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Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 254

post #7591 of 12305
I definitely made a mistake; took my dad's old WS-65511 when I moved out just recently to my apartment. I am now moving it back because my roomies are so used to LCDs/such, they think it isn't "bright" enough, and keep cranking the brightness up. Damn shame too, because when I would be home from school, I loved watching TV and movies on that thing; 1080i from my Networked Media Tank, perfect blacks. I don't want games and misuse (have come home to find a game paused overnight on the screen...) to kill it off.

Any tips on securing it for moving? I moved it initially in a U-Haul (so, enclosed), but likely will be moving it back using a pickup. As you obviously know, the cabinet separates, which is nice (I'll likely toss the screen in my Rendezvous, wrapped up in a blanket), so I was going to primarily focus on wrapping up the bottom tight and praying for no-to-little snow. I always re-do convergence after a move.

I think it's long overdue for optics cleaning and coolant check as well; IIRC the coolant is ethylene glycol? Pretty nasty stuff.

I've got to be the worst 20 year old ever, still in love with "old" CRT tech (to this day, I use a 24" FW900 as my PC monitor). I just hold out hope that SED or FED will happen one day. CRTs get me awesome refresh rate, perfect blacks, variable resolutions, and space heating (handy in the winter). Silly kids and their 20,000:1 contrast ratios, that's just unnatural.
post #7592 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Yer right, when well set up CRT usually delivers at least 100,000:1 contrast ratio at all times, and not just dynamically, which is where the 20,000 you speak of comes from. Statically it's probably not more than 5,000:1 on your roommates' displays. CRT stomps all over that at all times, whether statically or dynamically.

All CRT has to do to look bright is have its viewers control the room lighting. In cranking any of their displays up to super bright, they are compromising the delicacy and transparency of the blacks, no matter what the modality.

Yer doing the right thing. I concur with your feelings about it, and would do exactly the same in your shoes. You'll have your own place someday, and can bring it back out of mothballs.

I have 2 roommates, but they are totally respectful of my 73" CRT and are religious about following my directives about how to treat it. Everybody who has access to it is, and treats it with respect. It is so well set up that you can sit 9' back from it - 8' on bluray/HD DVD - and have a massive picture to be involved with. It has been referred to as my "own private IMAX".

Go to Uhaul and pick up half a dozen unbuilt boxes. Don't build them. Put your set of top of them and tie it down with cushioning at the ropes. 12 layers thickness of triple corrugated cardboard does wonders for road shock.

Welcome! Hang out and enjoy this thread!



b
post #7593 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Yer doing the right thing. I concur with your feelings about it, and would do exactly the same in your shoes. You'll have your own place someday, and can bring it back out of mothballs.

I have 2 roommates, but they are totally respectful of my 73" CRT and are religious about following my directives about how to treat it. Everybody who has access to it is, and treats it with respect. It is so well set up that you can sit 9' back from it - 8' on bluray/HD DVD - and have a massive picture to be involved with. It has been referred to as my "own private IMAX".

Yep, it hurts being somewhat of a videophile sometimes! Lighting control sucks in our living room (glare during the day), so the CRT can't really shine. At home, my dad built a dedicated theater (based on D-ILA projector) which was great, but I ran this set in my room, and I think it still gave the blacks in the theater a run for their money.

I think a LCD is a better fit currently, can stand up to abuse and has the backlighting power to overcome ambient lighting. Unfortunately, going to have deal with finding whose 120Hz/motion interpolation is the least evil and assorted jazz.

Quote:
Go to Uhaul and pick up half a dozen unbuilt boxes. Don't build them. Put your set of top of them and tie it down with cushioning at the ropes. 12 layers thickness of triple corrugated cardboard does wonders for road shock.

Hmm, that is a pretty good idea; I'll just raid our apartment's recycling area and steal a bunch of boxes I've got blankets to cover the top of the bottom half of the chassis, was going to secure that with some twine, adding cardboard to the bottom should help as well. As for the top, that's just mostly mirror, so I might try to cover the mirror only with clear wrap (it needs cleaning anyways).

