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Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 104

post #3091 of 11731
I've recently acquired a Mits WS-65813 that had minimal use and will soon get it calibrated. In the meantime I have gotten an ota antenna installed on my roof and the coax is run directly to the Mits' built in tuner.

In the near future I intend on getting the Emotiva UMC-1 processor and hooking up a dvd player to it then running a dvi/hdmi cable to the Mits.

Should I continue to use the built in tuner or should I opt for a quality external tuner? I imagine that current new tuners allow for faster channel changing, but have there been many more improvements in video quality or anything else that would convince me to get one?

Thanks.
post #3092 of 11731
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

You will notice a difference. Will you care? Depends.
HD is better defined than SD (I'm very careful not to say "sharper") and the sound is better. I have spent a bunch of money on discounted HD discs, but that doesn't mean it's worth it to everyone. You may want to upconvert for now and wait for whatever is on the horizon (probably downloads).

Fantastic 4 (SD, upconverted):



Sahara (HD):



Aeon Flux (HD):


Michael, could you do a shot of the SAME pic in both formats for us, so we can AB them? And is this upconverted via HDMI or via a hacked Oppo doing component?

The real test is whether upconverted via component on an HD DVDP is as good as upconverted via component from a hacked Oppo or vice versa. Or my hacked Samsung 841. Or my non-hacked LiteOn LVD 2001, which puts out 1080i on component effortlessly and with no hacking necessary. When it's working - mine failed and I have not had a chance to get at fixing it, so it's in mothballs for now...



You can't upconvert via component with an HD DVDP without several hundred in add-ons to transcode the HDMI to component, so that's not on the table in this discussion -

Awesome pix, BTW! You finally have your blacks clamping to black correctly, with crystal clear optics both on your set and on your camera. And a great focusing job, considering your cam is prolly auto focus, that was my downfall on my earlier pix -

I just want to reach out and touch Jessica on that first one...




Mr Bob
post #3093 of 11731
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JaredB View Post

Understood and agreed in principle, but just to be clear for anyone needing this info for their Oppo player, it is in fact the BRIGHTNESS setting that you'll want to back off on in its setup menu. It surprised me as well (for the reasons Mr. Bob clearly stated) and its one of the reasons it took so long for me to solve this problem. Whether or not the oppo has these settings mislabeled (maybe swapped by mistake?) I don't know, but I can tell you that the brightness setting adjustment will fix the flashing/dimming/picture instability and the contrast setting will not.
This was on my player and mits TV, your mileage may vary.

Maybe Oppo has decided they've had enough of this misnomer! Wouldn't blame them -





Mr Bob
post #3094 of 11731
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by minetoo View Post

Thanks for answering so quick. I set my Oppo +0-0 and I used AVIA to set it up. Some of the scenes in some movies are different. You can see things in other rooms. small things where as before you didn't even know there was a room. In the movie Live free or die Hard. after they blow up his room. is amazing It is well lit but great just the same. Thanks again ps I will keep what I have untill my mits. craps out. then I look for a newer one with 9" guns and maybe 73" screen. maybe I'll be able to find 2005 for cheep because the owner can't stand not haveing 1080p.

Anything after their initial entry model year - the xxx03 series, which was not quite ready for prime time - would be a marvelous buy in a Mit.

Keep a full screen 16x9 white or gray pattern with you when you shop, to examine it for screenburn, and get verification of relatively low usage hours, rather than having had it be used as the baby sitter all day and night every day.

And that it has not been in Torch Mode forever, which is what is Mits's default setting for contrast.

Remember, midpoint is already 80-90% up, on the Mit contrast bargraph. Halfway up is around the 35-40% mark.


Mr Bob
post #3095 of 11731
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlelliott44 View Post

Thank you very much for your reply and the information. I will see if I can find someone capable of diagnosing and repairing the set, but I am not optimistic. Southern Alabama isn't exactly a Mecca for people with such skills. I have yet to find anyone willing to come to the house to look at it. I was never unhappy with the PQ on this set, but I attribute that to the fact that I have never seen one that had been professionally calibrated.
Thanks again for taking the time to answer my question and to educate me.

