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Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 251

post #7501 of 12299
Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

You sir, have the holy grail of RPCRTs. With some minor maintenance it can be better than when it was new.

At very least clean the lenses and mirror. You can use Monster screen cleaner for the stain. If you want to really bring the best of your tv give it a full calibration... Color decoding, grayscale, convergence, focusing and if you want to take it all the way, ovescan reduction.

Mr. Bob is the upmost expert on RPCRTs and he could help throug a phone consult, well worth it.

Of course you can always ask question and do you're own research here.

After doing a little research through the thousands of posts in this thread and downloading the instruction manual from mits. I cleaned the lenses only (not the mylar mirror) and took the screen apart to clean out the water stain. It really does look amazing compared to when there was still 7 years of nastiness on the lenses!!! I am soo happy I found this thread and didn't buy a new tv. I spent $25 instead of $1800! I have a little blurriness on the bottom of the screen, but that is only noticable with the text on the bottom of the black ops video game. Now I'm wondering if I should continue to run component cables from my xbox to my receiver, or do hdmi and let it convert it to component. I use an xbox 360 through media center to watch tv and movies and have a yamaha rx-v663 7.2 receiver.
post #7502 of 12299
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheister23 View Post
After doing a little research through the thousands of posts in this thread and downloading the instruction manual from mits. I cleaned the lenses only (not the mylar mirror) and took the screen apart to clean out the water stain.
You should really clean the mirror too, believe it or not it will help to the picture quality.


Quote:
Originally Posted by sheister23 View Post
It really does look amazing compared to when there was still 7 years of nastiness on the lenses!!! I am soo happy I found this thread and didn't buy a new tv.
If you want a better picture, a full covegence should be performed, that would tighten up the whole picture as far as focus, sharpness and color.


Quote:
Originally Posted by sheister23 View Post
...Now I'm wondering if I should continue to run component cables from my xbox to my receiver, or do hdmi and let it convert it to component. I use an xbox 360 through media center to watch tv and movies and have a yamaha rx-v663 7.2 receiver.
I'm not familiar with the xbox, but you should try to get the xbox to output 1080i which is the same max resolution as your set.

I'm very glad you are keeping your set, you have one of the best set ever made, and it should give you a stellar picture fore many more years to come.
post #7503 of 12299
So long, old friend...

I put my set up on the "Free" section of Craigslist over the weekend, and an enterprising fellow came to pick it up just now.

I've been fighting repair issues for several months now, going through a few iterations of power supply and deflection board problems. It reached critical mass when the last "repair" came back with the same problem. Set powers up briefly, then reverts to standby when the circuit protection kicks-in.

Sorry, but I've now dumped far more time and money into this set than it's worth...regardless of how nice the picture was (and it was nice when it was working). The set will be replaced with one of the new generation plasma displays, likely a Panny...I have one of their professional series plasma displays in another room, and it has been a great performer for nearly 4 years now.

Good luck, and godspeed to all of you keeping your CRTs alive!
post #7504 of 12299
Quote:
Originally Posted by bretski View Post

So long, old friend...

I put my set up on the "Free" section of Craigslist over the weekend, and an enterprising fellow came to pick it up just now.

I've been fighting repair issues for several months now, going through a few iterations of power supply and deflection board problems. It reached critical mass when the last "repair" came back with the same problem. Set powers up briefly, then reverts to standby when the circuit protection kicks-in.

Sorry, but I've now dumped far more time and money into this set than it's worth...regardless of how nice the picture was (and it was nice when it was working). The set will be replaced with one of the new generation plasma displays, likely a Panny...I have one of their professional series plasma displays in another room, and it has been a great performer for nearly 4 years now.

Good luck, and godspeed to all of you keeping your CRTs alive!

Yeah I'm about at that point too. My 46" Sony RPTV has already had the tubes replaced and the convergence ICs too. On top of that there is noticeable burn in on the sides from the black bars of 4:3 content, even though I only ever used Pro mode and had the TV ISF calibrated pretty early on. Despite what some people say, I think RPTVs are just as disposable as any other piece of electronic equipment. Mine will most likely end up on the curb with a "FREE" sign.
post #7505 of 12299
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gib View Post

My Elite needs the power board resoldered and the convergence board repaired or replaced as well. It is a great TV but due to the size I am going to get rid of it. PM me if anyone is interested in Northern NJ.

