Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 375

I sympathize. I had been meaning for weeks to do a balance transfer offer that would allow me 0% APR for 18 months on $5000, been coached to do it for weeks and weeks by my bookkeeper. I had work yesterday so went to finally go ahead and do it today only to find that it had expired yesterday, and since it was automated in the Discover Card computer system nothing could be done about it now, it was gone. My fault, I didn't set up a reminder to myself to keep me on the path. Now I have to keep paying that God-awful high interest rate from now on without any respite after all. At least you can blame the accident...

Aarrgghh!



b
Edited by Mr Bob - 9/11/12 at 3:53pm

You stole that puppy! Back when new, they ran pretty much in the $2000 bracket. $75 on a well treated Mit 48" is a gangbusters deal, esp. if it has been run on proper lowered contrast and has no screenburn.

29 on Brightness may be ideal for your set - probably is, as 31 is the midpoint. Special considerations have to be obeyed on where to set your Brightness on any display, but 46 on Contrast is WAY up there on a Mit. Way too high. They slew their bar graph, it is not linear, meaning that midpoint of 31 is already 80-90% up to full blast of 63. Ideal videophile setting on a new Mit is around 35-40% up on the bar graph, to go higher only after years and years of use. I run my WS 73517 at 21 out of the 63 max, only going up to 26 or 31 occasionally in daytime or on dim material like Gray's Anatomy.

I know of no setting in Mit User for altering SVM, tho in my Mit calibrations I always change their factory setting for VM from 2 to 1 in service menu. I always run my User Sharpness at its midpoint, to stay as linear as possible and to keep it as out of the equation as much as possible. Yours may be eligible for CraigR's anti-ee mod, if you want some coaching on that privately from me. Did it on mine and am very happy now with my set's crispness and absence of false edging. When combined with other advanced mods I have done, it allows me to sit 9' back from my 73" display, causing some observers to say I have my "own private IMAX".

b

Most likely. Mine is not ID'd like that, and I never pay much attention to the user controls and how they are labeled during a cal, other than to keep them centered and thus null-pointed. My job on a calibration is to dial it all in so that all you have to do is centerpoint most settings, fine tune the rest and it will be the ideal picture for most video content.

For Sharpness, whether SVM or not, midpoint is usually the point where the least amount of interference with the picture occurs, seeing as how below midpoint the picture is usually simply blurred up variably to hide graininess and bad reception, while over midpoint is usually variable false edging, called edge enhancement.

For some older displays like the original Advent the Detail control used to be totally video blurring, in which case the owner's manual stated to run that control all the way up, and I definitely agreed.

Don't just blindly follow all advice out there. Some advice from even highly respected test discs is to use NO Sharpness - which sounds like it means run it all the way down at all times, totally mulching up your crispness and putting a governor/filter on your sets true high resolution potential??? - and I find advice like that to be very ill-informed to the point of being totally misinformed, if you just blindly follow it without testing it out and finding that maybe the author of that disc simply meant to run Sharpness at its midpoint rather than any too much higher than that.

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 9/13/12 at 12:07pm

Hm. Last post was to Forum Stumper, whose post I was answering seems to have disappeared, along with the new post from him that my email just advised me of, which is not here either...



b

I don't like to take up the space on the thread here that always doing that requires. Used to, decided not to some time ago.

Here's what was in the email I was sent by AVS. If Forum Stomper had some reason to delete it, I'll be glad to do so here in my post upon request from him.



ForumStumper replied to this thread on September 12, 6:00 pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by reds75

mitshubishi ws48311 for sale near me. Any comments good or bad on this set. They are asking 125$ . Thanks for any info.

I've got it. Its only downside is the weight and physical size and small screensize. Ours was pretty busted up when we got it. While it was advertised as "working", the remote and screenshield were nowhere to be found, and the screen was cut in multiple places and had a quarter stuck inbetween the layers. On top of that, its convergence ICs had failed and it had been run pretty hard (torchmode) for a number of hours before I got it. I was able to get the quarter out and replace the ICs, but the sheer number of hours this thing's had has blurred things over time, so it's a little hard to read sometimes, but usually only inside of Windows and its small controls. I can use the Windows Magnifier tool to get around that though, and live HDTV still looks great.

In the end, it really all boils down to hours (which the set doesn't count); just see if you can fire it up before you get it and get it running for a little while, and try to put a Windows desktop up on there, then play a video, and you'll get a pretty good bearing from that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by |Tch0rT|

If that's off an HTPC it's very easy to get 0% overscan. Just change some settings in the video card control panel.

On mine, I actually have to cut it off a tiny bit because the whole set has a slight horizontal shift, and I haven't been able to find software to counteract this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob

I know of no setting in Mit User for altering SVM, tho in my Mit calibrations I always change their factory setting for VM from 2 to 1 in service menu. I always run my User Sharpness at its midpoint, to stay as linear as possible and to keep it as out of the equation as much as possible. Yours may be eligible for CraigR's anti-ee mod, if you want some coaching on that privately from me. Did it on mine and am very happy now with my set's crispness and absence of false edging. When combined with other advanced mods I have done, it allows me to sit 9' back from my 73" display, causing some observers to say I have my "own private IMAX".

b

Really? Mine has an option for "SVM Sharpness" right in the user menu. Is that not the same thing?


ForumStumper.



