Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 101

There are no bulbs in your set. There are 3 CRTs, one each of red, green and blue.

The chance that it is a blown CRT are nil to none. CRTs virtually never blow, they usually hang in there for good and are usually still very much alive and well when the set is eventually put down. Something else is most likely the cause, here.

They are not easy to fix, tho, once something bad has happened to them, I personally won't work on one except for the convergence, because they are extremely technician unfriendly.


That said, the older TW series Tosh's had the incredible Designer service menu in addition to the regular sm, which D menu was later disco'd in favor of a much simpler and much more highly disguised regular sm, where if you didn't have the key, you wouldn't know the registers because they were no longer labeled. Just ID'd with totally generic hex numbers.

Your series of unit was the one Runco chose to be their flagship CRT RPTV at the time, great things can be done with it.

Very few calibrators will be able to really do it justice, tho, as very few present day calibrators know CRT tech very well, only us old-timers.

I typically find 2 of the 3 lenses on the typical CRT RPTV to be out of focus OOB, the grayscale will have drifted substantially over time even tho it may have been perfect OOB, and the convergence will have drifted off substantially as well, by now.

While the set doesn't have an awful lot of red push (blue-green diminish when fleshtones are prioritized) compared to lots of other brands, it can be totally realigned in the Designer menu. It could also benefit from overscan reduction.


If you want the best performance your set will deliver, you'll need to fly someone in. Plain and simple. Be ready for that and be shopping for who you want to do the job.

I vote me, because I have done many of the TW series and know the Designer menu inside and out. I can make your set look absolutey stunning. But you'll have to get it fixed first.

Good luck in any case, your set is excellent and capable of greatness -



Mr Bob

See Leonard's thread.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...html#post43725


Mr Bob

The prob you've described has nothing to do with SVM, which is ee, not bad convergence or geometry, which is what you said was the problem.

See Leonard's thread -

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...html#post43725


Mr Bob

Note -

Often the legs of the conv ICs go cold solder, as the ICs get ungodly hot in there, and with constant expansion and contraction with every turn on/turn off, eventually cold solder joints form.

Resoldering these IC legs should always be the first line of defense. If the set has not been run in that bad condition for too long, the ICs might be able to be totally saved and not need replacement.

If that doesn't work, plan B is Leonard's thread.


Mr Bob

Sorry, you're right you weren't talking about fixing something, just redoing your geometry and convergence.

I am available for phone consultation on such things, and yes I have worked on about every Mit HDready they've made. Perhaps the guys here can point you in the right direction.

The SPot has some great stuff on this, once you become a member.

Some pointers - the Mit point sys is designed to stay averaged around zero, and zeroing out all points before you start gives you the best picture later. However, doing so becomes an immense task and I don't recommend it for everybody. It is not for the faint of heart...

There are some regs in there in the geometry section that will never be at zero, like the TBPC, which will always be in the hundreds, the Keys, and the HWID, which should always be left where the factory set it. Yes you can zero it, but doing so really increases your workload later.


Mr Bob

Folks in the Chicago area -

I am in MN doing a cal tour as we speak, and a guy in Chicago wants to get a few others on board with him to have me do a side trip there from here, while I am in the midwest. If you have been wanting to get your CRT RPTV really tricked out and are in or close to either Chicago or Minneapolis/St. Paul, listen up, because I'm there if you want my services. Here right now, actually, in the case of MN...

This also goes for only optics cleaning, if that's all you need, and fixed pixel calibration as well.

Whatever you decide to have done, it helps the travel expense bottom line if you have it done now, while I am already nearby. You don't have to pay full boat on getting me to your place, and you help out others, who then don't either.

See post 1318, at this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...402397&page=44


Mr Bob