The repair of a convergence board is not expensive, all you need is the 2 ICs replaced, which can be upgraded to new-gen ICs that will probably never go out again, since they are at lest 4 generations stronger than the originals. The ICs run from $10-20 each.

The resoldering of the PS board CAN be done by yourself, if you're qualified. If not send it to me, I can do it very reasonably for you.

No way this situation should cost you your TV. Owners are having me fix them all over the country, every day, by sending me their boards. I test them in my own 610 and send them back, and they are happy campers from then on. My warranty is no limit, on the resoldering. If it EVER goes out again, send it back to me and if it's from the solder going out, as was the original problem on these sets, I will take care of it again at no charge.



b
post #7506 of 12299
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

You should really clean the mirror too, believe it or not it will help to the picture quality.

Actually Leo, a mylar mirror is near impossible to clean without scratching. It does gather dust tho, so last time I tried to clean mine I took a clean dry paint brush and simply whisked off all the dust I could, very lightly and without tempting fate.

What you said is eminently true about glass mirrors, but with mylar there are some built-in limitations.

b
post #7507 of 12299
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by redline65 View Post

Yeah I'm about at that point too. My 46" Sony RPTV has already had the tubes replaced and the convergence ICs too. On top of that there is noticeable burn in on the sides from the black bars of 4:3 content, even though I only ever used Pro mode and had the TV ISF calibrated pretty early on. Despite what some people say, I think RPTVs are just as disposable as any other piece of electronic equipment. Mine will most likely end up on the curb with a "FREE" sign.

You got your tubes replaced once already and you have 4x3 screenburn again?



There are ways to avoid screenburn, y'know...

b
post #7508 of 12299
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Actually Leo, a mylar mirror is near impossible to clean without scratching. It does gather dust tho, so last time I tried to clean mine I took a clean dry paint brush and simply whisked off all the dust I could, very lightly and without tempting fate.

What you said is eminently true about glass mirrors, but with mylar there are some built-in limitations.

b

Thank you Bob for the clarification... That is exactly why we all should follow the recommendations from a professional.
post #7509 of 12299
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

You got your tubes replaced once already and you have 4x3 screenburn again?



There are ways to avoid screenburn, y'know...

b

Tube replacement was due to a flickering issue. Sony RPTVs were notorious for it, I guess. I know... I should have bought a Mitsubishi.

Avoid screenburn? Grey bars? I can't stand to look at them. TV was ISF calibrated to Sony's Pro mode, which was always used. Not sure how else I could have avoided it.
post #7510 of 12299
Thread Starter 
Arrgghh! Talk about a rock and a hard place!



b
post #7511 of 12299
I have a panasonic X53... The service menu is greyed out if I am on a 480p source. The only thing i can use is convergence.

?? Any idea's. Works fine for 1080i.
post #7512 of 12299
I have a Mits - WS 65711. Still works great. I am wondering if it is worth getting a cleaning and a calibration at this point. Its never had either. I don't have blue ray since this set doesn't have HDMI. I could get a PS3, but we really don't watch many movies, and when we do we either watch on demand or download from iTunes on the Apple TV.

Any thoughts on cleaning/calibration? What should that cost me?

Thanks.
post #7513 of 12299
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post

I have a panasonic X53... The service menu is greyed out if I am on a 480p source. The only thing i can use is convergence.

?? Any idea's. Works fine for 1080i.

You have to have true 1080i to use service mode on a Panasonic for certain parts of the 480p section. Its geometry and convergence can be done on 480i/p, but not lots of other things, without a 1080i signal present and going in.

That said, 480p and 1080i share memories on these other things, and whatever you do to your 1080i on them does exactly the same thing on 480p. Hence the grayout on 480p.

b
post #7514 of 12299
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdenichilo View Post

I have a Mits - WS 65711. Still works great. I am wondering if it is worth getting a cleaning and a calibration at this point. Its never had either. I don't have blue ray since this set doesn't have HDMI. I could get a PS3, but we really don't watch many movies, and when we do we either watch on demand or download from iTunes on the Apple TV.