Quote:
Welcome! Hang out and enjoy this thread!

Will do! I got into video software/hardware ages ago in high school, and now my income can keep up with this stuff! I've got an old Sony 45" XBR RPTV (SD) that needs a new convergence IC I'm pretty sure, so that's my next CRT project. Any recommended online vendors to buy STK-xxx from? Can't really find 'em on Digi-Key.

What are the STKs for anyways? Judging from an ancient datasheet I found online for the STK394-250, looks like they are simply a pair of high-power op-amps in a single package? Look like traditional BJTs in a Class A (or AB?) configuration. Taking in an analog control signal from a uC and driving deflection signals to control convergence?
post #7594 of 12305
Mr Bob,

I have a Hitachi 65T500 that I bought new in 2005. I turned down the brightness and contrast when I got it and it has given me thousands of hours(I don't know how many hours, is there a way to tell?) of pleasure. The picture still seems great....


....This past weekend I purchased a LG 50PK550 plasma TV because the price was just ridiculously low. I was astonished at the picture, especially the Bluray hooked up thru HDMI(1080P). The Hitachi RPTV still seems good, the Bluray is HDMI out to DVI in(1080i) but the plasma is just a different type of picture.

Am I comparing apples to oranges? If I have the Hitachi ISF calibrated will it ever look like the plasma TV? I don't think I am ready to give up on my Hitachi but the prices are just coming down so fast and I am wondering if it is time to sell it(if I can) and replace it with a 60inch+ plasma.

Your thoughts????
post #7595 of 12305
i'm also considering up grading from my Hitachi65swx20b. looking at the 75 inch laserVue (L75-A91) what are your thoughts on this set bob? I respect your opinion and would love to hear what you think of this set.
post #7596 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by dekuyper View Post

I started the process of changing the coolant in the CRT guns. Also, don't know if it's just from the state of filth on the blue CRT, but when setting the convergence on the blue crt, it doesn't show up as a cross on the screen like the red. It just shows up as a round blue cloud of color. The picture on screen also has a blue haze everywhere.

Ray

Just as an update, changed the coolant and cleaned the lenses. This is the picture I'm getting right now.



I'm very happy with it! There is on line of blue that you can't see in the picture unless you zoom way in. Wonder if anyone has a suggestion of what might cause that, and how to fix it.



Since this discoloration is blue, should I assume it has something to do with the blue CRT? Again, any help would be great!

Ray
post #7597 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by dekuyper View Post

Since this discoloration is blue, should I assume it has something to do with the blue CRT? Again, any help would be great!

Wrong assumption. If it shows up blue, then the blue gun is okay; it's the OTHERS that aren't. It's probably cyan, which means something may be on your red gun. Easiest way to find it is to put up a white screen and cover two lenses at a time.
Good luck.
LL
post #7598 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

Wrong assumption. If it shows up blue, then the blue gun is okay; it's the OTHERS that aren't. It's probably cyan, which means something may be on your red gun. Easiest way to find it is to put up a white screen and cover two lenses at a time.
Good luck.

My other thought is that it's actually black and just looks blue because of blue being slightly defocused. That would suggest that there's something on the SCREEN (inside, obviously). A gentle dusting with a soft, lint-free cloth would do the trick then.
post #7599 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

My other thought is that it's actually black and just looks blue because of blue being slightly defocused. That would suggest that there's something on the SCREEN (inside, obviously). A gentle dusting with a soft, lint-free cloth would do the trick then.

Thanks for the help. I don't believe it's the screen, I had the cover off and didn't see anything, but dusted it anyway. No help. Not sure what to do next.
post #7600 of 12305
Ok i just replaced the 9 volt regulator ic on my ws-55813 and the picture is back to normal no more jitters or waves. It was pretty simple to do. After removing the chip i cleaned the board connections with alcohol, there was a little bit of gunk on the side where the flat part lays. Turned it on and no waves

Now i am adjusting the convergance and it is off just a bit on the inputs. My eyes are going crossed looking at the grid pattern lol. I have only done 2 inputs so far. Any tips for setting the convergance or just try to line the lines up the best i can? Do i start on one side and work across or is it just random? I need to research it some more.

