Originally Posted by cpizzull
Been a long time since I posted here, and I've tried to avoid cluttering things up more, but I just can't seem to find a straight answer after all of my research so far. Anyway, I have a Pro-610HD (yep, I fixed it with soldering and got a new board too) and am finally itching to watch bluray, etc. So you know where I'm going with this, ha..........who has a bluray player, with hdmi, hooked up to this TV with component? From the bits and pieces I read, I think I need to get a cross converter like the HD Fury products?? But I get confused when I start reading about HDCP problems (yes, it's been a long time since I kept up with forums, harr). I'd really just like to hear of an exact scenario with the Pro-610HD, with model numbers of parts needed, so I can start to plan out this purchase, ha. And if it is HD Fury, where are you all buying them?
Second question...when this eventually goes, it seems like a pity to just trash it, especially the beautiful lacquered black wood. Has anybody converted the cabinets into anything useful? ;o) Hard to believe what we paid for these sets, and now I feel like I'm being forced to move on. Hopefully not for awhile.
Why would you want to use HDMI for bluray? It's not necessary if you can find yourself a bluray player still equipped with component outputs, which is the best way to do a direct connection from your source to your display. RGB can be used instead if you don't mind missing out on Color and Tint adjusting, and usually is only used by those with expensive scalers which will do that instead. But for going direct from source to display, component is best for our CRT sets. It keeps Color and Tint adjusting alive in your set, and if you want to really trick out your set via going into the service menu and tightening up your convergence, you gotta do it with component anyway. RGB on Pioneer CRT RPTVs will not respond to the service menu on image structure improvements like geometry and convergence.
If you must use HDMI, then yes I recommend the HD Fury series. I have sent in the signal from HDMI through a Fury to both component and RGB inputs on the 610 I keep here for testing PS boards after I have resoldered them, and it works like gangbusters. If you want one, get ahold of me and I'll get you one. You will pay me the same price you'd pay online at their site.
But again, if you can find a BDP that has component output - will have to be on the used market, they have phased out component-equipped BDPs new now - you won't have to worry about that added expense.
Your set is only halfway thru its 20 year service life. You won't have to worry about what happens next for many years, if you take care of your investment like it was worth what you paid for it then, and is still worth keeping alive and well now. Contact me directly for more details about that. I save these sets all the time for dedicated owners and bring their performance back to better than new every time.
BTW owners, this owner apparently handled the intermittents problem correctly. Good work Chet.
Here's the deal - if your set starts having intermittent, unpredictable events happen, don't dally and wait for it to get worse, because it will. And expensive. In that event definitely contact me directly and immediately and I will save your set. Usually I can still save them even if it has gone on a little too long and now the set goes into protection upon turn-on, but it is much more cost effective to nip it in the bud. If it's still turning on properly from dead cold but having intermittent events once warmed up, nothing's been damaged yet, but you're on thin ice. Don't let that status change. To wit: DON'T KEEP IT ON FOR LONGER THAN 40 SECONDS FROM DEAD COLD.
Don't allow it to warm up again if it's having intermittent events, even once! Unplug it, let it go cold and keep it there. The health of your set is riding on it.
More details on how to handle this intermittents thing - and pix of incoming boards with their cold solder joints flagrantly visible, plus finished product screenshots of the pix these sets are actually capable of - can be found at this thread. I recommend staying towards the end of the thread rather than the beginning, because at the beginning owners were still thrashing around trying to make sense of what was going on. In the later parts you'll see that a definite solution was ultimately found (by me...
) and has been available for years, including a lifetime warranty on that solution personally delivered and maintained by yours truly.
Keep your Pioneer Elite - and non-Elite, same thing electronically and mechanically - CRT RPTV alive. It has many years of faithful service still ahead of it, with a 20 year service life only half lived out so far.
bEdited by Mr Bob - 12/11/12 at 12:13pm