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Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 381

post #11401 of 12305
I wish I had space for it. I'd bet it could be brought back to life with Bob's help. Someone should snatch this up.

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/zip/3443176186.html

It's a 65813 according to the owner.
post #11402 of 12305
The 65813 is an exceptional set. Bright, sharp, with 9 inch tubes, a Nikkor glass primary focus lens, and a glass mirror.
post #11403 of 12305
Thanks for the detailed response, Bob.

Luckily User Mode only. And like I said, it just "popped" itself out while I was out of the room, and the only thing I changed was the single Center Point Adjustment. I took it from all the way on the left where it popped to, to all the way to the right -- which was still an inch or so away.

So a few more questions please:
  1. Should I replace both IC's while I am in there if the owner is willing to pay for the parts?
  2. Are there any other diodes or resistors I should replace while I am at it? Or just any resistor that reads bad on the MM?

I found a site that actually shows how to do this on my specific set, but the links on there to the parts supplier are dead. On the site that was linked, I found the same part number:

http://www.electronix.com/semiconductor-stk392-180-p-12966.html

I need two of those, correct, if I want to replace both ICs?

If you have a preferred vendor, especially one with an affiliate program so you can get some commission off of it, please let me know.

I repaired circuit boards at the component level when I was in the Marines on the targeting systems and cameras for the Harrier Jet. So I hope I can handle this job. :-)

Thanks Again,
Troy
post #11404 of 12305
OK, I will bite on the Darbee: What is it supposed to improve, and what does it actually improve? The description on the site is very vague.
post #11405 of 12305

"Depth," actually, which I know is pretty vague.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1399154/darbee-vision-darblet

I'm afraid the "Seeing is believing" maxim applies here. The effect is hard to describe.

Most places (including AVS) give you at least 15 days to try it.

http://shop.avscience.com/DarbeeVision--Darblet-DVP5000_p_351.html

post #11406 of 12305
Thanks LBNL!
post #11407 of 12305
Looks like I am finally going to pull the trigger on replacing my Mitsubishi 65413 with a front projection system before the end of the year. Set has focus issues as noted here in this thread. It may be closer to the end of the year before I am done with the set, but it is free to a good home if anyone wants to pick it up once I am. I am in the North Houston area, send me a PM if interested.
post #11408 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by taichi4 View Post

The 65813 is an exceptional set. Bright, sharp, with 9 inch tubes, a Nikkor glass primary focus lens, and a glass mirror.

That Nikkor glass lens - does primary mean it's in the middle of the lens barrel? I have seen glass lenses be in the middle of that barrel, which of course leaves the front and back surfaces still plastic and much more vulnerable than glass...

b
post #11409 of 12305
Truthfully, Bob, I'm not sure. About a year ago I was at Pauls' and a fellow there who'd been in the business for years got enthusiastic when I told him I had a 65813. It was he who informed me of the optic, which was a distinguishing feature of the set.
post #11410 of 12305
I have owned a Pioneer Elite Pro 710HD 64" television since 2000. For the past couple of years I have noticed the picture quality going down. I have adjusted my Black Level up to around 12. This helped, but not much. Thought I would check the Internet for repair. Found Mr. Bob! He helped me identify my problem, (green face issue was my fault) loose cable that I missed on my first inspection. While talking, I told him that I was getting ready to replace my TV. He suggested a cleaning before I made that decision. He walked me through it. Took about an hour and the bottom line is my TV picture looks fantastic. This was so worth it! I highly recommend anyone with this model TV to do this. Mr. Bob was patient and knowledgeable If you have one of these RPTVs, you need to call him! I would like to have him come and do a calibration of my TV in person. If anyone in Florida is interested in same please let him know. I am in Port Saint Lucie.
post #11411 of 12305
Yeah. The clarity, color, and punch of projection is utterly dependent on transparency of the light path. Put a little dust or powder on some glasses, take a look through them, and all doubts will be erased.
post #11412 of 12305
@ Bob,

Did you get my email? if not please check your spam box. smile.gif
post #11413 of 12305
Hey guys! Can someone please answer my questions from my previous post (quoted below)?