Also thank you to everyone on this forum and in this thread for all the great info, it has helped me so much.

Thank you
post #7601 of 12305
splatee,

Wow thats what I'm going to have to do in the future with the 9V regulator on my 65813, I got a little issue with it until it warms up for about 10 min so I really am not too concerned yet. If I was confident in doing it right I would have already. I guess if I had detailed instructions on it that would help alot....

I found the easiest way to do my convergence is to start in the middle of the screeb then go top to bottom getting the grid all the way out to the left end of the screen, then go back to the center and do the same all the way out to the right end of the screen. I found that if you work your way from the inside to the out the outer edges are alittle better converged by the time you get there. But if you start on the outer grid edges they get moved when you work you way to the center. So again I start at the center and work my way out to the left then right side.

Another thing I do, since the screen is so huge is I stand looked straight into each grid point about a foot away.

I also leave green alone unless the overall geometry is distorted. I do blue first, its easiest for me to see it, and then the red.
post #7602 of 12305
I have a Mitsubishi WS-65857 No video image (blue screen), distorted captions (vol, input, etc) and no menu. Sound is OK, and Diagnostic code 1-2

www-youtube-com/watch?v=CRq18k5uhWc

I replace Convergence IC ( IC8C01 Sanyo STK392-570, IC8C01 Sanyo STK392-570)
I check the fuses ( F9A04,F9A05, etc), all OK
I check all the resistors and the 2 coils, all OK
but the problem persists...
I took out the Conv-Gene board and turned the TV on. Now I have video and menu, with the hourglass effect...
Any Ideas?
Thanks in advance
post #7603 of 12305
Bob I hope you are recording VS fashion show so we can compare screen shots.
So far sol good!
post #7604 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

Bob I hope you are recording VS fashion show so we can compare screen shots.
So far sol good!

note sure if he did ,but i sure did. haven't posted any in awhile so i thought why not. not the best picture taker of screen shots ,but here are a few from my Hitachi CRT-57f59.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
post #7605 of 12305
Very nice!
post #7606 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Depends on whether it goes under an IC or just normal resistors etc. I usually undo one end of the affected components and clean under them with alcohol and either a qtip or paper towels. Paper towels are a lot more absorbent than qtips.

Then I resolder that one end back in place and try it out.

If it's gone under one of those ICs with copious numbers of legs, I give up right there.

b

Thank you very much for the info. I'm out of town currently, but when I get back I'll take a closer look.

-Bob
post #7607 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

Bob I hope you are recording VS fashion show so we can compare screen shots.
So far sol good!

It was recorded all right. Can't wait to actually watch it! And send up shots myself. Looks like no grass grew under anybody's feet on getting shots of it up! My compliments on what has gone up so far.

Have not been able to go over the posts above, will get to that as soon as I can -

b
post #7608 of 12305
Bob, two questions:

1. How much is your phone coaching? I am going to clean optics on two sets when I go home over Christmas (a '94 46XBR35 and a 2000(?) WS-65511). The Sony has been sitting dead (bad convergence) for about 2 years now, so I'm not too concerned about trying to dive for a deep clean of their two-stage optics. The Mits I know seal their inner optics.

2. Temperature; the Mits will be travelling home on Sunday in cold weather, maybe slight flurries (hurray for tarps to seal it!). I figure I will just drag it indoors, leave the cabinet separated overnight, and then put it back together and power it up after it's had time to warm up to room temperature (and any rogue moisture/water/snow has disappeared). I figure the TV is rated for typical consumer electronics storage temperatures?
post #7609 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Very nice!

Now put 'em where they belong:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...010146&page=34
Welcome back.
post #7610 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

Now put 'em where they belong:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...010146&page=34
Welcome back.

done, i forgot about that thread as well so i have them on both.
post #7611 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by movax View Post
Bob, two questions:

1. How much is your phone coaching? I am going to clean optics on two sets when I go home over Christmas (a '94 46XBR35 and a 2000(?) WS-65511). The Sony has been sitting dead (bad convergence) for about 2 years now, so I'm not too concerned about trying to dive for a deep clean of their two-stage optics. The Mits I know seal their inner optics.

