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Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 95

post #2821 of 11764
Hey thanks for the response Mr. Bob. Got an even better deal through Craigslist. Seller is moving out of country and has a two yr old Mit WS-65815 Diamond 9"CRT model. I took my son over last night and one look was enough for me to decide to get it Only issue will be transporting it up to my second floor apt.

Looking for a calibrator in the Central Texas area to calibrate both it and my 34XBR960.
post #2822 of 11764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WURGER View Post

Mr. Bob. Was watching a show when the picture went black. I noticed a nasty electrical smell ........... like something had "fried". The fans still run and the power switch led is lit, but no video at all. Any ideas? I love this beast and hate to lose it!!!!!!!!!

Sorry, stopped doing repairs on Philips when I spent 6 months trying to fix one of their boards when the owner was too cheap to spring for a new one.

You'll prolly need a tech in on this one.


Mr Bob
post #2823 of 11764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan244 View Post

Hey thanks for the response Mr. Bob. Got an even better deal through Craigslist. Seller is moving out of country and has a two yr old Mit WS-65815 Diamond 9"CRT model. I took my son over last night and one look was enough for me to decide to get it Only issue will be transporting it up to my second floor apt.

Looking for a calibrator in the Central Texas area to calibrate both it and my 34XBR960.

Doesn't the 65" Mit come apart? I believe both the 65" and the 73" did, the top half comes off.

Send me a plane ticket. I was just in Texas on a tour and would love to go back there and see some people I met there again -


Mr Bob
post #2824 of 11764
I'll check on it coming apart. That would really help out in moving. Dang it, you should have postponed your trip until now What part of Texas did you tour?
post #2825 of 11764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan244 View Post

I'll check on it coming apart. That would really help out in moving. Dang it, you should have postponed your trip until now What part of Texas did you tour?

Centered around DFW.
post #2826 of 11764
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan244 View Post

I'll check on it coming apart. That would really help out in moving. Dang it, you should have postponed your trip until now What part of Texas did you tour?

It comes apart
Here are the instructions for a WS65813. Its in the owners manual if you have one.
Yours probably is the same.
post #2827 of 11764
Thanks for the info. I printed it out. This should really help out in moving this up the stairs.
post #2828 of 11764
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan244 View Post

Thanks for the info. I printed it out. This should really help out in moving this up the stairs.

Glad to help.
I just hope these instructions work for your cabinet.
The WS 65813 is called chassis "V23"
Your WS 65815 I believe is called chassis "V25"

Good Luck and be careful.
post #2829 of 11764
Looks like they don't make replacement signal boards any more for my Toshiba 65HX83. Does anyone have a good PCB repair store they have used in the past for some trace repair?

After pulling the board, looks like 8 parallel 1/32" traces have been severed. Why Toshiba soldered a metal cage around a PCB plug-in module is beyond me.
post #2830 of 11764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiramAbiff View Post


Question about convergence: on my set's service menu, it seems to default to the "dynamic" (torch mode) setting on whatever picture is being displayed. This causes serious blooming on green convergence grid in the service convergence dealie. The blue one too, a little bit. It's improved after the focusing, but still enough to make it difficult to converge since it creates a wide margin of error. I have to go back and forth between the HD convergence patterns on DVE and the service convergence menu, which means turning the set off and on and not seeing instant results.

Any idea how to change default service menu picture settings on a Sammy?

Both conv and grayscale have to be aligned with MID light level, not Torch Mode. If the sm automatically defaults to full on contrast, and you can't use a grid or gray pattern that you can send in that's going to keep the action at midpoint on our light levels, you have to find the master contrast setting in the sm and turn it down for the duration of either sm event.

You can then turn it back up as you leave sm.


Mr Bob
post #2831 of 11764
The manual for the WS-65815 is available in PDF on the Mitubishi site. The instuctions for seperating the top and the bottom look identical to the ones posted above.
post #2832 of 11764
249 lbs?

That's what scares me about if I ever upgrade my current set to a larger (55-60") CRT RPTV (you know, if a tube dies).
post #2833 of 11764
I'm hoping Mr. Bob, or one of you other guys may be able to help me figure out my problem. I have an old Sony KP-61XBR28 that I got for free because the original owner replaced it with a new set. The TV has a problem where after a while the colors will get messed up and everything has a blue/green tint to it. It's almost like the red CRT gun quits putting out a picture. Here are a couple photos of it working properly, and then with the colors messed up.