You got it.

I was working on one of those years ago on my Texas cal tour at the time, and we got that pic scorchingly good looking, played with the color decoding, the sharpness, it's all there in the Designer Mode. Till it went down, and it took the owner a couple of months before it was back up again. He delayed reporting it till he had gotten his ESP in place, which he had been working on doing and just hadn't done yet, so he got it serviced on his ESP plan.

I like those sets a lot -

You might call Tosh directly and see what they can do about sending over their most qualified tech for your area -


Mr Bob
post #3096 of 11731
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by acesea View Post

I've recently acquired a Mits WS-65813 that had minimal use and will soon get it calibrated. In the meantime I have gotten an ota antenna installed on my roof and the coax is run directly to the Mits' built in tuner.

In the near future I intend on getting the Emotiva UMC-1 processor and hooking up a dvd player to it then running a dvi/hdmi cable to the Mits.

Should I continue to use the built in tuner or should I opt for a quality external tuner? I imagine that current new tuners allow for faster channel changing, but have there been many more improvements in video quality or anything else that would convince me to get one?

Thanks.

No change in video quality that I know of. That Mit built-in ATSC tuner delivers 1080i like nobody's business, as good as anything else I have seen out there.

The 813 is an awesome unit, as long as you don't try to change anything about the sm Br settings, and just use the best User setting for detail in dark areas. For my 517, which I believe is the same chassis, that is Br 41-45, Contrast -21. You might be able to get away with -18 contrast since you have the glass mirror and I have the mylar one.


Buy one that is no fault returnable, and try them out against each other -


Mr Bob
post #3097 of 11731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Michael, could you do a shot of the SAME pic in both formats for us, so we can AB them? And is this upconverted via HDMI or via a hacked Oppo doing component?

Nice pix, BTW! I just want to reach out and touch that first one.



Your Aeon Flux shot didn't make it to my laptop, can't see it -



Mr Bob

I had done that before (the two formats), though I may not have posted the results. I have DVE and Serenity in both formats. Will do a few again as time permits (by popular demand?).
I'm using component only now. For some reason, that allowed me to use two different color registers on the Hitachi (-PBPR and -CBCR) so I can adjust the color separately. Now my HD DVD is component at 1080i and my DVD burner is 480i and the Hitachi upconverts, pretty well, as you've commented before.
Go ahead, Jessica won't mind.
Sorry about Aeon. I had fixed the link elsewhere, missed this one.
And thanks.

Michael
post #3098 of 11731
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

Sorry about Aeon. I had fixed the link elsewhere, missed this one.
And thanks.

Michael

Works now, the Aeon pic. Looks great!
post #3099 of 11731
Hi - lots of good info on here (but too many pages! hehe). Thanks to Bob and others for keeping the CRT love alive.

As I'm looking for ways to extend the life and improve the quality of my Pioneer SD-643HD5 (purchased in 6/02), I have a few questions.

1. I've been happy with the picture quality of my rptv but have never had it professionally calibrated. I'm sure I don't know what I'm missing. My first question is: given the age of my TV (over six years) and the fact that it's a "normal" Pioneer and not an "Elite", is it worth spending the money on calibration? I mean, when it comes to Pioneer's, all I ever hear about on this site is the Elites and their amazing potential when properly tuned. Can a calibrator make my non-Elite do the same, or close to the same things, or is it not wort the effort?

2. I've been reading a bit about scalers (e.g. DVDO VP50, etc.). I get the impression these are great for either fixed pixel displays with specific resolutions and timings and for front projector systems. Is an investment in a scaler worth it for my rptv? And if so, which scaler is a good match for my tv?

3. My Tv has both RGB (DB15) and Component inputs. Currently all my content comes in via component. Does one input provide a better quality picture than the other? I notice that when I use the RGB input many of the picture quality controls on the TV's menu are disabled. Is that a good or a bad thing?

4. I've seen Bob mention "torch mode" several times - a reference to the contrast setting being set to max. Turns out, because I never did much tweaking of my picture once I bought my set, that I've been running in "torch mode" all this time. That said, my tv probably has below-average hours of use (definitely not used in "baby sitter" mode). I'd like to know what's so bad about running in "torch mode". And if there's some damage that's possible as a result of this, how can I tell if I'm affected?