Any thoughts on cleaning/calibration? What should that cost me?

Thanks.

Before they are gone, grab a Bluray player that still puts out true 1080i from BD discs on component. They are being phased out, in favor of HDMI-only players. Then run your true HD via component, there's no better way for CRT RPTVs.

You don't need HDMI for true HD from Bluray discs. Only for upconverting regular 480i discs in 1080i. For any set that is not equipped with HDMI but is with component and you want to upconvert your older SD DVD library, get an HD Fury II or III and you'll be all set. But for BD discs, component is all you need for true 1080i HD. 1080p is not needed on CRT sets.

You have an awesome set there, a permanent set. Not like the disposables of today. You'd be shooting yourself in the foot to part with it. Plus it's very expensive to buy new, and they are very easily totaled with just one problem. CRT is the last easily affordable set of repairs you'll see for a long long time.

b
post #7515 of 12299
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Before they are gone, grab a Bluray player that still puts out true 1080i from BD discs on component. They are being phased out, in favor of HDMI-only players. Then run your true HD via component, there's no better way for CRT RPTVs.

You don't need HDMI for true HD from Bluray discs. Only for upconverting regular 480i discs in 1080i. For any set that is not equipped with HDMI but is with component and you want to upconvert your older SD DVD library, get an HD Fury II or III and you'll be all set. But for BD discs, component is all you need for true 1080i HD. 1080p is not needed on CRT sets.

You have an awesome set there, a permanent set. Not like the disposables of today. You'd be shooting yourself in the foot to part with it. Plus it's very expensive to buy new, and they are very easily totaled with just one problem. CRT is the last easily affordable set of repairs you'll see for a long long time.

b

Thanks Mr. Bob. I was thinking of picking up a PS3 over the holidays to use as a blue ray player and game play. I will also need a component switcher if I go that route. Does anyone have any recommendations on one?

Mr. Bob - Any thoughts on whether it is worth calibrating and cleaning? If so what should that run. I am in Orange County, CA.
post #7516 of 12299
Thread Starter 
Absolutely worth it. This thread is over 4 years old and has more than 7000 posts, over 250 complete pages, attesting to how worth it. See page 203 for some great screenshots of my 4 year old CRT RPTV in action. If yours doesn't look like that, believe me, turn me loose on it and it will.

If you want to know prices, please contact me directly via normal means, no pm's please. Send me your contact info and I'll send you my cell # -

b
post #7517 of 12299
(Pioneer SD-532HD5 same as Elite HD510)
Gave my CRT lens covers and mirror a light, gentle dusting and picture quality was quite improved. Now I notice very light yellow spots (8" - 10") in the top center and top left and right of the screen. This is evident with a white background - not so much if at all with a colored background. I don't suspect coolant contamination - it looks pretty good down the lens barrels. I found this in a forum search:
Symptom: Symptom: Yellow blotch in upper right corner
Cure: Cure: Mirror shifted in mirror case. Move mirror to
proper location.

I was very careful with the mirror and I can't believe I shifted it. The color is very light. Is this normal? Is there a way to remove it? I'm tempted to live with it but you know how that is - once you know it's there.....
post #7518 of 12299
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Before they are gone, grab a Bluray player that still puts out true 1080i from BD discs on component. They are being phased out, in favor of HDMI-only players. Then run your true HD via component, there's no better way for CRT RPTVs.

Won't matter much if you get a older player, because some newer Blu-ray discs are also going probably to start being made with the ICT flag enabled to prevent HD output over component on ANY Blu-ray player, old or new! So instead of hunting down a Blu-ray player that also has component outputs, it would be a much better idea, to instead look into buying something like a HDfury for a TV that lacks a HDMI input.

http://www.highdefdigest.com/news/sh...wo,_Brute/5758


"As you mention, the Blu-ray format specs prohibit Blu-ray players from upconverting standard DVDs to higher resolutions over analog Component Video. You can only do that using HDMI. The Blu-ray spec also contains a provision for something called the Image Constraint Token (ICT), which would prevent Blu-ray video from being transmitted at high-def resolutions over Component too. The intent is (allegedly) to prevent piracy, but really it's all about driving people to purchase new HDMI-equipped hardware. A disc authored with an ICT flag can only be watched in true high definition if connected by HDMI. A Blu-ray player will downconvert that signal to standard-def over Component.