Thanks!
Troy
Quote:
Originally Posted by TAllenSr View Post

Thanks for the detailed response, Bob.
Luckily User Mode only. And like I said, it just "popped" itself out while I was out of the room, and the only thing I changed was the single Center Point Adjustment. I took it from all the way on the left where it popped to, to all the way to the right -- which was still an inch or so away.
So a few more questions please:
  1. Should I replace both IC's while I am in there if the owner is willing to pay for the parts?
  2. Are there any other diodes or resistors I should replace while I am at it? Or just any resistor that reads bad on the MM?
I found a site that actually shows how to do this on my specific set, but the links on there to the parts supplier are dead. On the site that was linked, I found the same part number:
http://www.electronix.com/semiconductor-stk392-180-p-12966.html
I need two of those, correct, if I want to replace both ICs?
If you have a preferred vendor, especially one with an affiliate program so you can get some commission off of it, please let me know.
I repaired circuit boards at the component level when I was in the Marines on the targeting systems and cameras for the Harrier Jet. So I hope I can handle this job. :-)
Thanks Again,
Troy
post #11414 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

@ Bob,
Did you get my email? if not please check your spam box. smile.gif

Sorry, I've been way too busy to read it. My HELOC loan modification people have been me jump thru so many hoops I have not had time to breathe!

Just opened it and sent you a reply.


If anyone has sent me an email and not gotten a response, please send it again. My isp's spam filter has been going crazy and deletes everything 2 weeks after its arrival, and I had no idea till a week ago. I never check it, I just check the gmail spam filter, which everything gets forwarded to. So it may have been tossed by my isp without my even knowing it. If you did not get a reply, please accept my apologies and send it again. I have now disabled my isp's spam filter on my email account.


Leo -

Am looking forward to what you're going to be sending, and thanks for the copy of your demo disc! It's truly marvelous!

cool.gif

b
post #11415 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TAllenSr View Post

Hey guys! Can someone please answer my questions from my previous post (quoted below)?
Thanks!
Troy

Oh I would say you can handle it! Them's some pretty good credentials!

wink.gif

I would not use electronix. They have ultra cheap prices, but such prices usually get you to factory seconds or untested batches. Stick with places like Union Electronics, East Coast, MCM, etc.

If your set uses 2 ICs, yes best to replace both.

They will need to cook for 100 hours before they will deliver a truly stable picture. We call this the "drift period". All CRT RPTVs need 45 minutes of warm-up after turn-on before they stabilize, but new ICs keep drifting for the first 100 hours before they can be trusted to stay rock solid, and will stay rock solid from then on.

Good luck and get back to us!

b
post #11416 of 12305
Thread Starter 
I just got something supposedly from AVS of a contest nature, that promises a $500 Visa Gift Card. All they want is all sorts of personal info, which their privacy policy states they can use (being non-financial) to give away to marketers.

I have probably already given them more than I shoulda, but I could use $500 worth of credit on a debit card right now, which is what is pictured. But before I click that final click, I thought I'd ask here. Anybody else gotten this, supposedly from AVS?

b
post #11417 of 12305
What kind of questions did they ask you? And how do you know it came from AVS?

A forum administrator might be able to run this to ground.

I hope you didn't get your optics cleaned...(attempt to lighten the mood)
Edited by taichi4 - 12/7/12 at 3:13pm
post #11418 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by TAllenSr View Post

Thanks for the detailed response, Bob.
Luckily User Mode only. And like I said, it just "popped" itself out while I was out of the room, and the only thing I changed was the single Center Point Adjustment. I took it from all the way on the left where it popped to, to all the way to the right -- which was still an inch or so away.
So a few more questions please:
  1. Should I replace both IC's while I am in there if the owner is willing to pay for the parts?
  2. Are there any other diodes or resistors I should replace while I am at it? Or just any resistor that reads bad on the MM?
I found a site that actually shows how to do this on my specific set, but the links on there to the parts supplier are dead. On the site that was linked, I found the same part number:
http://www.electronix.com/semiconductor-stk392-180-p-12966.html
I need two of those, correct, if I want to replace both ICs?
If you have a preferred vendor, especially one with an affiliate program so you can get some commission off of it, please let me know.
I repaired circuit boards at the component level when I was in the Marines on the targeting systems and cameras for the Harrier Jet. So I hope I can handle this job. :-)
Thanks Again,
Troy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Oh I would say you can handle it! Them's some pretty good credentials!
wink.gif
I would not use electronix. They have ultra cheap prices, but such prices usually get you to factory seconds or untested batches. Stick with places like Union Electronics, East Coast, MCM, etc.
If your set uses 2 ICs, yes best to replace both.
They will need to cook for 100 hours before they will deliver a truly stable picture. We call this the "drift period". All CRT RPTVs need 45 minutes of warm-up after turn-on before they stabilize, but new ICs keep drifting for the first 100 hours before they can be trusted to stay rock solid, and will stay rock solid from then on.
Good luck and get back to us!
b

