lot more recent than a 65903 or 65905 would be, the xxx03 series being the first Mit designed for HD. Their model numbers usually had odd numbers at the end. Have heard no complaints -

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Congrats! Hope you super tweak it and keep us in the loop, here.

First thing, see how strongly it's been used by examining it for its aging footprint, by shining a flashlight right into the lenses to see the CRT face beneath. If very little, you might be able to get away with the advanced step past the shim op, where you re-aim the guns and recapture that last little bit of unused CRT face area, for greater depth in your pic.

A 65" with 9" guns can be set up just as well as a 73" as they use the same guns in both, and you can set your viewing chair to just the right distance for either for the ultimate in viewing pleasure. As such you can have just as big a perceived picture on a Mit 65813 as on a Mit 73".

Be sure and do the CraigR anti-ringing mod, your year was the first model year he used it on. He came to me to do his editing, and I couldn't wait to plug it into my 73"!

And don't worry about the deeper optics cleaning, it won't need that. Just the lenses and mirror. Since it's a 65" you won't have to worry about mylar either, it will already have a top notch pro grade front surface glass mirror.

On my 73", I run my PerfectColor with all 3 of the corrolating colors full up, and the Red down a few notches. Yours may or may not be improved with those settings. The best way to get rid of its built-in red push - another word for blue-green diminish - is with the proper HD test patterns and the color isolators in there, plus the proper guidance and methodology. Which of course I would be glad to coach you on by phone. I was personally trained in those arts years ago by Paul Carleton, founder of www.***************.com, and a former video cameraman.

You have not lived until you have realigned out the red push/blue-green diminish and restored color accuracy, and are actually seeing delicate, lifelike, actually true to life colorations at all points! It makes the term suspension of disbelief an understatement...!

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Awesome examples! Hope owners of some of the other brands do the deeper optics as well, because those 6 additional surfaces in the deeper optics category comprise more than half the 10 surfaces of the 28 total that may need cleaning, depending on the brand.

Here's the results of having all 28 surfaces in your light path crystal clear again, on a Pioneer set where all 10 in question needed cleaning (as opposed to the Mit in pix in the last post, which only needs the initial 4 cleaned). Mit seals their lenses to their CRT coolant covers properly whereas other brands do not. This means that on other brands 10 of the 28 surfaces need cleaning on other brands, to Mit's 4 -

The importance of this step cannot be overly stressed. It is ESSENTIAL! It usually takes about an hour if you're a quick study, less if you are long experienced like I am. If you are totally inexperienced at it, it could take a little longer.


Before:




After (same day and from then on!):





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Chuck is an excellent calibrator and service technician. I am sure you have a picture to be proud of.

When was the last time you had the optics cleaned?

I will be coming to Portland for a few days around the 14th of this month, so if you would like to have me fine tune your color decoding to lifelike delicacy and/or install the CraigR anti-ringing mod for you, contact me well ahead of that so I can be equipped with the proper parts.

Contact me directly, no pm's please -

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