Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 166

Originally Posted by iramack



Is she 12 or 13 years old?????? OK maybe 15 tops!! But definitely jail bait!!

Originally Posted by Mr Bob

The HSTA movement would work fine for the centering of red and blue. The one thing you don't want to change in the xx59 coarse sm is the HWID. Do that ONLY in the xx57 sm Defl Jung, NOT the xx59 coarse sm, where it messes with the hor linearity if you zero it, which would be optimal. But not worth the change, just for the purpose of zeroing things out in the conv sm.

But for HSTA, the diff between 0 and +-50 is nominal and would work just fine, and would not require moving the centering mags on red and blue. You could leave them alone. I did. But if you're still being maxed out onto one side because of their factory aiming of red and blue, that won't be enough.

Yes, I think they used the same bulkhead on the 65 and 73, both using the 9" guns, but with different size screens. As such you get shafted on the 65! My 73 had no problems.

Perhaps all you really need to do is add washers to the inside or outside set of bolts, where the red and blue anchor to the bulkhead, and alter their directionality that way, as long as each lens is directly mounted to the CRT itself. You don't need to loosen the springs holding the CRTs in, they stay intact even if you're changing out a tube. But if the lenses mount to the bulkhead from the top while the CRTs mount to the bulkhead from the bottom, it won't work, as the lens angle relative to the CRT face has to stay the same.

Of course don't alter the lens anchoring with this directional shimming, as you'd change the scheimplug; but I know you know that already, that's just for the onlookers here.



Stick strictly to the bolts holding the CRT in place, for that directional shimming. That should at least allow you to recenter the red and blue images mechanically, if doing so will allow the entire red and blue lens/CRT package to all be angled a little bit, together.

Question is, after you have done all that, is your current image footprint going to be so strong by now that it will then show, at the edges? Since your red and blue guns have been so offcenter all along since the thing was built, that's still a worry. If so, the whole thing's moot! First thing to do is check that out.


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Originally Posted by Owen

"She" is Phoebe Cates

Originally Posted by joikd

Mr Bob (or anyone else), can you put up a pic showing which bolts I would need to add the washers to? I was all ready to do the shimming on my 65813 when I read that part.

Originally Posted by Mr Bob

The shimming I have been doing has been level equally all around, which works perfectly. The angles involved don't need to change at all, the meager shim thickness involved doesn't really call for that.

Unless of course you have a heavy aging footprint on your guns by now, which WOULD require re-angling the red and blue guns, because changing the positioning of the raster on the tubes will reveal previously unbombarded phospors out at the sides, making those sides uneven in their light levels at those parts of the images. Haven't tackled trying that yet. One shimming op I did recently failed because of that, and because the 2 source sys's didn't have the same s/s centering on them. I had to restore it to the way it was before.

Is your blurriness caused by focusing or convergence? The 610s have great lenses that don't defocus out toward the edges, like cheaper lenses do. The 510s have scheimpflug error on the blue, but I have not seen center to edge focusing problems on the Elite series. They have always had excellent lenses on them, capable of the great pix I put up on page 103 of this thread.

The convergence in the viewable area can be aided by the points in the invisible areas outside the visible viewscreen area.


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Originally Posted by superleo

Download avshd-709 disk and use those patterns, or if you prefer AVIA or DVE disk, make sure you are using 16:9 patterns.

Originally Posted by Owen

Thanks man, the video you are after is called Lights Camera Girls.

http://www.amazon.com/Lights-Camera-.../dp/B000FZEN44

It was also available in high bit rate Mpeg2 on DVHS, that's the version I have.

It's like Playboy magazine (without the crap) on 1080i video, pretty girls, classy photography,
highly recommended if you can find it anywhere.

I thing it's a HDNet production done by the people that do Bikini Destinations, same camera man anyway.

Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast

Got it. Thanks.
Now just have to replace the blue gun and I can really get to work.

Michael

Originally Posted by Mr Bob

If it won't turn on, chances are the hinky factory conn's on the PS bd have taken out either the conv ICs or the defl bd. If it DOES turn on after having been cold for days or weeks, TURN IT OFF WITHIN 1 MINUTE. Do NOT allow it to get back to cruising temp again without the PS bd being resoldered correctly. These units were not designed to be operated by hinky solder conn's on PS bds, where huge spikes from those hinky conns will lightninig-bolt down into the set and take out other boards. The entire 510/61/710 series was poorly soldered on their PS boards, and they have been going down right and left for years, because of this. I have been saving as many as I can, which is dozens so far.

If it does turn on again and work properly, shut it down immediately, remove the PS bd and send it to me. Local yokels will only resolder what's bad at the time, will rightfully accept your $, then sometime further on the next set of bad conns will go out and you'll be back where you started. My resoldered boards never go out again.

There is a huge thread on this issue, that started 4 years ago and is still going strong. ANYBODY whose 510/610/710 - and many of the 520/620/720 series - has started up with intermittent sporadic events should read this thread, and should TURN THE SET OFF IMMEDIATELY, even if you're watching video on it right now. A catastrophic event may be about to happen, as it happens when these units are on, after they have warmed up. They are "thermals".

And keep it off until its PS bd has been properly resoldered.

DO NOT allow it back to cruising temp in this frail condition. Your set could get totalled.


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...402397&page=58


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Originally Posted by superleo

Michael, could you post a "GRAB"?

This way we can play with the picture to match color, sharpness, etc...

Thanks.

Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast

That's EASY. It's screenshots that're tough.
Enjoy.

Originally Posted by superleo

Thank you Michael, I'll post some shots on the Reference Material thread as time permits.

Originally Posted by ss4vegita

The reason RP CRT died is it's just asking owners too much to get a set which they paid 2000+ dollars for (at the time) and tack an additional 400+ dollars in order to unlock the sets true potential.