Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 359

This set has Never ever been worked on since the day I bought it brand new. It came from the factory that way. Besides, its to late to cancel because I just took delivery from UPS lol... They got here really fast which is awesome. Now I just need thermal paste.

Hey, Bob.

I'm glad you migrated over to the other thread, Flat Panel General & New FP Tech. Your insight is most beneficial on that thread.

As you're in touch with Moome, I'm wondering if you could ask him about his new product:
http://moomecrtpj.blogspot.com/

The notice is ambiguous with regard to whether this would enable the hitherto-thought-impossible... 3-D on rear projector televisions (hopefully 480p or 1080i). If it would work, it would apparently work on sets with RGB inputs, such as the 65813 and 65815.

Thanks

I soldered those IC's in today and got it up and running. Something is off though... When I go to the 117 point manual convergence screen and I cycle through the red and blue, when the cursor is red its fine, when its blue its not blue, more or a teal color. Also when I went into the DCAM mode and did all the adjustments. When I did the exiting after I wrote to the Rom, it initializes the magic focus and about half way through it schews the green Way out on the right hand side then fails out with the words "OVER FLOW!" displayed on the screen. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

DON'T INITIALIZE MAGIC FOCUS. EVER!
All it will do is hose the results you just painstakingly saved to rom. The lesson here is to do the convergence one small step at a time, saving as you go, each time getting closer to perfect.
And NEVER use magic focus.

below is directly from the service manual, see number 11. If number 11 is NOT done at the completion of a manual service convergence, Magic focus will malfuction with a "static mode" error.

2.12.5 Convergence point adjustment
Adjustment preparation
(1) Select color to adjust.
INFO - Green
0 - Red
ANT - Blue
(2) Use 4, 6, 2, and 5 to move the cursor position
(dotted lines).
(3) Use thumb stick to move the convergence point.
(4) Three adjustment modes are available:
1. (3x3) Press INFO 5 times (only works
when DCU is in uncorrected state)
2. (7x5) Press 0 5 times
3. (13x9) Press ANT 5 times
For touch-up, only the (13x9) mode is necessary.
This will adjust every cross-hatch intersection point
on the screen.
For complete adjustment, start with (3x3) mode. This
will adjust center point and eight edge points only,
but will greatly reduce adjustment time. Then use
(7x5) mode, and finally (13x9) mode to finish
convergence.
If S distortion appears between cross-hatch
lines repeat (7x5) mode to change calculation
process while adjusting to remove distortion,
then return to (13x9) mode to finish touch-up
convergence.
Adjustment procedure
(1) Receive any NTSC signal.
(2) Start adjustment at the center of the screen.
(3) Continue adjustment at next closest position.
(4) Adjust center area first, ending with edge sections.
(5) Press INFO button to perform calculation operation.
This process will take about 1 second and no picture
will be seen at this time.
(6) After interpolation, check convergence again and
repeat (1)-(5) if necessary.
(7) When convergence is acceptable, press PIP MODE
to write data to ROM memory. ROM WRITE? is
displayed to alarm system that ROM will be
overwritten with new data. Press the PIP MODE
button again to write displayed data to ROM.
(8) DATA WRITE TO ROM will take approximately 4
seconds and no picture will be displayed.
(9) Green dots will be displayed when operation is
completed.
(10) Press MUTE to return to convergence pattern, then
confirm again convergence is acceptable.
(11) Press PIP MODE (ROM WRITE) mode, then press
PIP CH to initialize sensor data positions.
Notes: (1) Display only green for easier adjustment and
match to jig screen. Press MENU, THEN
PRESS INFO.
(2) Perform interpolation and data write to ROM
after green adjustment. Once green has been
confirmed to match jig screen, the jig screen can
be removed. Do not readjust the green color
after jig screen has been removed. This is now
your reference color.
(3) Display green and red only and match red to
green.
(4) Display all colors and match blue to green and
red. Touch-up red color if necessary.
(5) Existing DATA in ROM can be read by pressing
the SWAP button 2 times. This data can be used
after replacing a component (CRT, DY, etc.)
Where complete convergence adjustment is not
necessary, be careful not to overwrite this data.
DO NOT write cleared RAM data into ROM or a
complete convergence adjustment will be
necessary. Remember to try MAGIC FOCUS
before starting convergence adjustment to
minimize adjustment time.
(6) To confirm and fine tune the convergence at the
edge of the screen, press the PIP CH button on
the remote control while in the digital
convergence adjustment mode (DCAM) for
additional lines at the edge of the screen. Fine
tune the edge convergence as necessary. To
exit, press PIP CH again.

so after reading the service manual very closely, I found the section for error codes relating to the magic focus. according to this I have a a bad resistor/s. It shows 6 different resistors to check. Hope I can buy them somewhere lol

Second this!
I haven't used magic focus in years. Just touch up manually if needed, as a matter of fact, I have all the sensors for it covered with tape.

