Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 356

I just got a reply back from the owner, he said that if i still want the set i could have it for practically free. Now i did not get an answer back about if there are any green blinking lights. From what i have read this could be either the 7 caps on the DM module or the convergance IC ? He just says that turns on and then turns right off.

Thank you

Moved from the Pioneer EP 510 thread as it was OT.

As discussed there, I had problems with my 530HD RPTV. Based on symptoms:

it was suggested a convergence amp failure. Thanks to Mr Bob and various threads here on AVS forum (see pinned RPTV repair thread) it appeared my failure was in the red vertical convergence channel, and this problem is very common. Some threads suggest also resistor and maybe cap failures are possible too, at least in some brands. With encouragement from members here I decided to dig in. In worst case I could buy a Sony LCD replacement.

First up was to remove the lower back access panel


The power supply card containing the convergence circuitry is in the middle. There were around 8 ribbon connectors running to cards left and right of the PS card. Also some other connectors. Then there are about a dozen screws holding down the card. There are also some connectors on the "back" of the card (when viewed from behind the set) that aren't very accessible due to the CRT neck/card right above the large heat sink for the conv amps.

There is a panel behind the speaker grill on the lower front of the set. I pulled the screws but it wouldn't budge. I wasn't sure if it was supposed to be removable or not. But a couple taps from the inside and it started loosening, so I was confident to give a couple more taps and then pull off from the front. It is located on wood dowels, one on each side and was just stuck at first. Once I got that panel off it was a breeze to get at that end of the PS card, and I would have saved about half my time had I got that off first.

With the panel off you can see the Sanyo STK amps vertically mounted on the HS. Note that on the front right side of the card (looking from the front of the set) there are three identical connectors (RGB) so you need to label the connectors when you remove them.

With everything off and a little juggling the PS card came out the back. There is a small daughter card mounted on the PS card and this has the digital convergence data in EPROMs. I guess the idea is that if you need to replace the PS card you should retain that daughter card. While that card is socketed it also is soldered in as well. Not sure why Pioneer did that, maybe they were getting loose?

The amps are 18 pin single row in line and desoldered from the back. I decided to break down and get a proper de-solder iron from RS which made it easy to remove the amps. The amps are held to the HS with 2 screws. Once off there is some old thermal grease which I removed.



I did a visual of the card and didn't see any evidence of bad parts, and elected not to try to check the resistors etc, just replace the amps and try it. As recommended I sourced the amps from MCM electronics. Got them in about 4 days (I'm in Hawaii). I see those Sanyo parts are discontinued (STK392-180 and many others) so I don't know how long repair is going to be possible.

I used some HS grease from RS (didn't go for the better stuff like AS5 ) applied like I would on a CPU or GPU. No problem soldering the new amps in.

Reassembly was pretty fast (since I knew what I had to do). While in there I tried to blow out as much dust as I could.

I fired it up and just went into the user convergence multi-point adjustment. I considered going into factory mode but my results seemed pretty good so for now I'm not going to.

I took off the AR screen and I want to check the mirror and lenses and clean them up some. Meanwhile I have about 10 hours since the fix and all is well.

Thanks again for all the help on this forum.

scott s.
.

Do you need to be in Service Mode for the Yellow Button to work?

I have my PS3 connected to my Mits 73713 by an HDMI/DVI cable (the PS3 does not have component out). I am actually feeding the PS3 into a processor - HDMI on both ends, and the processor is HDMI to DVI to the Mits. DVD's work fine, but when I install, on the PS3, a system upgrade or the recent Amazon app, the picture goes to 100% noise. If I switch to another device on the processor, the picture is fine. The only way I can get rid of the noise from the PS3 is to turn it off and on.
Both Sony and Mits service have punted on this. Any ideas???

Pssssst.....



Monoprice.com for less than five bucks...

Certainly worth a try- thank you!

Rage Guy-
I think you sent a photo of the DVI to component-I need an HDMI to component, which Monoprice doesn't carry. Thanks anyway.

Yeah I use somet.hing like that for my Xbox connecting to a Mits 55413.

Ok i went ahead and picked up the Mitsubishi WS-73909 for the incredible low price of free . Here is the run down on the condition......

#1 Diamond protective screen is really scratched up. I dont mid because i will just take it off.

#2 the set is like a dust bowl. dust everywhere looks like it never has been cleaned.