Any ideas on what the problem might be, and how I might be able to fix it? I'm pretty good with tools, but if it comes down to soldering I'd probably have someone else do it (my hands are too shaky).
post #2834 of 11764
HiramAbiff, I was kinda worried about the bulk/weight factor myself. Especially since I live on the second floor of an apt building. However, with the ability to separate the CRT RPTVs it makes it much more manageable. Just make sure you buy one that can separate.
post #2835 of 11764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiramAbiff View Post

249 lbs?

That's what scares me about if I ever upgrade my current set to a larger (55-60") CRT RPTV (you know, if a tube dies).


Tubes can always be found - and/or resurfaced! - at Video Display Corp.

Tubes cannot be relied upon to die. Ever. They virtually never do. Sorry, can't use that excuse!




They may eventually wear out, after years and years and years - 10 years minimum, at regular usage at midcontrast, which is 40% up on the Mit bargraph - but dying? They pretty much never do.


Mr Bob
post #2836 of 11764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beerstalker View Post

It's almost like the red CRT gun quits putting out a picture. Here are a couple photos of it working properly, and then with the colors messed up.

Any ideas on what the problem might be, and how I might be able to fix it? I'm pretty good with tools, but if it comes down to soldering I'd probably have someone else do it (my hands are too shaky).

If it's intermittent, it's a bad connection somewhere, usually a cold solder joint. Components themselves usually don't give it up internally, on an intermittent basis.


Mr Bob
post #2837 of 11764
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

If it's intermittent, it's a bad connection somewhere, usually a cold solder joint. Components themselves usually don't give it up internally, on an intermittent basis.


Mr Bob


That makes sense. Any suggestions on how to track down where the issue might be?
post #2838 of 11764
Ivan244, on the Mits you are looking at I do not think the manual shows the connects that have to be unplugged between the screen and lower unit. The screen now has the switched and front interface built into the screen so when you seperate you will need to disconnect 3 or so cables, you will see them when you take the speaker covers off. No big deal but be careful.

On another posting I offered some tips on moving the 65" as I moved my 73" last summer in 1 piece but since you have to go up stairs that may not be pratical.
post #2839 of 11764
There are no connections between the top and bottom on this one. Just pull the four screws and the top comes off.
post #2840 of 11764
Mr. Bob,

I have a 2003 model Mitsu WS65411. The overscan has not been adjusted. Could I do the shimming mod or is the set too old?

Thanks

Mark
post #2841 of 11764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxlou View Post

Mr. Bob,

I have a 2003 model Mitsu WS65411. The overscan has not been adjusted. Could I do the shimming mod or is the set too old?

Thanks

Mark

No such thing as too old.

Pretty sure yes, have not done one of your model number, only mine. For a 65", you'll need about 1.25" of shim, and will need to recenter red and blue and do all sorts of refocusing, geometry and convergence.

But it'll be worth it, I am sure -


Mr Bob

PS -

You will also need to establish whether shimming the CRTs closer to the mirror causes ANY edges of the CRT to show on the screen. Mine did not, but yours might. If so, and you can't move the array back and forth or up and down enough to cause that to NOT happen, you may not be able to shim that set.
post #2842 of 11764
Quote:
Originally Posted by thsmith View Post

Ivan244, on the Mits you are looking at I do not think the manual shows the connects that have to be unplugged between the screen and lower unit. The screen now has the switched and front interface built into the screen so when you seperate you will need to disconnect 3 or so cables, you will see them when you take the speaker covers off. No big deal but be careful.

On another posting I offered some tips on moving the 65" as I moved my 73" last summer in 1 piece but since you have to go up stairs that may not be pratical.

I downloaded the pdf for the model and on step 5 it does state to disconnect LF-ZF wire. I'll keep a lookout for any other wires. Thanks for the heads up
post #2843 of 11764
The only real PITA about CRT is what I just finished doing...Convergence!!! Glad it isn't often but still plays hell on the ole eyeballs...I'm still seeing grid lines after converging 2 inputs on my Toshiba... Still need to do the ANT input but since I rarely use that input anymore other than cartoons for the kids...it isn't a priority like the HD DVD input...But when its all said and done...WOW!!! Like looking thru a (clean) window again...

If your convergence hasn't been checked in a few months...check it...Easy to do...Just look at lettering from movies and see if the letters are outlined in blue or red or green...If they are...a convergence touch-up as a minimum is in order...
post #2844 of 11764
My tv's problem is that it doesn't seem to have a separate convergence for the S-Video input. If I change user convergence while watching something on s-video, it messes with the convergence on the component inputs. Does this mean I'm screwed for s-video, or is it that I need to do a service convergence on s-video in order for the convergence settings to be kept separate?
post #2845 of 11764
To do the convergence properly...you should go into the service menu and calibrate each input independently...Make sure you have a HD source being input on the digital and/or component inputs...480i source on 'S' video and composite and antenna (cable) inputs...
post #2846 of 11764
Quote:
Originally Posted by samsterdog View Post

It was found that I dislodged one of the 2.7MH coils at the bottom right of the board. I have ordered a new part from Mits and hope to have it changed out on Wednesday. Crossin' my fingers. Thanks for your response.