2. Temperature; the Mits will be travelling home on Sunday in cold weather, maybe slight flurries (hurray for tarps to seal it!). I figure I will just drag it indoors, leave the cabinet separated overnight, and then put it back together and power it up after it's had time to warm up to room temperature (and any rogue moisture/water/snow has disappeared). I figure the TV is rated for typical consumer electronics storage temperatures?
Please contact me directly, off board, for that info.

As long as you allow it the adequate number of hours to reach room temp before turning it on, you should have no problems. You're on the right track -


b
post #7612 of 12305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcrr21 View Post
I have a Mitsubishi WS-65857 No video image (blue screen), distorted captions (vol, input, etc) and no menu. Sound is OK, and Diagnostic code 1-2

www-youtube-com/watch?v=CRq18k5uhWc

I replace Convergence IC ( IC8C01 Sanyo STK392-570, IC8C01 Sanyo STK392-570)
I check the fuses ( F9A04,F9A05, etc), all OK
I check all the resistors and the 2 coils, all OK
but the problem persists...
I took out the Conv-Gene board and turned the TV on. Now I have video and menu, with the hourglass effect...
Any Ideas?
Thanks in advance
Possibly IC8C02? You only list 1 IC board locator number there, twice.

The blue and green appear to be properly superimposed on the horizontal with the red off to one side, but all 3 are off on the vertical. I see 4 of the 6 channels as being affected. Unless the red is off because you changed it in User, for testing, and didn't put it back in place.

In which case only 3 channels are affected, meaning just 1 IC could be the culprit.

Your link works only if you sub periods for dashes, BTW. You must not have copy/pasted it.

b
post #7613 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Please contact me directly, off board, for that info.

As long as you allow it the adequate number of hours to reach room temp before turning it on, you should have no problems. You're on the right track -


b

Will do. Currently scouring Craigslist for replacements, found 55" Mits for $100 and another 65" for $200. If the 55" cabinet separates, that would be ideal. Cleaning its optics and it should be good to go!
post #7614 of 12305
I believe in my CRT! I have this 7 year old Sony 57WS510 model. No HDMI, but haven't missed it.

I had some convergence issues, which first I fiddled with the service menu - didn't help much. I called the local repair shop guy. who had to take couple of modules out to his shop and fixed in 3-4 days and returned. Since I messed with the service menu, he couldn't get the convergence restored. RBG were off and he didn't spend enough time fixing them in the service menu.

I spent good amount of time reading forums like this and HTF and finally got it to a point where the convergence is not bad at all and I could definitely watch the TV.
I like the colors even better than before but, I could see the geometry off a bit here and there around the sides and corner. I can also see a little Red bleeding here and there. I need to spend more time to set it right.

I also tried to adjust through the Focus and Screen knobs. yeah, I touched the SCREEN a little bit (though many would suggest not to go near that). Now when I switch on the TV for a second it comes up with bright yellowish, orangish bright background and fades out. I think this is due to the Screen adjustment I did.

Any help to fix this is much appreciated.

Kumar.
post #7615 of 12305
Thread Starter 
There is a special reason to not touch the Sony Screen controls, over and above the standard warnings.

This is because there is a balancing act performed by a Sony CRT RPTV every time the set is turned on. If the 3 trimpots are not set close enough to each other, the set will simply not deliver a pic. It will stay video muted.

The only way to get the pic to the screen is to make sure the 3 Screen levels in there are relatively close to each other.

DK if this has anything to do with your issue, but it's good info anyway, for any Sony owner who is contemplating going in there and messing with the Screen controls. Sony glues them in place, and that should not be abrogated. If your set is delivering a pic at all, those Screen trimpots are still in their proper factory position.

They should not be touched.

This is over and above the fact that anytime you alter the Screen controls, you alter the black/gray/dark response of your grayscale, possibly trashing a perfectly good grayscale alignment on your set.

b
post #7616 of 12305
True... my bad!

