Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 154

Anyone in Long Beach, California looking for a Pioneer Elite PRO 510 for cheap drop me a line ... moderate use, set looks great in HD or upconverted from NTSC.

zig

Thanks Bob...Just called and the set is gone already... I appreciate the replies though...

Thanks. I had (have) an awesome teacher.

I got it.

No, just kidding. Sorry you missed it. Next time, get it first and ask about it later (especially for free!).
(That you, M.C.?)

It's a 2005 Panasonic 47X54, the last year they made an RP-CRT. It has HDMI input, auto focus, several zoom/stretch options. Picture has been excellent, but beginning about 6 weeks ago the convergence started drifting a lot. I have to re-converge every night, sometimes twice a night. If I run the auto focus and then tweak it with the 9-pt manual screen, I can still get a pretty good convergence.

I was pleasantly surprised last year when DirecTV put in an HDMI test in their diagnostics. Purpose was to see if your set's HDMI passed a high-level handshake that would authorize your TV to continue to receive full-res HD on premium movie channel. My Panny passed it.

Mr Bob, what is the Rolls Royce of CRT RPTV? Personally I haven't own or research any
CRT RPTV but I am a owner of CRT Direct-View.

Current setup Sony KP-61HS10
Direct HR21 dvr

A couple of weeks ago my Sony KP-61HS10 seemed to start acting diiferent. I seems as though the picture has lost it's focus, the clarity of the picture has diminished. And the edge detail especially on sharp lines etc. is horrible now. It it worst in 480i mode which Sony up converts to 960i.

in 1080i it doesn't seem as bad for the edge detail but doesn't seem as clear as it once was. Convergence, geometry seems fine just the overall clarity of the picture and the horrible edge detail that seems to be just affecting SD.

So I am wondering if this issue is something that is fixable for a reasonable cost for the age of the TV (Purchased 1/01) or is it time to retire the Sony to the basement and start looking for a new main room set?

Also I've noticed that anything white guide letters etc. seem to show something similar to when you PC monitors refresh rates is set to low.

And in the Self Diagnosis Screen

AKB SHOWS A VALUE OF 1 WHERE ALL OTHERS ARE 0

Any help or opinions I thank you for.

Mr Bob,

I have a Mits 65-815 Diamond that is about 4 years old. It was calibrated and then "tuned up" a year after that by Craig Rounds. He also did the "ringing mod" on it. The picture is fantastic!!

I spoke with him on the phone last month about further tweaking, tuning up, etc. He recommended adding a scaler and then tweaking it to the set. We have not discussed shimming the optics/crts to help with overscan. But I can ask him I guess. Sounds like you really believe in that mod for overscan reduction.

I am also curious about your dislike/disuse of the HDMI input on these sets.
Mine has only one and I must use it for the upconversion to 1080i that my HD-XA2 does (only via HDMI as you know) for my SD DVD's. I had heard that Mits really blew it on that input, but I don't know why. Obviously Craig tweaked it during my calibration, but I have to use it to get my DVD's upconverted. Could you shed some light on this for me? I assume the scaler will use the HDMI input and all my other sources will go to the scaler either component or HDMI in the case of the Toshiba xa2??

Thanks,

Steve

my picture on my tv is dark and everything has a pinkish reddish orangeish tint to it and im ready to change the crt fluid

which way is easier pull out the projector guns or leave them in to clean?
I have my fluid but i dont want to have to solder anything back together as i've never done that before.

my tv is a 6P5430 W102 that was given to me as a 50" Magnavox tv but i think its 54", i have the pdf but i really want to know if anyone made any picture tutorials since 2006 so i could really "see" what im supposed to be doing

Thanks
ps: also how do i adjust the convergence without the original tv remote?

heres my pics:
with power

without power

guns with power off

red
green
blue

looks like this is the first time its EVER been opened since 97





with the power off the red one is perfectly white with light shining down in there, thats how its supposed to be right?
also the dust colored panel in the last pic says screen focus would that be all i need to mess with when im finished?

Thanks

here is a pic of my tv, it's a 54" Philips Magnavox RPTV



is this the drainage port?



anybody have any other ideas, tips? Gonna do it Friday, and wanna have a clear plan.

