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Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 101

post #3001 of 12305
I too was going to purchase a new tv as my 6 1/2 yr old RCA 61" model D61130 was getting dull and out of date. After reading some of this thread I cleaned the lenses and mirror (never been cleaned or serviced) and it looks great.

Do I really need to calibrate this tv?
The closest ISF certified calibrators are over 70 miles away. They charge $200 xtra to travel on top of about $500 more to do the work. Also how would I know if the person is really knowledgeable on my particular TV brand and model? They don't sell RCA in their shop but said they do service them. I've call local places and they say "if it aint broke dont fix it".

Can I buy one of those DVD calibration programs that would at least help some? If so which one as there are several out there?
post #3002 of 12305
Can someone please tell me what size guns are in the Mits WS-65819.

TIA
post #3003 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by NateTTU View Post

So in a last ditch effort I'm frantically searching for a big tv to stick in the small spare bedroom and turn it into a home theater.

I did exactly this to create my "Narnia Theater". See my Sig.
post #3004 of 12305
In the middle of a DVD my TW65X81 screen went blank and the power indicator lamp on the front of the set began to flash. Audio remained fine.

This old CRT set has provided ten years of trouble free service and I would not mind upgrading to newer technology BUT I'd rather wait a bit longer to see how the 2008 offerings pan out. Nobody local will do a housecall on the set to diagnose the problem. Getting it to the service center and back will cost around $200 plus unknown repair charges if indeed it is economical to fix it.

So, the questions are:
1. Does this sound like it might just be a blown bulb? How can I check out that possibility? I don't have a service manual. Is bulb replacement something a tech challenged owner can do?
2. If it is a bulb, what is the approximate replacement cost?

I am leery of dumping too much money in a ten year old RPTV but I wouldn't mind investing a bit of cash to extend its' life another six months or so.

Any insight, comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
post #3005 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

If you can extend your range a little, you can get a 57 inch hitachi here:
http://www.uecweb.com/index.php?p=pr...d=293&parent=0
and you'll be VERY happy.

FREE SHIPPING?!

I may have to think about that....... It will likely be sold out by the time I'm able to save up that kind of money.
post #3006 of 12305
What's up ppl I'm new to the forums & have a question about re-focusing the guns on my Mitsubishi wt42313 which has a convergence problem the problem is I can't seem to converge the right or left edges of the screen & there's some blue & yellow halo effects I've opened it & cleaned the mirror & the guns it helped a little but it's still noticeable I don't really want to get a new tv because the tv has a great picture when aligned properly can this be fixed reasonably
post #3007 of 12305
You have SVM turned off, right?
post #3008 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiramAbiff View Post

You have SVM turned off, right?

It's probably on it doesn't have a option for it & I don't know the code to get access to the service menu do you know the service menu code
post #3009 of 12305
okay so I found the service code it's 0357 now how do I turn off svm
post #3010 of 12305
LOL I've answered myself again I have a new question if anyone would like to help I've entered service mode & taken off svm it helped a lot but it's still there I can't seem to find how to adjust the screens vertical, horizontal width's & heights can anyone answer this for me
post #3011 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by puckhead View Post

Can someone please tell me what size guns are in the Mits WS-65819.

Not the most authoritative, but this site lists 7" CRTs. -- Johh
post #3012 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Mason View Post

Not the most authoritative, but this site lists 7" CRTs. -- Johh

Thank you for finding that.
post #3013 of 12305
Hey Guys,

I have a Hitachi 53SWX01W which I bought in 2001 and now I'm having this:





I had it inspected by PC Richards and it costs me $80 bucks to have them come out, and they said something is wrong with the circuit board I just can't remember what they said. They said the part was real cheap like $30 bucks for 2 things, but the labor was $300-$400 dollars.

Do you guys know what could be wrong and if you guys need, I could take a picture of the inside of the TV where the circuit board, and maybe you guys could point it out more directly of what needs to be replaced?

And does anyone know where I could buy the part for what I need if you guys know what it is?

