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Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 401
Gear mentioned in this thread:
Congratulations on the longevity of this thread, Bob!
I use the PS3 for bluray playing (and now streaming Netflix, Amazon, etc) and my son uses it for game play. I just watch when he plays, I'm terrible with video games, get so confused with the buttons... so watching him play is my playing role
I've done the shimming op for overscan, so I have no issues with scores being cut off and the like, that might be an issue with some games on a regular set with more than 5% of overscan .
The HDFury IV claims to be able to display 3D on ANY HD display. On the list of supported modes I saw 1080i. In typical technobabble there is a reference in a different context to 720P *which most of our sets do not have), but again HDFury claims active 3D on ANY HD display. I thought the Moome was capable of that as well.
Any knowledge or opinion on this? It would be cool and interesting if 3D could be displayed on our "Classic" TVs.
If you want to know how good these babies can look, check out page 45 of the Pioneer Elite PRO 510 Problem thread. Screenshots, Post 1325
FREE! Fully operational! 58" Pioneer Elite CRT. No better price on the planet. Just pick it up! Once you get it I'm totally OK on your having me dial it in for you, it's real close by to me. But for now, hop on it because he wants it gone. And believe me, people in Menlo Park know how to take care of their toys. It's a very posh neighborhood over on the peninsula, here in the Bay Area.
Call me -
Edited by Mr Bob - 11/18/13 at 4:47pm
Remember, screenburn is defined as "uneven phosphor aging". So you have to age the rest of your screen to match the current status of the inner section being more aged than the side bars, which stayed black and thus non-aged. The black bars need to have an all-white pattern while the inner 4x3 section needs to stay virgin black.
Then feather the edges, once it's close, so you won't have a line of demarcation between the 2 areas.
Once you've burned something in you can't get it back, so be very careful. Better to undershoot than overshoot, with resulting overlap. If that overlap became noticeable it would be because it was darker, and the entire screen would then have to be darkened to match those 2 overlap lines.
So by taking the black center ever so slightly beyond the original lines I would be safer than making the center smaller correct? And I guess I should NOT be leaving it on overnight.
The first part of that is correct.
My guess (and that is exactly what it is) is that it will take a very long time to get the phosphors "evened up." It probably took many hundreds of hours for the burn-in to become noticeable.
But I would definitely err on the conservative side.
And using gray would be useless; just use black for a shorter period of time.
Yes, taking good pictures of a CRT is extremely difficult. I still haven't figured out how Leo and Bob do it, and I've been trying for years.
Correct on the first. On the second, yes it took many years for it to grind in there, but now you are using balls to the wall white, not average light levels like you did for years. So it will take a lot shorter time for image burn in those all white areas. Contrast affects it too, as that is your overall light level. Pushing contrast control up and down will throttle the effect up and down for you.
I would keep an eagle eye on it and only do overnight if you have studied how it's come so far, each day. Remember, I have never done this myself, so have no experience at it..
When you're done and have very little difference between the 2 areas, then some gray on the line itself might be OK. But like Michael says, for the meat of the op, use full b/w.
Edited by Mr Bob - 11/19/13 at 12:02pm
No problem Bob. I trust that I did not offend you but a battery for a bike also needs amperage that a CPU does not.
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