It just...popped?

On my RP unit (Samsung HCL4715W), there was a little pico-fuse that had blown. I can't tell you for sure that was the only problem, because I only found it AFTER I had replaced the IC's.

If I had it to do again, I'd take out the heat sink, clean it up, add some more compound, reinstall it, and change the fuse before I even bought the IC's. If the fuse did it's job right, the IC should be fine.

I don't know anything about ANY other RP units; this is my first, and I got it damaged and fixed it. But that's something I would try.
Edited by srwight - 12/8/12 at 5:38pm
post #11419 of 12305
So, quick question.

Unit: Samsung HCL4715W

I am unable to adjust the horizontal size (H-SIZE) of the image, nor can I adjust the PIN-AMP setting. They just won't change. My picture is bowing in a little bit, and I'd like to make it stop (which is what the Repair Manual says Pin Amp is for), in addition to fixing the horizontal width, so I don't have 3" of overscan on each side of the picture!

Any help?

I recently replaced both IC's and a fuse (see my reply above to TAllenSr).

Thanks!
post #11420 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

That Nikkor glass lens - does primary mean it's in the middle of the lens barrel? I have seen glass lenses be in the middle of that barrel, which of course leaves the front and back surfaces still plastic and much more vulnerable than glass...
b

I thought Mitsubishi used a 6 element Hybrid lens for their 9" CRT sets. I have a 73411 and a brand new light box assemly from a 73711 and they both have the same lenses. I am fairly sure that they were made by US Precision Lens out of Cincinatti Ohio which later became Corning Lens and then 3M Optics. With regard to which elements are glass and which are plastic, I have no idea but would like to know. BTW Bob, did you ever get around to installing that glass mirror in you 73 Mits?
post #11421 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by taichi4 View Post

What kind of questions did they ask you? And how do you know it came from AVS?
A forum administrator might be able to run this to ground.
I hope you didn't get your optics cleaned...(attempt to lighten the mood)

In yer dreams...

biggrin.gif

b
post #11422 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by srwight View Post

It just...popped?
On my RP unit (Samsung HCL4715W), there was a little pico-fuse that had blown. I can't tell you for sure that was the only problem, because I only found it AFTER I had replaced the IC's.
If I had it to do again, I'd take out the heat sink, clean it up, add some more compound, reinstall it, and change the fuse before I even bought the IC's. If the fuse did it's job right, the IC should be fine.
I don't know anything about ANY other RP units; this is my first, and I got it damaged and fixed it. But that's something I would try.

Your fuse popped for a reason. When that happens, good to just change both out and be done with it. Only 1 will have taken the fuse down, but chances are the other would not be far behind. Or maybe never. But when it takes a lot to change ICs, best to do both. I believe on a Sammy it's a lot easier than on a Mit, so maybe just do 1 IC in that case since the other would not be that big a thing to do later. On a Mit, any change of ICs is a true PITA, that requires hours. So on a Mit always do both if there are 2.

b
post #11423 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by srwight View Post

So, quick question.
Unit: Samsung HCL4715W
I am unable to adjust the horizontal size (H-SIZE) of the image, nor can I adjust the PIN-AMP setting. They just won't change. My picture is bowing in a little bit, and I'd like to make it stop (which is what the Repair Manual says Pin Amp is for), in addition to fixing the horizontal width, so I don't have 3" of overscan on each side of the picture!
Any help?
I recently replaced both IC's and a fuse (see my reply above to TAllenSr).
Thanks!