Thanks in advance.

AznSoldier
post #3014 of 12305
Sounds like a classic convergence board problem. I'd shop around, frankly.
post #3015 of 12305
post #3016 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by AznSoldier View Post

Do you guys know what could be wrong and if you guys need, I could take a picture of the inside of the TV where the circuit board, and maybe you guys could point it out more directly of what needs to be replaced?

Besides the comprehensive article about convergence IC repair posted just above, someone else here posted a thread a while back illustrating, with many photos, how to replace the ICs and/or fuses/resistors involved. -- John
post #3017 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlelliott44 View Post

In the middle of a DVD my TW65X81 screen went blank and the power indicator lamp on the front of the set began to flash. Audio remained fine.

This old CRT set has provided ten years of trouble free service and I would not mind upgrading to newer technology BUT I'd rather wait a bit longer to see how the 2008 offerings pan out. Nobody local will do a housecall on the set to diagnose the problem. Getting it to the service center and back will cost around $200 plus unknown repair charges if indeed it is economical to fix it.

So, the questions are:
1. Does this sound like it might just be a blown bulb? How can I check out that possibility? I don't have a service manual. Is bulb replacement something a tech challenged owner can do?
2. If it is a bulb, what is the approximate replacement cost?

I am leery of dumping too much money in a ten year old RPTV but I wouldn't mind investing a bit of cash to extend its' life another six months or so.

Any insight, comments or suggestions would be appreciated.


There are no bulbs in your set. There are 3 CRTs, one each of red, green and blue.

The chance that it is a blown CRT are nil to none. CRTs virtually never blow, they usually hang in there for good and are usually still very much alive and well when the set is eventually put down. Something else is most likely the cause, here.

They are not easy to fix, tho, once something bad has happened to them, I personally won't work on one except for the convergence, because they are extremely technician unfriendly.


That said, the older TW series Tosh's had the incredible Designer service menu in addition to the regular sm, which D menu was later disco'd in favor of a much simpler and much more highly disguised regular sm, where if you didn't have the key, you wouldn't know the registers because they were no longer labeled. Just ID'd with totally generic hex numbers.

Your series of unit was the one Runco chose to be their flagship CRT RPTV at the time, great things can be done with it.

Very few calibrators will be able to really do it justice, tho, as very few present day calibrators know CRT tech very well, only us old-timers.

I typically find 2 of the 3 lenses on the typical CRT RPTV to be out of focus OOB, the grayscale will have drifted substantially over time even tho it may have been perfect OOB, and the convergence will have drifted off substantially as well, by now.

While the set doesn't have an awful lot of red push (blue-green diminish when fleshtones are prioritized) compared to lots of other brands, it can be totally realigned in the Designer menu. It could also benefit from overscan reduction.


If you want the best performance your set will deliver, you'll need to fly someone in. Plain and simple. Be ready for that and be shopping for who you want to do the job.

I vote me, because I have done many of the TW series and know the Designer menu inside and out. I can make your set look absolutey stunning. But you'll have to get it fixed first.

Good luck in any case, your set is excellent and capable of greatness -



Mr Bob
post #3018 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xiv_R_A_I_D_E_R_ View Post

What's up ppl I'm new to the forums & have a question about re-focusing the guns on my Mitsubishi wt42313 which has a convergence problem the problem is I can't seem to converge the right or left edges of the screen & there's some blue & yellow halo effects I've opened it & cleaned the mirror & the guns it helped a little but it's still noticeable I don't really want to get a new tv because the tv has a great picture when aligned properly can this be fixed reasonably

See Leonard's thread.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...html#post43725


Mr Bob
post #3019 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xiv_R_A_I_D_E_R_ View Post

LOL I've answered myself again I have a new question if anyone would like to help I've entered service mode & taken off svm it helped a lot but it's still there I can't seem to find how to adjust the screens vertical, horizontal width's & heights can anyone answer this for me

The prob you've described has nothing to do with SVM, which is ee, not bad convergence or geometry, which is what you said was the problem.