Many thanks for your help.

-Joe
post #3100 of 11731
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmoe View Post

Hi - lots of good info on here (but too many pages! hehe). Thanks to Bob and others for keeping the CRT love alive.

As I'm looking for ways to extend the life and improve the quality of my Pioneer SD-643HD5 (purchased in 6/02), I have a few questions.

1. I've been happy with the picture quality of my rptv but have never had it professionally calibrated. I'm sure I don't know what I'm missing. My first question is: given the age of my TV (over six years) and the fact that it's a "normal" Pioneer and not an "Elite", is it worth spending the money on calibration? I mean, when it comes to Pioneer's, all I ever hear about on this site is the Elites and their amazing potential when properly tuned. Can a calibrator make my non-Elite do the same, or close to the same things, or is it not wort the effort?

2. I've been reading a bit about scalers (e.g. DVDO VP50, etc.). I get the impression these are great for either fixed pixel displays with specific resolutions and timings and for front projector systems. Is an investment in a scaler worth it for my rptv? And if so, which scaler is a good match for my tv?

3. My Tv has both RGB (DB15) and Component inputs. Currently all my content comes in via component. Does one input provide a better quality picture than the other? I notice that when I use the RGB input many of the picture quality controls on the TV's menu are disabled. Is that a good or a bad thing?

4. I've seen Bob mention "torch mode" several times - a reference to the contrast setting being set to max. Turns out, because I never did much tweaking of my picture once I bought my set, that I've been running in "torch mode" all this time. That said, my tv probably has below-average hours of use (definitely not used in "baby sitter" mode). I'd like to know what's so bad about running in "torch mode". And if there's some damage that's possible as a result of this, how can I tell if I'm affected?

Many thanks for your help.

-Joe


1. Your series can look every bit as good as the Elites. I have cal'd many of both and can say that unequivocally. The only real difference I see in them is in their cosmetics. The pix on both look equal to each other, after I am done with them. The service manual applies to both, with minor changes, nothing important or material.

2. Don't think so. Have not seen them in action on a Pio, but with HD they are usually completely bypassed with the "Passthru" option, even on Faroudjas and Runco Controllers. For transcoding from 1080i to p maybe, but this is a non-issue for CRT RPTVs, as they do only up to 1080i anyway. Which is all but non-discernable from 1080p, and definitely not worth going out and buying new, for.

3. I would stay component. Have not seen any noticeable/visible diffs between the 2 yet. And you have more capacity - color and tint - with component.

4. Pre-aging of CRTs and the higher potential for screenburn are the only real issues here. Put up a screen-filling all white pattern to look for screenburn, like a fade to white. If you don't see any, you're in great shape and have literally YEARS of pristine service ready for you out of your set still, once fully cleaned and calibrated.


Mr Bob
post #3101 of 11731
does anyone have a pic of what a crt would look like if it got burn in from watching too many 4:3 shows with bars on the side? We watch everything possible off the digital channels because it looks so much better than directvs crappy locals. Tv gets at least 8-12 hours total a day and could be 3-4 hours a day for the barred stuff.

I have a puplish bar (maybe 1/2 inch) on the left side of the screen....havent done much analysis of it, trying to match it up etc, but when it's a full screen pic you can see if it you look for it.
post #3102 of 11731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Michael, could you do a shot of the SAME pic in both formats for us, so we can AB them? And is this upconverted via HDMI or via a hacked Oppo doing component?

The real test is whether upconverted via component on an HD DVDP is as good as upconverted via component from a hacked Oppo or vice versa. Or my hacked Samsung 841....

