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Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 378

post #11311 of 12296
Thread Starter 
Oh. Shoulda said "the Portland side of Los Angeles"...

smile.gif

b
post #11312 of 12296
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

They make no secret of how it works; there's white paper here:

http://darbeevision.com/assets/documents/DarbeeVision%20Whitepaper%20with%20Tech%20Details%2020120415.pdf

And, of course, the whole forum here:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1399154/darbee-vision-darblet/4170#post_22483844

I think it's on my list for the holidays.

Michael

My 73" Mits already has this. It's called "DefinEdge VSM". It also has "AMVP" and MicroFine CRTs among other things. So I have been watching this type picture since I got it- 8 years ago. Just some of the reasons why it is still the best TV I've ever seen.

DefinEdge.jpg 1016k .jpg file AMVP.jpg 1007k .jpg file
Edited by Bill - 10/14/12 at 6:04pm
post #11313 of 12296
Are you saying that these features in the later Mits CRT RPTVs are the same exact technologies as in the Darblet?

It appears that DefinEdge has to do with scanning line modulation, rather than adjustments in luminance.
Edited by taichi4 - 10/14/12 at 6:33pm
post #11314 of 12296
No but the results look the same to me. Maybe the Mits is better because it works for everything I watch and doesn't need adjusting. There seems to be sharpening going on with the Dablet. Sharpness is a different setting on the Mits. There is more than just scan modulation. Did you read the description in the JPG? The only thing the Darblet does that I see is put black lines around edges and bump up the contrast- something that fools the eye into thinking it is seeing more resolution. You can really see it in the picture of the ruins. As far as contrast, CRTs are already the Bomb. I think a lot of CRT-RPTVs have scan modulation. Whether it is in the user menus to turn on or off is another story.
Edited by Bill - 10/14/12 at 8:58pm
post #11315 of 12296
Well, you're preaching to the converted as far as Mits CRT RPTVs. I've got a 65813 with 9 inch tubes, a first surface glass mirror, and a Nikkor glass primary focus lens. And it has the same two circuitry features that you mentioned.

I marvel at the TV every time I turn it on, even though I'll bet the set could use a cleaning.

As far as the JPEGs are concerned, they were a but dim and hard to read. But I think the Darblet does more than just add a black edge. It's adjustment of luminance I believe is a bit more subtle than that. rolleyes.gif
post #11316 of 12296
Yes, upped contrast as I stated.
post #11317 of 12296
My Panasonic PT-47X54 RPTV is developing a problem. It has been nigh perfect for over 7 years. But now I'm seeing some black crush, a definite loss of detail in dark areas. Started a week ago. I've up'ed the brightness a bit, as my CRTs have maybe close to 13,000 to 15,000 hours on them.

It's very disappointing. And very obvious. Can't see much of anything in dark areas of the screen.

I don't suppose there's much I can do about it. Thought I would post here just in case someone could suggest something.
post #11318 of 12296
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom_Bombadil View Post

My Panasonic PT-47X54 RPTV is developing a problem. It has been nigh perfect for over 7 years. But now I'm seeing some black crush, a definite loss of detail in dark areas. Started a week ago. I've up'ed the brightness a bit, as my CRTs have maybe close to 13,000 to 15,000 hours on them.

It's very disappointing. And very obvious. Can't see much of anything in dark areas of the screen.

I don't suppose there's much I can do about it. Thought I would post here just in case someone could suggest something.

when was the last time you cleaned the optics?

Sent from my A101IT using Tapatalk 2
post #11319 of 12296
It has been a while.

It could be that. But it would seem odd for this "black crush" to appear virtually overnight as a result of the optics getting dirty.

