Congrats! Hope you super tweak it and keep us in the loop, here.
First thing, see how strongly it's been used by examining it for its aging footprint, by shining a flashlight right into the lenses to see the CRT face beneath. If very little, you might be able to get away with the advanced step past the shim op, where you re-aim the guns and recapture that last little bit of unused CRT face area, for greater depth in your pic.
A 65" with 9" guns can be set up just as well as a 73" as they use the same guns in both, and you can set your viewing chair to just the right distance for either for the ultimate in viewing pleasure. As such you can have just as big a perceived
picture on a Mit 65813 as on a Mit 73".
Be sure and do the CraigR anti-ringing mod, your year was the first model year he used it on. He came to me to do his editing, and I couldn't wait to plug it into my 73"!
And don't worry about the deeper optics cleaning, it won't need that. Just the lenses and mirror. Since it's a 65" you won't have to worry about mylar either, it will already have a top notch pro grade front surface glass mirror.
On my 73", I run my PerfectColor with all 3 of the corrolating colors full up, and the Red down a few notches. Yours may or may not be improved with those settings. The best way to get rid of its built-in red push - another word for blue-green diminish - is with the proper HD test patterns and the color isolators in there, plus the proper guidance and methodology. Which of course I would be glad to coach you on by phone. I was personally trained in those arts years ago by Paul Carleton, founder of www.***************.com
, and a former video cameraman.
You have not lived until you have realigned out the red push/blue-green diminish and restored color accuracy, and are actually seeing delicate, lifelike, actually true to life
colorations at all points! It makes the term suspension of disbelief