As it turns out, I ordered the wrong part. It is actually some very small inductor (ref L9B21) that is not even listed in the service manual. I have a feeling it's not repairable. Does anyone know if this part is available, and if not, where I can potentially find a used DM, and if necessary, a new DM (Mits won't sell one to me because I'm a consumer, not an authorized repair center).
post #2847 of 11764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beerstalker View Post




Any ideas on what the problem might be, and how I might be able to fix it? I'm pretty good with tools, but if it comes down to soldering I'd probably have someone else do it (my hands are too shaky).


I would start, unit off and unplugged, at the red CRT socket bd and see if any of the conn's on it have gone cold solder visually. You don't have to remove the bd, just unplug it from the CRT prongs and check it out, fully wired up. Be careful, there will still be some live voltages on it, even tho unplugged from the wall.

If not I would put it back on the CRT prongs, turn the unit on, and very carefully wiggle the board by its edge, to see if you can make the red come and go.

Touch JUST the edge. Don't EVER go in to live circuitry with an open hand. Even if you are going to touch something that might be live, touch with the BACKS of your fingers, not the fronts, where HV might cause you to clench, thus sealing your fate. If HV hits the backs of your fingers and you clench, at least you clench AWAY from the circuitry.

As such, this is best left to a qualified, experienced service tech, used to HV and who knows how to handle it, as further searching for the problem has to be done on LIVE circuitry, while watching for the problem to get triggered, one way or the other.

If your soldering skills are adequate, completely resoldering the red CRT socket bd might do the trick. Unit unplugged from the wall, of course.

Or the bad conn might be elsewhere in the unit, requiring poking around in there at other boards with a NON conductive poking device, but with the unit ON, which might be hazardous to your health.


Since you got it free, you might want to invest in a repair from your local qualified service repair tech's services on this one. There are literally dozens of places in the unit where the red chain of events could be losing its connection.

On the bright side, when it works it works fine. This is not an awe-inspiring, stump the technician kind of problem!




It's simply a make or break of a connection, somewhere in there.


Mr Bob
post #2848 of 11764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

The only real PITA about CRT is what I just finished doing...Convergence!!! Glad it isn't often but still plays hell on the ole eyeballs...I'm still seeing grid lines after converging 2 inputs on my Toshiba... Still need to do the ANT input but since I rarely use that input anymore other than cartoons for the kids...it isn't a priority like the HD DVD input...But when its all said and done...WOW!!! Like looking thru a (clean) window again...

If your convergence hasn't been checked in a few months...check it...Easy to do...Just look at lettering from movies and see if the letters are outlined in blue or red or green...If they are...a convergence touch-up as a minimum is in order...

Oh yes...

Are your optics pristinely clean? That's important too. If enough run time has happened as to cause drift to your conv, chances are your optics have glopped up real good too by now -


Mr Bob

PS - that f'ing Matt Damon clip is hilarious!

post #2849 of 11764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiramAbiff View Post

My tv's problem is that it doesn't seem to have a separate convergence for the S-Video input. If I change user convergence while watching something on s-video, it messes with the convergence on the component inputs. Does this mean I'm screwed for s-video, or is it that I need to do a service convergence on s-video in order for the convergence settings to be kept separate?

Conv is always done by the scanrate, not the input. S is 480i, so is composite, so is the SD tuner, which of course all get changed to 480p by the set. i and p are the same on conv, in 480.

Component can be anything.

480 and 1080 are the 2 scanrates you need to dial in. 480i can have different aspect ratios, which you might also have to dial in separately. 480p and 720p/1080i usually lock in on FULL except in the newest of the new CRT RPTVs, before they stopped making them.


Mr Bob
post #2850 of 11764
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by samsterdog View Post

As it turns out, I ordered the wrong part. It is actually some very small inductor (ref L9B21) that is not even listed in the service manual. I have a feeling it's not repairable. Does anyone know if this part is available, and if not, where I can potentially find a used DM, and if necessary, a new DM (Mits won't sell one to me because I'm a consumer, not an authorized repair center).

Coils like that are very low voltage/current, sure you can't pry loose some part of the wire, solder an extension wire to it, and resolder it back in there? As long as you have solid conn, it should still do its job -

If you need someone to get you that board from Mit, contact me directly (not by pm please) and I'll arrange it -


Mr Bob
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