Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 380

Video Mute must be on. Turn it off, usually done in the User menu.

I would rather run my set indefinitely with a dim, moving picture on it than turn it off and on over and over and over again all day. Remember, fixed images are what causes screenburn. Average light level, moving pictures do not. Dim pictures age your guns less than Torch Mode settings.

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Or MSNBC

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When the new SciFi channel started carrying rather dark anyway Battlestar Galactica, their logo was 100% pure white, which of course would affect all 3 guns equally, and be equally destructive to each one. After the first episode that aired, I called around and found they were owned by NBC, so I called NBC. The guy I talked with there was less than receptive. So I asked "What kind of set do you have?" He rather smugly said "plasma". So I said "You're next." Silence... After about 30 seconds he said "How can I help? What can we do?"

He wound up giving me the number to their legal dept, and by the very next episode NBC had taken down the fully intense logo to half brightness, where it would not hurt anything.

No other channel has been nearly as co-operative...

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Edited by Mr Bob - 11/19/12 at 10:49pm

Sorry I'm tied up all day Saturday and Sunday, Let's try for Monday

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It's okay, I wasn't free tonight anyway. Tomorrow evening or early afternoon CA time might work.

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John, often after the cleaning process the Brightness setting has to be redone in User, because for years the owner has been struggling to see shadow detail that was being obliterated by the dirt on the optics. So the dust showing becomes the black level floor.

After cleaning and your entire light path becoming fully transparent again having it set as it was before creates black crush, which is what I am seeing in your pictures. At first I thought it was my monitor at home being possibly set wrong, but I am currently in front of a Mac with a 17" Trinitron monitor, and the look is the same. I would advise you to play with your Br settings a bit, kicking them up a few notches. This will restore your shadow detail.

If you can then shoot the same scenes - or nearly the same anyway - we would see the difference between ideal settings for a given movie and those that are close but not quite ze cigar...

It was fun! Need more people to call me and get this done on their sets. It's crucial to transparent video viewing. And thanks for the kudos -



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Edited by Mr Bob - 11/25/12 at 8:14am

With Mit HDreadys, always examine the boards under the guns for coolant leakage. Mit did not install overflow bladders in their coolant chambers like other brands did, such as Pioneer. As such, in Mits the seals get stressed by the pressure developed by the heat in the CRT, and fluid sometimes gets past them.

Unplug your set, remove the lower fibreboard plate from the front, and shine a strong flashlight around in there to see if any coolant has gotten onto your boards. I can always save the brown ones on the left, as they are single layer. If the coolant penetrates the green one on the right or gets into the legs of the flat pack ICs, it's usually done for. It's a 4 layer board where the outer 2 layers are the ones in play, so a talented and highly patient service tech might be able to save it by running jumpers, but no promises. Usually it's toast, and you have to find a replacement on the net, because Mit no longer produces that board. One owner bought a smaller sized set that had other problems and just used that one board from it, which was still good. It's the board under the blue gun to the right, as you face the set from the front.

I have never been stumped by the other 2 boards, the ones under the red and green guns, which again are single layer. I have always been able to fix them, even when the coolant has eaten away the leg from a resistor. Afterwards they just keep going indefinitely, after a shed has been properly placed to avoid coolant drippage getting on them again.

The coolant drips from the bottom of the metal cowling that houses the guns, directly above the boards. Feel for it and if it's leaking, that bottom most edge will be wet with something that will feel like antifreeze but is clear.

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Edited by Mr Bob - 11/26/12 at 10:46am

I agree, that stuff should come off of there. Be careful and don't get nibbled, you're on a CRT socket board. Don't be anywhere near it while the set is powered up.

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Edited by Mr Bob - 11/27/12 at 12:44am

Glad to help, I always like to hear back when such great results happen. And thanks for the observation about the splendid color rendition of CRT sets vs. LCDs. So true.

As I hope I said at the time, when you have cleaned your optics for the first time in ages, you won't really see the monumental difference you've made in your set during the daytime that first day, if that's when the optics cleaning operation happens. Only when you have total darkness to play with - at night - can the formerly hidden sparkle and gleam that your set has not exhibited in years come out and play. Not to say you should watch your set in total darkness, but unless you have shutout curtains in play in the daytime, too much daylight gets in thru normal draperies and blinds to really get the full effect of the improvements. At night - when you can watch your display the way we watch movies in the actual theaters out at the mall - that's when the real sizzle from the work you did happens.

Cold is not a problem for our sets. However, the abrupt contrast between cold and hot can cause problems. That's why computer rooms and server farms are always kept tightly controlled in their temperatures. No variances, ever. They are run 24/7, day and night, never turned off or on daily, always remaining at exactly the same temp at all times. Never any warmup or cooldown except for the rare times they have to be turned off and on again for maintenance. That keeps cold solder joints from ever getting a foothold and failing later. So if you keep it down in the cold for extended periods, that's not enough to hurt it.

Your Sony can still look better, if you want to do additional tightening-up work on the phone. The precision work that can be done with CRT tech that is fully adjustable with a point system is unbelievable, and literally has to be seen to be believed. That's why screenshots are so important on these threads. Or for those around here who are local, come over to my place and get the full effect of the high precision super-tightening of my 73" Mit, which yours can have too.

Again Anthony, thanks for checking in!



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Edited by Mr Bob - 11/27/12 at 2:35pm

Yes.

The horizontal component of the red sounds like it has failed. Those ICs control not only the point sys, but also the static positioning of both the horizontal and vertical, plus many geometry settings. And when something in there flutters, you know you have sent the point or coarse setting of some area beyond its design parameter limits. To get them back at least to normalcy, you must go back and forth on that point or register setting until the fluttering stops. Find where it gets worse and go the other way till it's at least better again. And try to keep away from going that far away again from where the settings were when the set looked good.

Once you have replaced the IC that goes to that channel - the red horizontal - you will find that any changes you made in trying to correct this problem will still be in play, and will most likely now go the other direction and distort your picture like crazy. When the ICs need to be replaced, the rest of the settings should be left alone. That way it will come back to where it started and only need minor fine tuning. All over the screen of course, but not major disruptions like you have now put into your geometry/convergence paradigm. I saw this happen whose owner happens to work at Oracle, so it's definitely not a matter of intelligence... Luckily enough he had only played with his SD settings and fouled them up. He had not played with his HD settings, so his HD stayed pretty much the way it was before. There is no way to go back to where you were before, once the new settings have been memorized by hitting the Menu key and coming out of the convergence settings.

However if you only did it in User convergence settings, going into the service mode and coming out again will wipe those changes out and return the set to where everything was left, when it was last in the service mode. Question now is, did you do those changes in User or Service mode?

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Edited by Mr Bob - 11/27/12 at 3:13pm

Re. Darblett -

I'd go for it except that my mainline thoroughfare is component. The Darblett is strictly HDMI in/HDMI out. I only use HDMI for upconversions from 480i DVDs to 1080i, and I watch so little of that content that it would not be nearly worth it to me. But I am glad it's here for others to ponder!

Kansanian -



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