Done. Rather than repost everything, I'll just direct everyone to what we hope will become the RPCRT screenshot thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post13601985

Michael
post #3103 of 11731
Mr Bob,

I've been very happy with my Elite 510 for some time. I've noticed flaws in all the fixed pixel displays, mostly with the black level and inaccurate color. Recently I've had the opportunity to demo an ISF calibrated Pioneer Elite 150. To be honest it is very impressive. Given that you started this thread two years ago, I was wondering if you felt that the gap between the fixed pixel and CRT technology had narrowed? In particular, if the Pioneer Elite 150 could actually be compared to CRT?
post #3104 of 11731
I'm having a convergence problem each time I turn my TV on the convergence is all messed & I have to re-do everything then the colors are fine but once I turn it off they re-set what could it be
post #3105 of 11731
Quote:
Originally Posted by xiv_R_A_I_D_E_R_ View Post

I'm having a convergence problem each time I turn my TV on the convergence is all messed & I have to re-do everything then the colors are fine but once I turn it off they re-set what could it be

make and model ?
post #3106 of 11731
Quote:
Originally Posted by thsmith View Post

make and model ?

Mitsubishi wt-42313
post #3107 of 11731
Hello. I was fine tuning the red convergence after adjusting color and the red convergence line bent far (1/4") from the reference line and became wavy across the left side of the screen. In addition, one touch of the adjust at times moved the line violently. I have never had any issues with convenrgence and it must have been SOMETHING I did, but I am pretty careful. Right now I have it Ok (at one point the line was doubled and like a sine wave across the screen!) but from center to left edge of the screen in the middle there are read and cyan streaks. Faint, but noticable. Blue convergence was fine and I never mess with the green.

Before this happened, the set overall had poor grayscale and when an overall white blooimg or bleeding. Lacks detail in dark areas.

I am assuming thet the convergence is not "broken" as it happened when I was doing convergence, so how can I fix the radical wavy line?

Thanks in advance...
post #3108 of 11731
Quote:
Originally Posted by xiv_R_A_I_D_E_R_ View Post

Mitsubishi wt-42313

On my Mitsubishi WS-48311 I find that the convergence is a little off on the bottom half of the screen until the TV warms up (in less than 30 minutes from power on).

One time I adjusted convergence during the warmup period and then saw problems the next time the TV was turned on from a cold start. Now I wait until the set is warmed up before adjusting convergence, which I really only do once every year or so. Everything is consistent, including the warmup cycle.
post #3109 of 11731
Set was pretty warmed up. I read somewhere about the set facing east or west when doing this. It was actuall in a service manual. When it was in the other room, I touched up convergence every year of so and never had an issue - it faced west. The wavy line is actually only on the middle horizontal line, red only, using 100 point convergence. It just jumped off while I was making adjustments.

Wild.
post #3110 of 11731
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by newsposter View Post

does anyone have a pic of what a crt would look like if it got burn in from watching too many 4:3 shows with bars on the side? We watch everything possible off the digital channels because it looks so much better than directvs crappy locals. Tv gets at least 8-12 hours total a day and could be 3-4 hours a day for the barred stuff.

I have a puplish bar (maybe 1/2 inch) on the left side of the screen....havent done much analysis of it, trying to match it up etc, but when it's a full screen pic you can see if it you look for it.

The sidebar screenburn will be the same width as the difference between 4x3 and 16x9 on your screen, when an SD commercial is up there, in 4x3 on an HD program. On a 57, that means around 5-6" wide, not half an inch. Half an inch could be your line of demarcation, tho. Sometimes they run a black bar for around 3/8" on each side - sometimes one's wider than the other - between the 4x3 material and the gray sidebars.

This is a fixed image as well.

For that kind of usage, you have to be very diligent in your screenburn watchfulness. You have to put your contrast down to about half whenever there's 4x3 up there, if it's not being stretched to fill the screen.

Torch Mode is DEFINITELY out, when running the set that many hours a day.

Be definitive about what kind of material needs to NOT be stretched, and keep all other material stretched out to fill the screen at all times. The news does NOT need accurate aspect ratios. Stock tickers need LOW contrast at all times, far lower than midpoint. Commercials do NOT need correct aspect ratios. All non-essential viewing should be done on a screen-filling aspect ratio like Zoom, or Stretched.

Only you finest viewing - a great movie, the Oscars, the Grammys - should be accurate in their aspect ratios, and of course if these are in HD already, they already fill the screen completely anyway.