Outcry about this from early Blu-ray adopters (many of whom owned Component-connected equipment) led the Blu-ray supporting studios to make an informal agreement to hold off using the ICT. Up to now, to my knowledge, no discs have been restricted from transmitting Blu-ray over Component at full resolution. However, there has been talk over the past year that several studios are pushing to finally implement the Token. While I haven't heard any specific announcement about 'Last of the Mohicans', it's possible that 20th Century Fox issued the disc as a test case, or possibly even turned on the flag in error."
post #7519 of 12299
Thread Starter 
They promised back a few years ago to not do anything about the token until 2010, then 2011, but time keeps pressing on. All my heartfelt efforts to stop time - or even slow it down - have come to naught so far...



I still recommend getting one of the current-gen players while you can. Who's to say they might someday really get their way, and outlaw the HD Fury too!



b
post #7520 of 12299
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob
They promised back a few years ago to not do anything about the token until 2010, then 2011, but time keeps pressing on. All my heartfelt efforts to stop time - or even slow it down - have come to naught so far...



I still recommend getting one of the current-gen players while you can. Who's to say they might someday really get their way, and outlaw the HD Fury too!



b
That seems to be an argument to order an HD Fury while I can (even if not banned, they will stop making them as these sets start being replaced). How does the HD Fury impact PQ? I sense that Mr. Bob would still recommend component over the HDMI input via the HD Fury. I would still need some kind of video switcher as either I still only have one HD input and have multiple HD devices.
post #7521 of 12299
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post
They promised back a few years ago to not do anything about the token until 2010, then 2011, but time keeps pressing on.
Yeah well, as far a keeping promises go.. In that regard, I trust the loonies that run the movie industry, and the clowns in the RIAA that run the music industry, about as far as I can throw them. Which seeing as I can't throw them even a teeny weeny little bit, pretty much means I also don't at all trust them in any way either. I'd wager the ICT being enabled in most all future new Blu-ray releases, is bound to happen a lot sooner than people think it will. I would not be at all surprised if 2011 is the year, where towards the middle of the year. You also start seeing a lot of posts showing up with... Oh $h*t, why is there no HD output on my Blu-ray player over component anymore?
post #7522 of 12299
I'm dumping Dish in favor of an OTA antenna. This means I need an ATSC tuner for my Pioneer Elite PRO73hdi tv.

Can anyone recommend a good converter box?
post #7523 of 12299
Good for you! Try Ebay for ATSC set top box/receiver. Make sure it is NOT a 'coupon box' from the transition as those are NOT HD capable. Look for LG 3510a and similar. Great tuners. The better/best tuners to date are the newest one in new TV's. I have a LG 3510a and another LG tuner only, forget the model #, and my TV (Toshiba DLP) tuner beats them both out. But to be fair it is ALOT newer tech than the LG's were designed with. But still, they are the best I am aware of (the LG) for a STB.
post #7524 of 12299
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Good for you! Try Ebay for ATSC set top box/receiver. Make sure it is NOT a 'coupon box' from the transition as those are NOT HD capable.
....

Anybody wants one? I happened to have two. Our taxes at work!
post #7525 of 12299
Quote:
Originally Posted by mn_leaf_fan View Post

I'm dumping Dish in favor of an OTA antenna. This means I need an ATSC tuner for my Pioneer Elite PRO73hdi tv.

Can anyone recommend a good converter box?

See if you can get your hands on a Samsung DTB-H260F.

This has been a great box. It has component out and HDMI out.

I can't remember if it allows multiple channel scans, adding channels during each scan (rather than wiping out all the previous channels). That would allow you to point your antenna in one direction (ex Chicago), scan for channels; then point antenna in another direction (ex South Bend), then scan for channels... adding South Bend stations without "wiping out" the Chicago channels). However, I know that you can manually add digital channels by typing in the real/underlying digital tv "frequency" number.

