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Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 384

post #11491 of 11733
1/5/13 at 1:36pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by er824 View Post

Thanks for the reply Bob.
Would you mind explaining the theory behind the need for the G2 adjustment? I'm curious if the voltage has drifted or if the CRTs have aged and now need more energy.

Yes. Both factor in, and neither is necessarily the exclusive answer.

Need to know and I don't. Nor do I care, really. The degeneration that happens over the years seems to happen only to the Pioneers, so it's not like it's a trend. No need for an extensive investigation as to why, and nobody would ever get paid for something like that investigation, which could take a very long time to conduct or research. It can't be changed now anyway no matter what the findings would be if investigated. You simply do the realignment and continue to enjoy your set, knowing that if it took 10 years to get this bad out of the box, chances are it will take another 10 years to go bad again. At which point the realignment can be done again.

Same with grayscale. It drifts off over the years because the colors degenerate at different rates. So realignment is needed every so often. Same with convergence. It drifts off and needs to be retightened every so often. Each point on a Mit convergence grid can be placed 522 clicks to the left of zero, 522 clicks to the right, 522 clicks up and 522 clicks down. That's over 2000 potential positions for each individual point to be placed in, on the 72 point grid. It drifts eventually. Why? Who knows! Who cares? It seems to be a factor of the ICs and their need to be burned in, which only really kicks in badly when new.

What causes a Lamborghini's tune up to drift off and need to be redone every so often? When you find the answer to that, maybe it will shed some light here too!

smile.gif

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 1/5/13 at 1:44pm
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post #11492 of 11733
1/5/13 at 2:10pm
Thanks for the answer. If you look at my earlier posting and wording of the question I had some doubt as to whether bit rate applied to CRT. The thrust of my question was about color, and you answered it.

Sometimes while I'm watching something I reflect on how nicely and naturally color is rendered. Most LCDs that I have seen look stark in contrast.

Cheers
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post #11493 of 11733
1/5/13 at 2:18pm
Thread Starter 
Smooth, baby! Smooth. Couldn't agree more.

cool.gif

b
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post #11494 of 11733
1/6/13 at 1:43pm
I noticed on my Pioneer 530HDi that there is something wrong on the extreme right side of the image.When watching content it shows up as a bright area on the right edge of the screen about a 1/8"-1/4" wide.

When looking at the user menu 1080i multipoint convergence grid while a 1080i signal is being fed into the current input over hdmi I see some spurious color bands in the top right and bottom right corners.

Watching 480i content over the same HDMI connection and I don't see the band, nor do I see the extra colors on the 1080 multipoint grid if a 480i signal is being fed into HDMI input while the grid is being displayed.

Here are some screen shots to illustrate. You may need to click on the image to see the larger version for the distortion to show up

This shot is of an 1080i signal coming from my HD-TIVO via (HDMI/1080i), notice the discoloration on the right



These 2 are the user menu 1080 convergence grid while a 1080i signal is being fed into the active input , notice the extra colors on the right corners




User menu 1080 conv grid when on an HDMI input with no signal being fed to it, notice the extra colors are gone



Overscan test pattern from the original Video Essentials DVD (S-Video)



Overscan test pattern from the original Video Essentials DVD coming from Blu-Ray Player (HDMI/1080i)



Another test pattern from the VE DVD (HDMI/1080i), shows some extra color on the right



Another test pattern from the VE DVD (S-Video),



I'm curious what is causing the distortion on the right, and why the convergence grid is affected by the active signal on the input.

As always, any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
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post #11495 of 11733
1/7/13 at 7:38pm
Thread Starter 
Just touched down in Vegas. Will answer later

B
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post #11496 of 11733
1/7/13 at 7:46pm
Enjoy the show, Bob!
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post #11497 of 11733
1/8/13 at 4:59am
Thread Starter 
Will do!

:-)


Er824-

Have you done any work on your overscan? Changed your sizing or placement/positioning registers at all?

From what I am seeing, you are "showing an edge" on the right side. If you move the entire picture to the right a bit, that bright edge may disappear for you. Don't move it too much or the left side may become affected. Or your picture may develop a keystone error.

On the Pioneers, 480 and 1080 occupy completely different and separate memory banks. Which explains why you see that band on 1 scanrate and not the other. However as a 30 series, their final CRT RPTV model, your set can be told to make sure everything hits your screen as 1080. At which point you never have to use 480 again.

