Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 253

Depends on whether it goes under an IC or just normal resistors etc. I usually undo one end of the affected components and clean under them with alcohol and either a qtip or paper towels. Paper towels are a lot more absorbent than qtips.

Then I resolder that one end back in place and try it out.

If it's gone under one of those ICs with copious numbers of legs, I give up right there.

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Actually a powerpoint designed to counter the aging of the center section relative to the less-burned sidebars areas can be created and played until the 2 sections - the inner sec vs. the sidebars sec's - are the same age again.

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Looks like I need to move up in the world!




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That regulator is designed for heat. You solder its metal back straight to the board. You need a strong iron to even do it.

I would look into coolant leakage.


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DK if that iron will be hot enough. You'll know if it doesn't melt the solder properly.

It's better to use a hotter iron that keeps the component in question hot for a very short time than to use an inadequate amount of heat that requires you to keep it on the component for an extended period. Which can damage a pad or trace, and keeps the entire area hotter for a lot longer than a hotter iron would.


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Are you serious???



Check out my website, below.



If I were there I would take a voltage reading on those legs of the existing regulator and see if any major voltage fluctuations in its output were corresponding to the phenoms you are seeing -



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For a fraction of what you probably spent on the DLP you coulda found a used but well treated 73" Mit and tricked it out like I did, or had it tricked out by a pro capable of CRT work. Dimness on a CRT is simply an optics cleaning issue, which shoulda been yearly maintenance anyway, delivering excellent and powerful dynamic punch once your light path is crystal clear again, identical to when new.

Overscan can be reduced and full coherence restored to the much more accurately sized picture in 2 different ways, and for $150 or less you coulda gotten a Samsung OTA HD receiver, which is very popular in the big HD stores like Big Buy, where one tuner supplies impeccable HD to every set there. You walk in to BB or Fry's and are surrounded with gleaming, crystal clear HD, and it's all coming from that one tuner.

HDMI can be supplied to any component capable HDready - and all CRT HDreadys were component capable, with many being RGB capable as well - with the under-$200 HD Fury II, making HDMI a non-consideration for this discussion even if it had been mentioned here.

As I said in the beginning of this thread more than 4 years and 250 pages and 7000 posts ago, there's no need to buy new when the used market is rife with ageless and beautiful CRT RPTVs, which are capable of looking every bit as good as most of what's out there today, new. And fully tricked out, better than a lot of what's out there today, new.

Let me know if you want to return that DLP and do what I am talking about here.

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Remember that the HD Fury is only valuable - or even needed - for transcoding your upconverted SD DVD library to 1080i, which is done inside the Oppo - or any other good BDP - and sent out via the HDMI, which is the only way left to upconvert 480 to 1080 via a DVD player. For playing bluray discs in 1080i and for getting the signal from any STB to your set where that STB is set for outputting 1080i, nothing else is needed aside from excellent component cables.

No HD Fury is needed in that case. Component is the best way to get true HD from your source to your set for CRT RPTVs, whether you're using the Fury or not. ANY device that messes with your signal when not necessary to do so is not welcome in your signal chain. The Fury is excellent, the best there is for its properly applied purpose. But when you can go straight from your source to your set in true 1080i native, except for switching that path should be unimpeded, even by a Fury.

The best way to do overscan reduction is the shimming op, which is also readily available as part of my calibration if you decide to climb on board and join us when I get flown out there. I do it either way, but it really needs to be done, if you want the best pic from your display.

Please contact Robert and cc me, if you want to go in with him on getting me out to CO.

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Depending on model it can be the 4 bulged caps needing replaced, the E2P module needing to be rebuilt, or the entire DM module being replaced, with its good E2P module being transfered. PTS rebuilds the E2P module, but DK if they rebuild the DM module. You'd have to check on that. Each DM module is different per year and model, so it can be a quite specific question to ask.

I am available if you want professional guidance on this.

However, if you want to avoid what could be a convoluted and possibly expensive repair, find one that does not have that green light blinking on the front. Make sure it has no screenburn by taking an all white or all gray 100% screen-filling pattern with you, and make sure its internal CRT screen faces have not been blasted with energy by being the family baby sitter at Torch Mode for 16 hours a day.

If it passes these simple tests, it's a good buy at whatever you can get it for.

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Yes. In service mode the green can also be controlled, but in user mode only red and blue can be controlled.

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www.monoprice.com has a nifty remote controlled component switch for under $100, or you can get a simple push button one from Radio Shack for around $30 that does the yellow/red/white type composite AV switching. It is so well shielded that it works gangbusters for component as well, just match up the correct colors.

Most switchers take 4 in and put 1 out. I use a simple mechanical no-name one on my 73" Mit that I ordered online, and there's no interference or noise whatsoever, as my screenshots will attest.

The best outboard switching will not only do component video but audio also, which can be 2-RCA analog, fibre optic Toslink digital, or simple 1-RCA coaxial digital.

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