See Leonard's thread -

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...html#post43725


Mr Bob
post #3020 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Note -

Often the legs of the conv ICs go cold solder, as the ICs get ungodly hot in there, and with constant expansion and contraction with every turn on/turn off, eventually cold solder joints form.

Resoldering these IC legs should always be the first line of defense. If the set has not been run in that bad condition for too long, the ICs might be able to be totally saved and not need replacement.

If that doesn't work, plan B is Leonard's thread.


Mr Bob
post #3021 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

The prob you've described has nothing to do with SVM, which is ee, not bad convergence or geometry, which is what you said was the problem.

See Leonard's thread -

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...html#post43725


Mr Bob

The link you gave
me was broken I've read your solution to fixing IC problems but I don't think it's the IC's because I can move all my convergence lines without a problem
I probably just need to re-align the geometry & then do the convergence have you ever worked on my Mitsubishi model if so can you give some geometry numbers to stay within it also only does this in 1080i mode
post #3022 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xiv_R_A_I_D_E_R_ View Post

The link you gave
me was broken I've read your solution to fixing IC problems but I don't think it's the IC's because I can move all my convergence lines without a problem
I probably just need to re-align the geometry & then do the convergence have you ever worked on my Mitsubishi model if so can you give some geometry numbers to stay within it also only does this in 1080i mode

Sorry, you're right you weren't talking about fixing something, just redoing your geometry and convergence.

I am available for phone consultation on such things, and yes I have worked on about every Mit HDready they've made. Perhaps the guys here can point you in the right direction.

The SPot has some great stuff on this, once you become a member.

Some pointers - the Mit point sys is designed to stay averaged around zero, and zeroing out all points before you start gives you the best picture later. However, doing so becomes an immense task and I don't recommend it for everybody. It is not for the faint of heart...

There are some regs in there in the geometry section that will never be at zero, like the TBPC, which will always be in the hundreds, the Keys, and the HWID, which should always be left where the factory set it. Yes you can zero it, but doing so really increases your workload later.


Mr Bob
post #3023 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Folks in the Chicago area -

I am in MN doing a cal tour as we speak, and a guy in Chicago wants to get a few others on board with him to have me do a side trip there from here, while I am in the midwest. If you have been wanting to get your CRT RPTV really tricked out and are in or close to either Chicago or Minneapolis/St. Paul, listen up, because I'm there if you want my services. Here right now, actually, in the case of MN...

This also goes for only optics cleaning, if that's all you need, and fixed pixel calibration as well.

Whatever you decide to have done, it helps the travel expense bottom line if you have it done now, while I am already nearby. You don't have to pay full boat on getting me to your place, and you help out others, who then don't either.

See post 1318, at this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...402397&page=44


Mr Bob
post #3024 of 12305
To all Chicago area people that have Pioneer
problems or just want their set cleaned/calibrated:

I just spoke to Bob tonight. He is is MN caring for 6
different sets. He will finish up next Thurs. in MN.
I am trying to put together a visit to Chicago to do my
set and I am looking for individuals interested in
getting theirs serviced by Mr. Bob. He emailed me
the price list which I can forward if interested.
The MN people have already paid for his airline leg home
so all we would have to split is a roundtrip flight from MN
to Chicago.
SO WHO IS INTERESTED???
CONTACT ME IMMEDIATELY IF WE ARE GOING TO BE
ABLE TO PUT THIS TOGETHER. DON'T WAIT!
The guy I spoke to tonight was very satisfied with
his result.
Contact me soon at:
pitpro AT yahoo.com







Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Folks in the Chicago area -

I am in MN doing a cal tour as we speak, and a guy in Chicago wants to get a few others on board with him to have me do a side trip there from here, while I am in the midwest. If you have been wanting to get your CRT RPTV really tricked out and are in or close to either Chicago or Minneapolis/St. Paul, listen up, because I'm there if you want my services. Here right now, actually, in the case of MN...

This also goes for only optics cleaning, if that's all you need, and fixed pixel calibration as well.

