I don't like to take up the space on the thread here that always doing that requires. Used to, decided not to some time ago.
Here's what was in the email I was sent by AVS. If Forum Stomper had some reason to delete it, I'll be glad to do so here in my post upon request from him.
ForumStumper replied to this thread on September 12, 6:00 pm
Originally Posted by reds75
mitshubishi ws48311 for sale near me. Any comments good or bad on this set. They are asking 125$ . Thanks for any info.
I've got it. Its only downside is the weight and physical size and small screensize. Ours was pretty busted up when we got it. While it was advertised as "working", the remote and screenshield were nowhere to be found, and the screen was cut in multiple places and had a quarter stuck inbetween the layers. On top of that, its convergence ICs had failed and it had been run pretty hard (torchmode) for a number of hours before I got it. I was able to get the quarter out and replace the ICs, but the sheer number of hours this thing's had has blurred things over time, so it's a little hard to read sometimes, but usually only inside of Windows and its small controls. I can use the Windows Magnifier tool to get around that though, and live HDTV still looks great.
In the end, it really all boils down to hours (which the set doesn't count); just see if you can fire it up before you get it and get it running for a little while, and try to put a Windows desktop up on there, then play a video, and you'll get a pretty good bearing from that.
Originally Posted by |Tch0rT|
If that's off an HTPC it's very easy to get 0% overscan. Just change some settings in the video card control panel.
On mine, I actually have to cut it off a tiny bit because the whole set has a slight horizontal shift, and I haven't been able to find software to counteract this.
Originally Posted by Mr Bob
I know of no setting in Mit User for altering SVM, tho in my Mit calibrations I always change their factory setting for VM from 2 to 1 in service menu. I always run my User Sharpness at its midpoint, to stay as linear as possible and to keep it as out of the equation as much as possible. Yours may be eligible for CraigR's anti-ee mod, if you want some coaching on that privately from me. Did it on mine and am very happy now with my set's crispness and absence of false edging. When combined with other advanced mods I have done, it allows me to sit 9' back from my 73" display, causing some observers to say I have my "own private IMAX".
Really? Mine has an option for "SVM Sharpness" right in the user menu. Is that not the same thing?
Originally Posted by Mr Bob
Most likely. Mine is not ID'd like that, and I never pay much attention to the user controls and how they are labeled during a cal, other than to keep them centered and thus null-pointed. My job on a calibration is to dial it all in so that all you have to do is centerpoint most settings, fine tune the rest and it will be the ideal picture for most video content.
For Sharpness, whether SVM or not, midpoint is usually the point where the least amount of interference with the picture occurs, seeing as how below midpoint the picture is usually simply blurred up variably to hide graininess and bad reception, while over midpoint is usually variable false edging, called edge enhancement.
For some older displays like the original Advent the Detail control used to be totally video blurring, in which case the owner's manual stated to run that control all the way up, and I definitely agreed.
Don't just blindly follow all advice out there. Some advice from even highly respected test discs is to use NO Sharpness - which sounds like it means run it all the way down at all times, totally mulching up your crispness and putting a governor/filter on your sets true high resolution potential??? - and I find advice like that to be very ill-informed to the point of being totally misinformed, if you just blindly follow it without testing it out and finding that maybe the author of that disc simply meant to run Sharpness at its midpoint rather than any too much higher than that.
Yup. For me, "VSM Sharpness" is just either "on" or "off", and it looks much much better off (which is default if I remember correctly). Regular sharpness depends on resolution. For 480p, the red is always very very sharp, so I turn it down a bit (not so much on the standard def tuner), but in high def, it's so blurry (looking at the Windows Desktop) that I turn it all the way up. I always leave "VSM" off though.
Again if I am stepping on Forum Stumper's toes, I apologize and will delete this repeat of his posts upon his request. Perhaps he had some reason for making them disappear. If so I will honor it. Didn't seem like they needed deleting, but I am just an observer...