Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 381

That Nikkor glass lens - does primary mean it's in the middle of the lens barrel? I have seen glass lenses be in the middle of that barrel, which of course leaves the front and back surfaces still plastic and much more vulnerable than glass...

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Sorry, I've been way too busy to read it. My HELOC loan modification people have been me jump thru so many hoops I have not had time to breathe!

Just opened it and sent you a reply.


If anyone has sent me an email and not gotten a response, please send it again. My isp's spam filter has been going crazy and deletes everything 2 weeks after its arrival, and I had no idea till a week ago. I never check it, I just check the gmail spam filter, which everything gets forwarded to. So it may have been tossed by my isp without my even knowing it. If you did not get a reply, please accept my apologies and send it again. I have now disabled my isp's spam filter on my email account.


Leo -

Am looking forward to what you're going to be sending, and thanks for the copy of your demo disc! It's truly marvelous!



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Oh I would say you can handle it! Them's some pretty good credentials!



I would not use electronix. They have ultra cheap prices, but such prices usually get you to factory seconds or untested batches. Stick with places like Union Electronics, East Coast, MCM, etc.

If your set uses 2 ICs, yes best to replace both.

They will need to cook for 100 hours before they will deliver a truly stable picture. We call this the "drift period". All CRT RPTVs need 45 minutes of warm-up after turn-on before they stabilize, but new ICs keep drifting for the first 100 hours before they can be trusted to stay rock solid, and will stay rock solid from then on.

Good luck and get back to us!

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I just got something supposedly from AVS of a contest nature, that promises a $500 Visa Gift Card. All they want is all sorts of personal info, which their privacy policy states they can use (being non-financial) to give away to marketers.

I have probably already given them more than I shoulda, but I could use $500 worth of credit on a debit card right now, which is what is pictured. But before I click that final click, I thought I'd ask here. Anybody else gotten this, supposedly from AVS?

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In yer dreams...



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Your fuse popped for a reason. When that happens, good to just change both out and be done with it. Only 1 will have taken the fuse down, but chances are the other would not be far behind. Or maybe never. But when it takes a lot to change ICs, best to do both. I believe on a Sammy it's a lot easier than on a Mit, so maybe just do 1 IC in that case since the other would not be that big a thing to do later. On a Mit, any change of ICs is a true PITA, that requires hours. So on a Mit always do both if there are 2.

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Some sets have a completely different section for those circuits, other than the convergence circuit. You'd have to get a service manual and do some spelunking, to know for sure.

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I would not doubt that for a minute. The 9" guns deserve a finer lens than the 7" guns. They produce greater depth.

I have never been inside any lens barrel that has more than 4 elements, but that does not say a 6 element lens is not used. Again, would not doubt that for a minute.

No, still have not found a source that will quickly and easily get me the trapezoidal mirror needed. The one from Taichi4 came close, but those quoted there were square/rectangular mirrors. The place where I originally got the one I had intended for my own set but used on that 73905 in Danville is not responsive anymore to my queries, so I am still looking. Want to do it, tho, very much.

The place I originally used was www.highreflectivemirrors.com. Just tried it again, and this time nothing came up at all for it. A while ago it was non responsive, now it seems to have disappeared entirely.

All ears, if somebody can find me the correct size trapezoidally shaped front surface mirror, in 1/4" thickness -

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Edited by Mr Bob - 12/10/12 at 8:28am

Why would you want to use HDMI for bluray? It's not necessary if you can find yourself a bluray player still equipped with component outputs, which is the best way to do a direct connection from your source to your display. RGB can be used instead if you don't mind missing out on Color and Tint adjusting, and usually is only used by those with expensive scalers which will do that instead. But for going direct from source to display, component is best for our CRT sets. It keeps Color and Tint adjusting alive in your set, and if you want to really trick out your set via going into the service menu and tightening up your convergence, you gotta do it with component anyway. RGB on Pioneer CRT RPTVs will not respond to the service menu on image structure improvements like geometry and convergence.

If you must use HDMI, then yes I recommend the HD Fury series. I have sent in the signal from HDMI through a Fury to both component and RGB inputs on the 610 I keep here for testing PS boards after I have resoldered them, and it works like gangbusters. If you want one, get ahold of me and I'll get you one. You will pay me the same price you'd pay online at their site.

But again, if you can find a BDP that has component output - will have to be on the used market, they have phased out component-equipped BDPs new now - you won't have to worry about that added expense.

Your set is only halfway thru its 20 year service life. You won't have to worry about what happens next for many years, if you take care of your investment like it was worth what you paid for it then, and is still worth keeping alive and well now. Contact me directly for more details about that. I save these sets all the time for dedicated owners and bring their performance back to better than new every time.

BTW owners, this owner apparently handled the intermittents problem correctly. Good work Chet.

Here's the deal - if your set starts having intermittent, unpredictable events happen, don't dally and wait for it to get worse, because it will. And expensive. In that event definitely contact me directly and immediately and I will save your set. Usually I can still save them even if it has gone on a little too long and now the set goes into protection upon turn-on, but it is much more cost effective to nip it in the bud. If it's still turning on properly from dead cold but having intermittent events once warmed up, nothing's been damaged yet, but you're on thin ice. Don't let that status change. To wit: DON'T KEEP IT ON FOR LONGER THAN 40 SECONDS FROM DEAD COLD. Don't allow it to warm up again if it's having intermittent events, even once! Unplug it, let it go cold and keep it there. The health of your set is riding on it.

More details on how to handle this intermittents thing - and pix of incoming boards with their cold solder joints flagrantly visible, plus finished product screenshots of the pix these sets are actually capable of - can be found at this thread. I recommend staying towards the end of the thread rather than the beginning, because at the beginning owners were still thrashing around trying to make sense of what was going on. In the later parts you'll see that a definite solution was ultimately found (by me... ) and has been available for years, including a lifetime warranty on that solution personally delivered and maintained by yours truly.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/402397/pioneer-elite-pro-510-problem/2800_100#post_22681513

Keep your Pioneer Elite - and non-Elite, same thing electronically and mechanically - CRT RPTV alive. It has many years of faithful service still ahead of it, with a 20 year service life only half lived out so far.

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Edited by Mr Bob - 12/11/12 at 12:13pm