Last week, and always before that, I had good black detail. Now I have the brightness up 6 tics and have less detail than a week ago.
post #11320 of 12296
Thread Starter 
I don't know the answer to your query on just what you've stated, but this just came in by email from somebody who didn't sign his name:


"Hello,

I have a Hitachi 51GWX20B and I had a hazy/fuzzy picture. So, unknowingly, I cleaned the mirror with some napkins and glass cleaner and the three lens' the same way. Now I have an even blurrier picture and a yellow spot towards the middle of tv. "

Be careful out there. If you want to know how to do these things right, you know how to find me.


b
Edited by Mr Bob - 10/20/12 at 8:00am
post #11321 of 12296
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom_Bombadil View Post

It has been a while.
It could be that. But it would seem odd for this "black crush" to appear virtually overnight as a result of the optics getting dirty.
Last week, and always before that, I had good black detail. Now I have the brightness up 6 tics and have less detail than a week ago.

No you're right, optics take time to get that dirty. It doesn't happen overnight.

Sounds like what happens over time on the Pioneer CRTs, involving the energies getting to the guns. After 10 years of faithful service what feeds them no longer delivers what it should, requiring the user Black Levels to be cranked up to +12 to +15, sometimes all the way up to +18. Which slews off the grayscale and usually turns the blacks deep green. People wind up having part of their hair look green rather than crisp clear black, as it should. IF you can see the shadow detail at all, with the optics being so dirty by then that seeing shadow detail in the dark areas is darn near impossible without 10 of the 28 surfaces getting cleaned properly and becoming crystal clear again. At which point it looks like new again, with no shadow detail starvation at all from your eyes.

Your focus block may have a problem and need to be replaced and then realigned to get the correct energies to each gun. If not done right, your grayscale could wind up all over the map. That alignment is a definite process, and needs to be done correctly if done at all.

If all 3 guns are affected exactly the same, the problem most likely is not in any of them.


Let me know off board it you need my help on this. At your present state of awareness on these issues I would not recommend you do anything more on your own. Don't be a cowboy out there. These things are very delicate and many systems are highly interactive in there, and you could wind up altering something way off the beaten path without even knowing it. I have the year 2000 65" Panasonic CRT and can say this from experience.

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 10/20/12 at 8:03am
post #11322 of 12296
I have a Toshiba 57H83 that has been great for almost 10 years now. I posted in the owners thread about an issue about a year and a half ago where the screen suddenly looked like someone grabbed it in the center of the screen from behind and pulled it backward. The inner part of the screen was distorted inward and the outer edges of the picture were curved inward toward the center. I turned the tv off, turned it back on and the screen was normal. Only happened one time. Bob thought it might have been a power spike or brownout at the time. I keep my equipment on a surge protector and since I work for the power company know that we don't have any kind of grid instabilities in this area.

The other night my wife and I were watching tv and we heard a pop sound (almost sounded like an electrical arc) and the screen flickered off then back on at the same time. Again this only occured once as well. we have Directv and if you leave it paused long enough the paused show goes away and the all you have is a floating blue directv logo on a black background. until yesterday (first time that I noticed it) the logo was a nice blue color and now it is not as vibrant of a blue color with a greenish pink blotch on the corner that travels with the logo.

Any ideas on what I am seeing or experiencing? The electrical arc sound kind of worries me as I would rather not have the TV short out and start a fire or something.

Thanks for any help or thoughts you guys have on this.
post #11323 of 12296
Thread Starter 
If you have had an arc - which is what it sounds like - something is breaking down in your high voltage instruments and it's finding a path to ground. Sounds like your insulation is degrading in one of those components.

I am not going to venture any further thoughts by message board on something that may actually be a fire hazard. You should have someone in who is familiar with Toshibas and pay them whatever you need to, for competent service repair advice. And to look and see whether any evidence of the arc can be visually made out.

Until then you should unplug your set. Your passive power supply is not your high voltage system, but just on GP I would not keep your set plugged in when you're away from the house.