Mr Bob
post #3111 of 11731
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by egrady View Post

Mr Bob,

I've been very happy with my Elite 510 for some time. I've noticed flaws in all the fixed pixel displays, mostly with the black level and inaccurate color. Recently I've had the opportunity to demo an ISF calibrated Pioneer Elite 150. To be honest it is very impressive. Given that you started this thread two years ago, I was wondering if you felt that the gap between the fixed pixel and CRT technology had narrowed? In particular, if the Pioneer Elite 150 could actually be compared to CRT?

Depends on the quality of the display. 1080p in the Kuros and the FHD 1 and the 150 and the Panasonic HD plasmas has made great leaps and bounds in the past few years. Pio has a great writeup they display at CES, extolling the virtues of deep blacks, and they have been doing marvelous research on how to get their blacks deeper and deeper, always chasing the CRT blacks we have now and have had since the beginning. They have almost caught up, if you can afford them.

Several plasmas in the past few months have passed my stringent standards for grayscale, and have been declared by me to be ready to go OOB, as long as you pick the proper color temp in their user modes. At which point I only charge a minimum charge of travel plus $150 for checkout and I'm outa there, saving them the difference between that and what a full cal woulda cost. So not all displays need grayscale calibration OOB anymore. The manufacturers are finally getting it - videophiles want true to life pix by having the whites be the correct cream white - not artificially "Brighter!" pix, by having the whites be blue-white.

OTOH, there are other brands that look so pasty and unrealistic, that I could never live with them. The cheaper brands have kept producing flat panels just like the expensive guys, and you can really see the difference.

Sony's OLED tech has actually SURPASSED CRT in black levels! They offer an 11" model of flat panel for $2500 that has a million to 1 contrast ratio! It is truly stunning. They have made one as big as 27" now, but it is their prototype and that one's not in production at this point. It may be awhile before we see anything close to a big screen in that arena.

To answer your question, yes. If you can afford it. I knew 3 years ago from seeing what was at CES then - my first 1080p fixed pixel display, by Toshiba, and the fact that NO CRTs were being pushed that year, DV or RPTV or front projection - that CRT's days were numbered in the marketplace. I could view the 57" displays they had there from around 6' away, which is unheard of in CRT that has not been fully supertightened. And around 10' away on Panny's 103" plasma from 2 years ago, with mesmerizing colors and blacks. Hey, if you got $70,000, I am sure they'll fix you right up!

This year the head of Panny spoke, and evidently even at that price, they now have over 3000 of them out there in the world, cranking away every day!

Then he unveilied the unheard of - they rolled out the brand new biggest plasma panel in the world - the 150", with 2000x4000 resolution, twice that of 1080i/p HD. From my distance away in the audience, it looked stunning. Have NO idea how much THAT one is gonna cost!




Mr Bob
post #3112 of 11731
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by djm3801 View Post

Hello. I was fine tuning the red convergence after adjusting color and the red convergence line bent far (1/4") from the reference line and became wavy across the left side of the screen. In addition, one touch of the adjust at times moved the line violently. I have never had any issues with convenrgence and it must have been SOMETHING I did, but I am pretty careful. Right now I have it Ok (at one point the line was doubled and like a sine wave across the screen!) but from center to left edge of the screen in the middle there are read and cyan streaks. Faint, but noticable. Blue convergence was fine and I never mess with the green.

Before this happened, the set overall had poor grayscale and when an overall white blooimg or bleeding. Lacks detail in dark areas.

I am assuming thet the convergence is not "broken" as it happened when I was doing convergence, so how can I fix the radical wavy line?

Thanks in advance...

Sometimes the Hits run out of room to move. They also are very starved on their capacities, and need cajoling.

Go back and forth sometimes, and whatever offness was presenting itself rights itself.

There's also ways to average peaks out, given in the sm.

Don't expect Hits to always be true to form. They need extra attention sometimes. Going back and forth until things settle down usually does it for me -


Mr Bob
post #3113 of 11731
Thanks - I will try it again - Appreciate the response!
post #3114 of 11731
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by djm3801 View Post

Thanks - I will try it again - Appreciate the response!


