Originally Posted by cpizzull
Hi Mr. Bob et al !
Looks like I need to solder my powerboard again on my PRO-610HD. Not sure if you saw my post on the other thread last week, but it randomly wouldn't turn on from standby. Usually if idle after 24 hours I think. Anyway, yesterday, it popped loud and shut-off. Knowing not to use the tv anymore, I figure I need to do the ole solder again. I originally did it over 5 years ago, at which time I had also replaced my Deflection Assy board. Anyway, after pulling the pboard, I had some questions since I've been out of the loop for awhile.
Per the pics, 1. what is the brown stuff around some of the solder areas? Do I remove that or just leave it alone? If remove, how? 2. I believe I add solder to the tracks that are very dull in color, correct, as circled and pointed out in the pics. Thanks again for any other info you have. The tv pic has been amazing since the deep cleaning. I have a co-worker that is trying to talk me into one of the top end plasmas but I just don't see how this pic can be beaten, especially when it saves me $2,000, ha.
Thanks, Michael. I'll take it from here...
What you did 5 years ago was to bring your PS board just that much closer to a catastrophic event happening to it.
OWNERS OF THE AFFECTED PIONEER ELITE AND N0N-ELITE CRT HD SETS OF 1999-2001: YOU MUST NOT PARTIALLY RESOLDER YOUR PS BOARD!
Nor allow it to be resoldered partially by local service personnel. That is what they do, is fix what is wrong with your set with no thought of the future. They take - and get to keep - your money, because it will outlast their warranty period.
But it won't be permanently fixed.
This is an absolute. Just resoldering what's bad now brings to center stage the more dangerous cold solder connections that usually happen AFTER the initial ones, leaving your set much more vulverable than it was before. Resoldering whatever is going to go bad then AND LATER is the bottom line of my resoldering protocol, which I guaranty for life after I do it to your board: I FUTURE PROOF IT.
That's the only permanent cure for this issue. If you simply resolder the ones that you find bad at the time, sometime later little by little the rest of them will go, eventually taking your set down much harder. I have seen magnificent Pioneer Elite CRT sets totaled because of this. That is what is happening to your set now. You are on very thin ice. DO NOT ALLOW YOUR SET BACK UP TO NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE, EVEN ONCE, WHILE IN THIS CONDITION. RUN IT FOR NO LONGER THAN 40 SECONDS, FOR TESTING ONLY, UNTIL THIS SITUATION IS RESOLVED ON A PERMANENT BASIS.
That way it can't possibly warm up.
You have been warned.
You will find the results of more than 7 years worth of research done on this phenom at my youtube video on the subject:
To answer your question, the brown stuff is simply the resin contained in all lead-based electronics grade solder, it's not a problem to leave there.
The spaces you pointed to in your pix are just the plating. They are not important to resolder.
What is important is to recognize how thin the ice is over where you are, on this issue. Don't be a cowboy in there, put me on your team and let's save your set PERMANENTLY
and then proceed to making it look absolutely stunning.
bEdited by Mr Bob - 10/31/13 at 2:45pm