Also, I'm in a "fringe" area and it has been one of my strongest tuners.
post #7526 of 12299
My Xbox360 has been connected for years to the (only) 1080i-capable component video input on my circa 2001 WS-65809. The TV doesn't see much use these days, but I was disappointed to try to play the Xbox today only to discover that the screen is garbled (as if trying to display a resolution that is not supported).

I have double checked the connections both on the Xbox and the TV. Is it possible/common for the TV to simply stop accepting 1080i (either due to age or the fact that I can't claim to have ever done any sort of maintenance on the set)? I was able to reset the Xbox and it works fine at 480p ... but any attempt to switch it back to 1080i leads to the garbled screen again.

I have also tried connecting my PS2 to the 1080i input on the TV, but with the same result ... garbled screen.

I don't mind calling in a pro to look at it if I can find someone and the price isn't too prohibitive. But, if it's something that's common and easily corrected, I'm very much a DIY kind of person.

Assuming I can get it fixed, I'll definitely take many of the suggestions on this forum regarding cleaning and correcting the overscan that has certainly been a problem for a while now.

Thanks!

-Bob
post #7527 of 12299
Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

Anybody wants one? I happened to have two. Our taxes at work!

Only fair, considering that our government also took away all the analog channels, other than for a few local low power analog stations, in the ATSC switchover. And in the process, also made each and every TV with a analog only tuner useless without either some sort of a ATSC to analog converter box, or a cable or satellite service subscription.
post #7528 of 12299
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloTSi97 View Post

My Xbox360 has been connected for years to the (only) 1080i-capable component video input on my circa 2001 WS-65809. The TV doesn't see much use these days, but I was disappointed to try to play the Xbox today only to discover that the screen is garbled (as if trying to display a resolution that is not supported).

I have double checked the connections both on the Xbox and the TV. Is it possible/common for the TV to simply stop accepting 1080i (either due to age or the fact that I can't claim to have ever done any sort of maintenance on the set)? I was able to reset the Xbox and it works fine at 480p ... but any attempt to switch it back to 1080i leads to the garbled screen again.

I have also tried connecting my PS2 to the 1080i input on the TV, but with the same result ... garbled screen.

I don't mind calling in a pro to look at it if I can find someone and the price isn't too prohibitive. But, if it's something that's common and easily corrected, I'm very much a DIY kind of person.

Assuming I can get it fixed, I'll definitely take many of the suggestions on this forum regarding cleaning and correcting the overscan that has certainly been a problem for a while now.

Thanks!

-Bob

Sorry to hear you're not using the set much. Let me at it and I bet that would change. Big time.

All HDreadys lock onto whatever is being sent to them, automatically. You cannot do anything about it except make sure you're in the proper input at the back of the set - the one that is 1080i capable. The right most one as you face the back from the rear. The left one may be of a model year that is only capable up to 480p. That's how the Mits were designed for awhile.

Absolutely sure you're putting out 1080i and not 720p? Mit has never supported 720p, and maybe back then it garbled it. My last-ever-gen Mit just blanks it out.

If you are confirmed as sending out 1080i, perhaps the set has been exposed to coolant leakage, which may be affecting the HD and not the SD.


b
post #7529 of 12299
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

If you are confirmed as sending out 1080i, perhaps the set has been exposed to coolant leakage, which may be affecting the HD and not the SD.

b

Thank you much for the reply. I have checked, double checked, and triple checked the 1080i output. Plus, the PS2 is not capable of 720p, only 1080i.

I'll do some searching on this forum about "coolant leakage". Is this something that can be corrected?

And, while I know that adjustment would make the output of the set much better ... it's our only TV, so it's not lacking use through any fault of its own. Just too many other things occupying my time and little left for watching! :-)

-Bob
post #7530 of 12299
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloTSi97 View Post

Thank you much for the reply. I have checked, double checked, and triple checked the 1080i output. Plus, the PS2 is not capable of 720p, only 1080i.
...

Are you talking about Play Station 2? I'm not 100% on this one, and I'll check on it, but PS2 is DVD not any type of HD, so this would be limited to 480p through component. Or did you mean PS3, then you have different options, and is it dependent on how it is being set up.
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