Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 386

For the Sharp Elite the ANSI Contrast ratio is 15194:1, whereas the "Dynamic" Contrast is supposedly 8.000,000:1, which sounds like electronic babblespeak to me.
Can you put this is in context as far as CRT RPTV is concerned? It sounds like 100,000:1 for CRT RPTV is actual contrast ratio, versus apparent.

I agree with what the earlier poster said. The only thing that could get me to budge off of CRT is OLED, and an affordable truly big OLED panel is still some way off.

I've said this before, but CRT RPTV does not give me eyestrain, whereas LCD does.

Regarding something like the local dimming Elite...is there another term to describe its contrast ratio? From what I understand, dynamic ratio refers to the ratio between the brightest white compared to the darkest black a display can produce, but not at the same time. In the case of static or native contrast these are measured in the same shot or at the same time for any given image.

With a local dimming set, you can achieve a bright white and a dark black at the same time, but not without certain artifacts (including blooming). Shouldn't there be another term besides dynamic for this instance?

LCD TV bothers my eyes in a short time. I wonder if this is due to the fact that LCD uses and produces polarized light, vs normal light (and that produced by CRT) which produces fields in multiple directions.

Or possibly it tires the eyes because variations in brightness (particularly with LEDs, which only operate as ON or OFF) are produced by pulse width modulation or intentionally modulated flickering.

What was your impression of the Elite? In the sweet spot (directly in front) its image seemed no better than my 65813. When I moved off axis the picture degraded, and the salesman complained that I had stepped on his foot.

Regarding OLED, despite all the controversy on another thread, I believe Sony and Panasonic's cooperative venture will bring "printed" OLED manufacturing to a practical issue in two or three years. Then we will for sure see the 55 inch models drop quite a bit in price, and larger 4K OLEDS become at least relatively affordable.

There are just too many good things about OLED, though burn in and stability of the "blue" are unanswered questions.

Meanwhile, CRT keeps on churning, with the only small downsides being energy consumption and no 3D (except for your Panasonic, and possibly other sets with a Moome device).
Edited by taichi4 - 2/11/13 at 9:08am

I've just Been reading posts here . Wonder if anyone has the link to a service manual for a Sony kp51ws510

Thanks in advance
John

http://elektrotanya.com/?q=showresult&what=kp51ws510&kategoria=tv&kat2=schematics

HDFury3 listed in the classifieds:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1458448/fs-hdfury-3-used-2-hours-200-shipped

Beautiful CSI shot, Bob!

Someone should snap that thing up.

will my hitachi 57F710S handle the games from a PS3 without issue? i've been reading different things about 1080i compatibility and i may be buying my gf a PS3 and want to make sure the games will look at least as good as my HD tv shows

or do i need a new tv

Sorry, don't game. Biggest problem will be overscan, since games generally play edge-to-edge. I'll defer to someone with a PS3.

Michael

The other big benefit is no input lag, which many of LCDs suffer. You do want to get the overscan dialed in. I've got an older HD CRT (direct view) that I game on that I wasn't able to dial the overscan to a reasonable level (8-10% on both sides). So, I bought a used DVDO Edge, which allows you to do all kinds of image adjustments, including an underscan option to correct display overscan.

I use a DVDO VP-30 to dial in my picture on my Pioneer Elite Pro 710 HD it works great as i was loosing the lap count on my Nascar races, so now i can see everything

What about some XBox 360 'footage' connected to a Mitsubishi WS-65517?
My parents just gave me this TV they bought at a yard sale for $250...I cleaned it up, did manual convergence, and set it up today. Took me awhile--I'm hauling it upstairs in a few to set it up in a BR closet I use for some A/V stuff up there; I plan on connecting it to a Dell tower I built into a nicer case--an Inspiron 580 with an HDMI out, that I tried on it today (actually, pretty much all day, today, as I had the same issues many have trying to read Windows desktop text connected to 1080i).
At 30Hz, interlaced, it took me over an hour to get it to a 'nearly' acceptable level of readability. Without phasing settings in many low-res LCD monitors, Windows text is one of the few things a projection TV just can't do (unless...anybody? I'm definitely one to try anything that won't break the thing!).
Nothing special GPU-wise, in that Dell--factory Intel HD HDMI interface, with a Windows-based UI that I worked at for over an hour before finally settling on the simple resolution settings just 2 short of the 'recommended' (unreadable) 1920x1080 (interlaced...that's why).
Like I said, it'll all be hooked up in a darker room later tonight--one hour if I don't obsess over 'sound' up there, but more likely, four hours, since I've been looking forward to tricking out that room with some old JBL bookshelf monitor speakers and a cheap-but-nice Aiwa A/V unit (or 'other').
I thought I was going to have to bug Bob here for some of the ol' 'noobish free advice' re: lens focus (as in...'How?'), but after hooking it up to my old PS2 earlier, I can wait on that 'til I've enjoyed it for awhile connected to my 360.
I do have some questions about the Mitsubishi 'NetCommand' stuff, and yes, I've read enough already to see it's somewhat favored by some TV techs, while stunting the fun of some avg. consumers out there.
Another couple of questions involve the likelihood of finding an actual service manual for the WS-65517 (and not a parts list, or of course the owner's, which I already DL'd earlier this morning to get started); AND what else I physically could connect to the TV (so many outputs, so little expertise, sense, and unforeseen repair budget).
I"ll upload pics later, once I get it out of the garage and upstairs.
OH--one more thing--I heard it humming slightly today...it had been 'off' for an hour or so, but still plugged in...is that a 'good thing'?
(Why do I feel like Tyrone Biggums asking his postal boss if 'Anthrax is bad?'.)