Be sure and jump around to the surrounding points and back, also.
post #3115 of 11731
Thank you again, yes, I try to hit each point a little then move. too much on one point and it sometimes jumps way off and turns into a double looping curve. Very scary.

Thanks. Nice of you to spend so much of your time helping others. Much appreciated.
post #3116 of 11731
Quote:
Originally Posted by djm3801 View Post

Hello. I was fine tuning the red convergence after adjusting color and the red convergence line bent far (1/4") from the reference line and became wavy across the left side of the screen. In addition, one touch of the adjust at times moved the line violently. I have never had any issues with convenrgence and it must have been SOMETHING I did, but I am pretty careful. Right now I have it Ok (at one point the line was doubled and like a sine wave across the screen!) but from center to left edge of the screen in the middle there are read and cyan streaks. Faint, but noticable. Blue convergence was fine and I never mess with the green.

Before this happened, the set overall had poor grayscale and when an overall white blooimg or bleeding. Lacks detail in dark areas.

I am assuming thet the convergence is not "broken" as it happened when I was doing convergence, so how can I fix the radical wavy line?

Thanks in advance...

Sometimes this is a sign that one of the resistors between the convergence ICs and the yoke has burned or gone off value. (usually when the convergence IC starts to fail) It alters the centering, forcing adjustments that are so radical that the chip overheats and it loses control.

Every one of these sets that I have seen have had a nasty red cast to them from poor manufacturers setup.
post #3117 of 11731
Thanks for that last comment. Not much of a resistor troubleshooter, but I will see if any look obviously off color.
post #3118 of 11731
Ok, quick question.

I've got a Mitsubishi WS-55315 (55", 2005 *?* model). Bought it brand new, great picture when displaying source 1080i but doesn't do 720p (converts to 1080i). I'm also having compatibility issues with a number of PS3 games, since the PS3 lacks a scaler (?) - the 720p native games are downscaled to 480p. Other downers of this TV include my wife telling me the set is "big, old and ugly".

I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a new 61" Samsung LED DLP 120hz HDTV (model #: HL61A750) this weekend to replace the "old" Mitsu. 2nd choice is a 50" 720p Pioneer Kuro plasma.

Good choice? Bad choice? Pros, cons? Just looking for reasons why I maybe shouldn't pull the trigger... but also looking for some reasons why I should.

Thanks in advance.
post #3119 of 11731
I posted a separate thread on this, but haven't gotten much, figured I'd try here...

So I've noticed that recently a horizontal line has appeared on my Hitachi UWX RPTV. It is around the center of the picture and is static. It almost looks like a line of black pixels. It's not on the screen, and I've cleaned both the mirror and the projector gun heads (just the outer housing) and it hasn't changed anything. Should I hire a professional to do a more thorough inspection and cleaning or is there anything else I can do on my own (I can do the basics like I just mentioned but I wouldn't feel comfortable opening up too many bits and pieces). Thanks in advance!
post #3120 of 11731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chodite View Post

Ok, quick question.

I've got a Mitsubishi WS-55315 (55", 2005 *?* model). Bought it brand new, great picture when displaying source 1080i but doesn't do 720p (converts to 1080i). I'm also having compatibility issues with a number of PS3 games, since the PS3 lacks a scaler (?) - the 720p native games are downscaled to 480p. Other downers of this TV include my wife telling me the set is "big, old and ugly".

I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a new 61" Samsung LED DLP 120hz HDTV (model #: HL61A750) this weekend to replace the "old" Mitsu. 2nd choice is a 50" 720p Pioneer Kuro plasma.

Good choice? Bad choice? Pros, cons? Just looking for reasons why I maybe shouldn't pull the trigger... but also looking for some reasons why I should.

Thanks in advance.

actually the ps3 does have a scaler and a very good one from what i have read. anyway try this for your games. go into the display settings on the ps3 menu (the one all the way to the left as i'm sure you know) go into display and select manual setup. next it will ask how your ps3 is hooked up to your tv via hdmi or componet, and select the one your using. now when it asked for display resolution of you tv only select 1080i (don't check 720p, 480p/i) and save. now your games should be 1080i .
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