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Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 401

post #12001 of 12305
It might be a good idea to start a thread at the "audio/receivers" side of the forum. I'm sure over there folks would helps us discerned the receivers with component out. This way we can keep this thread for RPCRT discussion.
post #12002 of 12305
401 and counting!!! smile.gif
post #12003 of 12305

As importantly, 12000 posts! Wow.

post #12004 of 12305
Ah, well my original question, which I'm returning to after a detour due to mental roadwork, is whether any forum members have experience in using PS3s as both Blu-Ray players and game consoles with their HD CRT RPTVs. My 65813 is not entirely component as it has a very good DVI port. PS3s have component ports, but the PS4 will not.

Congratulations on the longevity of this thread, Bob!
post #12005 of 12305
^^^

I use the PS3 for bluray playing (and now streaming Netflix, Amazon, etc) and my son uses it for game play. I just watch when he plays, I'm terrible with video games, get so confused with the buttons... so watching him play is my playing role smile.gif

I've done the shimming op for overscan, so I have no issues with scores being cut off and the like, that might be an issue with some games on a regular set with more than 5% of overscan .
post #12006 of 12305
Out of academic curiosity I did post the AVR question in the AVR thread which, as you know, is under the Audio rubric.

There. I used rubric on the thread. I wonder if that's a first.

Anyway, the PS3 will, I take it, feed 1080i Blu-Rays into our sets via component if desired.
Correcto?
post #12007 of 12305
Correctisimo... 1080i via component. 1080P/i via HDMI (can be set from video setup).
post #12008 of 12305
Muchas gracias, Senor.
post #12009 of 12305
Taichi just buy a HDMI to DVI cable (very cheap at Parts Express) and route the audio using optical cable. If going through a receiver use HDMI from the PS4 to receiver and then the HDMI to DVI cable from the receiver to the RPTV.
post #12010 of 12305
I have had such a cable running from my DVD player to my Mits since getting my retro HDTV, but one runs into clumsy situations...
post #12011 of 12305
Regarding the lack of HDMI (even if I have DVI on my 65813), a PS4 has no analog audio output, only optical digital. The Mits only has analog L/R input. (Yes I am currently relying on my internal speakers). The Mits does have digital coaxial output which can be converted to optical out I believe, but that's no help. Thus my interest in HDFury III/IV, as they can output analog audio.

The HDFury IV claims to be able to display 3D on ANY HD display. On the list of supported modes I saw 1080i. In typical technobabble there is a reference in a different context to 720P *which most of our sets do not have), but again HDFury claims active 3D on ANY HD display. I thought the Moome was capable of that as well.

Any knowledge or opinion on this? It would be cool and interesting if 3D could be displayed on our "Classic" TVs.
post #12012 of 12305
I have the HD Fury 3 and it's one of the best purchases I've done.
Get it (or the 4) and you won't be sorry at all! I don't use the analog audio so I can't comment on that.
I have a 2002 Mits 55"
post #12013 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Dang you guys have kept this thread busy since my last post. On page 400!

eek.gif


No time right now to survey it all, but I can't wait! We may get to 500 pages after all!

cool.gif
Edited by Mr Bob - 11/18/13 at 2:12pm
post #12014 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Dang you guys have kept this thread busy since my last post. On page 400!

eek.gif


No time right now to survey it all, but I can't wait! We may get to 500 pages after all!

cool.gif

I'm sorry, do we know you?

post #12015 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

I'm sorry, do we know you?



Uhh... And who are you if I may ask? biggrin.gif
post #12016 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Ain't that just the way. You give 'em birth and they leave you behind...

biggrin.gif

b
post #12017 of 12305
Thread Starter 
BTW, there is a fully operational Pioneer 610HD in Menlo Park available for free. He was going to part it out and I have convinced him to hang onto it a little longer while I find a new home for it. I tried my Le Tip group and the only call I got was from someone who learned about it secondhand and thought it was a flat panel.

If you want to know how good these babies can look, check out page 45 of the Pioneer Elite PRO 510 Problem thread. Screenshots, Post 1325

http://www.avsforum.com/t/402397/pioneer-elite-pro-510-problem/1320

FREE! Fully operational! 58" Pioneer Elite CRT. No better price on the planet. Just pick it up! Once you get it I'm totally OK on your having me dial it in for you, it's real close by to me. But for now, hop on it because he wants it gone. And believe me, people in Menlo Park know how to take care of their toys. It's a very posh neighborhood over on the peninsula, here in the Bay Area.