Some sets have a completely different section for those circuits, other than the convergence circuit. You'd have to get a service manual and do some spelunking, to know for sure.

b
post #11424 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trey 153 View Post

I thought Mitsubishi used a 6 element Hybrid lens for their 9" CRT sets. I have a 73411 and a brand new light box assemly from a 73711 and they both have the same lenses. I am fairly sure that they were made by US Precision Lens out of Cincinatti Ohio which later became Corning Lens and then 3M Optics. With regard to which elements are glass and which are plastic, I have no idea but would like to know. BTW Bob, did you ever get around to installing that glass mirror in you 73 Mits?
I used to work for them when I was a kid when they first opened up (US Precision Lens)... cool.gif
post #11425 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trey 153 View Post

I thought Mitsubishi used a 6 element Hybrid lens for their 9" CRT sets. I have a 73411 and a brand new light box assemly from a 73711 and they both have the same lenses. I am fairly sure that they were made by US Precision Lens out of Cincinatti Ohio which later became Corning Lens and then 3M Optics. With regard to which elements are glass and which are plastic, I have no idea but would like to know. BTW Bob, did you ever get around to installing that glass mirror in you 73 Mits?

I would not doubt that for a minute. The 9" guns deserve a finer lens than the 7" guns. They produce greater depth.

I have never been inside any lens barrel that has more than 4 elements, but that does not say a 6 element lens is not used. Again, would not doubt that for a minute.

No, still have not found a source that will quickly and easily get me the trapezoidal mirror needed. The one from Taichi4 came close, but those quoted there were square/rectangular mirrors. The place where I originally got the one I had intended for my own set but used on that 73905 in Danville is not responsive anymore to my queries, so I am still looking. Want to do it, tho, very much.

The place I originally used was www.highreflectivemirrors.com. Just tried it again, and this time nothing came up at all for it. A while ago it was non responsive, now it seems to have disappeared entirely.

All ears, if somebody can find me the correct size trapezoidally shaped front surface mirror, in 1/4" thickness -

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 12/10/12 at 8:28am
post #11426 of 12305
Hi folks!

Been a long time since I posted here, and I've tried to avoid cluttering things up more, but I just can't seem to find a straight answer after all of my research so far. Anyway, I have a Pro-610HD (yep, I fixed it with soldering and got a new board too) and am finally itching to watch bluray, etc. So you know where I'm going with this, ha..........who has a bluray player, with hdmi, hooked up to this TV with component? From the bits and pieces I read, I think I need to get a cross converter like the HD Fury products?? But I get confused when I start reading about HDCP problems (yes, it's been a long time since I kept up with forums, harr). I'd really just like to hear of an exact scenario with the Pro-610HD, with model numbers of parts needed, so I can start to plan out this purchase, ha. And if it is HD Fury, where are you all buying them?

Second question...when this eventually goes, it seems like a pity to just trash it, especially the beautiful lacquered black wood. Has anybody converted the cabinets into anything useful? ;o) Hard to believe what we paid for these sets, and now I feel like I'm being forced to move on. Hopefully not for awhile.

Thanks!
Chet
post #11427 of 12305
The possibility that some Mitsubishi Diamonds used a Nikkor primary focus lens gains some weight if you consider that, according to the following linked page, Nikon belongs to the Mitsubishi Group.

http://www.shotaddict.com/brand/Nikon-Nikkor-Lenses/
Edited by taichi4 - 12/11/12 at 10:39am
post #11428 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpizzull View Post
Second question...when this eventually goes, it seems like a pity to just trash it, especially the beautiful lacquered black wood. Has anybody converted the cabinets into anything useful? 

Something like this, perhaps?