As long as the TV accepts 720p input you'll be fine. I'm not familiar with that Hitachi but my 51F59A accepted 720p fine. The problem with the PS3 vs the Xbox 360 or Wii U is almost all the PS3 games output at 720p, very few output 1080i/p and if it doesn't accept 720p input the games will default down to 480p if aren't specifically programed to output 1080i/p. Xbox 360 and Wii U can scale to 1080i/p internally, the PS3 can't.
Edited by |Tch0rT| - 2/22/13 at 5:30pm

Try uping the DPI to 125 or 150, and changing to large icons. There may be one more setting to change, but basically, it allows you to keep the high res, and just makes text bigger. Basically the same thing as the new Macbooks with retina display.

Edit: are you XP, Vista, or 7?
Edited by oryan_dunn - 2/23/13 at 6:16am

 

Net result:

 

 

 

Hitachi 57F59A

(somewhat modified )

Michael

http://www.manualowl.com/m/Hitachi/57F710/Manual/72569

i finally found the manual online..it states only dtv formats such as 1080i 720p 480p and 480i are available for hdmi input

i quickly thumbed thru the tv settigns with the remote and there's no way to change rez on there, so i guess the tv just accepts what the tivo or games etc output? i guess this is good news though since the manual states 720p though !

im just not a gamer, gf is, but i didnt know games were made for specific resolutions

The TV will detect the resolutions automatically. You should be fine with the PS3. When you set up the PS3 select 720p and 1080i in the PS3's menu (if you just select 1080i most games will revert down to 480p) and you'll be all set. The PS3 does thing differently then the 360. Both PS3 and Xbox 360 render everything at lower res than 720p. I don't know the some of the terminology but I know the 360 has a chip in it that upscales whatever the game's rendering resolution (as I said, lower than 720p res) to whatever the native res of the display is. The PS3 lacks a chip that does that automatically so they have to be programed for 720p or 1080i/p and the PS3 isn't powerful enough for true 1080i/p. Some games like Metal Gear Solid 4 can run at 1080i/p with a software scaling trick but it usually plays choppier than 720p (the PS3 will pick the best res to run after you select which resolutions your TV will accept, unselecting the 720p in that menu will force the higher res on the games that support it). This was a large problem at the launch of the PS3 since very few RP CRT HDTV's accept 720p input signal so a lot of RP CRT HDTV owners were promised HD gaming and got 480p instead. Sony should've known better since they made RP CRT HDTV's...

well ill be the guinea pig to post pics then. there was a fantastic deal on slickdeals yesterday for 229 for the newest 500 gig machine. should be here by the weekend. ill have to play with settings, based on the info here, to get the best pic. now i gotta dig out my hdmi cables and hook up my switcher again too.

Lol at the op. Poor convergence, colour is off like LCD when you view from an angle, huge cabinet. Can't do high resolution like plasma or LCD can, don't have HDMI inputs. Needed to fiddle with geometry. Convergence drift, had to do geometry and convergence for all aspect modes, resolutions, and display formats (a couple of dozen)

The one good thing with CRT RP is good sound quality, mine had 5" woofers. Threw my old CRT RP in the the tip. Have to keep insides clean. oh and poor connectivity with a PC. S-Video? Component?

The screen doubler/refresh features aren't as good as modern sets. No built in media features or HD freeview/HD Sky.

I had a CRT RP. Good back then, but now? A decent plasma beats it.

Rose tinted glasses I think.
Edited by fatbottom - 2/26/13 at 6:55am

Yes, easy to convert progressive to interlaced, but interlaced into progressive is a mess. Most people first experience that horror when watching interlaced video on a computer monitor which is a progressive display.

Side note: I have narrowed the issue on my Mitsubishi to the DM module.


Greg

I just got this tv Sony 65ws500. The price was free. I had to take it down a flight of stairs and back up one. That was the hard part

Anyway this set has an ok picture. I got it mostly for the kids to have to play wii. I am wanting to clean the insides, but dont want to damage anything. all of your expertise is welcomed. Just trying to get a better picture for their games.

Bill

The three main parts are the lens, the mirror and the screen. And other parts like inside the cabinet panels you want to clean to remove so it doesn't come off dirtying those 3 things. Also depending how filthy it is, there may be dust between the lens and crt guns. I could look between them and was little bits of chipboard that fell onto the CRT guns. If I recall a optical focus is a good start that should be done before any geometry and convergence. You have electrical focus as well, that is focus on the actual CRT. If you do that, you do it before optical focus

electrical focus, optical focus, geometry, then convergence.

or electrical shock.