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 10/24/12 at 9:55am
post #11324 of 12296
I agree, Thats why even though I hate it I am starting the process of finding a new TV. If from what I have read on here is true and knowing what it is like trying to find parts and having to pay higher price because of how unavailable they are I really can't see spending the money to even have this TV looked at to be repaired. Unfortunately the wife isn't too keen on getting a replacement until this one completely kicks the bucket so to say.
post #11325 of 12296
Thread Starter 
It's not like something has Domino effected in there, affecting your entire system. 1 component will be affected and it will need to be replaced. Or maybe even less than that - maybe something simply recaulked, I have seen it before. Repair is still the most cost effective path.

High voltage components are generally very generic.

B
Edited by Mr Bob - 10/26/12 at 8:43am
post #11326 of 12296
Ok, I will check and see if Ican find anyone in the area that has any knowledge on this model TV. I highly doubt that I will put the money into fixing it though. Anything more than a couple hundred dollars and she will just want to go out and buy something shiny and new. haha

Bob, do you have any contacts out here in the Southeast (specifically South Carolina) that I could contact?

Thanks
post #11327 of 12296
Thread Starter 
Don't know about repair servicers, you'll have to look locally for that. But I have had inquiries from fellow owners from all over the country for calibrations and supertweaking of their CRT sets, there's probably someone from your area. Contact me directly and we'll talk about it -

b
post #11328 of 12296
I would just like to say my old Pioneer 53 inch CRT RPTV has outlasted the Sony XBR2 that replaced it. I gave the Pioneer to to the Mother in law, and it still looks sweet with a DVD while the XBR2 lays in parts in my basement.
post #11329 of 12296
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrock99 View Post

I would just like to say my old Pioneer 53 inch CRT RPTV has outlasted the Sony XBR2 that replaced it. I gave the Pioneer to to the Mother in law, and it still looks sweet with a DVD while the XBR2 lays in parts in my basement.


Is that a SD-533HD5
?????
post #11330 of 12296
Thread Starter 
Could be that or the SD 532 HD5, or the PRO 530, 520 or 510, all of which are 53" CRT sets. If it's really old it could be a non-HD set...

All of which need internal optics cleaning desperately by this age, which is really not old in CRT years, with 20 year service lives. After thorough internal optics cleaning they will all look sparkling and new again. But don't just happenstance it. Those optical surfaces are very delicate and easily scratched, which is instant and permanent damage.

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 10/30/12 at 12:56pm
post #11331 of 12296
SD 532 HD5, and convergence was still bang on when I last looked at it, it's a good old friend. I wish you could get the mitsubishi 73 inchers up here in canuk land, but you can't. I would seriously buy one of those, almost took the truck and trailer to Seattle to get one.
post #11332 of 12296
Mr. Bob, I hear you are the man to ask for help regarding CRT RPTVs. Our 55" Mitsubishi CRT projection TV, model WS-55315, no longer turns on after the power flickered during hurricane/tropical storm Sandy. It was off at the time and I don't think there was a surge - everything else in the house, including my computer which was on, is fine and the TV is surge projected. I walked downstairs to find the TV off with no power light (as normal), but it would not turn on with the remote or the button on the front. I unplugged it and then plugged it back in which caused the power light on the TV to light up, but there is no picture or sound. It does not respond to any input so pressing the power button won't turn the power light off and I can't read any codes. I pulled the access panels and the tubes are not lighting up at all nor do I hear a "click" or any sign of the TV coming on. All the fuses (normal & the numerous pico fuses tested in circuit) tested fine. I can't find any sign of bulging caps or burnt resistors/ICs/etc. Any ideas? I have a multimeter and an old analog oscilloscope if that's helpful.

Any help is most appreciated!
post #11333 of 12296
Thread Starter 
Sounds like your passive power supply is not responding at all except for that pilot light. Also sounds like your micro might be blown. Not likely since no other devices in your home blew, but these big screen power supplies are very sensitive to fluctuations in power coming into the house, possibly more so than other appliances in your home.