Call me -

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 11/18/13 at 4:47pm
post #12018 of 12305
So back on page 398 (if memory serves), I wrote about cleaning up my Hitachi and being amazed at the picture. Well now that I've done that I think I'm ready (and might even have the time) to tackle the burn in. Since writing this I've added Plex to my Blu-Ray player so I can put pictures, video files etc. etc. on the tv from my computer. I tried connecting the computer directly up to the set using HDMI but it looked horrible! Through the Blu-Ray it looks great with the movies I have stored on the computer. So with that in mind, what would be best way to create a picture/video to "erase" the burn in I have from 4:3 on a 16:9 screen?
post #12019 of 12305
Thread Starter 
The best way I have heard of is to use Powerpoint, and create an opposing/negative image to "burn" whatever has not been burned yet.

Remember, screenburn is defined as "uneven phosphor aging". So you have to age the rest of your screen to match the current status of the inner section being more aged than the side bars, which stayed black and thus non-aged. The black bars need to have an all-white pattern while the inner 4x3 section needs to stay virgin black.

Then feather the edges, once it's close, so you won't have a line of demarcation between the 2 areas.

b
post #12020 of 12305
What I've done so far is to make two publisher files which I've saved as GIFs. One us a pure white screen so that I can mark with masking tape exactly where the line starts, the other with a black middle and white sides. I can easily toggle back and forth between the two to gauge my progress. I measured it out and created the image to what I thought it should be. It was pretty close but I think I need to expand it just a bit so I'm right on top of the original burned in lines. Or should I be just inside or outside them so I can feather it as necessary? I'll snap some pics.
post #12021 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Once you've burned something in you can't get it back, so be very careful. Better to undershoot than overshoot, with resulting overlap. If that overlap became noticeable it would be because it was darker, and the entire screen would then have to be darkened to match those 2 overlap lines.

b
post #12022 of 12305
I'm not sure how much detail can be seen, it's really difficult to get a good picture of a TV in my experience. I do have some horizontal lines toward the top and bottom but the ones on the sides are the most noticeable. If this goes well I'll worry about the other lines. Now once I have similarly aged the outsides of the screen would I maybe use some grey in the area where dark and light meet to blend it in?



post #12023 of 12305
Just had a look at how the pic look online...........they don't do it justice. I need to work on my photography! rolleyes.gif
post #12024 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Once you've burned something in you can't get it back, so be very careful. Better to undershoot than overshoot, with resulting overlap. If that overlap became noticeable it would be because it was darker, and the entire screen would then have to be darkened to match those 2 overlap lines.

b

So by taking the black center ever so slightly beyond the original lines I would be safer than making the center smaller correct? And I guess I should NOT be leaving it on overnight.
post #12025 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inno View Post


So by taking the black center ever so slightly beyond the original lines I would be safer than making the center smaller correct? And I guess I should NOT be leaving it on overnight.

The first part of that is correct.

My guess (and that is exactly what it is) is that it will take a very long time to get the phosphors "evened up." It probably took many hundreds of hours for the burn-in to become noticeable.

But I would definitely err on the conservative side.

And using gray would be useless; just use black for a shorter period of time.

Yes, taking good pictures of a CRT is extremely difficult. I still haven't figured out how Leo and Bob do it, and I've been trying for years.

Good luck.

Michael

post #12026 of 12305
I'm not really sure how long it would take to cause the damage. I guess it would vary depending on the brightness of the crts and also by the brightness and contrast settings of the set. When I was a tech. working on these sets, I remember a customer with a 57" who had it less than 6 months and had burn in because his wife ran a daycare and always had it in 4:3 and kept the factory "retina burn" settings. He was a hockey fan so the bright white screen really showed it off nicely. Even though the user documentation warned against this, he complained enough and we ended up replacing at least 2 of the crts, maybe all of them, can't remember. Not sure if we picked up the tab or if Hitachi did, I suspect Hitachi did not.
post #12027 of 12305

That would be "commercial use," not covered by warranty.

I hope he was a VERY good customer.

post #12028 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inno View Post

So by taking the black center ever so slightly beyond the original lines I would be safer than making the center smaller correct? And I guess I should NOT be leaving it on overnight.

Correct on the first. On the second, yes it took many years for it to grind in there, but now you are using balls to the wall white, not average light levels like you did for years. So it will take a lot shorter time for image burn in those all white areas. Contrast affects it too, as that is your overall light level. Pushing contrast control up and down will throttle the effect up and down for you.

I would keep an eagle eye on it and only do overnight if you have studied how it's come so far, each day. Remember, I have never done this myself, so have no experience at it..

When you're done and have very little difference between the 2 areas, then some gray on the line itself might be OK. But like Michael says, for the meat of the op, use full b/w.

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 11/19/13 at 12:02pm
post #12029 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Well I don't pretend to be an authority, I have never even owned a cycle myself, have rarely ridden one. But last time I looked the battery seemed to be the same size as the ones I see in the UPS's...

smile.gif

b

No problem Bob. I trust that I did not offend you but a battery for a bike also needs amperage that a CPU does not.
post #12030 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Good point!

wink.gif

b
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