Typical Philips...Blue and Green are contaminated...That is not the "drainage port"...You have to remove the lenses from the coolant chamber...Make sure you clean all that contamination out before you add new coolant or in 6 months you'll have the same thing again...

thanks for the response splicer
you wouldnt have a step by step procedure would you?
anybody?

these are the instructions i have so far
Changing Projection TV Coolant
1. Tip the TV set so the expansion chambers are pointed up. The expansion chamber is a small white/clear plastic bulb-like thing
that is attached to one side of each of the CRT's up near the top lens. In some TVs, the expansion chambers are already pointed
up - In this case you don't have to tip the TV
2. Cover the circuit boards below the CRT's with several paper towels to prevent accidentally spilling any coolant onto the boards.
The coolant is corrosive and will destroy the circuit boards. Don't skimp on the paper towels here - they are cheap!!!
3. Remove the four screws that hold on the focusing lens assembly and remove the focusing lens assembly.
4. Note the position of the expansion chamber then remove the expansion chamber. It will need to be reinstalled in basically the
same position so remember the position or take a picture if you need to. There is a small o-ring on the neck of the expansion
chamber where it threads onto the CRT housing - Don't loose it!
5. Use the baster and tube to suck the fluid out from the hole where the expansion chamber was removed. This hole is fairly small...
maybe 5/16" or so.
6. Once most of the fluid is out, remove the four screws that hold on the lens cover plate.
7. Remove the lens cover plate, the lens & the large o-ring. (be gentle with the o-rings!!!)
8. Clean the CRT chamber & lens with denatured alcohol. Use 100% cotton balls so you don't scratch anything.
9. Clean the CRT chamber and lens with distilled water. Again, use 100% cotton balls so you don't scratch anything. This will rinse
out the alcohol residue. You need to use distilled water for this so there is no mineral residue.
10. Gently clean the large o-ring with distilled water (don't use the alcohol because it might eat the o-ring) Dry off the o-ring and
lightly coat it with 100% pure silicone (not siliconized acrylic caulking or acrylic latex caulking - ONLY USE 100% SILICONE).
Use your fingers to rub a thin layer of silicone all over the surface of the o-ring. Then place the o-ring in the groove in the CRT
housing.
11. Place the lens in its position on the o-ring.
12. Place the lens cover plate over the lens and install the four screws.
13. Clean your baster and tubing with denatured alcohol then rinse with distilled water.
14. Use the baster and tube to suck clean fluid from the bottle and install it into the CRT through the expansion chamber hole. Go
really slow when it is almost full to minimize overflow. Wipe up any overflow immediately. There will be a small air pocket in
the CRT when you are done - you will not be able to fill the chamber 100% - This is O.K. Just be sure to fill it as far as possible
so the fluid is just up to the edge of the expansion chamber hole.
15. Install the expansion chamber. Be sure to install it in the same position as it was before you removed it. Also be sure that the
small o-ring is on the neck of the chamber before you thread it on. The chamber is just plastic so don't over-tighten it or you
might damage it. Screw it on as tight as you can go by hand and then give it about 1/8 of a turn with pliers. (you might have to
use needle-nose pliers to get a good grip on it.)
16. Place the focusing lens assembly into position and install the four screws.
17. Turn on the TV and check for leaks over the next 20 minutes. Remember, you have not yet removed all the paper towels from
inside the TV. Remove these once you know there are no leaks.
Other things that should be done after replacing the fluid include...
1. Clean the mirror
2. Clean the top lenses of the focusing assemblies
3. Focus the CRT's
4. Adjust the convergence
Here is a list of things you will need:
1. Turkey baster
2. Vinyl tube
3. Cooling Fluid
4. 100% cotton balls
5. Paper towels
6. Denatured alcohol
7. Distilled water
8. Pliers
9. Screw driver

Thouhg I've never done it, the first few steps sound like terrible advice to me... if you spill the coolant it'll soak right through paper towels onto your circuit boards... having read the applicable section of the service manual for a friend's Phillips CRT-RP (I haven't determined yet that his coolant is contaminated, but I'm preparing for the worst cause once he sees it it'll have to be done soon...) it's a much better idea to leave the coolant sealed in its chamber, remove the entire CRT assembly (or at least one complete tube/lens assembly at a time) so you can drain the coolant far away from the circuits and have plenty of room to maneuver...