#3 Mylar mirror is real dusty, i can see the layer of dust on it without using a flash light. What would be the best way to clean this?

#4 I ran the code and it blinked a code 22. Two blinks, pause two fast blinks. So i guess this is code 22 ?

I went and too the DM module out. The shell said WS-65909 and not 73909, did theses both use the same DM module? Upon looking at the 7 caps i do not see any visible bulging but 3 of the caps look to be a different brand but the board looks like it was never worked on.

I also saw no evidence of coolant leaks, the drip rail below the crts was dry and did not look like any visible coolant residue.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...0426-00088.jpg



Do the caps look like they have been replaced? i am going to go by radio shack and pick up 7 new ones and pop them in.

Thank you

My guess is that (if it's anything like the ones in our local videogame shop) it is just a regular old component cable for the PlayStation 3 that connects to the Sony proprietary port (the same video multi out port they've been using since the original PlayStation) rather then the HDMi port on the unit. They use component cables instore on the LCD display televisions and it looks fantastic.

- 2 Bunny

Welcome to HDMI handshaking issues. The install probably interrupts the output, which then needs to be reestablished. There's nothing wrong with your setup and probably not much you can do about it besides off/on of the offending component.

OK quick question...

Looking at the service manual it says that a code 22 = "Short Protect"
Also it says after the initial 70 seconds after intial power up that the DM μPC is booting up and is "normal". Once i try to turn the tv on, the light goes green for a few seconds then it turns off. Where should i start to look at? Could there still be a dm power problem?

From further reading the manual it looks like it is a convergance chip and possible pico fuse problem. I am going to look at the pico fuses at F9A04 and F9A05 on the board. I may order a IC chip. Also does radio shack carry pico fuses?

Thank you

Yes they make PS3 component cables, just like they do with HDMI and composite. They just don't come with the systems.

This is the correct cable for using component out from your PS3. The end you are looking at is not DVI or HDMI on that cable. It is for a proprietary video output port on the back of the PS3.

I did a good bit of research to find those mirror sites, and I think at least one of them will pay off. All you have to do is pick up the phone, and you'll know in a couple of minutes......

I mean, it's not like taking a trip through the Looking Glass, Bob.

Just a quick update...

I checked both pico fuses at F9A04 & F9A05, both are open. I get no beep when i check them for continuity with the digital multimeter. So it looks like i will need to replace those as well as the IC chip or can i just replace the two pico fuses?

Thank you

Good day Everyone!

Ok, here's the story, I've been a long time owner of the 57F59a since 2006 -- however, due to my ignorance on how to maintain these babies I had left it on factory settings and you know what that caused -- BURNS! And thank God to this thread I realized how I would next time maintain a great set like this! Well lo and behold -- I snagged a used but one in mint condition 57F59a!! It even comes with the original warranty (till the end of this year) with Brick! And it is completely BURN-free! (it was kept at med to low contrast by original owner) This set is like new -- unbelievable. This is redemption for me. As you have guessed I am now babying this set. So, I would like advice/comments from you experts on my current contrast and brightness settings to curb any potential future burn-ins -- currently this is what they are:

For hdmi input (blu ray) --> contrast: 38 , brightness: 68

Wii gaming --> contrast: 0 to 28 (zero contrast when my kids play it) , brightness: 68

cable (analog, non-hd) --> contrast: 28 , brightness: 68

Do you think they are safe enough settings to stave off any future burn-ins?

Thanks!
A

First, congrats, and welcome aboard.
Second, where've you been?! We've been here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=790702
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=687477
service manual:
http://elektrotanya.com/hitachi_57f5.../download.html
At the very least, call Bob and have him walk you through a lens and mirror cleaning.
You may want to experiment on the old one first!
Michael

I was going to order one STK393-110 and a few of the pico fuses and replace them. Do mean in your above statement to not only replace the pico fuses? I am going to replace both of them and the IC. I have checked a few sites and they list the cheap chinese made ones, i am a bit hesitant using them because of what i have read. Also what is the best way to take the circuit board out of the chassis? I see that there are 2 ribbon type connectors on both sides that connect it to each of the other boards in the chassis. How do those come apart?

Thank you

That's a hell of a difficult car day you had, Bob. But the negative with the Saab turns out to be a positive because you haven't, I take it, purchased the car.

I had a bit of good carma, recently, helping a friend buy an immaculate 2005 VW Passat. Beautiful car, as long as you remember to regularly change its synthetic oil.