Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 363

Originally Posted by Mik James

Yeah i'm actually using orange thread and tape I thought about using string but i wasn't sure if i could get it straight enough with tape. The thread method isn't perfect though as they sometimes disapear from view and it took a couple hours to tape all the threads on. I figured they might sell the grids somewhere though. I'd pay for a decent grid cause my measurements can only get so accurate, probably +-2mm

Originally Posted by Hockeytown Fan

I guess "afraid" might have been the wrong word, I've just read in this tread multiple times and it was Strongly suggested that touching those screen adjustments is pretty much the worse thing you could do and your screwed if you do. I mean, if they don't need it, of course don't touch them. Adjusting it wont be the end of your TV though.

As far as the geometry goes, you wont find that in the service menu, thats the DCAM. To access this you need to have your magic focus in auto.

Manual Convergence for the Hitachi
1) Receive an NTSC signal.
2) Press Magic Focus to begin magic focus
3) Press magic focus again during the magic focus process to get the "stop" screen
4) While stop screen is up, press STATUS or INFO on the remote control (R/C) to bring you to DCAM mode and
the service grid
5) When you first get in here, I believe red is the selected color by default (it is flashing).
6) To choose other colors to converge, use the following buttons on the R/C:
a) "STATUS" - Green
b) "0" - Red
c) "ANT" - Blue
7) Start from the center of the screen and work your way out on one color at a time. I adjusted red across the
whole screen to match green. Then I switched to blue, and adjusted that to green as well. After you adjust blue, you
may want to go back and adjust some red again, until the convergence looks good.
(a) Use 4, 6, 2, and 5 on the R/C to move the cursor position(dotted lines).
(b) Use thumb stick to move the convergence point color.
8 ) I did not adjust the green at all. I use the green as the guide and did not adjust the location of any green point.
This is highly suggested unless you have geometry problems, Which you do.
9) When going along the lines and adjusting, you may run into the problem of getting an "S" curve on the line.
You'll know if you get there. Basically, no matter what you do to adjust the line to be converged, the middle of the
line between the points will not straighten out (it bends between the points). To fix this, the manual recommends
going to the (7x5) mode which gives you less points to adjust. I had this problem, and the solution worked. There is
also another mode (3x3) which gives you even less points. Basically, if the set looks good, you only fine tune it in
(13x9) mode. If you have serious problems, the grids work as:
3x3 - "coarse"
7x5 - "medium"
13x9 - "fine"
10) To get to each of these patterns use the following on the R/C: (only if you need to)
1. (3x3) Press "STATUS" 5 times (only works when DCU is in uncorrected state)
2. (7x5) Press "0" 5 times
3. (13x9) Press "ANT" 5 times

Note: The grid size doesn't change, but the cursor "skips" a line.

11) If you adjust the 3x3, then you should go to the 7x5, and then the 13x9. depending on where
you start, work your way up, and always finish on the 13x9
12) When finishing up the 13x9 mode, to get additional grids on the edges of the screen, press the PIP CH button
on the remote control while in the digital convergence adjustment mode (DCAM). Fine tune the edge convergence
as necessary. To exit, press PIP CH again.
13) When convergence is acceptable, press PIP MODE to write data to ROM memory. ROM WRITE? is displayed
to alarm system that ROM will be overwritten with new data. Press the PIP MODE button again to write
displayed data to ROM.
14) DATA WRITE TO ROM will take approximately 4 seconds and no picture will be displayed.
15) Green dots will be displayed when operation is completed.
WARNING: YOU MUST DO THE FOLLOWING STEPS TO COMPLETE MAGIC FOCUS
INITIALIZATION!!! THERE HAVE BEEN MANY POSTS THAT PEOPLE HAVE HAD PROBLEMS
WITHOUT DOING THIS STEP BECAUSE THEY LOOSE MAGIC FOCUS!
16) Press MUTE to return to convergence pattern, then confirm again convergence is acceptable.
17) Press PIP MODE and then PIP CH to initialize Magic Focus. The initialize operation starts and several
windows appear during this operation. It takes about 30 seconds or less.
18 ) When green dots appear, initialize operation is finished.
19) Turn power OFF.
21) Wait a few seconds. Turn the TV on, and you should have your normal signal. Press Magic Focus button just
to make sure the magic focus still works (and that you did the last few steps properly)



If your TV does not have a magic focus feature or if you still can't get into DCAM using the method described above try this procedure. On some hitachi TV sets there is a small light blue button located on the front of the convergence board. This is the side that faces the front of the TV. Its very hard to see from the BACK of the TV. Remove the front panel of the TV to access the button. With the TV powered on press and hold the button until you see the convergence grid appear. Button is on the convergence board facing the front of theTV.