B
Edited by Mr Bob - 1/8/13 at 5:16am
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post #11498 of 11733
1/8/13 at 10:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Just touched down in Vegas. Will answer later

B

Have fun Bob!!!
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post #11499 of 11733
1/8/13 at 4:09pm
Hi Again CRT Fans
I was here about a year ago selling my Mits 65813 calibrated by Craig Rounds. A fine man from Jersey drove here to buy her after seeing my posts on the forum. He is quite happy with the Mits.
Well, I am here again with another Mits 65813 calibrated by Craig Rounds.
My buddy who owns this particular 65813 is getting the 70" Elite in 3-4 weeks.
The TV is located in Chesapeake, VA
The TV was calibrated by Craig in 2007
It has the 2% overscan mod, and the edge enhancement mod that Craig performed on-site.
In 2009, the 9V regulator and DM caps were replaced by Craig during a 2 year tune up visit.
The TV is flawless. No burn-in

As stated, it will be 3-4 weeks, before this TV will be available.
Any one interested?
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post #11500 of 11733
1/8/13 at 5:34pm
First off I hope I am in the right place. I have a question concerning my Pioneer Elite PRO-630HD and would be so very happy if someone could help me or point me in the right direction. I have not looked through all 384 pages here, but if the answer is contained within these pages, just let me know and I will go look for it.

I will mention that a number of years ago I did replace the convergence chips, 3 if I recall correctly and the set has been fine.

Today while my wife was watching some TV, the set just shut down. Screen went black and green power light turned red with no flashing. TV made no unusual sounds when it shut down. When I got home I turned the main power button off and left it off for several minutes. Turned it back on and then pressed the standby power button. Light turned from red to green for several seconds and went right back to red.

Any thoughts and/or ideas would sure be appreciated.

Thanks,
Lon
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post #11501 of 11733
1/8/13 at 8:32pm
Thread Starter 
Sometimes with the convergence IC's go, they take a fuse with them that allows the set to turn on as well. It's 1 of the few few cases where something besides the ICs needs to be replaced as well, on a Mitsubishi.

Start by checking the fuses. Chances are they look like little green resistors without any bands, just writing.

B
Edited by Mr Bob - 1/9/13 at 5:43am
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post #11502 of 11733
1/9/13 at 6:13am
Thread Starter 
Well the first thing at CES to comment on is the huge video wall that doubles as the entrance to the entire video display section of the show. It is a huge curved wall that bends out and hovers over us, made entirely of flat panels.

What's on that huge wall of flat panels is glorious 3D, with incredibly spacious scenes. These are viewed with passive polarization glasses, handed out by LG. The outer space scenes are just to die for.

At the bottom of this huge wall is the actual entrance to the rest of the section. It is also very spacious, telling you just how huge this actual wall is.

At a glance, there seems to be no difference between the 3D being shown and the actual entrance itself. The effect is a seamless wall of reality. Droves of people in passive polarized 3D glasses stood there, rap with attention, their jaws on the floor.

B
Edited by Mr Bob - 1/9/13 at 6:27am
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post #11503 of 11733
1/9/13 at 10:05am
Keep the updates coming for us poor folks that can't attend.
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post #11504 of 11733
1/9/13 at 10:20am
Thanks for the very visual reportage, Bob. Makes us feel like we're there. smile.gif
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post #11505 of 11733
1/9/13 at 5:47pm
Would I maybe find those on the power supply board or could they be anywhere? And you indicated they do not look like normal fuses, but rather look like little green resistors without the color bands? So I do not need to remember bad boy's r o y g ........ETC. Boy I just looked up the color codes on WIKI and can see there are much better phrases.

Thanks,
Lon
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post #11506 of 11733
1/11/13 at 7:31am
Thread Starter 
If these are the ones I typically see on Mit's, then they are small and green and no you don't have to remember any color codes, the value will be printed on the fuses. A 5 amp fuse will say 5A on it.

Fuses don't use the color codes that resistors use, that's one way to tell them apart.

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 1/11/13 at 8:05am
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post #11507 of 11733
1/11/13 at 8:04am
Thread Starter 
Here's some shots from CES of that video wall. More later -


Video wall with entrance at bottom







video wall left edge (what it looks like without the glasses)




What it looks like with the glasses, imagine in full 3D!






Kelly Lebrock, star of Weird Science and Lady In Red



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Edited by Mr Bob - 1/12/13 at 10:13am
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post #11508 of 11733
1/11/13 at 9:27am
Ya, I realize that the fuses do not have bands. I was just trying to be funny.

What I did find was a fuse, they are normal glass fuses, blown. It is a 6.3A/125V fuse. Service manual indicates a "Probable Defective Part" as the IC401 and IC402 which is the STK392-180 part I replaced back in 2008.

