Originally Posted by montypythizzle
I have a Phillips 46PP9302, it's overscan with the HD DVR over component (Motorola 1080i) is rediculous, well not really, just half the ticker on the bottom of the screen on say channels like ABC is cutoff, and sometimes the screen like judders and you can see the top part of the picture, like the overscan info and such.
I am guessing either some part is going bad or the overscan needs fixed. Also, on the same input with a progressive scan DVD player it judders on fast moving scenes and produces like a blue outline on people when it happens well not blue outline but it goes crazy and I see blue.
On 480p material from the cable box when there is widescreen material SD it has larger boxes on top and smaller boxes on bottom so I think the pixture just needs moved up and squished on the sides, some logos are cut off.
This may just be a problem with how the box does stuff as the regular NTSC tuner on the TV didn't have any problems.
Also, what is the difference between user menu multi-point convergence and the SM MP convergence. It seems when I go in the SM the convergence goes haywire on the sides, is this normal, and the lines in the MP don't line up correctly so I canceled and thought I would ask here. Also, I see geometry in the other menu but all it has is some wide something and the default number was 6 or 7.
Regular NTSC and HD are 2 different scanrates completely, using 2 different memory banks in your set. What your set does on SD as far as geometry goes, tells you nothing about what it does on HD/1080i.
Overscan is built in to every CRT based RPTV. It is a given. If you want it remedied, reducing it is easy. Correcting how badly the picture gets hosed when you do so, is where the talent comes in. It takes several hours to do this op correctly, and lots and lots of previous experience in doing so - or at the very least, a hell of a lot of intuition and puzzle-solving ability - to really get it right. The learning curve on overscan reduction is intense, to say the least. Don't expect a repair tech, or any calibrator whose only training is ISF certification, to have a clue.
Been awhile since I did a Philips, so would have to be inside the sm to be able to tell you anything, but one thing I can tell you: DON'T EVER PUNCH THE "DEFAULT" SELECTION! This would wipe out all setup work done by the factory and restore it to fresh-off-the-assembly-line status. You do NOT want to do that. Schlocky as the setup presently may be, it would be infintitely more haphazard and in need of professional attention if you wipe out all the work the factory has done so far, in setting up your unit.
Calibration prices are predicated on altering and improving upon existing, mostly reasonably coherent setups, from the factory. Start needing "from scratch" work, and the prices will go up noticeably, if not dramatically, depending on how badly everything gets mixmastered, in there.
I realize that not everybody will want to just fly me in. If you want to send me the current service manual info, I am available for phone consultation, on all things related to the calibration process.