I'm sure one of the experts here will confirm or deny... hopefully...

My first step would be to get the service manual specific to that set...

Posted a link to a good outline for Philips coolant replacement one page back. Removing the CRT(s) during replacement, as many pointed out for a Philips example here , is very important to avoid coolant spillage. The outline for Philips sets I sublinked above (under picture tube replacement) isn't on my Philips 64PH9905 service CDROM, but believe it was written at Philips. Live or similar 'bright' images still look good on my year-2000 Philips, but certain scenes/situations, as I outlined recently here, indicate fluid contamination. The slight reduction of horiz. res. is a key reason I've ordered 3 16-oz fluid bottles (also linked earlier) and plan on a blue/green-CRT coolant change. -- John

Not the screen pots since changes will screw up your gray scale, requiring (for most) instrument recalibration. Focus pots (3) and mechanical lens adjustments control (generally) overall focus. As noted earlier here, it's a good idea to mark trimpot positions (all six), and even tape over the screen pots while tinkering. -- John

Thanks for the posts John Mason. Im definitely gonna mark my screen and focus posts after i blow some canned air around in there definitely dont wanna mess that up

that phillips manual will definitely be good reference material
how long did it take to change out yours?
was it hard?

Craig Rounds calibrated my WS-55517. Later, I ask him to explain why the HDMI Input on past Mitsubishi's Television make the blacks look flat. I have my Dish 722 Receiver hooked component because of this issue. Craig could not "calibrate out" the problem with my Mitsubishi. I use my HDMI Input with my Toshiba HD-30 for SD Upconversion. Anyway, Here was his answer:

There are two luma standards for DVI / HDMI. Both have 0~255 levels of luma.

The first standard is call VIDEO luma, or CE luma, and uses level 16 for black and level 235 for white. This provides for levels 0~15 to be blacker than black (BTB) and for levels 236~255 to be white than white (WTW).

The second standard is called PC luma and uses level zero for black and level 255 for white. This is the standard that Mits used.

Mits didn't really make an error because different types of boxes are using either standard. Many BluRay players can be switched between either standard. All HD-DVD players use PC as well. And some satellite boxes use PC, but they are rare.

If you connect a source to the HDMI that uses PC luma then the calibration will be perfect through HDMI. However, if you have a source that uses VIDEO luma the blacks will be too bright and washed out, and the whites won't be bright enough, and the gamma will be all messed up.

If you connect a BluRay, look in the user menu for a setting for this. It is confusing because only Sony seems to label it properly as 0-255 / 16-235. All other manufacturers have used cryptic names such as "lighter"/"darker", or enhanced/standard...

Also, I think the HDMI on the xxx15's might accept YCbCr as well. If your BluRay has this option, try it and see how it compares to RGB 0-255.

craigr

Yes, lots of good tips, too, at the linked keohi site (matching the manual). Decided to await Bob's NYC-area tour rather than change the coolants myself. Too many solar orbits here; might have tackled it years ago. -- John

[quote=Mr Bob;15554319]The 55517 is the same series as mine, the WS 73517. I found that you cannot change the sm sub br without screwing up the black floor. First time I've ever seen that. Had to restore the original sm br setting, and run my User br between 41-45, rather than the typical calibrated midpoint of 31. This delivers perfect black levels and shadow details, without the need of a scaler. Pix I sent up earlier in this thread will confirm that for you, the ones of Victoria's Secret in particular. I believe they are on page 139 of this thread.

My set's HDMI input sucks bigtime, I won't use it at all. I use strictly component on my set, straight from my sources, no scaler involved.

If you need to convert HDMI for upconversion purposes on your SD library, get an HD Fury II and for less than $400 you'll be done with it. It pipes out on either RGB or component, and component delivers in spades on our sets, it's the finest way to get a pic to them.

You'll find links at the cover page of my website.

I only use HDMI for my SD Library. The picture for 1080i upconversion is sub par to say the least. Thanks for the info. about the HD Fury II.