Originally Posted by Mr Bob

Most likely. Mine is not ID'd like that, and I never pay much attention to the user controls and how they are labeled during a cal, other than to keep them centered and thus null-pointed. My job on a calibration is to dial it all in so that all you have to do is centerpoint most settings, fine tune the rest and it will be the ideal picture for most video content.

For Sharpness, whether SVM or not, midpoint is usually the point where the least amount of interference with the picture occurs, seeing as how below midpoint the picture is usually simply blurred up variably to hide graininess and bad reception, while over midpoint is usually variable false edging, called edge enhancement.

For some older displays like the original Advent the Detail control used to be totally video blurring, in which case the owner's manual stated to run that control all the way up, and I definitely agreed.

Don't just blindly follow all advice out there. Some advice from even highly respected test discs is to use NO Sharpness - which sounds like it means run it all the way down at all times, totally mulching up your crispness and putting a governor/filter on your sets true high resolution potential??? - and I find advice like that to be very ill-informed to the point of being totally misinformed, if you just blindly follow it without testing it out and finding that maybe the author of that disc simply meant to run Sharpness at its midpoint rather than any too much higher than that.

b

Yup. For me, "VSM Sharpness" is just either "on" or "off", and it looks much much better off (which is default if I remember correctly). Regular sharpness depends on resolution. For 480p, the red is always very very sharp, so I turn it down a bit (not so much on the standard def tuner), but in high def, it's so blurry (looking at the Windows Desktop) that I turn it all the way up. I always leave "VSM" off though.


ForumStumper.





Again if I am stepping on Forum Stumper's toes, I apologize and will delete this repeat of his posts upon his request. Perhaps he had some reason for making them disappear. If so I will honor it. Didn't seem like they needed deleting, but I am just an observer...

b

For the nominal fee I charge to be on the phone with you, you might be surprised at how little you'd actually pay me to get to the bottom of this. I have had extensive experience with these sets and troubleshoot them all over the country all the time over the phone. Runco has been providing phone troubleshooting for years, it's one of the things that has put them at the top of the heap and generated Runco's being sold to Planar for $34 million a few years ago. Making Sam Runco, who was kept on as chief adviser for another 2 years, a very happy man...

Contact me. If you want to see what I typically do for sets like this, observe the thread that deals with the original intermittencies problems the 510/610/710 series had - and the first half of the 520/620/720 series - here on the AVS. It's called Pioneer Elite PRO-510 Problem, and hit 95 pages recently.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/402397/pioneer-elite-pro-510-problem/2820#post_22436483

If you have a Pioneer Elite CRT set from this vintage want to see what your set is capable of with the proper care and feeding, go to page 45 of that thread to see the final results of sets I did in Minneapolis (counts to there faster if I start at page 1). I took screenshots of HD freezeframes on them.

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 9/30/12 at 8:55am

Their HDready line started in 1999, with the series ending in 03. The following year the model number series was ending in 05. Then 07, 08 and 09 - (even an 819 in there somewhere, that was a confusing year), then ending in 11, 13, 15 and 17, year by year as the years progressed.

Mine was the last model year they built them, the WS 73517. Save with Glen's 55517, both ending in 517, which was their final model year for CRT.

b

Yup



b

Again my heart goes out to you. If you had heard about me before, chances are this never would have happened.

I have been manning the thread that covers this for more than 7 years now, and have dozens and dozens and dozens and dozens of big screens whose owners contacted me to save them and I have saved them. Literally tons of these big screens have been saved from the landfills of the country due to my personal efforts on location with the units and the feedback from owners that has occurred on this thread over the last 7 years.

I know Pioneer has been shall we say less than helpful in this situation. I have personally resoldered many of their rebuilt boards when they went out again later, and have personally guaranteed them for life after that just like I do with all Pioneer PS boards of this series that I resolder.

Bottom line is if you study that thread from the day I joined it 7 years ago to now, you will see that there is a very simple resolution to this whole situation. And I have kept that thread updated with the newest, freshest information over and over and over again over the years.

I'm sure that if you had had me on the case back then, before all those others had gotten in there and screwed things up, your situation would have turned out far differently.

Can't blame you, the information I have just wasn't out there easily for you to get, especially from Pioneer. The Pioneer Elite PRO 510 Problem thread is the only thread I know of where you can actually get it, aside from contacting me directly. Luckily these days Google searches have been turning up with it regularly, but that was not always the case.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/402397/pioneer-elite-pro-510-problem/2820#post_22436483

Hopefully others will contact me before they get to the position you finally wound up in.

Yours very truly

Mr Bob
Edited by Mr Bob - 10/1/12 at 7:36am

A while ago I took in a 34" Sony 960 series HD CRT directview that is supposed to have some sort of problem, and I have not had the time to deal with it. If someone wants this set once it's going again, I would be OK on parting with it for a reasonable price.

IMHO it's not important to have an HD tuner in these sets, as very few people use OTA only for their viewing, which from what I've heard is all that built-in HD tuners are usually capable of discriminating unless their HD tuner is ready for a Cable Card. Most people have cable or satellite, some have DVHS, and pay channels like HBO and Showtime never come in from OTA. My set will take in anything that has a component output, including HD Fury transcoders for sources with HDMI-only on the HD content, once the Fury has transformed the HDMI to component.

6volt - I am not up on Aperture Grill tech vs. Trinitron screen tech. Would you please elaborate, and does my Sony have the better one or the worse one? I am assuming it has the Trinitron tube since it's a Sony, and have never heard bad things about the Trinitron tube.

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 10/1/12 at 7:51am