I also found a Power Down (P.D.) LED D111 lit, which indicates a issue with the Deflection Service Assy. Amoung a number of other "Probable Defective Parts" listed are the IC401 and IC402 again.

The trouble shooting in the manual was looking for certain voltages at the anode side of 5 or 6 different diodes, but my poor old eyes was having a pretty hard time finding them.

I am thinking I may start there.

Lon

I really need to try proof reading what I write.
Edited by lrtrees - 1/11/13 at 9:44am
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post #11509 of 11733
1/11/13 at 9:37am
Thread Starter 
Replace the conv ICs again, plus the affected fuses. I have never seen a protection diode blow. You have enough info now, you don't need to discover those voltages. If that doesn't do it, then go to those diodes.

b
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post #11510 of 11733
1/11/13 at 9:41am
Thanks,

That is my plan.

The parts are available locally and will pick them up this afternoon.

Keeping my fingers crossed because I sure do not want to replace this beast.

It still looks great and I am sure it would be much better with some calibration.

Lon
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post #11511 of 11733
1/11/13 at 12:46pm
Once you're done soldering everything back you should give the mirror and optics a cleaning.

If you have any concerns on any steps you can give Bob a call.

Good luck.
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post #11512 of 11733
1/11/13 at 2:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post
Kelly Lebrock, star of Weird Science and Lady In Red



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

My, what a lovely couple.

 

 

Yes, you may interpret that however you wish.

wink.gif

 

Have a safe trip home, Bob. And don't forget LG glasses for all of us.

Michael

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post #11513 of 11733
1/11/13 at 9:02pm
Thread Starter 
We're dating ourselves, Michael. When Kelly took the podium to begin the announcements of the winners, she mentioned Weird Science and nobody reacted. They were all too young! I went up to her later and said I remembered. She said "That was a long time ago." I said, "That was us, baby." (I think I'd had a drink by then...)

She's really a sweetheart. 4 or 5 of us had a chance to bounce things off each other later, like how wolves come down from the mountain where she lives and attack her animals and she has to go after them, fully loaded...

I had fun! And she has lost none of her sizzle with me!

wink.gif

b
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post #11514 of 11733
1/11/13 at 9:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

We're dating ourselves, Michael. 

I looked it up. I'm older than she is. OUCH.

eek.gif

 

So how do you calibrate a set in 3D?

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post #11515 of 11733
1/11/13 at 11:52pm
Thread Starter 
Same way I took the picture of that video wall: thru one of the eyeglass filters.

b
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post #11516 of 11733
1/12/13 at 9:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post


"That was us, baby."

Priceless. One drink and Frank Sinatra comes out. rolleyes.gif
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post #11517 of 11733
1/12/13 at 9:06am
Well, the conv. IC's did the trick. She is up and running once again. And it was a lot cheaper than going out and buying a new one!!

One thing I did notice while in there was the dust on everything. Can anyone tell me if there are good, competent instructions on the forum here as far as how this task needs to accomplished. I would like to do it the right way.smile.gif

Thanks for your help in getting her back up and running. My wife sure was happy!!

Lon
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post #11518 of 11733
1/12/13 at 9:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lrtrees View Post

One thing I did notice while in there was the dust on everything. Can anyone tell me if there are good, competent instructions on the forum here as far as how this task needs to accomplished. I would like to do it the right way.smile.gif
 

Call Bob for a phone consult (unless he never returns from La-La-Land). Extremely worthwhile and cost-effective.

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post #11519 of 11733
1/12/13 at 10:31am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post



And don't forget LG glasses for all of us.
Michael

Which color would you like?



ps - in operation they are identical to the Real D 3D ones you get at the theaters, so be sure and stock up whenever you watch a 3D movie out there. Many of those they hand out are scratched or scoured - from normal cleaning of that ultra soft plastic surface, they don't use my time-tested optics cleaning methods - by the time they get used again. Whenever I go to an IMAX movie I typically have to turn in 2 or 3 again before I get issued one that is clean enough for me. So if you get a really pristine set of 3D glasses out there, take them home with you and keep them at the ready for next time.

I still use Real D ones that were discarded at demo showings - perfectly new and many in unopened packages - from my last CES 3 - or was it 4? - years ago!

biggrin.gif

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 1/12/13 at 10:48am
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post #11520 of 11733
1/12/13 at 11:26am
Thread Starter 
World's largest OLED: LG 55" and Sony 56"



BTW, it's no longer termed "million to one contrast ratio" to describe OLED. It is now known as "infinite contrast ratio"!

More later when I get home... I'm still in Vegas! I'll try to get you my pic of the Sharp 8K proprietary display before I get back...

wink.gif

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 1/12/13 at 11:33am
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