Whatever you decide to have done, it helps the travel expense bottom line if you have it done now, while I am already nearby. You don't have to pay full boat on getting me to your place, and you help out others, who then don't either.

See post 1318, at this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...402397&page=44


Mr Bob
post #3025 of 12305
Great (lower) price for a 57 inch from the authorized refurb source for Hitachi:
Wish I had room for another!

http://www.uecweb.com/index.php?p=pr...d=293&parent=0

HiramAbiff, are you paying attention?!
post #3026 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

Great (lower) price for a 57 inch from the authorized refurb source for Hitachi:
Wish I had room for another!

http://www.uecweb.com/index.php?p=pr...d=293&parent=0

HiramAbiff, are you paying attention?!

I am, I am, but I have to pay rent first! It will be the middle of April before I could afford that.
post #3027 of 12305
Quick quesiton to Bob or anyone else who can answer... I love the picture of my Hitachi 57T500. That said, as clear as the picture can be in High Definition, I feel that it's sometimes soft or blurred... There isn't as much sharpness in the picture as I'd like. I've cranked up Sharpness to 55 but still without the kind of results I'm looking for. I feel it's really the only thing missing between me and a perfect picture

Would cleaning of the lens help in this regard or is there something else I've missed? Any feedback/suggestions would be appreciated.

PJStyles
post #3028 of 12305
Since this is a fairly active RPTV thread I thought I'd post this here -

I'm doing a convergence touchup (long overdue) on my Mitsubishi WS-65819. I Went into the service menu and did a fine convergence of Red (to the yellow grid) but when it came time to do the blue, it's really hard to see against that Cyan grid.
I seem to remember a way to turn off and on different guns so that I could converge the colors differently (blue to a green grid or a magenta grid or something more visible).

But the only service menu instructions I can find are for green (for geometry), Red (converged to yellow grid) and blue (converged to cyan grid)

Anyone know what I'm talking about? Or am I thinking of my old Toshiba RPTV?
post #3029 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by PJStyles View Post

Quick quesiton to Bob or anyone else who can answer... I love the picture of my Hitachi 57T500. That said, as clear as the picture can be in High Definition, I feel that it's sometimes soft or blurred... There isn't as much sharpness in the picture as I'd like. I've cranked up Sharpness to 55 but still without the kind of results I'm looking for. I feel it's really the only thing missing between me and a perfect picture

Would cleaning of the lens help in this regard or is there something else I've missed? Any feedback/suggestions would be appreciated.

PJStyles

Gotta do cleaning and focusing. I'm tired and not in the mood to type a big long thing about how to do this, but here are the short points:

1) You access the electrostatic focusing via the knobs under the front panel
2) You access the lenses for cleaning via the screen (4 screws NOTHING MORE)
3) You can do the optical focusing from the back if you take off the bottom back panel--at least you can on my tv. I can reach up under the mirror and access the wingnuts and barrel, so I don't need to keep removing and replacing the screen as I check my optical focusing.
post #3030 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by JaredB View Post

Since this is a fairly active RPTV thread I thought I'd post this here -

I'm doing a convergence touchup (long overdue) on my Mitsubishi WS-65819. I Went into the service menu and did a fine convergence of Red (to the yellow grid) but when it came time to do the blue, it's really hard to see against that Cyan grid.
I seem to remember a way to turn off and on different guns so that I could converge the colors differently (blue to a green grid or a magenta grid or something more visible).

But the only service menu instructions I can find are for green (for geometry), Red (converged to yellow grid) and blue (converged to cyan grid)

Anyone know what I'm talking about? Or am I thinking of my old Toshiba RPTV?

Uh, blue and green make cyan, so there is no cyan grid until they are converged. But you're right, blue is hard to see against cyan, so I tend to align it with red (after aligning red with green), then check my work on an HD cyan grid off the DVE disc. Do this through a service convergence. Codes and controls are different for all tvs. And yes, you ought to be able to turn guns on and off with this.
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