Again, Hope this helps ya.

Originally Posted by Mik James

It basically gives you the convergence screen except you can also adjust the green gun.

Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast


Then the usual suggestion is to adjust the green to the grid, then remove the grid, and adjust the red and blue to the green.

Originally Posted by 2 Bunny

That sounds really useful. Is there a way to do that in Mitsubishi RP sets?

- 2B

Originally Posted by Mik James

I think bunny was asking what the procedure is to bring up the grid on a Mitsubishi set not whether or not it's possible.
Anyone out there with a mits that knows the key presses to get to the menu?

Also does anyone know whether or not internal lenses are sealed off in hitachi sets?
My set is 10 years old and I'm debating whether or not I should clean the deeper lenses.

Originally Posted by Mik James

Well that isn't what I wAnted to hear
So what screws do I use to avoid spilling the coolant, the 4 right at the bottom of the circular casing?

Originally Posted by Mik James

Take your time man I'm working on getting my thread grid accurate to within half a millimeter do I wont get to the lenses until at least tommorow.

Originally Posted by Mik James

I found a free copy of the service manual online, I'm basing the thread grid off of those measurements. I've heard of people doing two things to get rid of over scan, the shimming mod or compressing the geometry grid to a smaller space. I know that the shimming mod gives a little more detail to the picture but does compressing the grid have any effect on detail? I don't have to get rid of any over scan cause I can set custom resolutions on the computer but if I would get more detail out of it then it might be something to look into.

Originally Posted by vcrpro3

I do believe that i have decided to dump my CRT/RPTV......................

Originally Posted by ambesolman

Seems my Sony 34" trinitron CRT has lost its green. All is blue and smurfy on component inputs. Composite is fine. Any ballpark figures on a repair?

Originally Posted by bweissman

Remember this thread began in 2006...........

Originally Posted by Hockeytown Fan

ran it down to about 4% over scan on all 4 sides. Any less than that and I started to run into geometry issues and magic focus errors. Honestly, that shimming idea sounds AWESOME but after really thinking about it, Thats a LOT of work for a 1 or 2 % more of a picture. Maybe if I were bored and needed a project to occupy my time I would do it I suppose.

If only I could get it as good as my Front Projector lol... 0% overscan! Thats a 120 Inch screen.

Originally Posted by Jetmeck

My thoughts exactly on my Pioneer. I have cranked it down as low as it can go over scan wise through the service menu. Got some slight bending when the Dish guide is up but without that straight line as a reference the pic looks outstanding to me. The shimming mod is the way to go if you have to have perfection but simply not worth it to me in my application..............

Originally Posted by Mik James

Has it ever been proven that adjusting geometry using the service menu or dcam improves detail or takes away detail due to scan line overlap?

Originally Posted by Hockeytown Fan

any luck with that SLR camera? i'm still pretty interested! If I had something to trade ya, maybe you need two pair of samsung 3D glasses?

Originally Posted by bweissman

Nah, I only have one pair of eyes. Sorry, ye olde SLR film camera was taken. So was ye olde RPTV - just today. I am now analog-free at last.

Originally Posted by Mr Bob

I have an even better and bigger deal for you. My year 2000 65" Panasonic CRT is available and is fully cleaned and calibrated. It also does 720p native, just like it does 1080i native, each one separate from the other, and it is rumored that since it can do 720p that it can also do 3D.

HDMI is only necessary if you want to upconvert your old regular SD DVD library to 1080i/p. Other than that, component 1080i looks every bit as good as the HDMI version if not better, since HDMI is just one more way to step on an otherwise perfect signal. And HDMI can be added to older sets via the HD Fury.

Calibrator owned, calibrator used and calibrator maintained.

Contact me, you're not all that far away.

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