Don't need it, you can adjust 1,000,000 times better manually than using MF.

But once you do the manual convergence the magic focus uses/follows the service convergence as a template so its only going to improve upon the service convergence. Without initializing magic focus at the end of the service menu convergence, the process isn't complete. If I hadn't initialized it, I wouldn't have known I had several bad resisters. When it failed out with that OVER FLOW error the service manual pointed me exactly where to look.

I don't know if starting with brand new IC would make a difference or not, but I believe that you finish with the MF so the new positioning of the grids in relation to the sensor is stored so when you use MF again has the new grid positioning. If you never use MF again then it really doesn't matter.

Now as far as the bad resistors go... if they have an impact on the PQ or the overall lifespan of the set then I'm with you, if it only has to do with making MF work... then I would say you don't need it don't ever use MF again.

Maybe Bob can answer if the resistors really need to be changed.

Also, forgot to add; whenever I go into DCAM and do any adjustments there, I just write to ROM and exit. I never end with MF as the manual suggest. I know that many Hitachi owners have mentioned that they need to write to ROM several times before sticks. I have never experience this on my set... it takes the first time to write to ROM, however as Michael suggest I save the grid many times as work progresses before I'm completely done and exit DCAM.

Something is not right, when I changed the IC's the color seems off now. It's really noticeable when I go to the user menu, it has a teal tint now its weird... Everything else is fine there. When I go to the user menu convergence and pull up the 117 point grid, red is red but blue is teal-ish. If I separate the red, green and blue from each other at one of the points they look good. But all of that is the least of my problems now... I changed the resistors the service manual said too and now my convergence is f*$ken HORRIBLE! It's all bowed, the corners look like they are bending in nothing lines up at all now.

So I soldered in all the original resistors back in and my convergence went back to normal x.x
I don't understand why that's happening though as they are exactly the same watt and ohm. That color is still off too, ill post a picture later so you can see what I'm talking about.

I will be moving in about a month, and my beautifully maintained Pioneer Elite Pro-610HD will not be moving with me.

Do you guys think there's still anyone who might want this unit? It would give me nice warm fuzzy feelings to pass it along to someone who could make some use of it, whether for viewing or for parts. I have all the manuals and accessories, and also have an HDFury2 which makes it HDMI-capable.

AVS frowns on turning these forums into "swap meets," but the AVS Classified section is currently down, so I can't put the TV up for grabs that way. So if you know of anyone with an interest, please just PM me and don't clog the thread. The TV is in the south San Francisco Bay Area.

I appreciate the offer and ill hit ya up if I need it. Something is amiss with this set. I thought the same thing as u about hitting a land mine. Until I changed these IC chips, there was no problem with the color, even when the one IC went out. I know the convergence won't affect the colors like that but something weird happened... I replaced both factory ICs and the color problem went away x.x
The overflow fault went away also. Obviously the green guns convergence was screwed up from the bad IC but all those other issues went away. I'm almost starting to think I received bad ICs maybe. Either way, I'll get it worked out.

no, I have the original ICs back in to test if the color went back to normal (which it did). the green convergence looks like the first picture I posted when that IC went out. gonna order a new IC, think i may have recieved a bad one.

Greetings,

I have a a toshiba 57H93 that has a loud click and a simultaneous screen flash. It has been suggessted that this may be the flyback transformer. Can anyone help me with repair options?

Thanks

here's those pictures I was telling you about.


first, ignore that the blue looks out of focus, my camera makes it look that way. in this picture you can see that I have the blue cursor for the convergence. Its hard to see it but the cursor is teal now and not blue.




the teal color shows up a lot more in this picture. Notice you also see a green cursor, Thats not suppose to be there, thats why the blue cusor looks teal. this is the 117 User convergence screen, No green cursor is availible for the user menu.




this picture Really shows the problem, Every word in that picture is suppose to only Green.

Getting rid of our old trusty Panasonic PT47WX53.
Should I even attempt to sell it off craigslist or something like that?
Anyone looking for one in the Houston area. It's in pretty good shape and was ran with proper brightness/contrast levels all its life.

CFC

I didn't unplug anything, I just took the slack wires out of the clips that hold them. I un-screwed the plastic base the holds all three boards and flipped it to get to the bottom of the convergence board. As far as the blue goes, that's 100% my camera, when I look at the screen its black and I don't see what looks like an out of focus hazy blue.