I get the video in all inputs. in fact, due to other adjustments I did, the colors so good than ever before.
so, in the long run is it ok to have that brightish light come up for a fraction of second?
post #7617 of 12305
@Mr Bob:

My name is Isaac. I have a co-worker with a Hitachi 51F59A that is clearly not working properly. My boss, Bill, and I are trying to help her out. We're a company of A/V nerds. So we thought we'd be in the greatest position to help her. Our knee-jerk reaction was to have her dump this and get a new one, but her financial situation won't allow her that luxury. So she's going to have this display, or none at all.

(I had a much wordier piece written. But when I hit "Quick Reply", apparently my session expired and I lost the comment. So here's the Reader's Digest condensed version.)

There's no red in the picture and it's exceedingly dark – whether you connect the HD Cable box or an upscaling DVD player via HDMI or Component. We fudged hue and saturation to give it some semblance of normalcy, but the best color we can get has a lot of blue and yellow in it. "Clifford the Big Red Dog" was on PBS HD. Clifford's supposed to be red. He was black. We put in "Star Wars: Epsiode III" on DVD. Went right to the Mustafar battle scenes. Lots of lava, no red, very dark.

We tried applying a service menu-based HDMI fix found in another thread. But the values in the E2PROM list were already applied. Apparently, Hitachi started doing this at the factory after a certain date.

Even before reading this thread, we thought she should look into getting this repaired, based on the clarity of the display (especially in HD). Now we're even more convinced as this display seems to be a Cadillac among the CRT RPTV's, according to other user threads.

So based on what we've told you, do you have any insights on how to approach fixing this? Lots of blue and yellow, no red. Well there may be some pastel pink occasionally, but no deep red shows up. In place of red, it's black. Clarity is good, and in lighter scenes where red isn't dominant, brightness is good.

I'm having her take photos of it to post here, if that will help. I hope to get those up tomorrow or early next week.

Thanks for your help and dedication to this topic. I've scanned Craigslist, and might buy a 56" Sony that's in our area. Model number wasn't listed, otherwise I'd ask for your recommendation on that.

-Isaac T.-
post #7618 of 12305
Hi Bob and Gang,

Well my 10 year old Pio Elite Pro 710HD appears to have a SERIOUS problem. The power went out on our house yesterday and when power returned the Blue Tube appears to have gone belly up! Below are some screen shots. Our local tech (who has repaired the set twice over the last 10 years under an extended warranty) will charge $175 just to have a look. Add to that a likely $1K+ Repair bill and I'm now thinking replacement.

Can any of you give me a likely scenario from these pics?

Couple of things: The convergence controls allow me to move the red and green tubes, but no amount of coaxing will move the blue...

Thoughts?



post #7619 of 12305
Have a quick question....

I bought a HDMI to DVI adapter to hook up my ps3 to my mitsubishi ws-55813 and i get the message on the screen that says to check conection and no signal. I did a manual reset for the ps3 so it would reset the video output and still nothing. I hooked it back up to my other set and it asked me to set the resolution. Now i read that if the set is not"HDC" compliant than the ps3 will not work HDMI over DVI. Sould i just get HDMI to component adapter?

Thank you
post #7620 of 12305
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradesp View Post

Hi Bob and Gang,

Well my 10 year old Pio Elite Pro 710HD appears to have a SERIOUS problem. The power went out on our house yesterday and when power returned the Blue Tube appears to have gone belly up! Below are some screen shots. Our local tech (who has repaired the set twice over the last 10 years under an extended warranty) will charge $175 just to have a look. Add to that a likely $1K+ Repair bill and I'm now thinking replacement.

Can any of you give me a likely scenario from these pics?

Couple of things: The convergence controls allow me to move the red and green tubes, but no amount of coaxing will move the blue...

Thoughts?




looks to me like convergence IC is bad and you won't be able to move it. i am no expert and bob or someone may end up correcting me ,but i have seen it before and that is what it looks like to me. good luck
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