Check all passive voltages - the ones ending in S for Standby - and make sure they are all up. If it won't take any turn-on commands, from remote or from front panel buttons, the passive power supply and your micro are your main suspects. You can't even begin to test the HV, FBT or the convergence power supply fuses until you have turn-on activity/response.

Some passive activity is present for the light in front to be on, but several secondary voltage supplies come from the primary AC input, and one of those may be down, causing the micro to stay dead/un-powered up. I'm trusting you've gone inside to examine the DM Module and its potentially bulging caps. The caps that go bad don't always bulge tho.

Try replacing the 4 or 7 1000uF/16v caps with 680/25v ones, even if they are not bulged. Usually the light in front blinks incessantly if they need to be replaced, so that's probably not it, but it's something you might try JIC...


b
Edited by Mr Bob - 11/1/12 at 5:50pm
post #11334 of 12296
I have my 65813 (and my computer) plugged into Surge Protector/UPS units with line conditioner and voltage regulation, all because an electronic wizard friend of mine convinced me how sensitive many electronics are to voltage fluctuation. cool.gif
post #11335 of 12296
Thread Starter 
Cyrix 2K -

Does your surge protector have an insurance policy? The better ones do. Check it out, that would cover getting your display professionally serviced.

b
post #11336 of 12296
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Sounds like your passive power supply is not responding at all except for that pilot light. Also sounds like your micro might be blown. Not likely since no other devices in your home blew, but these big screen power supplies are very sensitive to fluctuations in power coming into the house, possibly more so than other appliances in your home.
Check all passive voltages - the ones ending in S for Standby - and make sure they are all up. If it won't take any turn-on commands, from remote or from front panel buttons, the passive power supply and your micro are your main suspects. You can't even begin to test the HV, FBT or the convergence power supply fuses until you have turn-on activity/response.
Some passive activity is present for the light in front to be on, but several secondary voltage supplies come from the primary AC input, and one of those may be down, causing the micro to stay dead/un-powered up. I'm trusting you've gone inside to examine the DM Module and its potentially bulging caps. The caps that go bad don't always bulge tho.
Try replacing the 4 or 7 1000uF/16v caps with 680/25v ones, even if they are not bulged. Usually the light in front blinks incessantly if they need to be replaced, so that's probably not it, but it's something you might try JIC...
b
Ok, I just checked the passive voltages and got the following:
5VS: 5.08V
10VS: 12.87V

The 10 volt line seems a bit high but is that enough to be a problem? What's the DM Module? I haven't gone inside of that, but I did look for bulging caps and didn't see anything obvious. I can poke around, but unless it's an extreme coincidence, I doubt they're at fault?

Thank you very much for your help!

:edit: I'm 99% sure I am not covered by my surge protector. It's a staples brand surge protector from 2005 :-/

Another question: I'm looking at the circuit diagram in the service manual. Are the red lines supposed to be active at all times, or just the ones that end in "S"?
Edited by Cyrix_2k - 11/1/12 at 9:17pm
post #11337 of 12296
Thread Starter 
I'd have to study the schematic. Contact me off board for that.

The bulging caps are in the DM Module, they are not outside and easily visible on the circuit boards that are easily seen. Contact me directly and I can help you with the troubleshooting on your set.

b
post #11338 of 12296
Mr. B

I was aimlessly looking over things tonight with no luck, all but gave up, and then flipped the power switch (on the surge protector) on/off a few times in row. Low and behold, the power led blinked a few times and then went off. I pressed the power button and the TV now works as though nothing happened??? I'm cautiously holding my breath, but I'm not going to ask any questions for now.

Thanks so much for your help!
post #11339 of 12296
If you never tried the TV plugged into anything other than your surge protector it may well be that the surge protector itself malfunctioned.

I would replace it with a UPS, Voltage Regulating surge protector, like a Cyberpower. They're about a hundred or a bit more, and will give you peace of mind.
post #11340 of 12296
I tried three outlets and two surge protectors, so I don't think that was it. I'll invest in a better surge protector though!
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