 

700

post #11429 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpizzull View Post

Hi folks!
Been a long time since I posted here, and I've tried to avoid cluttering things up more, but I just can't seem to find a straight answer after all of my research so far. Anyway, I have a Pro-610HD (yep, I fixed it with soldering and got a new board too) and am finally itching to watch bluray, etc. So you know where I'm going with this, ha..........who has a bluray player, with hdmi, hooked up to this TV with component? From the bits and pieces I read, I think I need to get a cross converter like the HD Fury products?? But I get confused when I start reading about HDCP problems (yes, it's been a long time since I kept up with forums, harr). I'd really just like to hear of an exact scenario with the Pro-610HD, with model numbers of parts needed, so I can start to plan out this purchase, ha. And if it is HD Fury, where are you all buying them?
Second question...when this eventually goes, it seems like a pity to just trash it, especially the beautiful lacquered black wood. Has anybody converted the cabinets into anything useful? ;o) Hard to believe what we paid for these sets, and now I feel like I'm being forced to move on. Hopefully not for awhile.
Thanks!
Chet

Why would you want to use HDMI for bluray? It's not necessary if you can find yourself a bluray player still equipped with component outputs, which is the best way to do a direct connection from your source to your display. RGB can be used instead if you don't mind missing out on Color and Tint adjusting, and usually is only used by those with expensive scalers which will do that instead. But for going direct from source to display, component is best for our CRT sets. It keeps Color and Tint adjusting alive in your set, and if you want to really trick out your set via going into the service menu and tightening up your convergence, you gotta do it with component anyway. RGB on Pioneer CRT RPTVs will not respond to the service menu on image structure improvements like geometry and convergence.

If you must use HDMI, then yes I recommend the HD Fury series. I have sent in the signal from HDMI through a Fury to both component and RGB inputs on the 610 I keep here for testing PS boards after I have resoldered them, and it works like gangbusters. If you want one, get ahold of me and I'll get you one. You will pay me the same price you'd pay online at their site.

But again, if you can find a BDP that has component output - will have to be on the used market, they have phased out component-equipped BDPs new now - you won't have to worry about that added expense.

Your set is only halfway thru its 20 year service life. You won't have to worry about what happens next for many years, if you take care of your investment like it was worth what you paid for it then, and is still worth keeping alive and well now. Contact me directly for more details about that. I save these sets all the time for dedicated owners and bring their performance back to better than new every time.

BTW owners, this owner apparently handled the intermittents problem correctly. Good work Chet.

Here's the deal - if your set starts having intermittent, unpredictable events happen, don't dally and wait for it to get worse, because it will. And expensive. In that event definitely contact me directly and immediately and I will save your set. Usually I can still save them even if it has gone on a little too long and now the set goes into protection upon turn-on, but it is much more cost effective to nip it in the bud. If it's still turning on properly from dead cold but having intermittent events once warmed up, nothing's been damaged yet, but you're on thin ice. Don't let that status change. To wit: DON'T KEEP IT ON FOR LONGER THAN 40 SECONDS FROM DEAD COLD. Don't allow it to warm up again if it's having intermittent events, even once! Unplug it, let it go cold and keep it there. The health of your set is riding on it.

More details on how to handle this intermittents thing - and pix of incoming boards with their cold solder joints flagrantly visible, plus finished product screenshots of the pix these sets are actually capable of - can be found at this thread. I recommend staying towards the end of the thread rather than the beginning, because at the beginning owners were still thrashing around trying to make sense of what was going on. In the later parts you'll see that a definite solution was ultimately found (by me... smile.gif) and has been available for years, including a lifetime warranty on that solution personally delivered and maintained by yours truly.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/402397/pioneer-elite-pro-510-problem/2800_100#post_22681513

Keep your Pioneer Elite - and non-Elite, same thing electronically and mechanically - CRT RPTV alive. It has many years of faithful service still ahead of it, with a 20 year service life only half lived out so far.

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 12/11/12 at 12:13pm
post #11430 of 12305
Bob or any of the other experts in this thread.....

Any hope for saving a Sony KP-57WS510 that looks to have blown its convergence IC's? My brother called me yesterday and told me that my old Sony was having out of focus issues. The center of the display seems to be better than the outside sections, but you cant align the grids in the convergence menu, and flash focus (aka auto-convergence) isnt working either.

Some quick googling got me to thinking that it's the convergence IC's, and a repair kit can be purchased for 80 bucks, but is it something that someone with a good grasp of technical stuff and not the best of soldering skills can handle? I dont want to waste the money or time if I'm destined for failuire in my attempt to resurect the beast!

Thanks for any replies in advance.
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